Kinshasa

Kinshasa is the capital of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It faces Brazzaville, the capital of the neighbouring Republic of the Congo, which can be seen in the distance across the wide Congo River. While sprawling, chaotic and often intimidating, Kinshasa is also a major cultural and intellectual center for Central Africa with a flourishing community of musicians and artists.

Understand
Called Leopoldville after King Leopold II of Belgium during colonial rule, and was re-named to its current name in 1966.

Kinshasa has the largest population of any city proper in Africa with a population of almost 15 million (2020), and ranks as its third largest metropolitan area after Cairo and Lagos. It is also declares itself as the largest French-speaking city in the world, you will find that most people's French is far less than fluent (by any other measure, it still ranks second behind the Paris urban area). After decades of armed conflicts imposed by neighbouring countries, the infrastructures of the once leading modern African city are now being remarkably restored. Chinese companies are involved in numerous projects of reconstruction throughout the city.

Climate
Like other cities close to the Equator, Kinshasa's climate is defined by a dry and a wet season. The dry season stretches from June to September, and in these months the temperature is also a few degrees lower than throughout the rain season.

By plane
Kinshasa's N'djili International Airport used to have a terrible reputation for corrupt officials asking for bribes. They have improved things and it is quite manageable. Just follow everyone else and try not to look like a tourist. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is essential. When flying into Kinshasa, be careful not to lose your luggage tag stub, which you need to show to prove that your luggage is yours. Watch out for being mobbed by volunteer 'helpers' once you are outside the airport, who will want to carry your bags in return for tips. When you return to the airport to leave, you can not drive your car or take a cab onto the airport property without paying for parking or access US$5-10. When departing from the airport, a fee of US$55 must be paid (a receipt is issued) before entering the terminal. Visitors are allowed to go with you into the terminal if they pay a US$10 fee. Many travel companies offer, what locals call, protocol, providing assistance in navigating the arrival process and assisting you in collecting luggage and passing the contrôle des douanes.

When leaving, after passing through a security check, you enter the departures area at the airport which has duty free and an Eric Kayser as well as a Brussels Airlines lounge and a VIP and diplomatic lounge - each has their own access policy. When boarding the flight the final time, your departure tax receipts will be verified by the authorities, your passport checked, and you will pass a final security check before boarding the bus to the plane waiting. It should be noted that you cannot bring water past this final security check towards the aircraft as your bags and person will be checked once more.

A taxi into town will probably cost you US$30-50, and usually has no air conditioning. It is an hour's drive into the centre of Kinshasa. Another option is to get a shuttle offered by one of the travel companies on the right outside the arrivals door. However, the best option is facilitating transportation from local contacts and arranging a chauffeur/private driver to pick you up at the airport.

By train
The railway of Congo covered the entire country during colonial times, but has deteriorated. There is a long-distance passenger service from Matadi once a week (7½ hours, around US$15 for crowded second class and US$65 for "deluxe class" as of early 2021), the country's chief sea port on the Congo River and gateway from Angola 300 km away. It's one of the faster passenger trains in central Africa. Tickets are usually only able to be bought the day of travel shortly before the train arrives and can prove to be difficult to get.



By car
Apart from the road Matadi to Kinshasa a car is no means for overland travel. You might be successful with a 4x4 in the upper northern region (Bangassou - Nia Nia - Isiro) and maybe the axis Kinshasa - Lumumbashi. All other towns are accessible only by air transport or boat.

By boat
You can arrive by boat from Brazzaville, if you have a visa. There are speed boats that go quickly for a limited number of people, or you can take the barge with local merchants if you have time. Ask to go to, which is the ferry terminal.

Get around
The city bus system pales in comparison to the "taxi" system that has risen organically to serve the needs of the people of Kinshasa.

Essentially, these taxis are small buses. They run set routes between embarkation points that are the "stops". The cost between these various points is usually around 350 francs. If one's destination is through multiple points, different taxis will need to be boarded to complete the route, making the system take a good deal of time during busy traffic hours.

