Koh Rong

Koh Rong is an Island off the coast of Sihanoukville.

Understand
Until few years ago, Koh Rong used to be an undiscovered Island with only a few local families living from what the sea provided. There are about four small villages. Tourism slowly started around 2008, but the island remains deserted for the largest part. In 2012 new bungalow resorts and guesthouses pop up at Koh Tuich which is the main touristy destination.

The island has been sold to an investor planning to create an ecological resort, but the huge development probably won't start until 2020.

As the local villages and tourism sites mainly use the wood provided on the island, the local jungle is subject to severe deforestation due to the illegal logging, which will hopefully be stopped by the investors that plan to preserve about half of the jungle as a nature reserve.

The development of the small villages continued even heavier in 2013 with more and more guesthouses, restaurants and bungalow resorts popping up. Unfortunately almost all places seem solely interested in short-term profits: garbage and unfiltered wastewater are routed to the sea and one can watch the island getting dirtier every month.

If you are planning on visiting during Chinese New Year, you may want to book accommodations ahead of time as it is a popular vacation destination for Chinese families and guesthouses will fill up.

Get in
Koh Rong can be reached by a ferry ride from Sihanoukville. The ferries itself are pretty basic. There are wooden benches on either side of the ferry and plastic covers in case it rains.

Typically the roof is accessible, allowing you to stretch out and catch a quick snooze. Make sure you carry a hat and sunglasses for the ride, and use sunscreen if required.

As of 2012 there are two daily ferries leaving Sihanoukville at about 08:00 and 13:30 from the port. Both head to Koh Tuich. The return ferries leave at 10:00 and 16:00 from the island. The boats are quite slow, so the trip takes about 2 hours.

Not all ferries sell water or snacks, so it may be a good idea to carry some with you, especially if you are travelling with children. There is a small toilet on board the ferry which seems to be clean and in decent working condition.

To board and disembark from the ferry you will need to walk on an average sized plank of wood connecting the pier to the ferry. The process is not very efficient and can be a little scary the first time you try it, so bear this in mind if you have any foot injuries, have special needs, etc.

Ferries used to run to two opposite sides of the island.
 * The Dive Shop and Monkey Island ferries pick you up at Monkey Republic near the Golden Lion roundabout at 12:30 (or if you arrange in advance at 13:00 at the bus station). The ferry leaves 13:30 and arrives at Koh Tuich at 15:30.
 * The other ferry running to Sok-San bungalows may not be in operation as of 2012. However, from Koh Tuich you can take a fishing boat for US$25. Better is probably to pre-arrange your arrival when booking the accommodation.

Make sure that the ferry you are booked to take will drop you off at your destination. There have been instances of resort owners refusing to let guests take boats to the other side of the island (Sok-San to Monkey Island etc.), and insisting that you stay on their beach.

Prices seem to vary, depending on season and the place you book at. Expect to pay between US$10 to US$20 for the roundtrip including pickup in the main town area in Sihanoukville, so you should not have to pay extra for it.

There are also ships from Sihanoukville to Pagoda Beach. They can be booked via your hotel.



By motorcycle
Nowadays, there are some concrete roads on the island and it is possible to travel around the island on a motorcycle that can be rented from some hotels. The roads are marked both on Google Maps and OpenStreetMap.

By foot
There are some trails marked on OpenStreetMap and other maps, however, the maps should be improved, so you'll either need a guide or good instinct and a compass.

However, the resort village areas are easily navigated, there is typically only one path and the only obstacles may be occasional streams.

There are four villages:
 * Koh Tuich (or sometimes just Koh Toch or Koh Tuit) named after the small southeastern island, has seen most tourist development.
 * Long-beach-kog-rong-cambodia.jpgSok-San (also known as Bai Tau) is a village at the west of the island at the northern end of the 7-km Long Set beach. Behind the village is a small lagoune, and about 5 minutes walk into the jungle is a big waterfall (only in wet-season).
 * Dam Dkeuw (also known as Dam Skal) is a village at the eastern cost, somehow reminding of venice.
 * Prek Sway is the last village at the east cost.

By boat
The other option is to hire a local fishing boat to take you around the island.

The trip from Koh Tuich to Bai Tau will be US$25 per boat.

See
With 23 white sand beaches to choose from Koh Rong has plenty to see and do. For the adventurous there's plenty of trekking to be done through the relatively untouched jungle. Diving and snorkelling is excellent both off the beach and at sites nearby.

But above all the best attraction is the phosphorescent water which sparkles when disturbed like twinkling stars.

Best seen in around 4 feet of water and on a dark part of the beach. Because Koh Rong has minimal development and light pollution the conditions are perfect for the phosphorescent plankton and it can be seen every single night.

Do

 * Some of the trails are marked on OpenStreetMap. Mark others if you find other trails on the island.

Buy
As of 2020, there is no ATM on the island. Several businesses in Koh Tuich can withdraw money for you but they will gouge you for it (~10%) because they know you have no other choice. Plan accordingly.

Eat
There are many restaurants available. In Koh Tuich, the cheapest ones are the Khmer restaurants in the village (mains US$2–3) that offer surprisingly good food. Each bungalow resort also has its own restaurant. While more expensive, these offer a nicer atmosphere. Various Restaurants offer the standard beach BBQ fare for US$4–6 at night.

Drink
Most restaurants also serve alcohol and cocktails. A can of Klang is typically about US$1.

Monkey's also has buckets and is often putting on a fire-show at night, so this is likely the place party activity will start. Most restaurants and bars will close by midnight. One or two bars will remain open and with electricity on until late depending on the crowd.

Sleep
As electricity is mainly provided by generators, power is typically only available in the evening from around 18–22. Bathrooms are usually very basic, with water being provided by streams running down from the mountains, so the water may sometimes have a brown tone.



Koh Tuich
There are some budget accommodations, including dorms and guesthouses in the village, so unless everything is booked, you can find a place to sleep from about US$5.

Due to construction in the village area, most travelers head for one of the calmer bungalow resorts.

From the village, head north to find Monkey, Paradise and furthest away Treehouse bungalows.



Sok San
In Sok San, there are two bungalow resorts, one with 10, the other with 15 bungalows. Both have restaurants.

Long Set Beach
Long Set Beach is located to the North of Koh Tuich on the sunset side of the island. It can be reached via a 45-minute jungle trek or private boats hired either in Sihanoukville or at the dock in Koh Tuich. A private boat from Koh Tuich costs US$5–10. It is a secluded 7-km strand of white sand beach, starting at Broken Heart Guesthouse and ending in Sok San, with crystal clear water and excellent opportunities to view the phosphorescence. The sunsets are beautiful and, at the start of the rainy season, the lightning storms are phenomenal. Closed during the rainy season.



Pagoda Beach
There are 5 more expensive hotels on Pagoda beach. There is no village here.

Connect
In Koh Tuich, Wi-Fi is available at several restaurants.

Wi-Fi is available in most hotels. 4G and GSM work in some parts of the island, but not everywhere; for example, there is no reception on Pagoda Beach.

Go next

 * Sihanoukville
 * Koh Rung Sanloem