Khartoum



Khartoum (Arabic: الخرطوم Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue and White Niles merge to form the Nile. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms. The Blue Nile flows between Khartoum and Bahri, the White Nile between Khartoum and Omdurman, and the merged Nile between Bahri and Omdurman. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile, known as Al-Mogran, lies just north of the bridge between Khartoum and Omdurman.

Khartoum proper is the seat of the Sudanese government and is the largest of the three cities. The older part of the city lies beside the White Nile while the newer parts, such as Al-Amarat and Khartoum Two, spread out to the south, across the railway line and the ring road, and around the airport runway. The city, both the old part and its newer extensions, is laid out mostly in a grid. Omdurman has a more Middle Eastern atmosphere with maze-like streets and is home to the huge Souq Omdurman. Bahri is largely industrial and residential.



By plane
Sudan's national carrier Sudan Airways links Khartoum and several African and regional capitals, and with Sudan's domestic airports at Port Sudan, Nyala, El-Fashir, Malakal, Juba, Dongola, Wadi Halfa and El-Obeid.

Go early as the airport can get a bit chaotic. Be prepared for long waits and queue cutting. Immigration checks and other security checks can also take a long time. No departure tax should be paid anymore, as it's included in a ticket price.

There is a bank facility to change money open during the night when there are flights.

Getting to town: the airport is located close to the city in Al-Amarat. Taxi fare from Khartoum airport to city was a fixed SDG 100 in 2015. You can also walk out to the main road about 200 m from the airport terminal and catch minibuses that cruise along the road. Alternatively you can book a metered taxi.

By bus
The chaotic Souq al-Shaabi used to be the main bus terminal for long distance south-bound buses in Khartoum, but a new terminal (Meena al Barre) has been built which is more orderly. Buses leave for Port Sudan, Wad Medani, Kassala, El-Obeid, Karima (8 hr, SGD 275), Gedarif (6 hr, SGD 275) and other cities. Again, there are no buses to southern Sudan.

Buses from Aswan travel 24 hours, 450 EGP.

Buses to Atbara depart from (also known as Shendi Bus Station).

By train
Rail services to Khartoum are limited, but investment have brought hopes of a rejuvenation of train travel. There is the daily Nile Express from Atbara as well as services three times per day from Wad Madani. Older, more infrequent trains run from Port Sudan, Wadi Halfa - for connections with ferries from Egypt - and even Nyala. There main station is.

By car
The main tarred road goes south from Khartoum to Wad Medani then east to Gedaref (for the Ethiopian border at Gallabat), Kassala (for the Eritrean border, which is closed) and then to Port Sudan. South from Khartoum, a road also goes to El-Obeid, which then continues west towards the Chadian border via Darfur, which is a bit dangerous to use. From the north, the road comes in from Wadi Halfa via Atbara.

There are no road links to southern Sudan. The only option is to fly.

By boat
There are no boat services along the Nile to destinations outside Khartoum.

Get around
Khartoum is both easy and difficult to get around. It is easy in that much of the city is laid out on a grid, with long straight roads and the airport and Nile as easy reference places. It is difficult in that the city (or indeed the 3 cities) are very spread out, making walking a long and tiring option.

Maps are hard to come by, but Google Earth offers some good high-resolution images.

By taxi
These come in three varieties; bright yellow and often beaten up Toyota Corollas Model 1977, small 6-seater minivans, and more modern metered taxis.

Fair "foreigner" prices for taxis are roughly: SDG 17.50 plus SDG 4.61 per km.

Crossing the river will usually double the price.

Most taxi drivers speak no English, can't read maps, and often can't read Arabic either; they often even have little idea about Khartoum's geography, especially about other parts of the city to where you pick him up.



By minibus
Minibuses are the cheapest way to get around Khartoum, especially between the three cities. There are easily thousands of minibuses and seeing all of them gather near the Great Mosque and Souk al-Arabi is a sight to behold. They are however quite complicated to use. None of them bear destination signs and you will have to be able to speak a little Arabic with their conductors to determine which minibus to take. They are also always packed to the brim. Fares are SDG 3-5 (June 2017).

Most of the minibuses leave from the square near the Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir) or nearby in Khartoum proper.