People waiting at the stops will move their hands in a variety of gestures to signal which direction they are going. A taxi will then stop and pick up someone if they are going in the same direction and have space in the taxi.

This system works well for the locals. For visitors and foreigners, it can be quite difficult as one needs to know the hand signs, have knowledge of the routes, be ready to sit in cramped, hot vehicles with many other people, and deal with the potential dangers of these vehicles as many are barely road-worthy. Traveling through this manner absolutely requires local help for those unfamiliar with the system. One will also have to speak French or Lingala as the drivers do not speak English.

There are also traditional taxis for hire. They are available for single runs or can be hired by the day. This can be a tricky business and should be handled with care (especially at the airport) as there are those will take people to remote locations and rob them. Again, help from a local is best or using drivers that others in the area have past experience with and trust. Rates for these taxis vary widely and if one does not appear to be of African descent, there will also be an automatic premium added.

Hiring a private chauffeur is in common practice for many foreigners in Kinshasa during their stay. Private taxi service can also be arranged by local travel agencies.

The local official bus service, Transco, runs large buses that provide Urban, interurban, and scholarly transportation across the city-province with a network of 33 lines, frequently used by commuting locals.

See




Do

 * A barbecue on a sandbank on the Congo River is a must. Renting a boat for a day with a driver and all the gear (tables, chairs, a suntent and a barbecue) costs around US$150 at the Yacht Club Kinshasa. The boat can take 8 people, so if you share the cost it is quite affordable. A truly unforgettable experience if you don't forget the meat and the Primus.
 * The Association Belgo-Congolais (ABC) rents out videos (VHS and DVD).
 * Go for a walk/jog along the river in front of the British and German embassies.
 * Go to church on a Sunday morning like most of the locals do.
 * Go out to eat at one of the many restaurants, cafes, bars, and night clubs, live it up like a local.

Learn
Lingala is the local language spoken in this region beyond French. Learning a bit goes a long way to befriending locals.

Lingala is spoken almost exclusively by locals as the lingua franca is French. There is extremely limited knowledge of languages other than French and Lingala (and other tribal and local languages such as Swahili). The government and business sector all operates in French and most people in Kinshasa speak French, especially in the commune of Gombe (the business district), and surrounding communes (I.e. Ngaliema, Kintambo, Ngiri-Ngiri, etc.)

Buy

 * Don't forget to get some arts in (market of value), sometimes called marché des voleurs (thieves' market). Be prepared to haggle and don't pay the initial asking price that will be at least 60-75% over the final price if not more. For some more upscale art you can go to the Academie des Beaux Arts on Avenue Pierre Mulele (formerly Avenue 24 Novembre) or to Symphonie des Arts: towards Kintambo on the Boulevard du 30 Juin, turn right after the elephant when you see the barrier on your right, then it's on your left hand across from the big colonial villa. A more time consuming but far more interesting and personal way to get to know the artists of the country would be to visit their private studios. Prices are high even there for paintings of Lema Kusa, Henri Kalama or Nshole, but worth every penny considering the quality of their works and their international prestige.
 * A more relaxed and fun way to buy street art is to have a beer at . It is on the street off the boulevard 30 Juin towards Justice off the INSS building. Sit at a table and have a drink (Primus is recommended) and the artists will come and show all kinds of artworks all the time. The same rule on negotiating applies as at Marché des valeurs.

The good supermarkets are the following:
 * . Good vegetables and all dry goods that you can find in Belgium.
 * Expresse located on the boulevard, a little off from Peloustore. Here you can find good vegetables and the best "charcuterie", cold cut meat.
 * If you turn on the corner of Expresse, you will see this large supermarket on your left hand. It has the best bread in the city. Alternatively across from it you will find excellent bread (and more) in Patisserie Nouvelle, which also has good possibilities of lunch.

Money
The US dollar is the prevalent currency for most transactions of any significant quantity. Payment in US dollars for a purchase will likely return change to you in US dollars for denominations greater than $5-10. Lesser amounts, and any remainder, will be paid in Congolese francs.

