Khiva

Khiva (Uzbek: Xiva, Хива; Russian: Хива) is a city of 93,000 people (2020) in the western province of Khorezm in the Republic of Uzbekistan. Along with Samarkand and Bukhara, Khiva is an important and often overlooked historical site on what was once the Great Silk Road.

Understand
Famous for its long and brutal history as a slave trading post sandwiched in between the vast Kyzylkum and Karakum deserts, Khiva is now a quiet, sleepy oasis that awaits busloads of tourists instead of caravans of captives. It's difficult to imagine what exactly ancient Khiva was like, considering the historical areas were restored to a scrubbed and squeaky-clean look by the Soviets in the 1970s. However, the clustered array of mosques, madrassahs and tiled minarets within an area of less than 3 km give you a sense of how crowded and bustling this town must have been throughout its history.

Khiva is 35 km from the regional capital of Urgench and 5 km from the border of Turkmenistan.

Khiva is divided into two distinct sections; one being the older, museum-like Ichon-Qala or Itchan Kala (literally: within the wall) where striking examples of Islamic architecture were built over the span of 600 years; and the modern Dichon-Qala (literally: outside the wall) where both the majority of the population live and where all of the modern buildings exist, but glimpses of Khiva's greatness as a center of Islamic power still linger.

History
According to legend, Khiva was founded about 2,500 years ago when a son of Noah, Shem, discovered a well in the middle of the desert exclaimed "Khi-wa!" (which locals will take delight in roughly translating this exclamation as "sweet water"). For the next 1,000 years or so, the area was inhabited by settlements that used the nearby Amu-Darya river to irrigate agriculture.

According to the archaeologists Khiva was founded in the 5th or 6th century. As Islam spread to the area, the first major structures were built near Shem's well, and it became known as a small trading post on the Silk Road (Uzbek: Buyuk Ipak Yol'i). First written sources date from the 10th century. The Arab traveller Al Istachri mentions Khiva in his enumeration of the most important settlements in Chorezm. The Arab geographer Ibn Battuta visited Khiva in the 14th century. He praised the emir who was untiringly taking care of law and order and reported that the city was so full of people that it was almost impossible to find one's way in the crowd. It wasn't until the 16th century when Khiva was made capital of an Islamic Khanate (starting a bitter rivalry with another Khan 460 km down the Silk Road in Bukhara), that the majority of Khiva's immense architectural projects began and the town established itself as a center of power in the region. Locals will say (sometimes in hushed tones) that if Khiva didn't have a rivalry with nearby Bukhara, it would not be the significant site that it is today. In the 19th century only a strong central power was created and taxes and money were introduced. For a long period of time Khiva was one of the most important markets of slaves in Central Asia. Slavery was formally abolished during the October Revolution of 1917. Khiva with its 94 mosques and 63 mederssahs is considered as an important centre of Islam. Because of this significance, Khiva was recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1990.

Climate
Khiva almost has a two-season climate; with slivers of spring and autumn in between frigid winters and blazing hot summers. It starts to get uncomfortably cold in Khiva by November, with temperatures hovering between -10°C and 5°C. The chill usually lasts well into mid-March; just in time for the Navruz holiday. Spring usually lasts around a month and a half and is usually one of the best times to visit. Summer arrives quickly, however, with temperatures reaching as high as 45°C by August. Luckily, it's a dry heat, with negligible rainfall and humidity, so walking around the city isn't too much of a burden.

Get in
Khiva is about 1390 km from Andizhan, 470 km from Bukhara, 1370 km from Fergana, 630 km from Karshi, 740 km from Samarkand, 1270 km from Kokand, 200 km from Nukus, 750 km from Shakhrisabz, 1020 km from Tashkent and 850 km from Termez.

