Kushiro

Kushiro (釧路市) is the fourth largest city in Hokkaido and the largest city in Eastern Hokkaido. Despite its population and size, it is still quite rural, with a sparse public transportation system. It is home to Japan's largest marshland and is a year-round home to endangered Japanese cranes, making it a popular stop for birdwatchers.

Understand
Like most parts of Japan, the Kushiro area is volcanically active and it is especially prone to small tremors from off-shore earthquakes.

In 2005 the town of Akan and the town of Onbetsu was merged into Kushiro. Old Onbetsu town area has become the enclave.

Kushiro is the birthplace of Akira Ifukube, the classical and film composer best known for his work in the Godzilla film series.

Tourist Information Site
Super Fantastic Kushiro/Lake Akan is the city's official multilingual guide site.

By plane
Kushiro is accessible by air from Tokyo (both airports), Osaka (both airports) and Sapporo (both airports). Rental cars are available across the street from the airport. If traveling without a local contact, a rental car is strongly recommended because public transportation within the city and greater Kushiro area is few and far between. Akan Bus also operates airport shuttles (Japanese-only) that correspond with every inbound and outbound flight between the airport and Kushiro Station. One-way adult ticket costs ¥910.

By train
Sapporo Station to Kushiro Station is a 4-hour train ride. It is the last stop on the Super Ozora Limited Express train line. There are 6 trains daily from Sapporo.

By bus
Kushiro Bus operates daily buses (one midday bus and one overnight bus) to and from Sapporo (schedule and pricing on their Japanese-only website).

Get around
Kushiro Bus (Japanese-only) operates local buses around the city but are difficult to navigate with Japanese-only route maps and schedules.

Akan Bus (Japanese-only) operates buses further out of the city, to Tsurui, Shibecha, Akan, and Mashu.

Local taxis are rather cheap and are the easiest form of travel within the city proper. Rental cars are available at the airport.

See
Kushiro City Zoo

Kushiro City Zoo is the second largest zoo in Japan, built in 1975. The zoo is located near Kushiro Shitsugen (wetland). It is about 20 km from the city by car and about a 50-minute bus ride. It is also located near a very nice onsen.

Kushiro Wetland (Shitsugen)

Kushiro Marsh is the largest wetland in Japan and accounts for 60% of Japan's wetland. It was designated under the Ramsar Convention in 1980 and became Japan's 28th National Park in 1987.

Kushiro City Marsh Observatory

Situated in the Kushiro Shitsugen, visitors should climb the stairs to the top of the Kushiro City Marsh Observatory and take in the views of the luscious forests that surround the area. There are also forested walking trails and a replicated Ainu settlement. Bring your bug spray, during the summer there are a lot of mosquitoes, but the wooden boardwalk forests and views of the expansive wetlands make a visit essential. It is a 35-minute bus ride from Kushiro JR Station or about a 20-minute car ride.

Kushiro Art Museum

This art museum is located down a short walking path from the Fisherman’s Wharf. Though it is small is size, the gallery hosts many lovely exhibits and its facilities are quite nice.

Buy
As with all Japanese cities, the most famous souvenirs of the area are all gathered in the airport and train station. The MOO is also a good place to buy souvenirs and food.

Though logging is no longer as big of an industry as before, wooden carvings remain a popular souvenir. Carvings in Ainu designs are also common.

Akan's cheeky Marimokkori mascot also makes funny souvenirs. The character is based on Lake Akan's famous marimo algae, and features a prominent crotch lump ("mokkori" is Japanese slang for such a protuberance in the crotch area). You can find on all manner of merchandise.

Edible products include Kujirasuku, a dark chocolate-soaked biscotti-like biscuit that does not contain any whale (contrary to its name and logo - the name means kujira-shaped rusks), and many types of commemorative cookies and sweets. Of course, there is also all manner of seafood and you can buy your own steamed king crab in a box if you'd like.

Eat
As a port city, Kushiro's seafood is top notch.

On the wharf by the MOO, you can grill your own seafood outside over charcoal grills (robatayaki) from early spring until late fall, when it closes for the winter season.

For conveyor belt sushi (kaitenzushi), there are two Hokkaido local chains Matsuriya (まつりや) and Nagoyakatei (なごやか亭). Matsuriya's portions are generally larger. Menus at both places are Japanese-only, but photo-filled. You can also of course grab plates off of the belt. Choices include the traditional salmon and tuna nigiris, but you will also find California rolls, whale meat (kujira) and tiramisu.

Kushiro is famous for whale meat (kujira), which you can eat raw or cooked in many restaurants around the city. However, it is not for the faint of heart, as it is very pungent, with an oily texture and a very fatty taste. A sushi restaurant is probably the best place to sample a small bit of whale meat (you can easily spot it on a conveyor belt, as it is the reddest meat you will see), as it does not taste much different cooked.

Further east from Kushiro, the city of Akkeshi is famous for oysters. It holds two oyster festivals a year, one in the spring and one in the fall. Akkeshi oysters are quite plentiful in Kushiro restaurants as well.

Besides seafood, you can also have Hokkaido-style barbecue Genghis Khan (with Genghis pronounced "jengis"), and Korean-style barbecue (which is not very Korean). There is also the uniquely Hokkaido soup curry.

Non-Japanese food in Kushiro include the ubiquitous McDonald's and KFC, "American-style" hamburger steak restaurants, Italian restaurants, a few Southeast Asian restaurants, and a Nepalese curry restaurant.

Vegetarians who do not eat seafood will have a hard time finding food they can eat.

Drink
Suehiro-cho in the downtown area is the nightlife center of Kushiro, with many Japanese-style bars (izakaya), restaurants, karaoke boxes and snack bars (bars where female hostesses entertain guests) condensed in a few blocks. Most bars have a cover charge of ¥500 and one alcoholic drink generally costs the same.

A notable local drink is Tantakatan (鍛高譚), a shochu made with shiso leaves grown in the Shiranuka area (40 minutes west of Kushiro).

Sleep
Couch surfing hosts are also available in the city.