Ko Chang

Ko Chang (เกาะช้าง) is an island in Trat Province, Eastern Thailand. It is the third biggest island in Thailand (after Phuket and Ko Samui)

Understand


Ko Chang is the biggest island in eastern Thailand. With about 5,000 permanent residents the island is not heavily populated, but there is a lot of tourism (and development).

The island is approximately 30 km long by 14 km wide, 213 km2. It is part of Mu Ko Chang National Park, which covers an area of 650 km2, of which 70 percent is offshore.

It is a mountainous island, with Khao Salak Phet being the highest peak at 744 metres. The island is known for its waterfalls, coral reefs, and rainforest.

Ko Chang is one of Thailand's most beautiful islands with long white sandy beaches, most half-deserted. The island is also home to a wide range of wildlife, including a good selection of birds, snakes, deer, and a number of non-native elephants. The island and its vicinity are great places for snorkelling, diving, and jungle hiking. The "discovery" of the island as a tourist destination around the year 2000 brought on development.

History
Prior to World War II, Ko Chang was a little-known backwater. During this period, the few families there made a living growing coconuts and fruit on the mainland. In January 1941, during the Japanese occupation, the Thai Navy fought the French in a battle in the waters to the southeast of Ko Chang.

Ko Chang remained quiet until the first backpacker foreigners started arriving on the back of local fishing boats in the mid-1970s. In 1982, Ko Chang along with surrounding area became part of the protected Mu Ko Chang National Marine Park. Ko Chang is a major tourist destination for both foreign and local tourists.

This sudden tourism boom however, has been fraught with controversy concerning land encroachment. The government is trying to transform it from a backpackers' paradise to a high-end destination. Construction is happening everywhere, with basic huts torn down to make way for fancy resorts.

Geography
Ko Chang is the largest island in the Ko Chang Archipelago. The name means 'Elephant Island', named for the elephant shape of its headland, although elephants are not indigenous to the island.

Ko Chang has an area of approximately 429 km². The topography contains high mountains and complex stone cliffs. The highest peak is Khao Salak Phet which is 744 m high, rich in fertile evergreen forest which is the main water source. There are many waterfalls, beaches and splendid reefs in the west of the island.

Most accommodation is on the west side of the island, where the sandy beaches are. On the east side there are no sandy beaches and it is far less touristy. There are some nice waterfalls though.

Seventy percent of the island is rain forest, steep hills, cliffs, waterfalls, and wildlife, fine beaches, coral reefs and an abundance of marine life. The island also has tall mountains and rock cliffs.

Climate
Ko Chang has the same seasons as Bangkok. The best season to go is the (comparatively) cool season between Nov-Feb. Mar-May are roasting hot and between Jun-Oct it rains, and a lot at that: 4,000 mm in an average year. Many guesthouses close during this season, so accommodation is limited. If you don't mind the rain, traveling during the rainy season can be enjoyable nevertheless, and prices for accommodation are low.

By plane
Bangkok Airways flies three times a day from Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) to Trat Airport. The flights depart at 08:30, 12:40 and 16:50, and takes 1 hour. Fares are between 1,800-3,300 baht.

Direct door-to-door minibus transfers from Trat airport to Ko Chang resorts cost 500 baht/person one way and 900 baht/person return including the ferry crossing.

From Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport, take the free express shuttle bus from outside the arrivals concourse to the airport's own bus terminal, and from there the next available bus to either Trat or Chanthaburi, then proceed as described below.

While flying might sound better then the 5-hour trip in the government bus, keep in mind that with travel to BKK Airport, checkin, waiting, etc., there is only a minimal time save. Transport from Trat Airport to the island by minibus costs more than the whole bus trip from Bangkok would cost, and you still have to depend on dangerous minibus drivers for the most dangerous part of the road.

From Bangkok

 * From Bangkok's Eastern Terminal (Ekamai) 1st class Government Bus 999 offers the most economical way to Laem Ngop, where the Ko Chang ferry piers are. It costs 268 baht, takes just over 5 hr and goes via Suvarnabhumi Airport and Chanthaburi, where you can alternatively get on/off (subject to seat availability). Departures from Ekamai are at 07:45, from Laem Ngop at 14:30 (May 2023). The bus is staffed with someone to hand out drinks and snacks, has an acceptable driving style and an on board toilet.


