Kathmandu/Thamel and West Kathmandu

Thamel and West Kathmandu is in Kathmandu and covers the backpacker area of Thamel, Swayambhu, Durbar Square, and Freak Street.

Understand
Thamel is the backpacking area of Kathmandu, and is a maze of alleys crammed with handicraft shops, guest houses, and cafes - since October 2017, the core area of the district is traffic-free. Swayambhu is a famous Buddhist monastery located on a hill overlooking the city, while Durbar Square is the ancient heart of Kathmandu and home to many Hindu temples and traditional Newari buildings.

Thamel
A taxi from Tribhuvan International Airport to Thamel is around Nrs800 (more if pre-paid), and the journey takes around 20 minutes.(July 2024)

From Boudha and Patan, take a local bus or microbus to the Ratna Park/Kanthipath area. From there either walk north (twenty minutes) or take a second bus up the ring road to north Thamel.

From Pokhara, both public and tourist buses make stops on the Banasthali Ring Road or on Pushpalal path/Swayambhu Marg northwest of Thamel, from where you can get a local bus to near Thamel

Swayambhu
From Boudha, buses depart from opposite Boudha Gate. The journey, which mostly follows the ring road, takes around 45 minutes and costs Nrs40. Swayambhu is not the last stop, and so look out for a row of stupas on the left. This marks the stop for the monastery. (July 2024)

It's a 30–minute–walk from Thamel to the monastery. It is not difficult, but it is a little confusing, and so you'll need to keep checking with locals that you are on the right road.

Temples and shrines

 * Saraswati Mandir, Thamel Amrit Marg. A Hindu temple
 * Sankateswori Bagwati Mandir, Thamel Marg. A Hindu temple
 * Saraswati Temple, Manjushree Marg (मञ्जुश्री मार्ग) (Western Part of Swayambhunath Complex).
 * Jame Mosque, Durbar Marg
 * Kashmiri Mosque, Durbar Marg
 * Saraswati Mandir, Thamel Amrit Marg. A Hindu temple
 * Sankateswori Bagwati Mandir, Thamel Marg. A Hindu temple
 * Saraswati Temple, Manjushree Marg (मञ्जुश्री मार्ग) (Western Part of Swayambhunath Complex).
 * Jame Mosque, Durbar Marg
 * Kashmiri Mosque, Durbar Marg
 * Saraswati Mandir, Thamel Amrit Marg. A Hindu temple
 * Sankateswori Bagwati Mandir, Thamel Marg. A Hindu temple
 * Saraswati Temple, Manjushree Marg (मञ्जुश्री मार्ग) (Western Part of Swayambhunath Complex).
 * Jame Mosque, Durbar Marg
 * Kashmiri Mosque, Durbar Marg

Kathmandu Durbar Square area
In Nepali, Durbar means "palace" and this is where the monarch was crowned, and from where he ruled. This ancient square, which is still under reconstruction as of April 2023, is crowded with palaces and temples, including the current incarnation of the Kasthamandap or "Wooden house" that gives the city its name. The square has been occupied since the construction of a palace around 1000 CE. This site is the most popular UNESCO World Heritage Site in Nepal.

The Square is particularly fascinating in the very early morning as all the various merchants set up their wares and when many devotees make their offerings at the various shrines and temples. There will be a number of young men who will offer to be "guides." Be firm with saying "no" if you are not interested. The entrance fee for foreigners is Rs1000 (but nobody checks at night). If you plan to be in the area for more than one day, it's worth going to the Site Office where you can exchange your single-entry ticket with a multiple-entry pass allowing you to wander in and out as you wish. You will need your passport and one passport photo. The whole process takes only a few minutes and is totally free. Your entry pass gives you access to all open parts of Durbar Square (including the museum) as well as the Hanuman Dhoka.

