Kaohsiung

Kaohsiung (高雄; Ko-hiông in Taiwanese, Gāoxióng in Mandarin), with 2.73 million inhabitants in October 2023, is the third most populated city in Taiwan after New Taipei and Taichung. It is located in the south of the island on the west coast. Kaohsiung is known for its harbor, although more for commercial than tourism reasons. Its year-round fine weather and the low cost of living makes Kaohsiung the place to visit.

Understand
Kaohsiung has got Taiwan's largest port. Although the ranking has declined, Kaohsiung is still the world's 14th largest cargo-container seaport as of 2018. The city has high concentrations of heavy industry, including steel production, shipbuilding, and other exports that have led to Kaohsiung's relatively high levels of air pollution (though the situation has improved substantially). Unlike Taipei, Kaohsiung is a planned city with wide streets and slightly less traffic congestion than the capital. The city has made great strides in transforming itself from a primarily industrial city into a modern Asian metropolis, and several areas of the city, such as along the banks of the Love River (Ai He, 愛河), have benefited from major beautification projects under the tenure of former mayor Frank Hsieh. The city is often known as Taiwan's Harbor Capital (港都) because of its close connection and heavy reliance on the ocean and maritime transportation.



Kaohsiung began in the 17th century as a small fishing village named "Takao" (打狗), derived from the local aboriginal name meaning "bamboo forest". The name was changed to "高雄" (meaning: "high hero") by the Japanese in 1895, also pronounced "Takao" in Japanese, as they found the original name of 打狗 ("beating the dog") to be vulgar.

Like the rest of southern Taiwan, Kaohsiung is a stronghold of the Taiwan independence movement.

Orientation
Many visitors coming from the north will arrive by high-speed train at the Zuoying High Speed Train Station, which is far to the north of the city. The city center around the Central Train Station and the Formosa Boulevard Subway Station can be accessed via the MRT's red line.

Another common point of entry is the Kaohsiung International Airport, which is comparatively close to the city. The airport is on the MRT's red line, and the central area of town is a 20 minutes MRT ride away. There is a tourist information office on the ground floor of the international terminal.

Climate
Kaohsiung enjoys a mild tropical climate, comparatively milder and drier than northern Taiwan. The weather however remains hot and sticky in the summer, with June, July and August seeing the most rainfall. Still, the proximity of the sea makes the summer heat much more bearable than in other cities at a similar latitude.

By plane



 * Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport – 40 km west of Taipei, but connected to the country's High Speed Rail (HSR) network. Although Kaohsiung has an international airport, its service is more limited compared to Taoyuan. Taoyuan Airport serves Taipei and the north of Taiwan. It may be a better option to arrive there and use the HSR to Zuoying station in Kaohsiung (2 hr).

By train


Traveling by train is a viable option for getting to Kaohsiung, as the fastest high speed trains from Taipei cover the distance in just 1½ hr on the Taiwan High Speed Rail line (THSR). There are 3 types of tickets: Business Reserved, General Reserved, and Non-Reserved. Reserved are approx. NT$1,500 and non-reserved slightly cheaper at NT$1400. Get Designated Seats if you are traveling with luggage, they are less than NT$100 more expensive.

The stations and platforms are wheelchair-friendly and all trains include a wheelchair-accessible car (wider doors, ample space, accessible bathroom). Note that the official English guide for online reservations distinguishes between "senior or disabled tickets" and "handicap-friendly seats"; while it's possible to buy a ticket for the former online ("correct passenger ID" required), a ticket for the latter has to be reserved by calling the ticketing office on the phone.

The HSR terminal is in Zuoying (左營, also Tsoying) on the northern outskirts of town, and you'll need to connect to the city center via the Red Metro (MRT) line (approximately NT$20–25), bus, ordinary train, or taxi (approximately NT$250–350). The MRT Red Line now extends to Kaohsiung Main Station (#R11) and the HSR Station (#R16) and beyond (see system map). Kaohsiung is also served by the Taiwan Railway Administration's Western Line and Pingtung Line. The city is roughly 4 to 5 hours away from Taipei by normal express train.

By bus
Buses run the length of the island, with stops in major towns. They feature fully reclining seats, baggage transportation and, on most, video game consoles or televisions for each seat. Prices run around NT$1,000 per trip, give or take, depending on the initial and final destination.