 * From Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport Bus 392 by Suvarnabhumi Burapha Bus Company offers a more comfortable way to Ko Chang. The bus leaves the airport at 07:50 and starts its return trip at 13:00. Fare is 600 baht.


 * From Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport the Lonely Beach Express shared minibuses go non-stop to Ko Chang's Lonely Beach (at least 600 baht one way or 800 baht return). Departures from BKK are at 09:30, 11:00, and 14:00 and from Lonely Beach at 07:00, 09:00, 17:00, and 19:00. If booked through guesthouses, the minibuses collect passengers along the route on Ko Chang's west coast.


 * From Bangkok's Khao San area the large, nice air-con VIP Bus by Travelsmart conveniently goes to the Ko Chang's Centrepoint ferry terminal. It takes 4-5 hours and is bookable for 300 baht from most travel agents near Khao San. Departure is scheduled for 08:00, but times can vary.


 * Direct minibuses leave from Bangkok's Khao San Road and Victory Monument (in front of Payathai Hospital) for Laem Ngop.


 * Many taxis from Bangkok city may decline the trip as the risk of empty return is too high for them. However, airport taxis will usually deliver you to the island in 5–5½ hours, especially if they can make it back to the mainland before the last ferry sails.




 * A non-direct alternative are buses via Trat. Many 1st class (5-6 hr, around 250 baht) and 2nd class services from both the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai) and Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit, though not as frequently) in Bangkok go to Trat (timetables). From there, frequent songthaews bring you to Laem Ngop (approximately 30 min, 50 baht per person).

If you are in Southern Bangkok, take the 511 air-con bus from Bangkok's Southern (Sai Tai Mai) to the Eastern (Ekamai) bus terminal.

From the west (Pattaya)

 * From Pattaya 2nd class bus connections are also via Trat (to Trat: 4 hr, 200 baht).
 * From Pattaya and Ban Phe, the gateway to Ko Samet, direct minibuses go to Laem Ngop.

From the south

 * From the Hat Lek/Koh Kong border crossing minibuses should go every 45 min to Trat (they leave when full). Price is 140 baht (March 2023) from the border to Trat bus station; it takes around 90 min.

It may also be possible (depending on the time of year, time of day - inquire locally) at the border to catch a direct minibus or songthaew to Laem Ngop. They, however, are less comfortable and spacious than public buses, and you may be charged significantly more by travel agencies selling tickets to these, as often with any tourist-oriented transportation in Thailand.

By boat


Most ferries operate from Laem Ngop, which has three piers: the Laem Ngop (Tha Khrom Luang or Tha Laern Ngop) pier is approximately 700 m west of Laem Ngop; the Centrepoint (Tha Centre Point) pier is about 3.5 km northwest of Laem Ngop. These piers serve both vehicle and passenger ferries; the Ko Chang vehicle ferry pier is in Thammachat Bay (Ao Thammachat), around 15 km west of Laem Ngop.

All piers on Ko Chang are on the east side of the island. The major piers are the two Dan Kao piers, Tha Dan Kao and Tha Ferry Dan Kao, which handle most of the traffic. To take a boat from Laem Ngop to the Dan Kao piers takes around 45 minutes. The car ferry from Laem Ngop takes around 1 hr and arrives at the Tha Ferry Dan Kao pier, 400 m southeast of the Tha Dan Kao pier. The car ferry from Thammachat Bay stops at the Ko Chang Ferry Pier (Tha Ferry Ko Chang) in Sapparot Bay (Ao Sapparot), 3 km northwest of the Dan Kao piers.

Light meals, fruit and drinks are available at the piers and on the car ferries.

There are two operators who provide daily bus services from Ko Kut to Ko Chang. One is based in Bang Bao, the other on Kai Bae Beach. Rates are the same but departures times can vary, so make sure to book ahead.
 * Ferry timetables - Up to date ferry timetables for services between the mainland and Koh Chang.

Get around
The only form of public transportation on Ko Chang is the songtaew. There are about 90 licenced songtaews whose drivers form a co-op. They have a rostering system that ensures equal access to the pier so all drivers receive a fair share of the lucrative fares from piers to accommodation. This means that shorter fares along the west coast are more expensive per kilometre than fares from the pier. Official prices are listed here.

