Kyrenia

Kyrenia (Greek: Κερύνεια Keryneia, Turkish: Girne) is the chief port and tourist resort of Northern Cyprus. Its old centre is dominated by the castle over the harbour, built by the Venetians in 1540. The city in 2019 had a population of 45,881, with as many again in the resort strips that extend for 20 km on either side.

Understand
This city was founded by Hellenistic people over 3000 years ago. They valued Cyprus for its copper and other metals, and mostly got around by sea, but the Romans from the first century AD carved a road right around the island and another inland through the mountains. As the chief port on this coast Kyrenia controlled trade and needed to be defended - the harbour castle you see today was built in 1540 and has been maintained ever since. Kyrenia had a Greek majority population until 1974, when Turkey invaded and most Greeks fled. After the ceasefire there was a population exchange, with Greeks deported and Girne, as it now became, settled by Turks from villages in the south.

The 1990s saw a thawing of the "Cold War" or frozen conflict between Greece, Cyprus and Turkey, and Girne became a popular resort for westerners. It's always called Kyrenia in tourist literature so that's the name used here.

By air
is the airport for Northern Cyprus so most visitors arrive this way. Flights by Turkish Airlines and Pegasus connect across Europe but all make a stop in Turkey, see Northern Cyprus. Flights are hourly from Istanbul (IST and SAW) and frequent from Ankara, Izmir, Adana and Antalya.

Ercan is 42 km south and public transport is limited, you'd probably have to take the bus into Nicosia then out again. Hire a car unless your tour package includes a transfer.

You can also fly into Larnaca in the south. Crossing the border is straightforward but your rental car will need extra insurance.

By boat
Fast-cat foot-passenger ferries (Deniz Otobüsü) sail May-Oct from the Turkish mainland:


 * from Mersin Su Tu Th at 21:00, from Kyrenia M W F at 23:00, taking 80 min and operated by Akgunlerdenizcilik
 * from Taşucu at 14:00 and from Kyrenia at 10:00, Friday only, taking 2 hr and operated by Akgunlerdenizcilik
 * from Alanya is not sailing in 2023.
 * from Hatay, operated by HADO, is not sailing in 2023.

The only year-round ferry, and the only one to take vehicles (Feribot), is from Taşucu and takes 6 hours. It's operated by Akgunlerdenizcilik and in summer sails four times a week, usually at 23:30: from Taşucu on Su M Tu Th and from Kyrenia M Tu W F. Winter sailings are only once or twice a week.

The is 1 km east of the historic harbour and castle.

See Famagusta for another year-round car ferry from Mersin. See Limassol for sailings to the south, then you could come north overland.

By bus
Buses here are like Turkish dolmuşes, they're minibuses that don't have a fixed timetable but set off when full, see Northern Cyprus.

Buses from Nicosia run every 15 min from Kyrenia Gate on Cemal Gürsel Cd, north edge of the city, and take 30 min.

Buses from Famagusta run hourly and take 90 min. From Güzelyurt they're every couple of hours and take an hour.

is a fancy name for the drop-off / pick-up point on Mustafa Çağatay Cd, 200 m south of the castle. Don't go looking for the otogar shown on some maps 1 km south, it's just a bus parking lot.

Get around
The town is walkable, but you need a car to explore - there are a dozen rental companies in town if you didn't pick one up at the airport.

Minibuses ply along the coast resort strip but don't reach outlying sights such as St Hilarion Castle.

There's no longer a bicycle hire shop here.