When travelling via the regional capital of Urgench, whether it's by air, bus, or shared taxi, then with the exception of flying where the rates are fixed (most of the time) you might be subject to ticket agents at the bus and share taxi stations charging you a bit higher for a fare because you look like a tourist. Ask a guide or local for correct information, as Uzbeks are usually willing to assist you in getting the correct price. You will, however, be expected to haggle for the price of your cab everywhere, with the unusual exception of the taxi from the Urgench bazaar to Khiva (see "by car").



By plane
Khiva is about 40 km away from Urgench Airport. Uzbekistan Airways operates twice daily flights from Tashkent (operated by RJ-85, AN-24 or YAK-40, flying time 1 hr 30 min) and a flight on Saturday (operated by B-757, flying time 1 hr 40 min, return flight on Sundays).

You can also reach Urgench on Fridays on Uzbekistan Airways via Domodedovo International Airport in Moscow.

Taxis from Urgench Airport to Khiva are about 7,000 som one way. There are plenty of taxi drivers waiting at Urgench airport but for those who object to inflated taxi fares ask the taxi driver to take you to the Yulduz supermarket, next to the Urgench bazaar. From here shared taxis regularly travel to Khiva. Taxis to the airport from Khiva can be found near the western gate of the old city for between 35,000 and 80,000 som (September, 2019).

By train
Khiva's railway station (ХИВА) is 1.25 km to the east of the Itchan Kala. In November 2018 Khiva was connected by a new 33.78-km-long railway line to Urgench. Khiva is served by diesel-powered trains until completion of the electrification of the Bukhara-Misken-Khiva railway line, after which it will also be served by high-speed Afrosiyob trains.

Train 056Ч operates the 1,036-km-long route between Tashkent's southern station and Khiva via Urgench, Bukhara and Samarkand every Tu W F and Su. The 14-hour, 28-min-long journey departs from Tashkent at 20:30 and arrives the next morning in Khiva at 10:52. Between Khiva and Tashkent train 56Ж operates M W Th and Sa, taking 16 hr 30 min. It departs at 14:28 and arrives in Tashkent's southern station at 06:58 the next day. Expect a berth in a four-bed compartment to cost 210,239 som (including commission, as of May 2019), with each passenger supplied with a sealed bag containing fresh sheets, a pillowcase and a handtowel. There is also a two-bed compartment (393,545 som) and as well as a cheaper dormitory style sleeper option (145,175 som).

A service operates the 450-km route between Khiva and Bukhara, via Urgench on F and Su, departing at 08:57 and arriving in Bukhara at 14:50. In the opposite direction a train departs Bukhara at 12:25 arriving at Khiva at 17:51. A train schedule is available from uzrailpass.uz. Khiva is listed as ХИВА (УТИ) on the website.

Trains are clean, with good on-board services.

You can purchase the tickets from the official Uzbekistan Railways website and pay for it with a Visa (only) credit card. It is recommended to do this in advance, since tickets do sell out. Once you have made the payment, you will receive a PDF confirmation, which you must exchange for tickets in the Tashkent passenger rail station "KACCA" (cachier) building.

By bus
If you're really budgeting your cash, you can catch a bus to Urgench from the Hippodrome station in Tashkent. The journey takes around 20 to 21 hours, depending on the state of the bus. While the bus costs about 7,000 som it is longer than the train and you'll be sitting in a cramped space without toilets (the driver decides when to make a pit stop) and minimal ventilation (forget about air conditioning). Bring enough food and water to share with others although the bus does stop for at least one meal break in the desert. Don't be afraid to use your foreigner status to maximum advantage and ask for toilet stops if you need them (men on one side of the bus, women on the other) or a quick desert stop for photos

There are daily busses from Bukhara to Urgench, leaving from Bukhara Avtovoksal. The buses have no air conditioning. The journey time is about 8 hours and the price about 10,000 som one way. There is no fixed timetable, the buses leave, when all seats are occupied. In April 2012, the road between Bukhara and Urgench was in fairly poor condition and the bus journey can take up to 10 hours. Uzbek buses are not permitted to drive after 22:00 so a bus leaving after 12:00 may have to make an overnight stop before reaching Bukhara, which will be at a restaurant. Passengers can sleep on the bus.

