La Rochelle

La Rochelle is a city in Charente-Maritime on the Atlantic coast of France. It has a charming old town and harbour, and is often called "la ville blanche" (the white city) for its limestone buildings: they're handsome in any weather, but brilliant when the sun shines down from a big blue Atlantic sky. In 2020 La Rochelle had a population of 77,210.

Île de Ré is a resort island 30 km long, linked to La Rochelle by a toll bridge, and also described on this page. Other islands in the bay, reached by boat trips, are Île d'Aix, Île d'Oleron (usually accessed via Rochefort), and the one you've seen on TV, Fort Boyard.

Understand
The Romans built villas, harvested salt from the lagoons, and introduced wine production, but La Rochelle - "the little rock" - only becomes identifiable from the 10th century. It was boosted as a port, like Bordeaux to the south, by the dynastic marriage in 1152 of Eleanor of Aquitane with the future Henry II of England. So it didn't just trade with England, it was an English possession, until the French state expanded in the 14th century. From the 17th century La Rochelle was the base for Atlantic shipping, with fishing off the banks of Newfoundland, Francophone colonies in the Americas, and troop movements as wars between England and France were fought abroad. It became France's leading port but modern shipping outgrew the little harbour, small enough to pull a chain across against marauders. Deep-water facilities moved west to La Pallice, while other development was at Les Minimes, a tract of reclaimed land just south. The historic port and town centre were therefore preserved, and today are the highlight of La Rochelle.

The is at 2 Quai Georges Simenon 500 m northwest of the railway station, open W-F 10:00-13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sa-Tu 09:30-18:30.

By plane
Bus 7 runs downtown (Place de Verdun) M-Sa every 30 min, taking 15 min, fare €1.30. In July and August a bus runs from the airport directly to Île de Ré, at other times you'll have to backtrack via downtown. Taxis wait outside the terminal building, with the fare to town about €20.

By train
TGVs run from Paris Montparnasse every couple of hours, taking 3 hours via Poitiers and Niort. Five or six trains a day run from Bordeaux (2 hr 30 min via Saintes and Rochefort), and from Nantes (3 hr).

the railway station is 500 m south of old town centre, near the aquarium and Maritime Museum. It has a grand facade but is poky inside. Cars can be rented from agencies opposite the station.

By bus
Flixbus runs once a day from Paris Bercy Seine, 7 hr. They also run from Nantes (2 hr) and Toulouse (6 hr). Daily buses run from Bilbao and Madrid, and one comes all the way from Algeciras (for ferries from Morocco), taking 24 hours via Malaga, Granada, Jaen, Madrid, Burgos, Vitoria-Gasteiz, San Sebastian, Irun, Bayonne and Bordeaux.

The bus to Île de Ré is run in conjunction with SNCF, so it's through-ticketed, displayed on rail departure boards, and timed to connect with the Paris trains.

Jean Moulin bus station is south flank of the railway station on Rue des Jars, reached by footbridge. It's just an open-air parking lot with flimsy bus shelters, no facilities or departure displays or anything.

Some long-distance and most local services stop at Place de Verdun, by the cathedral in the old town.

By road
From Paris take the A10 onto N11 for La Rochelle. From Bordeaux take A10 then exit onto A837 then D137.

Île de Ré toll bridge in 2023 charges €16 return per car in high season (mid-June to mid-Sept) and €8 the rest of the year. The bridge is free for pedestrians, cyclists and motorbikes under 50 cc.

By boat
Cruise liners occasionally call at La Rochelle, docking at the far end of Viaduc Président Christian Morch, 10 km west of town near the bridge to Île de Ré. Typically these are on week-long cruises of the Bay of Biscay and Channel Islands, with passengers coming ashore for a day-trip to the Dordogne and quick look at the old town. They're not available to book as point-to-point ferries.

Get around
Walking is your best choice around the old town and harbour.

Yélo is the public transport combine - it's a pun on "yellow" and "vélo". A single bus ticket can be bought by bank card on the bus: in 2024 it costs €1.50 and is valid for one transfer within one hour. A 10-unit ticket costs €12, a 24-hour pass is €5, a 7-day pass is €22. Buy these from Yélo kiosks, for instance in Place de Verdun, which just about every bus line passes through. One exception is the Friday evening summer service to Île de Ré, which goes direct from the railway station.

The ferry from Vieux Port to Port des Minimes runs hourly, fare €3.