It is possible to climb the steps of many of the temples for a better look and to join others seated near the top watching the activity below. There are more than a dozen buildings and statues of note in this small area. They include:


 * Ashok Binayak
 * Bhagwati Temple
 * Indrapur Temple
 * Krishna Temple
 * Kal Bhairab - the "Black" Bhairab, a fearsome visage of Shiva with some ancient legends about its power.
 * Mahendreswar Temple
 * Saraswati Temple - the Goddess of Knowledge and Learning
 * Shiva Temple
 * Shiva-Parvati Temple
 * Sweta Bhairab - the "White" Bhairab, a large mask shown only during the Indra Jatra festival.
 * Vishnu temple
 * Kal Bhairab - the "Black" Bhairab, a fearsome visage of Shiva with some ancient legends about its power.
 * Mahendreswar Temple
 * Saraswati Temple - the Goddess of Knowledge and Learning
 * Shiva Temple
 * Shiva-Parvati Temple
 * Sweta Bhairab - the "White" Bhairab, a large mask shown only during the Indra Jatra festival.
 * Vishnu temple
 * Saraswati Temple - the Goddess of Knowledge and Learning
 * Shiva Temple
 * Shiva-Parvati Temple
 * Sweta Bhairab - the "White" Bhairab, a large mask shown only during the Indra Jatra festival.
 * Vishnu temple

Do
Singing bowl workshops, there are several free singing bowl workshops in Thamel, one can be found on the third floor in an apartment near Kathmandu burger.

Environmental

 * Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP), Bhagawan Bahal, Thamel. Tel: +4267471 have a centre in Kathmandu (behind Kilroy's), which provides environmental information about Nepal. They provide books for trekkers to record their experiences in for others to read before they set off. You can ask to see a BBC film entitled "Bearing the Burden" about Nepalese porters. They also provide a water bottle refill service that is also cheaper than buying new bottles (Rs 10). You can also buy there some biodegradable soap and iodine for your trek.

Massage courses

 * The Healing Hands Centre. Classes in Ancient Massage and Thai Massage. Five-day course, ten-day course and one-month professional course, runs every month and recognized by THAI (Thai Healing Alliance International) worldwide and Natural Health Practitioners of Canada (NHPC).

Yoga

 * Sadhana Bhumi Himalaya For Life Research, Sadhana Nagar. Tel: +4039070 (land) / 9741301576 Yoga and naturopathy retreat centre offers ancient traditional yoga combined with modern yoga style in a natural environment.

Books

 * Second Hand - The alleys of Thamel are full of second hand book shops. Check around for a good price, as they do vary immensely. Return read books for 50% buyback or store credit.
 * Second Hand - The alleys of Thamel are full of second hand book shops. Check around for a good price, as they do vary immensely. Return read books for 50% buyback or store credit.
 * Second Hand - The alleys of Thamel are full of second hand book shops. Check around for a good price, as they do vary immensely. Return read books for 50% buyback or store credit.

Trekking gear. Many stores in the area sell low quality trekking gear, haggle hard. a very cheap wholesaler can be found (with difficulty) upstairs across from "Hotel Himalayan oasis" on the south end of Chaksibari marg, haggle hard)

Handicrafts
The streets, lanes, and alleys of Thamel are packed with handicraft stores. In particular, Cashmere shawls and scarves, Tibetan carpets, T-shirts, hippy clothes, and brass items are particularly common.

Be aware of fake products, particularly cashmere, pashmina (which really just means wool), and silver. Also, avoid products sold as made from baby yak wool. This kind of wool does not exist, and it is just a marketing ploy.

Most of the shops in Thamel sell exactly the same items, but there is a row of shops on Tridevi Sadakfor (the street leading from Thamel to the former palace) that offer more stylish and unique cashmere and pashmina goods.

The shops below offer unique items:


 * Pilgrims Bookshop (see books above) sell a range of unique handicrafts that includes printed cotton scarves, loose dresses, greeting cards, and wooden items.
 * Pilgrims Bookshop (see books above) sell a range of unique handicrafts that includes printed cotton scarves, loose dresses, greeting cards, and wooden items.

Eat
Local food can be found in Nepali restaurants for Rs70-100, street vendors sell steamed dumplings (momos) and fried food. Hygiene is usually very poor- even for Nepal.

