Kirkwall

Kirkwall is the chief town of the Orkney Islands, which lie off the north tip of mainland Scotland. With a population of about 10,000 in 2020, Kirkwall has accommodation and other amenities and is the obvious base for exploring these islands.

Understand
Kirkwall is a busy working port and at first glance not attractive, but the charming old town is just behind the industrial frontage. Small freighters, fishing vessels and inter-island ferries bustle around the harbour; people stroll about their business along the narrow alleys; the crumbling medieval stonework of the cathedral catches the sunlight. And you start to relax and feel the magic of Orkney... then a cruise ship arrives and its 4,000 passengers descend upon the place. Kirkwall and all the major sights of Orkney are mobbed when a cruise ship is in. However those visitors seldom stray from a standard circuit, so head for one of the many attractions they overlook, and return to enjoy Kirkwall in the evening after they've left.

Tourist information is at the bus station in town centre.

By plane
is 5 miles southeast of town. Loganair fly to Kirkwall from Dundee, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen and Sumburgh in the Shetland Islands. They also operate inter-island flights to Westray, Papa Westray, Sanday and Eday, see Orkney Islands for more details.

By boat
There are four ferry routes between the Scottish mainland and Orkney. The only one to Kirkwall is the Northlink Aberdeen to Shetland car ferry, which calls here several nights a week. Northbound it leaves Aberdeen at 5PM (Apr-Oct Tu Th Sa Su, Nov-Mar Th Sa Su), reaching Kirkwall Hatston Terminal at 11PM before sailing on to Lerwick for 7:30AM next morning. Southbound the ferry leaves Lerwick at 5:30PM (Apr-Oct M W F, Nov-Mar: W & F), similarly reaching Kirkwall at 11PM before sailing on to Aberdeen for 7AM next morning.

For practical details and tips on using this ferry, see Shetland Islands. Points specific to Orkney are:
 * Ferries to Kirkwall, from Aberdeen and Lerwick, are evening sailings arriving by 11PM, so you don't need a cabin, a lounge seat is fine. (But you need to have sorted your Orkney accommodation, as near midnight is a poor time to start looking.) Sailings from Kirkwall to Aberdeen or Lerwick are overnight so you'll appreciate the cabin, and ability to doze on board till 9AM.
 * Motorists, check that you're in the correct queue of vehicles, otherwise you'll get locked in by vehicles going all the way to Shetland or Aberdeen.
 * At Kirkwall you need to disembark promptly, as the ferry soon sails on.
 * Fares vary by season, but in 2024 the single fare from Aberdeen is about £31 per adult, £16 per child and £125 per car. Reserving a reclining seat is £3.50, while twin cabins start from £80 pp.

is 2 miles north of town on the main road to Stromness: look for the very large wind turbine. Check-in for vehicles is at the start of the pier, check-in for foot passengers is at the end. A late-night connecting bus X10 runs from Kirkwall right to the end of the pier, back to Kirkwall, then on to Stromness — it doesn't run if the ferry's not sailing. Bus X1 Stromness-Kirkwall-St Margaret's Hope also passes the junction for the terminal, but the last bus is a couple of hours before the ferry.

The other three routes, described under Orkney Islands, are:
 * Scrabster to Stromness car ferry 2 or 3 times a day, 90 min.
 * Gill's Bay to St Margaret's Hope car ferry 3 times a day, taking an hour.
 * John O'Groats to Burwick ferry for foot passengers and cyclists only, 2 or 3 times a day May-Sep, 40 min.

Kirkwall is also the starting point for ferries between Mainland and the islands of Shapinsay, Stronsay, Eday, Sanday, Westray, Papa Westray and North Ronaldsay - see those islands for details. These sail from the piers in town centre, not from Hatston Terminal. For ferries from Stromness and Tingwall see Orkney Islands: "Get around".

Cruise ships often visit the Orkneys. They either berth at Hatston Terminal with a shuttle-bus to town, or anchor out in the bay with tenders bringing passengers ashore. The main tourist attractions are mobbed when they arrive.

By bus
June to August there's a daily bus from Inverness, which meets the John O'Groats foot-passenger ferry to Burwick, from where there's a connecting bus to Kirkwall: see Orkney Islands.

For bus services around Mainland, see.

By car
Kirkwall has numerous car parks located in the town centre and harbour area. Parking around the harbour is free and mainly unlimited time, so it is the best place to park if you are exploring the town for a whole day. However, there can be a lack of parking in the town, even in the pay car parks.

Car parks charges in summer are 1 hour - 40p, 2 hours - 80p, 3 hours - £1; winter 1 hour - free, 2 hours - 50p, 3 hours - £1.