The bike rental service is also run by Yélo: you first need to register at their kiosk in Place de Verdun, with ID and credit card for a €150 deposit. Short-term rental is €1 for the first 30 min then €1.50 per 30 min - these rentals may not be taken to Île de Ré. Longer hires are also easily arranged. There are 112 pick-up and return stations across the city.

See



 * Vieux Port is the oldest and most picturesque part of La Rochelle, dominated by its defensive towers. The quayside extends 200 m upstream from the port, along Canal Maubec. Most buildings are centuries old and very well maintained. The narrow streets and pale stone buildings make the city feel more Midi than Atlantic.
 * is the Gothic great gate and clocktower connecting the quays to the network of old streets behind, which enclose the market hall, the Protestant church, and the New World Museum. Eventually Vieux Port opens onto Place de Verdun, with the Cathedral of St-Louis.
 * : If a party of enormous chess pieces came down to the seaside and got drunk, they would resemble these three 14th- / 15th-century towers. Tour de la Chaîne and Tour St Nicholas lean over the narrow harbour entrance: a stout chain was raised between them to keep out trouble (often English). A rampart stretches west to Tour de la Lanterne, the former lighthouse. You can visit the towers daily 10:00 to 13:00 and 14:15 to 17:30 (18:30 during daylight saving). Adult entry costs €9.50 per tower, or €13 for all three, child free.
 * Église Protestante is at 2 Rue Saint-Michel, a block back from the quay. It has a small exhibition on the local Huguenot community and holds services on Sunday at 10:30.
 * Hôtel de Ville is the ornate 14th century town hall, still in use. It suffered a fire in 2013 but has been restored. They no longer offer tours of the interior but you can look in at the impressive courtyard free.
 * Musée des Beaux-Arts just north of Musée du Nouveau Monde remains closed in 2023.
 * on Place de Verdun was built from 1742 and consecrated in 1748, but only completed in the 19th century when an earlier church and other buildings were cleared from the site. It's neo-classical, mostly plain but with paintings in the cupola. It also incorporates the 12th century bell tower of its predecessor.
 * Musée des Beaux-Arts just north of Musée du Nouveau Monde remains closed in 2023.
 * on Place de Verdun was built from 1742 and consecrated in 1748, but only completed in the 19th century when an earlier church and other buildings were cleared from the site. It's neo-classical, mostly plain but with paintings in the cupola. It also incorporates the 12th century bell tower of its predecessor.

Further out

 * is a gaunt unused dock to the west, with its submarine pens built in 1941. The modern industrial dock is further out.
 * Île de Ré resort island is accessed along Route D735 via a 2-km bridge, see above for tolls.
 * is the main settlement on the island. Its charming port was fortified from the 1720s by Vauban, and is a . Musée Ernest Cognacq depicts the islands's history.

Do

 * La Grande Roue is a 42-m ferris wheel next to the tourist office, running daily to 19:00, to 23:00 in July and August. (adult or child) gets you three spins, taking six minutes.
 * Grand Théâtre de la Coursive is at 4 Rue St Jean du Pérot a block back from the quay.
 * Cinema CGR have cinemas at 8 Cour des Dames in old town and Ave Henri Becquerel in Les Minimes. Their Olympia branch on Rue Chaudrier has closed.
 * Football - soccer - is only played at amateur level, by ES La Rochelle down in the minor leagues.
 * Port des Minimes is one of the biggest pleasure boat marinas in Europe: mostly yachts not motorboats.
 * Boat trips head out to Fort Boyard and Île-d'Aix, with over a dozen operators.
 * Plage des Minimes is the closest beach to town, a sandy expanse just south of the marina. There's better on Île de Ré.
 * Golf: Golf La Rochelle is 10 km north of town at Marsilly.
 * Film Festival is probably next held 28 June - 4 July 2024, tbc.
 * Francofollies is about French pop and rock. It's next held on 12-16 July 2023, on the parking lot south of the Towers.
 * TV Drama Festival has free screenings of shows not yet broadcast. The next is probably 12-17 Sept 2023, tbc.
 * La Rochelle Jazz Festival is next held 12-15 Oct 2023.
 * Marathon de La Rochelle is next run on Su 26 Nov 2023.
 * Marathon de La Rochelle is next run on Su 26 Nov 2023.

