Kitakyushu

Kitakyūshū (北九州) is a large city in Fukuoka prefecture on the island of Kyushu, Japan. Together with Shimonoseki it is part of the Kanmon Straits area. In terms of area it is the largest city in Kyushu, though Fukuoka has the bigger population. The population of Kitakyushu is about one million (or 1.3 million including Shimonoseki). Kitakyushu was created in 1963 from the five smaller cities of Kokura (小倉), Moji (門司), Tobata (戸畑), Wakamatsu (若松) and Yahata (八幡), and it retains this sense of being a country area with much diversity and beautiful nature, despite its reputation as a steel town.

Understand
Kokura, the heart of Kitakyushu, is an ancient feudal castle town guarding the Straits of Shimonoseki. Kokura was supposed to be the target of the second nuclear bomb in World War II. However, it was cloudy on the day of the attack and the plane diverted to Nagasaki instead.

The modern city of Kitakyushu dates back only to 1963, when the cities of Moji, Kokura, Tobata, Yahata and Wakamatsu were merged by administrative fiat.

Tourist information site
The local tourist association has a multilingual guide site.

Districts

 * Moji is the city's most touristic ward due to its charming historical center, containing several buildings from end of 19th-early 20th centuries. Offers also great views of the imponent Kanmonkyo Bridge leading to Shimonoseki
 * Kokura is Kitakyushu's main transport, shopping and nightlife hub, also containing a nice riverside area where the Kokura castle is located
 * Tobata is a more suburban and industrial area, hosting cheap, good-quality restaurants and the most important cultural event of the city, the Tobata Gion Yamagasa festival
 * Yahata contains a former industrial wasteland which has been completely redeveloped, now containing excellent museums.
 * Wakamatsu, in an island linked to the continent by the "unnecessarily huge" Wakato bridge, is popular among locals for its pleasant green areas and beaches

By plane


More than 30 buses per day run between the airport and the Kokura station, many of them nonstop, but most stopping at each train station along the way. Buy the tickets before boarding for ¥620. The first bus leaves Kokura station Bus Center at 04:00, and the last bus leaves the airport at 24:55, after the last flight from Tokyo. Buses also run to/from Shimonoseki station eight times per day (70 minutes, ¥1000). If coming from the southeastern side of Kyushu, instead of going all the way to Kokura you can disembark at Kusami station (朽網駅), which has shuttle buses every 30 minutes or so to the airport, 20 minutes away, but only local trains stop at Kusami, no express trains.

By train


Kokura Station (小倉駅) is the main railway station and is on the San'yo Shinkansen Line. All San'yo Shinkansen trains stop at Kokura. Nozomi, Mizuho, Sakura and Hikari Rail Star trains make frequent runs to/from Hiroshima, Okayama and Osaka, with some Nozomi trains also running from Kyoto, Nagoya and Tokyo. Sakura trains also run to/from Kumamoto and Kagoshima. Remember that the Japan Rail Pass covers all the forementioned sections above, except Nozomi and Mizuho trains.

Both the San'yo Shinkansen Line and the Kagoshima Main Line (鹿児島本線 Kagoshima honsen) connect Kitakyushu to Hakata station in Fukuoka. On the Shinkansen, Kokura can be reached from Hakata in 15-20 minutes at a cost of ¥2050 for an unreserved seat. Frequent Kodama runs are made between the two stations during rush hours.

By ferry
Kokura ferry terminal connects with Matsuyama in Ehime Prefecture, Shikoku with an overnight ferry service. The ferry departs at 21:55 and arrives at 05:00 (you may stay on board until 07:00). A second class bunk costs ¥11,100 (as of April 2022). You need to fill out a short form before boarding the ferry.

Shin Moji ferry terminal connects with Osaka, Kobe and Tokyo. The Tokyo service is operated by Ocean Tokyu Ferry, 03-5148-0109; passenger fares are ¥14,000 for second class and ¥26,600 for first class.

By train
For a tourist, JR trains are the easiest and likely the most convenient means of transport (except to and from the airport), as they give access to most of the city's non-natural attractions. Acquiring the JR Northern Kyushu pass is an overkill if you just want to go around Kitakyushu, but an attractive option if you also intent to go to nearby cities like Fukuoka and Beppu. Take note that the JR Northern Kyushu/JR Kyushu passes do not allow you to use the Shinkansen to go from Kokura to Hakata (but the normal JR Pass does).

By bus
Nishitetsu Bus operates local services as well as highway buses to nearby cities. Nishitetsu Buses accept most Japanese transport smartcards (Suica, PASMO, Sugoca, etc.) which will save you a lot of hassle and also save you some money when you transfer to the train or another bus to get to your destination. Bus stops are very informative, containing complete information about lines and time tables, although you will need to figure out the Kanji and delays of up to 5 minutes are normal.