See

 * Ağa Cafer Pasha Mosque west side of the castle was built in 1590. The interior is fairly plain.
 * St Andrews Church at the southwest corner of the castle is Anglican. Baldoken graveyard next to it has a few old Ottoman tombs.
 * (Ιερός Ναός Αρχαγγέλου Μιχαήλ) is Greek Orthodox. The church and its museum of frescos have been closed since 2018 for re-building.
 * is a good spot for views of the castle. Some sections are in poor repair and work is under way in 2023.
 * Museum of Decorative Arts on Bozoklar Sk by the harbour remains closed in 2023. The Museum of Fine Arts has closed permanently.
 * Museum of Decorative Arts on Bozoklar Sk by the harbour remains closed in 2023. The Museum of Fine Arts has closed permanently.
 * Bitter Lemons 200 m south of the abbey is the cottage where the writer Lawrence Durrell (1912-1990) lived in the 1950s. Shortly after he left he published Justine, the first part of his best known work Alexandria Quartet. The naturalist Gerald Durrell was his younger brother. In 2023 the cottage is derelict and for sale.
 * is a 40 m-tall metal structure visible from the Nicosia highway. The kneeling figure is meant to symbolise the common heritage of the warring factions of Cyprus, descendants all of humble farmers of the same soil, and thus promote reconciliation. Well, worth a go maybe.
 * is a similar Byzantine fortress, reached from its south side by a rugged trail.
 * is a similar Byzantine fortress, reached from its south side by a rugged trail.

Do

 * City Amphitheatre is a modern venue off Mersin Cd near the ferry port.
 * Hiking: there are several trails in the mountain ridge separating Kyrenia from Nicosia.
 * Scuba diving centres near town include North Cyprus British Scuba, Amphora Diving, Nautilus, Scuba Cyprus and Cyprus Underwater Explorers. They all offer training, equipment hire and trips for certified divers.
 * Turtle watching: Loggerhead and Green turtles nest on Alagadi beach 30 km east of town. Females lay eggs in June and July, and hatchlings emerge in Aug and Sept. The beach is closed to the public on summer nights to protect the turtles, but you can join the volunteer rangers on guided walks.
 * Boat trips potter along the coast, often in gulets and serving a meze lunch. Operators based at the harbour include Aphrodite, Derya Deniz, Happy Sea Yacht Tours and Vela Yachting.
 * Paragliding: Highline have tandem paragliding flights, no experience needed.
 * Golf: the nearest course is Korineum Resort, see Sleep.
 * Northern Cyprus Music Festival is held at Bellapais Monastery mid-Sept to early Nov.

Buy

 * The official currency is the Turkish lira (TL), but most businesses accept euro, British pounds, US dollars and bank cards.
 * Supermarkets: a dozen medium-sized places, typically open daily 07:00-23:00, no dominating big store.

Eat

 * Harbour waterfront has 6 Brothers, Set Fish Restaurant, Kyrenia Four Season and Corner Balık.
 * Halil İbrahim Sofrası on Ziya Rızkı Cd scores well for its Turkish food. It's open daily 10:00-02:00.
 * Mantı Sofrası on Göksu Sk a block back from the harbour also scores well. It's open daily 11:00-23:00.
 * Niazis serves great fish and meze. It's on 20 Temmuz Kordonboyu Cd next to Rocks Hotel and open daily 12:00-00:00.
 * Niazis serves great fish and meze. It's on 20 Temmuz Kordonboyu Cd next to Rocks Hotel and open daily 12:00-00:00.

Drink

 * Cafes and restaurants serve alcohol. Most free-standing bars folded during covid.
 * Sitare Bar a block back from the harbour is open daily 13:00-02:00.
 * Gillham Vineyard (see Sleep) offers tours and tastings.
 * No brewery or distillery in Northern Cyprus so you'll be drinking imported Efes again.

In town

 * Lord's Palace is a mid-price hotel at Dr Fazıl Küçük Cd 38 by the ferry terminal. Most customers are here for the restaurant and rooftop bar.
 * Lord's Palace is a mid-price hotel at Dr Fazıl Küçük Cd 38 by the ferry terminal. Most customers are here for the restaurant and rooftop bar.
 * Lord's Palace is a mid-price hotel at Dr Fazıl Küçük Cd 38 by the ferry terminal. Most customers are here for the restaurant and rooftop bar.

Connect
As of Sept 2023, Kyrenia, the beach strip and approach roads have 4G from KKTC Turkcell and KKTC Telsim. 5G has not reached Northern Cyprus.

Go next

 * Famagusta has an old centre with Venetian fortifications, amidst much war damage ancient and modern.
 * Nicosia is a fascinating Ottoman city. The ceasefire line runs through it, so its southern part is in Greek-speaking Cyprus.
 * You need your own vehicle to tour the Karpaz peninsula to the east, to be assailed by wild donkeys.