Most major bus companies have their office and stops close to the train station. They are located on the same road as the train station, about half a block down the street.

By boat
Because Kaohsiung is also a harbor, transportation by boat will bring you directly into the city.

Get around
A great way of getting around is to use the cheap city bicycles – see below.

On foot
As the sidewalks double as scooter parking areas, caution and awareness are a must when walking through unfamiliar areas off of main streets. Generally, it is best to walk between the scooter parking row and store fronts, rather than between parked scooters and the road. Pedestrians should be especially aware when crossing a road as cars and motorbikes often run red lights. Exploring Kaohsiung on foot is highly recommended, as many of the distances between sites of interest are not far.

By metro
The Kaohsiung MRT has two lines. The Red Line runs from north to south, offering a handy route from the THSR Zuoying station and the airport into the downtown core, while Orange Line runs across the city from the Port of Kaohsiung in the west to the eastern suburb of Daliao. The Metro Line is very clean and offers a convenient way to quickly move within the city. However, as the metro is rather young the network is yet not very dense and often you have to walk a few minutes to the next station. Operation of the MRT stops at about 23:30 for the orange line and as late as 00:30 for the red line. Ask at the information desk to be sure.

Feeder buses are available to bridge network gaps and provide better access to the metro lines. The MRT stations are all well connected to the city bus lines for further transfers. Stations and trains are wheelchair-friendly, but note that when there are multiple exits from a single station, usually only one of these is equipped with a lift.

The K-MRT's ticket gates accept iPass, EasyCard, contactless MasterCard debit and credit cards, UnionPay credit cards, and QR codes from LINE Pay (if you set up your LINE Pay account outside Taiwan, make sure to set the QR code screen to Taiwan to generate a code valid for local use). An ongoing promotion means that MasterCard cardholders get 30% off weekend rides when paying with any contactless MasterCard. There are two separate contactless readers: the lower one is for iPass and EasyCard and the new upper one is for bank cards.

By taxi
Taxis can be an easy way to get to somewhere unfamiliar, and are fairly common in the city. If you have the business card of a location, or the Chinese characters written down, they can easily get you there far faster than most other means.

It is best to get the price in advance, and, if possible, buckle up. Few taxi drivers speak English, and the majority ignore many rules of the road. Do not be surprised if they drive the wrong way, up a hill, through heavy traffic, although this behavior of cab drivers is more rare nowadays in the cities at least. Typically, going from one end of the city to the other should never be more than NT$400.

Do not be surprised if they open the door and spit what looks like blood. In actuality, the taxi driver is chewing betel nut (binlang). This commercially available product is a mild stimulant and is used by many taxi drivers.

By bicycle


Bikes are also common in Kaohsiung, and the large number of locally produced bikes (often rebranded and sold overseas) means purchasing a new bike will often be cheaper relative to its counterpart in other countries (primarily Europe and America).

As Kaohsiung is predominantly flat, a great way to see the city is by bike. There are many bicycle paths across the city, most of which are clearly marked. The city government's website has recommended paths for visitors, together with maps: Sightseeing in Kaohsiung. Riding along the Love River north towards the Art Museum area offers a pleasant ride and some scenery of the old Kaohsiung that is fast disappearing. Pleasant bike routes can also be found around Sun Yet-Sen university and on the coastal side of Shoushan mountain, but expect a few hills to climb. It is best to avoid this place on the weekends when hordes of young Kaohsiung couples head to the mountain for some romantic sunset views of the city and ocean at one of the countless coffee shops. Cijin Island also offers some nice riding around the streets at the northern end of the island. However, it is not yet legally possible to bicycle to and from Cijin as the underwater Kaohsiung Harbor Tunnel to and from Cianjhen District is officially closed to bicycles around the clock, even during late nights when ferries stop running.



By scooter
Scooters are the primary means of transportation within Kaohsiung. With a dedicated two-wheel vehicle lane on most major roads, and with frequent and varied scooter shops around town, renting or purchasing a scooter is very easy; however, see the Taiwan article for legal issues including licenses.

Scooters come in several engine sizes from below 50cc to more than 250cc. Most common are the 4-stroke 100 and 125cc models, which are also suitable to explore the surroundings of the city. The larger scooters, 150cc and more, often include a greater subset of amenities for a second passenger, including a backrest, wider seat, full windshield and footholds and can rival a motorcycle overall size, weight and fuel consumption. Often, they come with larger wheels as well.