Get around
Buses are operated by Stagecoach. Most of the Orkney Mainland buses run via Kirkwall. They are geared to shoppers and school-run, and there may be long gaps in the schedule mid-afternoon. A day-ticket costs £7.30 adult — worth it if you're doing more than a simple return. Drivers give change within reason. No bikes on the buses. The principal services are:


 * Bus X1 runs right across Mainland east from Stromness, Stenness (near the stones) and Finstown to Kirkwall, then south across the Churchill Barrier past the Italian Chapel to Burray and St Margarets Hope ferry terminal. It doesn't go as far south as Burwick ferry terminal. It's hourly between Stromness and Kirkwall, every two hours or so south of there.
 * Bus 4 runs between Kirkwall and the airport every 30 min M-Sa, hourly Su, taking 10-15 min. This one is regular, Su-F 6:15AM-7:15PM, Sa till 4:15PM when the last flight comes in.
 * Bus 2 runs from Kirkwall via Scapa and Ophir to Houton, terminal for the ferry to Hoy (Lyness) and Flotta. Five or six daily, 20 min. Also bus 5 runs from Houton to Stromness.
 * Bus 6 runs every couple of hours from Kirkwall via Finstown to Tingwall, for the Rousay, Egilsay and Wyre ferries, 20 min. Only the first and last buses of the day continue round the coast to Birsay, so they're impractical for sight-seeing. You might get there on Bus 7, twice per afternoon, which runs from Kirkwall to Finstown then across the fields to Birsay, then on to Stromness.
 * There's also X10 to the ferry terminal (see ), Bus 3 via the airport to Tankerness, Toab and Deerness, and Bus 9 which circles town.
 * A circular tour bus Stagecoach T11 is advertised wasn't running in 2021.

Taxi firms: see list under Orkney Islands.

See

 * Town centre: The most attractive part of Kirkwall is its central alley, which starts as Bridge St by the harbour, turns along Albert St, then widens into Broad St with the Cathedral and palace ruins. The Kirkwall City Pipe Band often parades here on a Saturday evening. The street then narrows again to the alley of Victoria Street. Beyond the old centre, Kirkwall is a modern and work-a-day place, with marine industries sprawling along the shore.
 * Peedie Sea just west of the centre was once a tidal inlet, now enclosed into two freshwater lagoons. Well, 2.1 if you count the little overflow pond.
 * is an Iron Age chamber from 1000 BC entered by a 5-m underground passage. It was probably part of a larger settlement but is now engulfed by Hatston Industrial Estate on the north edge of town. Free to enter, but you need to collect keys from Judith Glue's Knit Shop at 25 Broad Street during business hours (M-Sa 9AM-9PM, Su 10AM-6PM). The chamber is at the corner of Swordfish Rd and Dakota Rd.
 * is a stone cairn similar to Maeshowe, built around 3000 BC. The interior has been closed to public access so you can only view the "stepped" exterior. It's set into the hill two miles west of Kirkwall, follow Old Finstown Rd not the main road.
 * , circa 1000 BC, is a stone-lined underground chamber accessed by a hatch and a ladder. In it were found the bones of six adults and a dozen children, who may have been interred later. It's 3 miles west of Kirkwall on A965 towards Finstown, in a farmyard. Free to enter any time.
 * is a similar smaller burial chamber from 3000 BC. You need to crawl down the passageway into the chamber. It's a mile further west along the Old Finstown Rd and free to enter anytime.
 * is an Iron Age chamber from 1000 BC entered by a 5-m underground passage. It was probably part of a larger settlement but is now engulfed by Hatston Industrial Estate on the north edge of town. Free to enter, but you need to collect keys from Judith Glue's Knit Shop at 25 Broad Street during business hours (M-Sa 9AM-9PM, Su 10AM-6PM). The chamber is at the corner of Swordfish Rd and Dakota Rd.
 * is a stone cairn similar to Maeshowe, built around 3000 BC. The interior has been closed to public access so you can only view the "stepped" exterior. It's set into the hill two miles west of Kirkwall, follow Old Finstown Rd not the main road.
 * , circa 1000 BC, is a stone-lined underground chamber accessed by a hatch and a ladder. In it were found the bones of six adults and a dozen children, who may have been interred later. It's 3 miles west of Kirkwall on A965 towards Finstown, in a farmyard. Free to enter any time.
 * is a similar smaller burial chamber from 3000 BC. You need to crawl down the passageway into the chamber. It's a mile further west along the Old Finstown Rd and free to enter anytime.
 * , circa 1000 BC, is a stone-lined underground chamber accessed by a hatch and a ladder. In it were found the bones of six adults and a dozen children, who may have been interred later. It's 3 miles west of Kirkwall on A965 towards Finstown, in a farmyard. Free to enter any time.
 * is a similar smaller burial chamber from 3000 BC. You need to crawl down the passageway into the chamber. It's a mile further west along the Old Finstown Rd and free to enter anytime.