Thamel



 * Ace Cafe and Bar. Good mix of Indian, Nepali and Western. Costs generally Rs50-120. On the first non-touristy street West of Thamel, across from the People's College.
 * Alchemy. An Italian restaurant. Somewhat expensive for Thamel. Excellent Italian dishes and nothing else. Pizzas from Rs300 and pastas from Rs280. Cappuccinos. You get wine in 1/4 or 1/2 litre so suitable for dining alone or in two. It's about 100 m before Chetrapati Chowk.
 * BK's French Fry heaven in Thamel. Opposite Funky Buddha Bar.
 * Cafe Kaldi has a small menu with drinks, salads & snacks as well as free Wi-Fi for customers (please refrain from downloading anything as the connection is limited.) On Mandala Street, behind OR2K.
 * Café Mitra Serves excellent European meals. It is expensive for Kathmandu, but the standard of the food more than makes up for this. 250/13 Thamel Marg.
 * Cozy Restaurant. Good buffalo steak and chocolate banana pancakes. New place, relatively unknown, but excellent food. On the right as you walk down Tridevi Marg from Thamel Chowk, on the second story by an internet cafe. Meals Rs200-300.
 * Electric Pagoda is a very eclectic bar on Satghumti Road. Specializes in Mexican cuisine and also offers local and continental dishes between Rs100-300. Easy going atmosphere with well rounded music and very friendly staff. Tuborg/Everest beer approximately Rs350.
 * Everest Steak House. Traditional pre- or post-trekking feast: massive steaks costing about Rs300. Just off Chhetrapati, the pagoda-cum-roundabout.
 * Fire & Ice. Popular with westerns for the excellent traditional Italian-style stone-baked pizzas, which are delicious (probably better than Roadhouse). Certainly pricier than most, starting from around Rs580 for a cheese and tomato pizza. Chocolate ice cream with added chocolate on top is recommended, and cost about Rs300 in 2012. On the south side of the main road into Thamel (Tridevi Marg) coming from the Palace Museum, next to a temple under Himalayan Bank.


 * Hankook Sarang Korean restaurant, In the same alley as "Senate club". A good Korean restaurant for a light meal and drinks. Rs250-700.
 * Hot Breads. Past Helena's, opposite the right-turn junction towards Fire & Ice. They sell fresh pastries from about Rs60 each, which you can eat on the roof along with a selection of drinks.
 * Just Juice and Shakes. Popular with Israelis and long-timers. Great coffees, fruit juices and shakes. Two eggs on toast: Rs80 in 2012. It can be found 10 m down the alley across the street from the music shop, near Pilgrim's bookshop curve.
 * La Dolce Vita - Italian restaurant serving excellent pastas, desserts and speciality coffees all at reasonable prices.
 * Phat Kath - Off the main street close to Helena's and Weizon Bakery. Good breakfasts from Rs200. They have a decent lunch/dinner menu with good meals. Service is very good.
 * Sandwich Point is a small sandwich bar with a wide range of fillings including beacons, ham, chicken and sausage. To get there, turn left on the second intersection of thamel arriving from Himalayan Java. It is on the left just a few metres down the road.
 * Tashi Delek. Tibetan restaurant with extensive menu and good Mexican/Italian dishes. Open late. Across the street from the postcard shop, near HotBreads corner. Rs100-300.
 * Third Eye. Indian food in a nice building and outdoor garden. Rs250-500.
 * Phat Kath - Off the main street close to Helena's and Weizon Bakery. Good breakfasts from Rs200. They have a decent lunch/dinner menu with good meals. Service is very good.
 * Sandwich Point is a small sandwich bar with a wide range of fillings including beacons, ham, chicken and sausage. To get there, turn left on the second intersection of thamel arriving from Himalayan Java. It is on the left just a few metres down the road.
 * Tashi Delek. Tibetan restaurant with extensive menu and good Mexican/Italian dishes. Open late. Across the street from the postcard shop, near HotBreads corner. Rs100-300.
 * Third Eye. Indian food in a nice building and outdoor garden. Rs250-500.
 * Sandwich Point is a small sandwich bar with a wide range of fillings including beacons, ham, chicken and sausage. To get there, turn left on the second intersection of thamel arriving from Himalayan Java. It is on the left just a few metres down the road.
 * Tashi Delek. Tibetan restaurant with extensive menu and good Mexican/Italian dishes. Open late. Across the street from the postcard shop, near HotBreads corner. Rs100-300.
 * Third Eye. Indian food in a nice building and outdoor garden. Rs250-500.
 * Third Eye. Indian food in a nice building and outdoor garden. Rs250-500.