All passengers on a scooter must wear helmets by law. Helmets are sold almost everywhere, and start at NT$100. A helmet with visor is strongly suggested.

555 Scooter Rental, Sales & Repair is beside Kaohsiung railway station, has competitive prices for both short- and long-term rentals, and the staff speaks English, Chinese, Japanese and Afrikaans.

Legal issues
Scooters with an engine size of 50cc require a light motorcycle license to drive, and should be insured and registered in the owner's name. If you have a Taiwanese automobile driver's license or a valid International Driving Permit (IDP) you do not need an additional license for these small scooters. Motorcycles with an engine displacement of 51–250cc require a heavy motorcycle driving license. However, foreigners often drive scooters up to 250cc with no license, insurance or registration. Due to a loophole in Taiwanese law, scooters registered to foreigners who have left the country cannot be bought by Taiwanese citizens because the registration cannot change hands, legally. An underground market in "foreigner scooters" allows visitors to purchase scooters without insurance or registration.

City police are often more lenient on foreigners. Short of being towed for parking in a red zone (a stripe of red paint on the edge of a sidewalk or road), foreigners are usually waved through stops, or, at best, ticketed. If the scooter is not registered to you however, it's hard to say what exactly happens when the ticket is sent out. Often the best idea is to speak a language other than English or Chinese, play dumb and hope the officer will get flustered and let you go - that is, if you're the type who likes to break laws in foreign countries.

By car
Rentals are available in various locations across town, but obtaining a license within the city can be a problem. It is recommended you call ahead if you have an IDP, to ensure it will allow you to drive. In addition, license laws in Taiwan fluctuate from year to year for foreigners. You must have an Alien Residence Card for more than a year to take the license examination (2006).

Parking is scarce, but available. The city recognizes this problem, and attempts to make the city more car-friendly by building parking garages and painting designated parking spaces alongside streets. However, for travel within the city itself, or only locally, it is recommended you get a scooter.

By boat
An inexpensive ferry service connects various areas of Kaohsiung City, including Taiwan's nearest island, Xiao Liuqiu (小琉球) - Little Ryukyu - which is a coral island located just south of Kaohsiung and is reachable by ferry from Dong Gang (東港), which is only a 15-minute scooter or taxi ride from Kaohsiung International Airport.

By bus
Kaohsiung has a well-developed bus network, with services generally running frequently. Bus fares can be paid with iPass, EasyCard, or by cash.

If you want to get to Cijin District:


 * Take bus No. 1 at the Kaohsiung Train Station or take bus No. 31 at the Zhuo Iing Bus Station to the Ferry Pier.
 * Take bus No. 35 at the Ciang Zhen Bus Station to Cijin Peninsula.
 * Take Bus No. 12 at the Kaohsiung International Airport to Shiaugang and take Bus No. 14 to ChiangZhen Ferry Station.

Or, you may take a ferry:
 * Gushan ferry terminal (from which one can take the ferry to Cijin island) is an easy 10 min walk from Sizihwan MRT station (you may have to ask for directions though as the route is not that straightforward, but signboards are pretty clear nowadays)

Cijin


The Cijin District (旗津; Qijin) is a slender island in front of Kaohsiung which serves as a natural breakwater for the harbor. The district is filled with seafood restaurants selling freshly caught seafood which can be prepared right after you pick it. If you have only a brief period in Kaohsiung, skip Cijin. If you have more than a day, you will find the island to be a pleasant and relaxing place to take a break. Most of the major sites can be seen within two hours. Cijin is connected to the rest of Kaohsiung City by tunnels, but the transportation of choice is one of the many ferries that traverse the harbor. Fare for the ride is NT$30 per person. Bikes and scooters can be brought aboard, but the fee is higher with a scooter (no extra fee for bicycles). Make sure you use Gushan ferry pier and not the one in front of Warehouse No. 2, as that one is less frequently served and is only for pedestrians. The ferries are wheelchair accessible. Upon exiting the ferry, turn right and head for the lighthouse and the fort, which are located on a hill with great views of the city, the harbor, and the ocean. From there, continue south towards the beach (maybe visit the Star Tunnel) until you get to the plaza with a fountain. Here you can decide: either go into the street that goes back to the ferry and has about two blocks of snack stands, as well as some good seafood restaurants. Or (especially if you rent a bike, either from Youbike or a rental from a shop in Lisyong Street next to Sizihwan station), there is a nice coastal path that goes south along the beach through Cijin Coast Park.