In the daytime, you can catch a songthaew on its route around the main road for 50-200 baht/person (Nov 2022), depending on distance. The rates are generally much higher than in other places, but the vehicles are almost new and in excellent condition. Starting from 17:00, many of them start to ask "taxi" price, telling you that they operate as a public transport only until that time, and may quote prices as high as say 500 baht from Lonely Beach to the Dan Kao pier. However, if you have some time and patience, you still can try and have a "shared" ride with some drivers, maybe for a higher rate if they expect little or no other passengers. There is no service between 01:00 and 07:00.

These taxis are also waiting at the Dan Kao Pier (50 baht/person to White Sand Beach, 100 baht to Lonely Beach). At the Dan Kao Ferry Pier there may be no taxis available. If you arrive without a vehicle you may have to walk the 400 m to Dan Kao Pier.

Most hotels can also organise a rental car for you. A four wheel drive is not needed for most places, but could be a good idea in the rainy season on some of the roads, especially near Lonely Beach.

If there are 2 or more people going with you, hiring a songthaew may cost the same price, or even be cheaper than paying per each person in a "shared" songthaew (there is no difference, an empty songthaew can easily be hired). Just do not forget to bargain if their price sounds quite silly when compared, say, to Bangkok taxi-meter (on Ko Chang, it can be difficult if not impossible to get the same price, but you should not have to pay double). Most folks however, just stay put on the beach of their choice and walk to wherever they want to go.

Hitching on Ko Chang is also an alternative if you choose not to pay the often exorbitant fees of the songthaew. Many islanders are more than willing to pick up a hitchhiker who happens to be going the same way they are. A Coke or cold bottle of green tea for the driver are always appreciated at the end of your journey.

Motorbike rental
Motorbikes are a fantastic way to explore the island. Small motorcycles can be hired for 150-250 baht per day. The main road is sealed and almost circles the island and there are plans to complete the circuit in the near future. The eastern road leading all the way to the War Memorial, at the island's southeasternmost point, is worth a trip.

Riding a motorbike is not for the inexperienced or faint of heart. Most visitors manage on level roads, during the daytime and during good weather conditions. Darkness and rain, together with poor skills, steep hills and questionable maintenance can be fatal. Statistics vary, but numbers of arround one death / day during high season are not unheard of. Think twice if you have to travel at night, and when it rains during the night, avoid the steep hills in the north and the southwest. The east coast has far less traffic, but that doesn't mean it's safer.

When renting a bike, check tires, brakes, lights and mirrors. Engine must stop when extending the side stand. Reputable shops will fix and issues while you wait. Even better, good rental shops only display bikes that are in top condition. There are a lot of rental shops which take this serious, so pick one of them. Don't compromise on safety. Bring your own helmet if you have one. Every rental place provides helmets, but these provide limited protection.

Anti-lock braking (ABS) is getting more and more common with mid-range bikes. If you can, get a bike with ABS. The ABS indicator light will be lit after start and will turn off when starting driving. If not, something is off.

Use maximum caution when riding. Don't get complacent, even if you are used to driving bigger bikes in your home country. There might be surprises at any time, from any direction. As you are not wearing any protective clothing, going over 30 km/h might not be a good idea. Don't match the speed of the locals. The first rain after a dry period is the most dangerous time. Avoid the roads until the slippery stuff has washed of. The sharp curve right after Siam Bay resort (painted red) should be completely avoided in this case.



See

 * Bays include Ao Salak Phet, the largest on the island, and Ao Bai Lan (อ่าวใบลาน).
 * Bays include Ao Salak Phet, the largest on the island, and Ao Bai Lan (อ่าวใบลาน).
 * Bays include Ao Salak Phet, the largest on the island, and Ao Bai Lan (อ่าวใบลาน).





Beaches
Backpackers will opt to head a couple of kilometres south of Kai Bae Beach to Lonely Beach, which is known for cheap accommodation and almost nightly parties in high season. A quieter alternative is Klong Kloi Beach on the south coast of Ko Chang. This was deserted until 2006 but is now home to a community of beach bars, restaurants, and accommodation.









Waterfalls
The hilly nature of the island provides it with a number of popular waterfalls. Waterfalls on the east side of the island include Khlong Nonsi, Khlong Nueng, Khiri Phet which is about three kilometres from Salak Phet village, the five waterfalls of Khlong Koi near Bang Bao, and the Than Mayom waterfall near Than Mayom pier.