Collective taxis from Urgench to Khiva leave from Urgench Bazaar near the Dynamo Stadium. The taxis leave when all seats are occupied and the price is about 1,000 som one way. Taxis will drop you at the Northern Gate of Khiva Old Town.

There is one bus per day, at noon, going directly from Khiva to Tashkent through Bukhara and Samarkand. Leaving from Koy-Darvoza gate (GPS 41°22'37.1"N, 060°22'15.8"E), which is on the east part of Ichon-Qala (just exit through the East gate and keep on straight until you reach another gate). 35,000 som to Bukhara, 40,000 som to Samarkand, 50,000 som to Tashkent (Sep 2012).

By car
Inter-city "taxi" services are essentially a collection of informal drivers who wait to fill up their cars with passengers and then drive them off to their destinations. They usually charge per passenger; however, you can buy all the seats in a car (typically 1 in the front and 3 in the back) if you're willing to spend the cash. From Bukhara, the next closest Silk Road site, the 460-km trip in a shared taxi should cost 60,000-80,000 som per person (Sep 2012). The price can sometimes depend on the type of vehicle you're negotiating for, with Daewoo Ticos (similar to Ford Fiesta) costing less and Daewoo Nexia and Matiz brands (similar to Honda Accord) costing a bit more.

One you reach Urgench, you can either negotiate for a local taxi to take you directly to Khiva, which usually costs about 8000 som for the entire car. A cheaper way is to negotiate a ride to the western side of the Urgench Bazaar (inner-city trips shouldn't cost you more than 1500 som at the most). There you'll find the official Khiva taxi stand, which is a row of Daewoo Tico and Matiz brand vehicles all in a line. On average, it takes between 10-15 minutes for a car to fill up and the cost is about 1000 som per person, flat.

Trolleybus: An interesting (and cheap) way to get to Khiva from Urgench is via the trolleybus, which you can pick up near the Urgench Bazaar. At 700 som, it's a bargain and it allows you to see the countryside between Urgench and Khiva at a snail's pace. It will also drop you off right in front of the northern gate of the Ichon-Kala with the rest of the taxicabs. Trolleybusses leave Urgench every 30 minutes during daytime and the journey takes about 60 minutes.

Get around
There are no taxis in the Ichon Qala, however it is so compact it's easy to take a leisurely stroll.

Outside the walls, Khiva is still a very walkable city. You can access the main bazaar, either through the Caravanserai through the Ichon-Qala east gate or you can walk around the Ichon-Qala walls on the north side until you see the produce sellers sitting near the western wall. A few of the better authentic Uzbek restaurants lie within a half-kilometre of the Ichon-Qala walls as well as some great beer stands. If you want to explore the residential northern and western ends of town, flag down an informal "taxi" and negotiate a fare, which should run between 1,500 and 3,000 som per hour.


 * Toprak-Kala
 * Koj-Krylgan-Kala
 * Ayaz-Kala

Talk
You'll find English spoken inside the Ichon-Qala at hotels and through a handful of the guides at the main tourism bureau. In the Dichon-Qala, you'll be hard-pressed to find anyone speaking English, unless you run into some local school children who want to practice their skills on you from their English classes.

Because Khiva is in the Khorezm province, the locals speak a dialect of Uzbek that is actually closer to Turkmen called "Khorezmcha". If you've been feverishly practicing your Uzbek elsewhere in Uzbekistan and now find that you can't understand a word of what a local Khivan is saying to you, don't worry; they may not be able to understand you either. In that case, try falling back on Russian.