The Western districts
The area to the west of the Love River (愛河; pinyin: Ài Hé) includes the Gushan (鼓山) and Yancheng (鹽埕) districts.

The main attractions in Gushan are:



While all three attractions are within Gushan, the Museum of Fine Arts is located at the Northern end of the district. The first two attractions are better visited together with the Yancheng district.

Yancheng, once a largely sodden, marshy land, was drained in imperial times for salt production. It became part of the modern harbor front. Many of the warehouses there, long abandoned, have been renovated and refurbished as part of the Pier-2 Art Center.



Elsewhere

 * Food, games, and shopping. Try the Liuho Night Market, which is a tourist market. Ruifeng night market, at the corner of YuCheng and Nanping, heaves with locals. Closed Mondays and Wednesdays.
 * Food, games, and shopping. Try the Liuho Night Market, which is a tourist market. Ruifeng night market, at the corner of YuCheng and Nanping, heaves with locals. Closed Mondays and Wednesdays.
 * Food, games, and shopping. Try the Liuho Night Market, which is a tourist market. Ruifeng night market, at the corner of YuCheng and Nanping, heaves with locals. Closed Mondays and Wednesdays.
 * Food, games, and shopping. Try the Liuho Night Market, which is a tourist market. Ruifeng night market, at the corner of YuCheng and Nanping, heaves with locals. Closed Mondays and Wednesdays.


 * Take a nighttime stroll along the promenade of the Love River and enjoy the live music, a coffee or an ice cream in one of the cafes.
 * Go to the top of the 85 Tower, the second tallest building in Taiwan.
 * Hike Monkey Mountain (壽山; Shòu shān) and enjoy the view of the city and the ocean. Beware of the namesake monkeys, who have been known to steal hikers' food, drinks, and even cameras.

Work
For foreigners, work in Kaohsiung usually falls into two branches. The majority of employment involves English as a Second Language (ESL) work in buxibans (補習班, cram schools), kindergartens and schools (public, private or university). Most of the others are businessmen and women in the employ of multinational corporations here to manage, oversee or deploy production in Taiwan for their home company abroad.

Substitute work is easily available for native English speakers and can be obtained through internet groups such as Taiwan Teaching Jobs or through local postings in expatriate hangouts. More permanent teaching work is also available, especially in the summer and around Chinese New Year. Most buxibans require teachers to sign a 1-year contract and provide a work permit and ARC (Alien Residence Card). ARC holders are also covered under national health insurance. Without the proper paperwork - including a 4-year university degree - you cannot get an ARC and will need to leave the country every 2–4 months to renew your visa. You will also be working illegally, which involves a number of other inconveniences (including lack of phone and Internet access). It is also highly illegal for foreigner to work as teachers in kindergartens few provide work permits.

Eat
There are numerous seafood restaurants dotting the main street in Cijin Island, all offering the same fresh seafood for about NT$100-200 per dish. It is a great idea to go in a small group and order a few dishes to try, probably one more dish than the number of people in your group. In the evening, a night bazaar goes into full swing. There are lots of little eats to eat as per Taiwan's night markets, BBQ squid, mochi to name a few are particularly good.



Night markets
Night markets are a great place to pick up cheap local foods, including stinky tofu, barbecued squid, red bean pancakes and the like.



A more local, food-oriented night market is Rueifong Night Market (瑞豐夜市), straight outside exit 1 of MRT Kaohsiung Arena. It is open Tuesday and Thursday to Sunday, but if you are uncomfortable in crowds you should avoid the weekends. A similar night market is 青年夜市 near MRT Da-Dong.

Budget
Lunchboxes are common throughout the city, and a choose-your-order buffet take-out are typically NT$50-100. The food is typically fried, with a mix of vegetables and meats.

The ubiquitous 7-Eleven stores have tea eggs, hot dogs, packaged beverages and junk food. Lunchbox style microwavables are also available, including dumplings, spaghetti and curry rice.



