Kharga Oasis

Kharga (Arabic الخارجة) is an oasis in the Western Desert of Egypt.

Towns and villages

 * (Arabic: الخارجة‎) – The main town and transport hub. It is entirely modern but has visitor facilities, and the district is dotted with ancient sites, the best being the Temple of Hibis and the necropolis of El Bagawat. References on this page to Kharga mean this town and vicinity unless "Kharga oasis" is specified.
 * (Arabic: باريس‎) – The other town, 86 km south and separated by a strip of desert. The main sight is the Roman-era temple at Qasr Dush, and there's also the weird modern shell of the Hassan Fathy village. Baris lacks facilities so most visitors day-trip from Kharga.
 * – 8 km north of Baris is one of several 20th C villages across Egypt created by re-imagining traditional adobe styles, under the tutelage of architect Fathy (1900-1989). Construction began in the 1960s but halted on the outbreak of war in 1967; the project was abandoned and the buildings were never used.
 * – A village with a Roman adobe ruin.
 * – A settlement 35 km north of Kharga town, with a Roman fort. You will need an off-road vehicle.

Understand
Kharga is the largest of the five western oases, 160 km long and from 20 km to 80 km wide. The main town is also called Kharga, separated by a desert strip from Baris to the south. The reason to visit is the antiquities just north of Kharga town, and the string of Roman forts set up to control Darb El Arbayin, the "Forty Days Road" bringing gold and ivory from Africa into Egypt.

Like the other western oases, the climate is hot desert, 40+°C summer and 10°C in winter. There is zero rainfall and all the oasis supply is "fossil water" extracted from the aquifer, a non-renewable resource.

Get in


Kharga has an airport but no flights, and trains no longer run here. The old narrow-gauge railway from the Nile valley was replaced in 1989 by a standard-gauge track all the way to Safaga on the Red Sea coast, intended to export phosphates from Kharga's deposits. But by the time it was completed the price of phosphates had dropped, the deposits were never mined, and the new line was abandoned. The track still lies alongside the highway between Kharga and Baris, and in parts along the Baris-Luxor road.

By bus
Buses run at least daily from Asyut, which is on the main Cairo-Luxor road and railway. They set off at 8AM and take 3-4 hr to Kharga. Some continue to Dakhla Oasis, another 3-4 hr. Along the road 2-3 hr out from Asyut, admire the melon field of Wadi Battish - the desert sand is dotted with limestone footballs or geodes. After another 40 km the road tops Kharga Pass to descend into the oasis.

By road
There is a direct highway from Luxor to Baris, at the south end of the oasis. There is no public transport along this route but it is a good highway for taxis and private vehicles.

A highway leads south from the oasis for mile upon aching desert mile, following the ancient caravan trail towards Darfur, before despairing of further progress and looping back north to Dakhla oasis. There is no crossing point into Sudan.

On foot
The principal sights of Kharga town are within a long walk on a cool day, but you do not want to be weary before you start, and then there is the getting back.

By taxi
Arrange a taxi to take you around the antiquities, the driver will know which dusty unsignposted turn-off to head down.

Several sights need a vehicle, and some are only for off-road vehicles with a guide.

By bus
Buses and minibuses ply between Kharga and Baris, taking an hour.

See



 * Seen on a hill east of the Temple of Hibis is the larger of the two temples of Nadura. They are both scrappy, so that is probably close enough.
 * North of the temple heading towards the Necropolis are remnants of a Roman Christian settlement at Ain el-Kharab and the monastery of Ain Gallal.
 * North of the temple heading towards the Necropolis are remnants of a Roman Christian settlement at Ain el-Kharab and the monastery of Ain Gallal.


 * Another km north of the Necropolis are monastic ruins of Ain Muṣṭafa Qashiff and Deir el Bagawat.
 * A further 2 km north is a collection of ruins around Ain Sa'af, Tahunat Hawa (with a tall tower), Burg el Hammam and Gebel el Teir (which has cave carvings).
 * A further 2 km north is a collection of ruins around Ain Sa'af, Tahunat Hawa (with a tall tower), Burg el Hammam and Gebel el Teir (which has cave carvings).




 * Other Roman forts to the north are at Muhammed Tuleib, El Sumeira and Qasr el Gibb.
 * Other Roman forts to the north are at Muhammed Tuleib, El Sumeira and Qasr el Gibb.























Do
Dig deeper into the subject. This page only covers sights of interest to the casual visitor, but far more is known, on top of the many unknowns that are sure to lie unexcavated. For more, click on the left sidebar to reach the German version, which runs to 36 pages and a level of detail to make all but a desert-hardened archaeologist break out in hives. For entirely different approaches to Egyptian scholarship, read The Egyptologists by Kingsley Amis and Robert Conquest (Random House 1965), or any "Oriental" murder mystery by Agatha Christie (who married a renowned archaeologist and traveled widely in these parts), or just hum the tunes from Aida.

Buy
There is a line of small stores for basics in the centre of Kharga and to a lesser extent along main drag in Baris. You do not come here for shopping, which is why the traders of antiquity just rested their camels before plodding onward to the fleshpots and markets of the Nile.



Eat
Kharga has a cluster of simple places in town centre all with similar fare. They will be delighted to see a Westerner, especially anyone with Arabic beyond "salaam" and with ready cash. Baris has a handful of similar places. There is nothing along the badlands roads beyond (the clue's in the word "desert"), so eat it all up and say shukran.

Restaurants mostly open only for dinner, and open around 19:00.








 * Hotel Sol Y Mar Pioneers also has a restaurant, they serve alcohol.

Drink
Mint tea is always a good choice, any time of day.



Sleep
Kharga is short on accommodation for being the biggest city in the New Valley and the surrounded by a wealth of archaeological sites. The cheaper places are very barebones and should be considered only if you really must save money.

Mid-range




Stay safe
See the warning on the Iraq article for information about the security situation.

Connect
There are four main carriers in Egypt. Reckon to get a signal for a call within 5 km of the two towns, but not 4G. Beyond the towns, zero—the desert is a cruel place.

Go next

 * Back to Asyut returns you to the Nile valley and thence to Cairo.
 * A direct highway cuts across the desert from Baris to magnificent Luxor. You need private transport to reach it.
 * 200 km west of Kharga is the oasis of Dakhla, reached by daily bus. From there you can journey through the other oases of the Western Desert to the Med coast.
 * Not Sudan or Libya alas. You may not cross these nearby borders.