By monorail
The Kitakyushu Monorail runs every ten minutes from JR Kyushu's Kokura station to Kikugaoka in Kokura Minami ward. The monorail is fun to ride and provides interesting views of the city, but its usefulness is impaired by the fact it offers no discount for transfer to trains or buses. Only a few station announcements are in English (including the stop for the Kitakyushu Media Dome and for the University of Kitakyushu).

On foot
Walking around the Kokura station is a breeze as there are many covered pedestrian pathways and arcades. Mojiko and Yahata are also more conveniently explored on foot.

See
The city has the reputation of being just an industrial area, but this is only true of part of the coastline. The city covers a very large area (much larger than Fukuoka, 486 km² as compared with 340), and there are many pleasant spots for sightseeing and recreation.

Kokura



 * Mori Ogai house in Kokura. Literary giant Ogai wrote his Kokura Nikki (Kokura Diary) here. Ogai was based at the castle at the turn of the 19th-20th century when it was a military base. He was born in Tsuwano in Shimane prefecture.
 * Mori Ogai house in Kokura. Literary giant Ogai wrote his Kokura Nikki (Kokura Diary) here. Ogai was based at the castle at the turn of the 19th-20th century when it was a military base. He was born in Tsuwano in Shimane prefecture.


 * Hiraodai (平尾台). A rare karst plateau in Kokura Minami ward, 30-40 minutes by car from Kokura station. The grassy mountains are covered with large gray round rocks which the locals will tell you look like sheep grazing. Great for walks, hiking and camping. Caves can also be visited and the Shonyudo cave is not to be missed - wade through ice cold water in midsummer. There is no direct public transportation to Hiraodai, but a reasonably priced taxi service is available. The taxi leaves from the Nakatani Nishitetsu bus terminal (中谷車庫) and stops five minutes later at the JR Ishiharamachi Station (石原町駅) on the Hita-Hikosan Line (日田彦山線). It leaves the bus terminal twice a day M-F (09:40 and 16:05) and four times a day on Sa Su and holidays (09:40, 10:45, 13:40, 14:50). For more information about the taxi, call Hiraodai Kankou taxi at 451–0201, or ask at Kokura station information desk on the third floor.
 * Sugao no taki waterfall in Kokura Minami ward - cool and popular with Japanese residents in the summer. Watch out for baby wild boars (uribo) which have been known to nibble at feet in search of food (from personal experience). You can rent bicycles from Dobaru cycling terminal and cycle around the whole area for a few hundred yen. Buses run to here from Kokura Station.

Moji



 * Moji-ko Retro, a few minutes walk from Moji-ko station, is also attractive, and aimed specifically at the tourist trade. You can hire a rickshaw, visit the old buildings (including the room where Albert Einstein stayed the night at the Mitsui Club in 1922) and shop for souvenirs. Also be sure to go up the Moji Port Retro Observation Deck - there is a great 180-degree view from the 31st floor on fine days. Moji-ko is linked by a small and rapid ferry with Shimonoseki on the other side of the Kanmon straits. There is also an underground walk-way through the Kanmon Strait that connects Kyushu to the main island of Honshu. Moji-ko is famous for its Yakicurry, rice topped with Japanese curry, covered in cheese with an egg thrown in, and then baked.  There are several restaurants in the area that serve variations of this specialty.  The shabu shabu restaurant in Moji-ko station is also well worth a visit. Moji supposedly was a place where bananas were shipped to once and you can now buy banana soft-serve ice cream and other banana treats at touristy places there.  For those with a little extra cash and an adventurous appetite, it is also famous for its Fugu (blowfish).

Wakamatsu



 * Iwaya beach in Wakamatsu ward. You can catch the Kitakyushu City bus No. 41 from JR Kokura and Orio Stations. Get off at the last stop, Iwaya. Direct buses from Kokura station leave at 12:09 on weekdays and 10:16 on weekends and holidays. ¥440. Beware jellyfish after mid-August!

Yahata

 * Kawachi reservoir in Yahata Higashi ward has an onsen (hot spring) with a rotenburo (outdoor bath). Courtesy bus from Yahata station. You can walk round the reservoir in about an hour, or rent a bicycle.
 * Mount Sarakura, accessible by Hobashira cable car, provides superb views of the city, especially at night.

Museums






Do

 * Visit the Blast furnace near Space World train station. Japan's steel industry began here in 1901 and the original furnace is preserved as steelmaking was so important to Japan and the development of Kitakyushu in the 20th century. Also nearby are the city's natural history museum and environment museum.