Do











 * Hike with a park ranger from the Than Mayom Waterfall to the Klong Plu Waterfall. The cross island trek takes 8–10 hours and costs 500 baht per person.


 * Trek in the jungle with Tan, +66 89 6452019, +66 89 8322531, who has been taking guided treks for over 10 years and speaks very good English.


 * Learn Thai cooking in one of the three Thai cooking schools around Klong Prao: Kati Culinary, Ko Chang Thai Cooking, Blue Lagoon.


 * Guided sea kayaking trips. S.E.A. Kayaking is run by a qualified British guide. They use imported sea kayaks and equipment. They offer single day expeditions off the west coast and multi-day expeditions in the southern islands.


 * Meet retired Ko Chang elephants at the north end of White Sand Beach.

Eat
Menus are similar to the rest of Thailand, but the high island prices are due not so much to higher transportation costs, but because of high demand. There are many restaurants on any given beach open both daytime and evening with a strong concentration of tourist venues on White Sand Beach.

The beaches of Ko Chang are all dotted with restaurants dishing up some delicious seafood as well as offering romantic evening views.

Sunsets can be watched in style from the terrace at the Top Resort on south White Sand Beach from the vantage of a cliff top. Bring an appetite and your camera, no reservations needed.

White Sand Beach





Bang Bao



Drink
Chang beer is common, as is the slightly more expensive Tiger beer. Try Ko Chang's own fruit wine which comes in a variety of flavours including mangosteen and pineapple. Prices start at 200 baht in shops. There are some quiet beach bars dotted around White Sand Beach with amazing sunset views.

Lonely Beach's nightlife and bar scene is gaining a reputation among the backpacker community. It is the place to be for "full moon" imitations, bucket parties, and dance till you pass out disco bars. The rubbish left over from the parties are barely cleaned up, so the next day you can see exactly where the party took place from the main road. The party location generally rotates among several different bars depending on the day of the week, and is usually heavily advertised which bar is "the spot" for each night.

If you are looking for the Pattaya style red-light experience, Koh Chang might not be the place. Kai Bae Walking street has some beer bars available, and some are dotted along the main road on the west coast. There is also a beer bar hub at white sand beach near the Babylon club.

Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach)
Most hotels are on the west side of the island, with many resorts and guest houses all along the road that leads down the coast. Generally speaking, prices drop off the further away from the port you get. Supply far out-strips demand, so finding a place to stay should never be hard, though the best or cheapest places may fill up at weekends.



Klong Prao Beach












Hat Tha Nam (Lonely Beach)
Following a great deal of development, the name "Lonely Beach" has become something of a misnomer. Lonely Beach is the party capital of the island and each guesthouse on Lonely Beach takes it in turns to hold "party night," during which the partying and attendant thumping music goes on until about 05:00 and all the revellers on the island come to your guesthouse. If you want to sleep then Lonely Beach is not the place for you. Most guesthouses giving "Lonely Beach" as an address are not located along the actual beach, but about 500 m down the road. From the village access to the sea is not possible as the coast is rocky.



Bailan Beach
Most of this beach is rocky, only the southern end—which is dominated by the resort, not really welcoming non-residents—is sandy.



Bang Bao Bay
Bang Bao is on the south side of the island. It's little more than a long stretch of wooden deck that takes 5 minutes to walk down, with dive shops, seafood restaurants, local houses and accommodation.









Internet
Koh Chang has excellent internet connectivity; optical fiber is available even in the most remote parts. Almost every hotel, restaurant, massage place etc. offers free Wi-Fi. The 4G network is also very good and reliable.

Most internet problems are the result of power outages or the Wi-Fi access point being too far away from your room, not with the uplink itself. If you let the hotel staff know, they will move you to a room with better reception if available, just ask.

During heavy rain and storms, fiber cables can be damaged, but are usually fixed the next day.

There is one coworking place on Koh Chang (closed as of Dec 2022), but remote workers should be fine relying on a combination of Wi-Fi and 4G.

Go next
Two types of boat leave from Bang Bao: slow wooden boats, and speedboats. The slow boats make one departure per day: at 09:00 each morning. The speedboats depart at 09:30 and 12:00 daily. Kai Bae Hut (on Kai Bae Beach) operates one speedboat per day in each direction to the following islands: These speedboats only operate during the high season: 1 November to 30 April.