By car
Describing Khartoum's traffic as chaotic is a bit of an understatement. The economic boom has put many more cars on the road, although driving attitudes have not changed, resulting in almost comical chaos at intersections. As Khartoum is laid out in a grid, there are many intersections for cars from all directions to barge in to fight for space. Having said that, the slow speed of vehicles ensures that they are very few major accidents, at least in the city. If you are not used to such driving conditions, it is better to resort to taxis.

Car hire is available and costs a bit above the African average. However if you want to head off in to the desert the costs mount further, as the 100 km is standard, and then there is an additional charge per kilometre. Fuel costs around SDG 27 (US$4.20) per litre (Nov 2016). ‘Limousine’ is the Arabic word for car hire – try along Airport Road or Ibed Khetim Road (east of the airport) for car hire places.

By three-wheeled taxis
Called "bajaj" (like in India) or "raksha", they are cheaper than taxis but more expensive than buses so less than SDG 5 per trip. They are best used for short trips within each of Khartoum's three cities. It is better to use taxis or minibuses if you have to cross the Nile to travel between the three cities.

By boat
There are no ferry services between the three cities as they are well connected by road bridges.

There is a ferry service between Khartoum proper and Tuti Island, a rural islet in the middle of the Blue Nile. In Khartoum, boats leave from the river bank along Nile Street opposite the Friendship Hall to the west of the city center. A ferry also runs between Tuti and Omdurman (except on Fridays)

Khartoum (الخرطوم)

 * Nile Street or Shari'a Al-Nilشارع النيل الخرطوم: Probably the prettiest street in Khartoum. With the Blue Nile on one side, the street is lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even a hotel, the Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum. The Presidential Palace, also fronting the Blue Nile, is a pretty building but you will not be allowed to walk in front of it - the guards will ask you to cross the road and proceed behind and around the building. You will also see the modern side of Khartoum along this street - the egg-shaped, Libyan-owned Al-Fateh Tower; Chinese-built Friendship Hall. The National Museum is also along Nile Street. The road is tree-lined most of the way (except towards the west) and has a sidewalk, so walking is quite pleasant. Many people sit on the concrete walls along the river.
 * The Changing of the Guard: This is a ceremony held on the first Friday of every month, where the Black Guard and the White Guard of the Presidential Palace swap over. The ceremony is performed near the South Gate of the palace.
 * The Changing of the Guard: This is a ceremony held on the first Friday of every month, where the Black Guard and the White Guard of the Presidential Palace swap over. The ceremony is performed near the South Gate of the palace.



Clubs
There are many professional and international clubs spread around the three cities. Providing for sport, cultural activities or simply a place to meet, they are a lively remnant of British influence.


 * Greek club. Khartoum 2, entrance off Mak Nimir Ave. The hideout of Sudan's Greek community, it is open to the public and offers sports facilities (tennis, volleyball, basketball, football, running), a swimming pool (entrance fee SDG 30) and basic food and drinks.
 * Coptic club.
 * German club. Nothing especially German, a basketball court, a garden in the shade of trees and a swimming pool. It also serves as a hotel.
 * Indian club. Omdurman. The center of the capital's large Indian community social life, it organizes events for all important Indian festivals.
 * A wander around Tuti island is highly recommended if you want to see green rather than the brown of Khartoum. If you are heading to Omdurman, a good way of unwinding after the chaos of the souq is to catch the ferry across to Tuti from Omdurman (except Fridays) or take the Tuti Suspension Bridge. Aim for around 17:00-18:00 to enjoy Tuti in the early evening.
 * A Nile cruise, several boats moored by Tuti Bridge are available for cruises. A cruise on some of the smaller boats can cost you as little as SDG 15.

Cultural centers

 * Centre Culturel Français. Downtown, Ali Dinar St. Offers French courses, Sudanese Arabic courses, a library and cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: info@ccfkrt.org.
 * Goethe Institute. Downtown, Al Mak Nimir St. Offers German courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: info@khartum.goethe.org or http://www.goethe.de/khartum.
 * British Council. Downtown, Abu Sinn St. Offers English courses, cultural events (music, art, literature, conferences, movies). Ask for the program at: info@sd.britishcouncil.org or http://www.britishcouncil.org/africa-sd-contact-us.htm.
 * Iranian Cultural Center. Al Amarat, corner of Airport Rd and St 27.

In the evening

 * Evening tea on Nile Avenue. With the extension of Nile Avenue to Manshia complete, the stretch of road between Mak Nimir and Manshia bridges has become the place to be of Khartoum's evening life. Innumerable tea ladies cater to the needs of the crowd enjoying the grass while watching the road and the river.