Though the Central Bank sets an official conversion rate from the Congolese Franc to the US Dollar, each business can set their own rate as well during inflation, referred to as the taux or taux du jour. This can be far higher at certain establishments, such as at the airport.

Local street vendors operate almost exclusively in Congolese francs.

Credit cards are not widely accepted so don't count on them to keep you afloat. Only major hotels (for example, The Memling) and some supermarkets will accept them (if there are no connectivity issues).

Cash can be withdrawn from the Pro Credit Bank with a valid international Visa ATM card. Denominations are distributed in USD and/or francs. Ensure that you have notified your bank of your intentions to travel in order to ensure seamless and unhindered use of foreign ATMs.

Eat
There are lots of restaurants for expatriates, where you can pay in dollars but they are very expensive. Don't be surprised to pay up to US$20 for a pizza (and $40 at the hotel for one).

Budget

 * Al Dar, near the hotel Memling. A Lebanese restaurant in the city centre. A shwarma sandwich runs about US$3, and they have taboule, hummus and desserts as well.

There are many cheap roadside stalls, primarily outside Gombe.


 * La Bloque, Bandalungwa. One of the better known roadside stalls.
 * Mama Colonel, Bandal. An excellent restaurant. The menu has only 4 items - chicken, fish, fries and plantain - but they are barbecued to perfection.

Mid-range
The freshwater prawns from the Congo River are incredible - called Cossa Cossa on menus (as distinct from imported saltwater prawns which are Gambas) - generally served with a garlic and chili (pili-pili) butter sauce. A plate of these costs around US$25-40, depending where you eat.
 * Marie Kabuang – A bit difficult to find on the first floor of the Sultani Hotel (Avenue de la Justice), but totally renewed restaurant. Very stylish and modern. Breakfast and lunch (international food) for only US$15, guarantee for a fast service, excellent taste.
 * Cercle Elaeis/La Paillotte. Traditional and international food. Outdoor dining with view on the pool. Expensive but great country-club type setting. Packed with visiting expats and Lebanese families hanging by the pool on weekends.
 * La Piscine. Outdoor tables arranged around a swimming pool-great settings and mediocre food for US$40-50 if you restrained yourself. Greek items and pizza as well as the usual dishes.
 * Pizerria Opoeta and Greg's bar: on the road towards the golf course: closest thing to an international pub. Good pizzas. Excellent seafood thanks to the Portuguese proprietors.
 * Mangoustan restaurant at the Memling Hotel: M-F it serves lunch buffet for US$40 with a large variety of Belgian and international dishes, and on Wednesday evening offers a lavish cheese and charcuterie buffet for $40 with a varying wine-by-the glass selection. Good value. Safe parking facilities. Reservations advisable.

Splurge
The more expensive restaurants are in Gombe.


 * Chez Gaby. Portuguese-style. Frequented by the upper class - the food is varied and excellent and if you want to splash out, there are imported items such as foie gras and European wines.
 * Chez Gaby. Portuguese-style. Frequented by the upper class - the food is varied and excellent and if you want to splash out, there are imported items such as foie gras and European wines.
 * Chez Gaby. Portuguese-style. Frequented by the upper class - the food is varied and excellent and if you want to splash out, there are imported items such as foie gras and European wines.
 * Chez Gaby. Portuguese-style. Frequented by the upper class - the food is varied and excellent and if you want to splash out, there are imported items such as foie gras and European wines.

Drink
Local beer: Turbo King is a darker beer, regular lagers are Primus (which some consider is the best local beer, brewed by the local Heineken brewery) and Skol. European Mutzig comes in smaller bottles. A bit more expensive, and slightly harder to find as it is brewed in Lubumbashi by Simba Breweries, is Tembo, a tasty amber ale preferred by locals and expats. Tembo garners the highest ranking for a DRC beer on ratebeer.com. Lots of expensive French and South African wine available in restaurants and supermarkets. Portuguese costs as little as $3 a bottle at grocery stores catering to expats (Peloustore, Express, etc.).