Ichon-Qala
The old town Ichon-Qala (Itchan Kala) covers an area of about 26 hectares. It is rectangular in plan. Entrance tickets are sold from a booth outside the West Gate. Tickets cover entry to all of the museums and buildings inside the city (excluding the two Mausoleums). The ticket price is 200,000 som (as of February 2024) and the ticket is valid for two full days. Note, at the North Gate or the South Gate there's no ticket check, but once you want to enter a museum you need to show your ticket.

Itchan Kala was the site of the khan's palace. High officials and clergy and rich merchants used to live here. This is why we find the most important buildings in the Itchan Kala. The ordinary people, small merchants, craftsmen and peasants lived in Dishan Kala. There were wells in Itchan Kala, whereas people had to draw drinking water from the irrigation channels in Dishan Kala. In the north western part of Itchan Kala is the well, where according to the legend the city was founded by Sem.



Buy
There are many souvenir vendors in Khiva and they all will want to sell something to you, trying to attract your attention with some knowledge of English. Souvenirs might be more expensive than in Samarkand and Bukhara, but you can bargain quite a lot and get some very good deals.

A good place to buy is the UNESCO-sponsored silk workshop in Qqozi Kalon Medressa. It sells unique silk handcrafts. Although they might be more expensive than in other places, you support the workers there directly:

Drink
Tap water is generally not potable. Carefully check bottom of the bottles of water for any deposits otherwise you can buy counterfeit bottled water.

Sleep
Most of the hotels lie within the Ichon-Qala, with a few exceptions. Homestays are a good idea if you happen to be on a budget and it's a great way to meet locals and experience the almost overwhelming hospitality that is unique to Uzbekistan and Central Asia. If you're coming with a tour group, you're guaranteed a spot in one of the more "upscale" tourist hotels.

Stay safe
Because of Khiva's importance as a tourist town, most of the staff and locals will go out of their way to keep you safe. In and around the Ichon-Qala the biggest risk is being asked by local children for gifts like pens, in which they will probably be shooed away by a stern adult. Take the usual precautions of watching your valuables and you'll be fine.

In the Dichon-Qala, especially in the late evening or at night, you may run the risk of being harassed by local drunk men. However, these incidents are rare and the perpetrators are easily scared away with a few stern words (in any language). Aside from the main road, Khiva gets very dark at night, so carry a torch if exploring the town in the evening or having dinner outside the city walls.

Take the usual precautions when drinking from local water sources, but make sure to stay hydrated, especially in the summer. The heat bouncing off the mud walls can make Khiva feel like a broiler sometimes, and you can easily run the risk of heat exhaustion.

Go next

 * Bukhara - Once the historic rival of Khiva, Bukhara boasts an impressive old city with lots of interesting alleyways, buildings, and shopping. Check out the Jewish Quarter, one of the last bastions of the Judaism in Central Asia, and the towering Kalon Minaret, where the Khan of Bukhara executed prisoners by tossing them out of the top window.
 * Nukus - The capital of the nominally autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan on the remote frontier of Uzbekistan. Nukus looks like a planned Soviet city (it was host the Red Army's Chemical Ressearch Institute) but is also home to the Nukus Museum of Art, commonly referred to as the Savitsky Museum, which houses the second largest collection of Russian avant-garde artwork in the world, second only to the Russian Museum in Saint Petersburg. A rare gem of a museum in the middle of practically nowhere and a must-see.
 * The Aral Sea and Moynaq - If ecological disasters interest you, then checking out the Aral Sea should be high on your list. Once the 4th largest saline body of water in the world, the Aral Sea has steadily diminished over the last 50 years due to past Soviet agricultural planning and current water management practices by several Central Asian countries. Moynaq, once a thriving fishing town, now sits about 250 km from the current coastline and is a haunting reminder of the environmental devastation.
 * Urgench - The capital of Khorezm doesn't have much to offer in the way of sights, but it is a great launching point for trips to Khiva, Nukus, and the surrounding areas. There are a few old fortresses in the deserts surrounding Urgench as well as a few ancient Zoroastrian archaeological sites.