Mid-range

 * Smokey Joes offers Tex-Mex, including fajitas, tortillas and other Western staples at affordable prices (NT$170 and up). The menu is in English and the staff usually understands some English as well. They offer a 'VIP' card for people who spend over NT$1,000 on 20 separate meals which gives the holder at 10% discount at any store operated by Amy (the owner of Smokey Joes). This includes Mama Mia's, an Italian restaurant located downtown.
 * The Pantheon serves traditional Greek and Mediterranean food at good prices. They are known for their Gyro lunch (around NT$200), qne hey also offer a 20% discount on takeout.
 * Escape 41 a little bit hard to get to without your own transportation (if you are sporty, a bicycle will do, but don't be afraid of uphill-riding, cab might drop you off there as well) though you'll be rewarded. Its located directly on the coastline behind Zhongshan University, far off the cities hustle and bustle. Great at sunsets, big terrace; western food, not cheap but ok. 41–2, CaiShan, Gushan District (07) 525–0058.
 * Michino Diner, serving popular breakfast and brunch. You can choose between burgers, sandwiches, salads, omelettes and real American breakfast and brunch at NT$150-300, phone: +886 216-2290 Address: #79 Datong 1st Rd (高雄巿新興區大同一路79號) Hours: Tu-Su 10:00-22:00
 * Escape 41 a little bit hard to get to without your own transportation (if you are sporty, a bicycle will do, but don't be afraid of uphill-riding, cab might drop you off there as well) though you'll be rewarded. Its located directly on the coastline behind Zhongshan University, far off the cities hustle and bustle. Great at sunsets, big terrace; western food, not cheap but ok. 41–2, CaiShan, Gushan District (07) 525–0058.
 * Michino Diner, serving popular breakfast and brunch. You can choose between burgers, sandwiches, salads, omelettes and real American breakfast and brunch at NT$150-300, phone: +886 216-2290 Address: #79 Datong 1st Rd (高雄巿新興區大同一路79號) Hours: Tu-Su 10:00-22:00

Splurge


There is also a Ruth's Chris, an Outback and several steak houses in town.

Drink
Two local beer companies, Tsingtao and Taiwan Beer, are ubiquitous throughout the island and can be purchased by visitors cheaply with little hassle about age restrictions. Most major soft drinks are available, and tea stands on almost every corner offer concoctions of fruit, yogurt, green tea, the Taiwanese specialty "bubble tea," and a variety of other flavors.

While tap water is most certainly not potable, good reverse osmosis filtration will remove bacteria and heavy metals, and is considered safe for consumption. Water dispensers, which resemble gas stations, are present throughout the city. However, they, along with many of the bottled water brands, are suspect. Both have been found, in the past, to simply bottle or distribute tap water. To avoid ingesting non-potable water, only purchase bottles that are sealed with an expiration date clearly printed on the bottle. Often, it is easier to simply purchase green tea at a stand or a convenience store, or a soft drink. Restaurant water is safe, with the exception of some lunchbox eateries and stands on the street.



Stay safe
Kaohsiung's crime rate is much lower than probably any city of comparable size in the West, so tourists need not be too worried. Theft tends to be the most common form of criminal activity encountered by foreigners, and expensive bikes and scooters are frequent targets.

As a major seaport, organized crime has also become an increasing problem in the city, and a fair number of businesses are nothing more than a front for local gangs. That said, the gangs do not resort to random violence or theft.

In general, Kaohsiung offers a very safe environment as long as you mind your own business and don't get involved with local rivalries. Violent crime is very rare, and visitors should not encounter any problems - though, like any major city, it is always wise to err on the side of caution.

Also please remember: tap water is not potable.

Go next

 * Tainan is to the north. It can easily be accessed by train or car. There is a regular train service from Kaohsiung Central Train Station. The journey takes around 30 minutes, which makes Tainan an attractive day-trip or even half-day destination.
 * Pingtung County is to the south. All the way to its southern end is Kenting.
 * Taitung County is to the east. However, the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Tai 20.svg Provincial Highway Number 20) has been closed mid-way since 2009 due to the Typhoon Morakot, so you have to take a very long detour via the South-Link Highway (Tai 9.svg Provincial Highway Number 9) if going by road.
 * Penghu – An outlying island archipelago, with a saturated turquoise sea around and coral sand, so pack beach wear.