Kinshasa becomes alive most nights when residents head to Matonge, a place filled with dancing bars, restaurants and night clubs. Lately Bandal and Bonmarche are the more popular "quartiers" to visit the local bars and "discotheques". Go to a local nightclub and learn how to dance Congolese rhythms. Get ready to shake your booty! For those that prefer to stay in Gombe, the following offer good possibilities:





Hotel bars are popular with expats and usually have live music several nights a week.



Water
Do not drink from the tap. Bottled water is readily available. Also, when cleaning your teeth use bottled water.

Sleep
Accommodation in Kinshasa can be very expensive. A consequence of the past problems mean that many organisations only recognise two hotels as having international standards. So the Memling and the Grand have a virtual monopoly. Prices of these two can be in excess of $300 per night plus breakfast. Now a new luxury Hotel called Hotel Royal has opened. Modern boutique hotel with all amenities inclusive.

Connect
Plenty of cyber cafes exist, so don't worry about staying connected.

Purchasing a local SIM card is easy at many locations through the city, such as at Pullman Grand Hotel which have Airtel, Orange, and Vodacom stores.

Stay healthy
Don't drink the local water. Bottled water seems to be cheap enough but sometimes hard to find for a good price. The best way is if you are staying in an upscale hotel that provides it with the room just tip the housekeeping staff to get extra bottles put in your room (usually if you tell them while giving them the money that works the best, and after the first 2 days of asking for the water you usually don't have to worry about telling them anymore, just give them the $5 a day).

Make sure you have all required vaccinations, i.e. yellow fever, typhoid, etc.

Mosquitoes can be a problem in all the city. Malaria medication should be taken.

Stay safe
It is strongly recommended that you have someone with you at all times that is a local (besides while being in your hotel). Taxi drivers will usually stay with you too when going to local shops and making quick stops and will serve as your translator if you get a good one. Be careful with any equipment you have with you such as digital cameras and video equipment. Be careful also of what you take pictures of. Even if they say no photos only at the airport and of government buildings, a lot of times the police and UN people will get upset if you are taking videos at other places where it is supposed to be ok to do. Just be sure to have plenty of locals with you that know what they are doing and can provide security and a way out if you get stuck or in trouble. Follow their advice and pay attention when out and about. When in doubt about taking a photo of something don't until you get very clear instructions that it is ok. Don't keep cameras in open view unless you've been cleared to take a photo (which is just like taking a photo to them it seems). Also be equally prepared for hostility and positive reactions when taking photos.

When travelling by car, always lock all the doors before you set off, as it is not uncommon for opportunist thieves to try to open them and snatch belongings. For the same reason, keep bags and valuables out of reach and out of sight.

If you are approached by people claiming to be police, be wary. If they are not in uniform, they are probably not police but are most likely hoping to relieve you of your money and valuables. A common tactic is for a group of men in a car to show a fake police identity card and ask you to go with them to the police station. Do not get in the car; just walk away. Be prepared to run. Never lose your temper, but keep negotiating in a friendly way; in the end, they will give up.

Road scams include a group of fake police officers in an unmarked 4x4 vehicle that will pull over unsuspecting people driving alone in cars, then forcibly take them in to their vehicle, drive them out to the country, rob them of everything and leave them stranded. While the main targets have been UN staff in obvious white UN vehicles, all foreigners driving should be wary of this group or others operating like them. For general safety, you should never drive alone in a vehicle, especially after dark.

Cope
BBC World Service radio broadcast in English, French and Swahili in Kinshasa on 92.6MHz.

Embassies

 * 🇧🇪 Belgium
 * 🇧🇷 Brazil
 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇹🇩 Chad
 * 🇨🇺 Cuba
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇭 Ghana
 * 🇮🇳 India
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇳🇬 Nigeria
 * 🇿🇦 South Africa
 * 🇪🇸 Spain
 * 🇨🇭 Switzerland
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * The Chutes de Zongo waterfalls in Bas Congo are impressive
 * There are boats to Brazzaville across the river.
 * There are boats to Brazzaville across the river.