Buy

 * Vieux Marché is the main market, north side of old town on Rue Thiers. There's a large covered hall and open-air stalls, daily 06:00-13:30.
 * Monoprix is the main store in town centre, at 29 Rue Admyrauld, open daily 08:30-20:00.
 * Convenience stores are dotted around, such as Epicerie de la Gare in front of the station (daily 09:00-02:00).
 * Big supermarkets are further out, for instance Intermarché Super and Lidl on the retail park 3 km east.

Eat

 * Local specialties: seafood of course. Try the mussels "Charantais" in a creamy white wine and onion sauce. Also try a waffle with "caramel au beurre sale" (salty butter caramel), a crepe/galette de sarasin, broye du poitou (a butter cookie) and some "gache" (a type of brioche). For dessert, tourteau fromager is a baked cheese cake with a burned layer on top; canneles are small cylindrical pastries.

Mid-range

 * Café de la Paix has indifferent food and surly service, but you come for the decor and because Simenon wrote Maigret novels here. It's at 54 Rue Chaudrier 100 m north of the cathedral, open M-Sa 07:00-22:00.
 * Comptoir des Voyages is an excellent little Italian at 22 Rue St Jean du Pérot, 50 m back from Tour de la Chaîne, open daily 10:00-13:00, 14:15-17:30.
 * Île de Ré: Bistrot du Marin is on Quai Nicolas Baudin on Saint-Martin harbour island, open F-Tu. Lots of seafood restaurants line the other quays.
 * La Martiniere is an ice-cream cafe on Quai Poitheviniere, open daily.
 * Île de Ré: Bistrot du Marin is on Quai Nicolas Baudin on Saint-Martin harbour island, open F-Tu. Lots of seafood restaurants line the other quays.
 * La Martiniere is an ice-cream cafe on Quai Poitheviniere, open daily.
 * Île de Ré: Bistrot du Marin is on Quai Nicolas Baudin on Saint-Martin harbour island, open F-Tu. Lots of seafood restaurants line the other quays.
 * La Martiniere is an ice-cream cafe on Quai Poitheviniere, open daily.

Splurge

 * La Yole de Chris, also within Oxford Club, is a more affordable branch of Christopher Coutanceau.
 * La Yole de Chris, also within Oxford Club, is a more affordable branch of Christopher Coutanceau.
 * La Yole de Chris, also within Oxford Club, is a more affordable branch of Christopher Coutanceau.
 * La Yole de Chris, also within Oxford Club, is a more affordable branch of Christopher Coutanceau.

Drink

 * La Guignette is along the street from General Humbert at 8 Rue Saint-Nicholas. It's a grungy wine bar in a former garage open M-Sa 11:00-01:00, 17:00-21:00, where you sit at barrel tables. The specialty is wine with fruit juice or syrup, which can get you wasted before you realise it.
 * La Calhute is on Rue de la Fourche, off Rue Saint-Nicholas, and it too serves wine with fruit mixtures. It's open M Tu 14:00-02:00, W-Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 14:00-23:00.
 * La Guignette is along the street from General Humbert at 8 Rue Saint-Nicholas. It's a grungy wine bar in a former garage open M-Sa 11:00-01:00, 17:00-21:00, where you sit at barrel tables. The specialty is wine with fruit juice or syrup, which can get you wasted before you realise it.
 * La Calhute is on Rue de la Fourche, off Rue Saint-Nicholas, and it too serves wine with fruit mixtures. It's open M Tu 14:00-02:00, W-Sa 12:00-02:00, Su 14:00-23:00.

Sleep

 * Hôtel François 1er is a charming but tiny place at 15 Rue Bazoges, 100 m east of the cathedral.
 * Hôtel Henri IV is a simple place at 31 Rue des Gentilshommes, a block back from Quai Duperré.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Hôtel François 1er is a charming but tiny place at 15 Rue Bazoges, 100 m east of the cathedral.
 * Hôtel Henri IV is a simple place at 31 Rue des Gentilshommes, a block back from Quai Duperré.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.
 * Île de Ré also has hotels, such as Hôtel La Jetée by Saint-Martin harbour. The campsite is south end of town at Rue de Rempart - camping on the island is only permitted at designated sites.

Connect
As of June 2023 La Rochelle, its approach roads and Île de Ré have 5G from all French carriers.

Go next

 * Cognac: Best use public transport to reach it, or sort out in advance who'll be driving back.
 * Nantes is the port that outgrew La Rochelle, and has an interesting old town centre.
 * Royan is a seaside resort.
 * Bordeaux is best known for its wine; it's equally worth visiting for its grand neoclassical centre.