 * Cruise the Dokaiwan sea inlet between Tobata and Wakamatsu wards at night. Advanced bookings required, 19:00-21:00, Fridays in August, leaving from Tobata ferry stage, about seven minutes walk from Tobata station. Four trips only each year. ¥3,000 per person. Includes visit to former Furukawa Kogyo building in Wakamatsu where we were treated to live Hawaiian music and beer. Overall a good evening. The boats used for the cruise are the ferry boats which ply between Tobata and Wakamatsu, Japan's shortest and cheapest ferry (3 minutes, ¥50 per person, ¥50 per bicycle).
 * Walk to Honshu! Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel starts in Moji-ko, near Mekari Park. The tunnel runs underwater between the islands of Kyushu and Honshu. After about ten minutes' walk you have emerged in Shimonoseki in Honshu, where you can ride a cable car up Hinoyama and enjoy a nice view of the Kanmon straits and Kitakyushu. Best on a clear day!

Midsummer festivals
Watch one of the summer festivals held in July:



Midsummer Fireworks (hanabi)
Summer firework displays (hanabi taikai) are also held in various places in and around Kitakyushu in July and August. Usually at least 3,000 fireworks are let off.

The biggest one with no less than 13,000 fireworks (!) is the Kanmon Straits display between Kitakyushu and Shimonoseki (mid-August 13). Be prepared for big crowds, especially on the trains to and from Kokura to Moji-ko.

Cherry blossom viewing (hanami) in spring
One of the best and most popular places for hanami is around Kokura castle, but there are many others.

Buy

 * Explore the spacious and ultra-modern Riverwalk shopping complex by the Murasaki river and near the castle
 * Visit the classical department store, Izutsuya
 * Stroll through Uomachi shopping area.
 * The tiny traditional open-air Tanga market has fresh fish, fruit and vegetables in abundance. It is the oldest shopping arcade in Japan.

Eat

 * Rihga Royal Hotel has several high-priced restaurants.
 * There are many restaurants to suit all budgets in the Uomachi area near Kokura station, and at the top of the Izutsuya department store. Also try the sixth floor of Amu Plaza building above Kokura station.
 * There is a McDonald's and a Lotteria Burger near Kokura station for the starving and desperate.
 * In the sixth floor of Amu Plaza building, there is a kaiten (revolving) sushi restaurant. The chefs will make sushi to request and oblige requests for substitutions or no wasabi. They also make some grilled/seared fish sushi -- delicious! They have a few vegetarian options like kappamaki and you can also get fresh fruit and fried chicken and other non-sushi dishes. Service can really vary from time to time though -- sometimes the waitresses are more helpful and sometimes they ignore you.
 * For cheaper stuff or deli take-out, you can find lots of good things to eat in the basement of Izutsuya.
 * Towards the back of Kokura Station, across from the Shinkansen gate, there is a shopping area called Himawari Street. Downstairs in this area you will find another cluster of places to eat, including a sports yakitori bar, oden, okonomiyaki, yakisoba, Ringer Hut for fast food, and a 1950s-60s retro-styled area of tonkotsu ramen places.
 * Popular foods in Kitakyushu include karashi mentaiko (辛子明太子, spicy pickled cod roe), tonkotsu ramen (the stinkier the better, apparently), and yaki-udon (just like yakisoba but using udon noodles). Chanpon, yakiniku, and Korean food such as bibimba also seem to be enjoying strong popularity.
 * Hardtack has been sold since the 1920s in Yahata. Be careful not to break your teeth.
 * Kokura is, quite literally, synonymous with a type of finely filtered red bean jam known as ogura-an (小倉餡) with an alternative reading of kokura-an, which makes its way into all sorts of Japanese pastries and desserts. But in fact ogura-an is from Ogurayama, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto, and ogura-an pan (red bean jam in bread rolls) was first made in Tokyo.

Drink

 * There are three Starbucks in Kokura, one in Riverwalk, one near Kokura station and one inside the SunLive City shopping mall.
 * There are three Starbucks in Kokura, one in Riverwalk, one near Kokura station and one inside the SunLive City shopping mall.

Sleep
There are all sorts of options from the lap of luxury down to the cheapest ryokan. Ask at the Information desk, third floor of Kokura station.

Stay safe
Kudo-kai, a yakuza organization known to use firearms and explosives, headquarters in Kitakyushu, and have records of using firearms and explosives to deal with anyone and any organizations dare to resist them, and in rare occasions, causing death of innocent civilians. The current situation have been improved, yet for the sake of your safety, stay away from gang activities.

During gang wars, explosives, especially hand grenades, are used often. If you encounter any suspicious objects, do not touch them. You should instead, dial 110 for local police assistance.

Go next

 * Shimonoseki on Honshu is a short train ride from Kokura. Additionally, StarFlyer has a promotion where, if arriving from or going to Tokyo on any of their flights, they will offer taxi service between Kitakyushu Airport and Shimonoseki for only ¥1000.
 * Hakata station in Fukuoka is twenty minutes by Shinkansen from Kokura, or about one hour by express.
 * Nakama
 * Nogata
 * Kanda
 * Yukuhashi
 * Munakata
 * Chikujo
 * Kurate