Kelso (Scotland)

Kelso is a small market town in the Borders region of southern Scotland, with a population of 6900 in 2020. Its name probably derives from Calk Heugh - the "chalk outcrop" which its two rivers cut through. These are the Teviot and Tweed, joining here, both famed for salmon fishing. The town grew up around its Abbey, whose monks farmed the fertile valleys. Its town centre is of a style common in northern France and the Low Countries but rare in Scotland, with a large market square, and Flemish-style buildings. The main reasons to visit are the Abbey and Floors Castle.

Difficult to believe now, but the tiny village of Roxburgh five miles south was once an important settlement, and indeed briefly the capital of Scotland.

Get in
By plane: the nearest airport is Edinburgh 50 miles (81 km) northwest, with a good choice of flights. Newcastle Airport is 62 miles southeast.

By train: the nearest railway stations are Tweedbank (17 miles west), terminus of the Borders Railway from Edinburgh, and Berwick-upon-Tweed (25 miles east) on the East Coast Mainline from London Kings Cross to Newcastle and Edinburgh.

By bus: Borders Bus 51 / 52 runs every two hours daily from Edinburgh along the A68, via the Royal Infirmary, Dalkeith, Lauder, Earlston, and St Boswells to Kelso and Jedburgh.

Bus 67 runs every two hours daily from Berwick-upon-Tweed west via Coldstream, Kelso, St Boswells and Melrose to Galashiels, the Borders transport hub. Don't take Bus 60, which runs further north via Greenlaw.

By car or bike from the south follow A1 to Berwick-upon-Tweed then take A689 via Coldstream. From the north follow A68, then either A697 and A6089 past Mellerstain, or A699 from St Boswells.

Get around
The Abbey and Floors Castle are in town, and Roxburgh Castle is only a one mile walk. There's no bus along the road to Mellerstain House.

See

 * Kelso Square has well preserved 18th- and 19th-century architecture reminiscent of the low countries.
 * Duns village 17 miles north has the Jim Clark Museum, see Berwick-upon-Tweed.
 * is the shell of a 16th-century turret. It's on A6105 by the village of Gordon and free to admire 24 hours.
 * is a 12th / 13th century bastion of the Hume family, but the walls were only added in the 17th. There's no public access in 2022.
 * Duns village 17 miles north has the Jim Clark Museum, see Berwick-upon-Tweed.
 * is the shell of a 16th-century turret. It's on A6105 by the village of Gordon and free to admire 24 hours.
 * is a 12th / 13th century bastion of the Hume family, but the walls were only added in the 17th. There's no public access in 2022.

Do

 * Golf: Kelso Golf Club is just north of town, Schloss Roxburgh (see "Sleep") is four miles south.
 * Rugby: Kelso RFC were promoted in 2023 and now play in the Premiership, Scotland's top amateur tier. They play at Poynder Park north side of town and host the Kelso Sevens tournament in May, with the next probably on Sa 4 May 2024, tbc.
 * Civic Week is held in July with horse riding, sports competitions, pipe bands and general hoo-hah in mid-July.
 * Border Union Show is a large agricultural show, held since 1813, at Springwood Show Ground (aka Borders Events Centre). It's on the last weekend in July with livestock judging, funfair and craft, food and drink stalls; held in late July. Border Union also organises the Championship Dog Show in June, same venue.
 * Border Union Show is a large agricultural show, held since 1813, at Springwood Show Ground (aka Borders Events Centre). It's on the last weekend in July with livestock judging, funfair and craft, food and drink stalls; held in late July. Border Union also organises the Championship Dog Show in June, same venue.

Buy

 * Sainsbury's is the main supermarket, south side of town at Maxwellheugh roundabout, open daily 08:00-22:00.
 * Kelso Pottery at 5 The Knowes sells studio pottery.
 * A Hume Country Clothing for menswear is at 46 The Square.

Eat

 * Cheap eats in town centre are Ozkans Grill, China Red, The Cobbles, Lemon & Thyme, and Kelso Tandoori.
 * The Contented Vine is an Italian restat aurant 60 Horsemarket, open M-Th 6-9PM, F-Su 5-9PM.

Drink

 * Rutherford's Micropub on The Square is open M-Th noon-10PM, F Sa noon-11PM.
 * Kelso Gin distillery is at Ancrum two miles north of Jedburgh.

Sleep

 * The Old Priory on Woodmarket is an elegant B&B open Feb-Dec.
 * The Old Priory on Woodmarket is an elegant B&B open Feb-Dec.

Connect
As of March 2022, Kelso and its approach roads have 4G from all UK carriers, but with lots of dead spots. 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

 * Dryburgh and Melrose Abbeys are a few miles west, and Jedburgh Abbey is a few miles south.
 * St Abb's Head is a dramatic headland on the Berwickshire cliffs.
 * Edinburgh to the north is a must-see.