Freak Street
A few good places to eat, such as the Ganesh restaurant halfway along the street next to a small shrine. Try the cakes at the tiny, bright blue "Snowman" cakeshop.

Thamel

 * Himalayan Java. Everything you ever wanted in a coffee shop, great coffees, meals, desserts, newspapers, sofas, Large screen TV, even a guitar on the wall that says, "Play me!" Meet the teenage elite of Kathmandu here. Upstairs, the last building on the left as you leave Thamel heading for the former Royal Palace, near a sign for an Apple computer shop. One floor above it is a bar and pizza shop from which you can also order Himalayan Java's coffee. Also has an outlet near Ravi Bhawan, opposite Lincoln School.
 * Himalayan Java. Everything you ever wanted in a coffee shop, great coffees, meals, desserts, newspapers, sofas, Large screen TV, even a guitar on the wall that says, "Play me!" Meet the teenage elite of Kathmandu here. Upstairs, the last building on the left as you leave Thamel heading for the former Royal Palace, near a sign for an Apple computer shop. One floor above it is a bar and pizza shop from which you can also order Himalayan Java's coffee. Also has an outlet near Ravi Bhawan, opposite Lincoln School.
 * Himalayan Java. Everything you ever wanted in a coffee shop, great coffees, meals, desserts, newspapers, sofas, Large screen TV, even a guitar on the wall that says, "Play me!" Meet the teenage elite of Kathmandu here. Upstairs, the last building on the left as you leave Thamel heading for the former Royal Palace, near a sign for an Apple computer shop. One floor above it is a bar and pizza shop from which you can also order Himalayan Java's coffee. Also has an outlet near Ravi Bhawan, opposite Lincoln School.

Swayambhu
There are a number of cafes within the Swayambhu temple complex. Cafe Lisa-T and Mhendo Cafe overlook the stupa. Capuccino averages around Nrs250.



Thamel

 * New Orleans Cafe from above has live music on many nights. Described by its manager as "the most happening place in Kathmandu". Make of that what you will!
 * Purple haze, A large and popular rock bar, Wednesday is open mic and on Friday the house band plays a mix of English and Nepali songs.recommended.
 * Little star Newari restaurant, cheap, local, unhygienic, rowdy. Has toongba (home made millet beer) for 110 rupees.
 * Little star Newari restaurant, cheap, local, unhygienic, rowdy. Has toongba (home made millet beer) for 110 rupees.

Budget

 * Kasthamandap Travelers home, Pipalbote Marg. Swiss/French run, great but expensive food. Rs250-400 dorm, Rs1200 private.
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * Kasthamandap Travelers home, Pipalbote Marg. Swiss/French run, great but expensive food. Rs250-400 dorm, Rs1200 private.
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * Kasthamandap Travelers home, Pipalbote Marg. Swiss/French run, great but expensive food. Rs250-400 dorm, Rs1200 private.
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * Kasthamandap Travelers home, Pipalbote Marg. Swiss/French run, great but expensive food. Rs250-400 dorm, Rs1200 private.
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * Kasthamandap Travelers home, Pipalbote Marg. Swiss/French run, great but expensive food. Rs250-400 dorm, Rs1200 private.
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * Kasthamandap Travelers home, Pipalbote Marg. Swiss/French run, great but expensive food. Rs250-400 dorm, Rs1200 private.
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).
 * The Doors Hotel & Restro Bar, Paknajol Marg Chowk. Free breakfast. +977 1-4700216. $13 (Apr 2022).

Connect

 * MSN Cyber C@fe, Treveli Marg, Thamel. Tel:+4700362 . In a small alley diagonally across from Mandala Street. Internet, scanning, photocopying, and lamentation.