Do



 * Pickaquoy Leisure Centre west side of the Peedie Sea has a gym, pool and fitness classes. You can pay-as-you-go without membership.
 * Cinema: New Phoenix Cinema is within Pickaquoy Leisure Centre.
 * Orkney Golf Club is on the main road a mile west of town. White tees 5407 yards, par 69, visitor round £25.
 * Orkney Golf Club is on the main road a mile west of town. White tees 5407 yards, par 69, visitor round £25.

Events

 * Norwegian Constitution Day on 17 May each year commemorates Orkney's historical links, with a parade and guests from Norway.
 * Orkney Folk Festival is held in late May - a few concerts are in Kirkwall, but it's mostly in Stromness.
 * St Magnus International Festival, founded in 1977 by a group including Sir Peter Maxwell Davies, is a week-long arts event in late June, with the next starting F 20 June 2025.
 * Island Games is a sports event in alternate years for 40 islands that don't field Olympic teams. The next are hosted by Orkney, multiple venues but mostly around Kirkwall, 12-18 July 2025. The 2027 games are expected to be in the Faroes.
 * Orkney County Show is an agricultural show in Bignold Park on the second Saturday in August, with the next on Sa 10 Aug 2024.
 * Orkney International Science Festival is first week in September and most events are free. The next is 5-11 Sep 2024.

Buy

 * Craft shops are Ortak Jewellery on Garrison Rd (daily 9AM-5PM) and Longship at 13 Broad St (M-Sa 10AM-5PM). Orcadian Bookshop at 50 Albert St is open M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-5PM.
 * Supermarkets are Tesco, Lidl and Co-op, side-by-side on Pickaquoy Road A963, 400 yards south of the bus station. There's another Co-op in the centre of town.

Budget

 * Takeaways include Harbour Fry on Bridge St, and Willows Chinese on Willow Rd.
 * Strynd Tearoom The Strynd +44 1856 871552, M-Sa 10AM-4PM. A cosy tearoom in an alley beside the cathedral, good cakes.
 * Archive Coffee at 8 Laing St, M-Sa 8:30AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM.
 * The Daily Scoop at 42 Broad St, daily 9:30AM-5PM.
 * Kirkwall & St Ola Community Centre Broad St +44 1856 871552, M-Sa 9:30AM-4PM. Popular cafe opposite the cathedral.
 * Trenabies 16 Albert Street, M-Sa 8:30AM-:30PM & Su 11AM-3PM. Good vegetarian choice.
 * Cafelolz The Strynd, Tu-Sa 10AM-2PM.
 * Pomona Cafe 9 Albert Street, M-Sa 8AM-5PM.

Mid-range

 * Indian Garden at 37 Junction Rd, daily 4PM-midnight.
 * Lucano at 31 Victoria St, daily 7:30AM-9PM.
 * Busters Diner 1 Mounthoolie Place, daily 4:30-8:30PM.
 * Empire Chinese 51 Junction Rd, daily noon-2PM, 5-11:30PM.
 * Hotels: see below for restaurants at The Storehouse, Orkney Hotel, Kirkwall Hotel and Ayre Hotel.
 * Hotels: see below for restaurants at The Storehouse, Orkney Hotel, Kirkwall Hotel and Ayre Hotel.

Drink

 * Pubs include Torvhaug, Skippers, Bothy Bar and Auld Motor Hoose.
 * Try the local whisky, and the beer from Orkney Brewery on the north Mainland near Skara Brae.
 * Orkney Distilling make Kirkjuvagr Gin on the seafront by Ayre Hotel, tours available.

Budget

 * Peedie Hostel is on the seafront sandwiched between Ayre Hotel (below) and the Peedie Sea.

Mid-range
Lots of small B&Bs in Kirkwall. All accommodation is independent and family-run, with no chains. There's no stand-out "Splurge" hotel, but prices are steep in the mid-summer peak.

Further out

 * Scapa Flow Lodges are on Scorradale Rd near Orphir.
 * Scapa Flow Lodges are on Scorradale Rd near Orphir.

Connect
As of July 2024, Kirkwall and its approach roads have patchy 4G from EE, O2 and Vodafone, and a basic mobile signal from Three. 5G has not yet reached Orkney.

Go next

 * Kirkwall is within easy reach of the rest of Orkney. Top sights on Mainland are Stenness with its neolithic remains, Stromness the old fishing port, and the road across the Churchill Barrier past the Italian Chapel.
 * Beyond Mainland, visit one of the other islands for a tranquil contrast: Shapinsay is the closest.
 * The ferry north takes you to Lerwick in the Shetland Islands.
 * Or return south to the Scottish mainland - which you'll have to do to reach the Hebrides and other Scottish islands.