Music

 * Concerts. The Sudanese music scene is active. Artists of the moment play live in clubs, mostly on weekend evenings. Look for the Arabic posters that dot the city or ask the locals.
 * Weddings. It is common for Sudanese to hire star musicians to perform one or two of their favourite piece at wedding ceremonies. The footage of the performance usually ends up as an unofficial video clip on the Sudanese TV channels.
 * Creative events. Khartoum youth and amateur scene can be spotted at one of the numerous and often changing cultural events. Whether Wapi (British Council), Makaan, Space or Khartoum Open Mic', they offer a scene for young musicians, hip hoppers, dancers, slammers and poets. Most accurate information is to be found on Facebook.
 * Khartoum International Music Festival.

Movies

 * Cinemas. The last commercial cinemas closed in 2009 but the open air buildings of the Coliseum (Souk al Arabi), Halfaya and Watania(Khartoum North) or Watania (Omdurman) can still be spotted. Afra Mall movie theaters still shows movies, mainly Bollywood or Egyptian.
 * Film festivals. The European Union and the Embassy of Venezuela organize yearly film festivals. The French Cultural Center offers free weekly projections as does occasionally the Goethe Institute.

Buy
Most shopping is still done in street markets or souqs. The souqs here are not as attractive those in other Middle Eastern countries but are still interesting enough for a glimpse of Sudanese economics. And you can certainly buy everything you need, including handicrafts if you are a tourist, from these markets. Prices are not amazingly low due to transport costs for imported (mainly Chinese) goods, but cheaper than in Afra Mall or proper shops. Upmarket, Khartoum has only one shopping mall with a supermarket, several shops and food outlets.

Khartoum

 * Souq Arabi In the city centre, this is your classical chaotic market teeming with people. The market is divided in to several sections, each focussing on a certain product. There is even one block devoted to gold, although it certainly looks less sophisticated and organised than its counterpart in Dubai. However, this souq is a bit lacking in term of handicrafts and fresh foodstuff. You are better off going to Souq Omdurman (see below) for handicrafts.

Eat
Khartoum has a good sprinkling of restaurants, with new ones popping up every couple of months – other than restaurants attached to hotels there is little quality eating to be had in Khartoum’s city centre. Amarat hosts the majority of the better eateries, although Ridyah and Khartoum 2 also have some places. Omdurman and Barhi have a light sprinkling of simple restaurants. All restaurants have about 15% government tax and 3-14% service charge.

Drink
It's best to prepare yourself to be alcohol-free for your stay: there are places serving 'special tea' dotted around and non-alcoholic beers are available, but in general it's more hassle than it's worth to track down alcohol during a short visit. For long-termers, however, the market does exist - via diplomatic bags and other routes... apparently.

Sleep
A 5% tourism tax and 15% VAT may well be added to your bill - Khartoum's hotels are inconsistent in telling you about these taxes in advance, and (especially for cheaper hotels) inconsistent in paying this money to the tax authorities. Ask if there are any hidden extras before booking.

Registration and other legal requirements
All foreigners are required to register within three days of arrival.

To register, go to the at Shari'a Al Sahafa Zat, Khartoum, close to Sudan University for Science and Technology, with passport sized photos required and SDG 540 (as of November 2018), US$ not accepted. Registration can also be done at the airport departure terminal. The whole process takes less than 10 minutes.

The travel permit and the photo permit are no longer required as of 2018.

Embassies and consulates

 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇪🇬 Egypt
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇲🇾 Malaysia
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇺🇸 United States

Go next

 * Sabaloga Gorge: This gorge is also known as the 6th Cataract. It is 80-95 km (50 to 60 miles) north of Khartoum and can be reached in about 2½ hours.  It is essential that a 4-wheel drive vehicle be used, and it is wise, as is true in all cases in traveling outside Khartoum, to travel with at least two vehicles.  On arrival, visitors can stroll around a Sudanese village and inspect Ansar forts that once bombarded steamers on their way to relieve General Gordon.  It is advisable to take this trip in the cooler months.
 * Jebel Awlia: This dam was completed in 1937 and is 40-50 km (25 to 30 miles) south of Khartoum on the Jebel Awlia road. A 4-wheel drive vehicle is not required for this trip as the road is paved to the dam.  However, if you intend to cross the dam and travel on the other side, a 4 WD will be needed. The area around the dam itself has a number of large trees and flat grassy land which are ideal for picnics.   For those interested in bird watching, there are numerous birds to be seen, such as pelican, herons, kingfisher, wader, and plovers.  One of the fringe benefits of a trip to Jebel Awlia is a short drive up to the dam.  Here the fishermen sell their catch, which they have just brought in.  The prices are about half of what they might be in Khartoum.  Bring along suitable wrapping and ice and coolers for any fish purchased.
 * Meroe: This site is approximately 200 km north of Khartoum. There is also a hotel in Shendi (very basic) where one could be based.  The trip should be arranged with a tour agency unless someone in the party really knows his/her way around the desert tracks.  There are some paved roads to Meroe but you do have to drive off the main road on to some sandy areas. Four-wheel driver vehicles are a necessity for this trip.  The Pharaonic influence left its imprint in the hieroglyphic language, the religion of Amon, and  building of the pyramids, which were a simplified version of the Egyptian model with no rooms or corridors.  The Greek and Roman architectural influence is evident in the pillars of temples and the classical forms of the statues of men and women.  The Meroe ruins are a four-hour drive from Khartoum.  But there are various other sites in the area, so a two or three day trip should be contemplated, and a knowledgeable guide is essential for the best understanding of the ruins.  National Geographic’s book Splendors of the Past provides excellent background for such a trip.
 * Dinder National Park: (12°19'N 034°47'E) The Dinder National Park is said to be one of the most unique in the world. It is totally “unorganized,” and the visitor can truly see game in its natural state.  The site is about 480 km (300 miles) south of Khartoum on the Blue Nile near the Roseires Dam.  Travel by 4-wheel transportation from there to the park is recommended.  Inside the park there is a small tourist area consisting of round, grass thatched huts.  Inside these huts are beds, a chair and a table.  The huts are burned and rebuilt every year after the flood season.  This park is only accessible for a few months of the year from December through May.  It is essential that the visitor traveling to Dinder make thorough preparations for the trip.
 * The Red Sea Area - [Port Sudan]: The Red Sea is noted for its magnificent under water diving, the clearness of its water and the variety of marine species.  Visitors generally reach the area by flying Sudan Air.  Daily, one hour and a half flights are available, but you may drive on paved road to Port Sudan in about 12–14 hours.  Travelers should be completely self-sufficient with all fuel as well as food and water.  It is about 815 km (510 miles) to Port Sudan.  Visitors may want to stay at the Red Sea Hotel.  This hotel is booked for most of the year, and it is necessary to have reservations confirmed in advance.  The Hilton Hotel has opened in Port Sudan. It is located about half an hour drive from the airport, along the harbor.  Outdoor swimming pool, three restaurants, and a gymnasium, are some of the facilities available.  For more enquiries, call 31139810 or fax 31131183.
 * Erkowit: This area is 39 km southwest of Port Sudan, and it is the only developed summer resort in Sudan. The altitude is  above sea level.
 * Jebel Barkal Unesco World Heritage site - [Northern state]:Jebel Barkal or Gebel Barkal (Arabic: جبل بركل) is a very small mountain located some 400 km north of Khartoum, in Karima town in Northern State in Sudan, on a large bend of the Nile River, in the region called Nubia. Around 1450 BC, the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose III extended his empire to that region and considered Gebel Barkal its southern limit. There, he campaigned near the city of Napata that, about 300 years later, became the capital of the independent kingdom of Kush. The 25th Dynasty Nubian king Piye later greatly enlarged the New Kingdom Temple of Amun in this city and erected his Year 20 Victory stela within it.

The ruins around Gebel Barkal include at least 13 temples and 3 palaces, that were for the first described by European explorers in the 1820s, although only in 1916 were archeological excavations started by George Reisner under a joint expedition of Harvard University and the Museum of Fine Arts of Boston. From the 1970s, explorations continued by a team from the University of Rome La Sapienza, under the direction of Sergio Donadoni, that was joined by another team from the Boston Museum, in the 1980s, under the direction of Timothy Kendall. The larger temples, such that of Amun, are even today considered sacred to the local population.

For these reasons, the mountain, together with the historical city of Napata and other ancient sites, were considered by UNESCO, in 2003, World Heritage Sites.

Buses leave daily from Khartoum to Kerma, however the most comfortable and convenient way of getting there is by car. The route is tarmacked, but you will still require the best part of a day to get there.