Kandy

Kandy is in the centre of Sri Lanka 125 km away from Colombo and is generally recognised as the island nation's cultural capital. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Understand
This is the last kingdom of the country. Since it was conquered by the British around 1815 you can still see the living traditions. Kandyans are usually proud of their heritage. Since the western elements has played a comparatively little role in the city most Kandyans uphold Buddhist values. Since it is in the cultural triangle the authorities try to retain this values as much as possible. However, don't expect to find the honest Kandyans they describe in the colonial literature now. Be careful with your belongings and the people whom you associate with. But this is a peaceful city compared to most other parts of the country with a lower crime rate.

By train
From Colombo - Intercity express trains are hassle-free and scenic, 2½ hours. Reservation are needed for these trains, it can be done just before the departure depending on the period but is best done in advance especially if you are travelling on a weekend or holiday. There is a great observation saloon (first class) in this particular train, but this often books out. Other trains are overly crowded and late. Tickets from Colombo are Rs 1,250 first class, Rs 230 in second class, Rs 125 in third class.

The train line goes further to Badulla, passing on its way Nuwara Eliya (Nanu Oya station from where one needs to take a short bus or tuk-tuk ride to Nuwara Eliya proper), Haputale and Ella.

If you are in Negombo you will have to take some bus, taxi or tuk-tuk to some of the cities where the Main Line train goes to Kandy Ragama, Gampaha or Veyangoda, on the trip you will see the Bible Rock, which resembles the more famous Sigiriya citadel to the north of it.

From Ella, it is a spectacular train ride through hills and tea plantations, 6½ - 8½ hours, Rs 270 / 150 for 2nd / 3rd class.

When you arrive, watch out for the tuk-tuk mafia at the railway station – better catch a tuk-tuk some distance from the station, or even better use Uber, PickMe or the like (again, some distance from the railway station tuk-tuk stand, as otherwise the tuk-tuk mafia there will threaten and chase your driver away). Train schedule can be found at Sri Lankan Railways website.



By bus
From Colombo take bus #1, more than 70 per day, 3¼ hours. Alternatively get on Intercity air-conditioned bus from Colombo, which is the next best option to the train. If you are female and travelling alone it is best to either sit next to another female or try to sit as close to the conductor as possible (i.e. up front) to avoid any unnecessary surprises.

From the Colombo airport. Walk or take a tuktuk to the bus terminal, where the friendly locals will direct you to the bus to Kandy, 3½ hr, Rs 150 (as of Jan 2013).

From Dambulla bus station there are direct bused to Kandy. No train run on this route. A non-air-con bus will cost Rs 100 and take about 3 hours. Air-conditioned buses are also available on this route but they stop only briefly in Dambulla and they usually stop somewhere outside the bus station.

By taxi
If you're just arriving in Sri Lanka, heading for Kandy, you can hire a taxi from one of the stalls in the arrivals hall at Colombo airport for about Rs 6,000. The journey takes about 3 hours. This saves the hassle of going into Colombo, and is a lot quicker and easier.

By hired mini-vans
Hired mini-vans with a driver are available from Colombo through travel agencies and hotel concierges. The road to Kandy is astonishingly chaotic and frightening even for seasoned travellers. Be prepared for a long slow slog in traffic, or, if your driver decides to make the journey at a more practical speed, a hair-raising adventure replete with passing around blind corners and games of chicken with the ubiquitous intercity buses. A day trip from Mt. Lavinia to Kandy, including seeing the sights in Kandy, costs around Rs 10,000 (May 2011).

By air
Air Taxi (from Colombo) is the latest option to travel to Kandy. The De Havilland Twin Otter float planes operated by Sri Lankan Airlines leave Colombo at 9AM (from Kelani River) and touch down at Mahaweli River in Polgolla, Kandy at 9:30AM The travel time between Colombo and Kandy is 30 minutes. It costs Rs 25,000 (2016).

Cinnamon Air operates daily scheduled flights that depart from Colombo (Bandaranaike International Airport) which reaches Polgolla Reservoir, Kandy in an hour and from Colombo City (Waters Edge) which reaches the destination in 30 minutes. One-way fare per person is listed as US$153 (without tax).

Get around
The local "Three-Wheelers" ('Tuk-Tuk) are an amazingly cheap (if you know how to haggle! If you can get them for Rs 60-70 per Km you are doing well) and exciting way of seeing the city, and they run virtually all night long. However, beware of the Tuk-Tuk mafia at the Kandy railway station – they are likely to rip you off (and they threaten Uber or PickMe drivers when they collect passengers near their stand).

Walking is also recommended - the centre is not that large - as a way of seeing temples, shops, shopping area and other sights around the lake. You can visit the Temple of the Tooth by on foot as well but you'll have to ask for directions.

There are plenty of suburban buses that pass through the city center.

See




Peradeniya
Peradeniya &mdash; is a big Kandy's suburb 5 km away from it. A lot of local buses go there from Kandy from Kandy's clock-tower bus terminal, including #644 and regular buses headed to Colombo, Rs 50 (as of 2024). Tuk tuk costs Rs 800-1000 for foreigners (2024).

Do

 * Kandyan dancing &mdash; traditional form of dancing, which can be seen at multiple venues including that the "Kandy Cultural Centre" near the Kandy lake. As of 2024, expect prices to range from 2000 to 3500 per ticket for about 1 hour performances, not including intermission time.

Treks

 * Within the Kandy city the short walk of Asgiri Maha Viharaya via Bahirawakande hill is an interesting.
 * Udawattakelle forest reserve has lots of treks.
 * The secret Walkers Forest upper Hantane trek is on special permission from the Municipal Council of Kandy.
 * The famous Western Shrines of Kandy Gadaladeniya, Lankathilake temples and Embakke shrine are connected by a very scenic footpath.
 * Other part of the west of Kandy, a part of Portuguese War Route, via Ihalakotte railway station to Dodanwala Devale shrine is passing forest reserves, Alagalle Mountain, tea estates and kandyan traditional villages.
 * East of Kandy city the temples of Gangaramaya, Galmaduwa, Degaldoruwa are all well known for paintings, sculptures and architectural techniques.
 * Knuckles Mountain Range and its forest trails are the most suitable for trekking in Sri Lanka.
 * South of Kandy the longest rice field scenery of the island, Lamasuriyagama the rice field was belonging to royal court of Kandy a spectacular trek. It is undisturbed from electricity wires for photographs and with terrace rice fields by a Loggaloya river with watch huts of farmers. Loggaloya riverine forest trail to Victoria – Randenigala – Rantambe sanctuary is also a very interesting trekking.

Festivals

 * Perahera is the most famous festival in Kandy and one of the biggest festivals in Asia. It usually takes place in August and lasts 10 days. The intensity, duration as well as number of participants (>1000) and elephants increases from day to day. The last five days are most intense with the last day being the longest and craziest procession. It's a pageant where many elephants participate (maybe 50-70). Many elephants will show behavioural disorders and will be led by their mahouts. Specially trained local vets and international doctors will be present.

You can buy expensive seats or can see it with the crowd. Buy a seat from the Queens hotel, which costs around US$40. Buy the tickets from the officials as otherwise through middlemen you will be paying exorbitant prices. Seats in restaurants or cafes on the route will cost around Rs 5000, touts on the street will approach you. People sitting in the street line up early, around midday in front of Queens Hotel and around 4-5pm at other places along the route. Come early to secure a spot. People sit during the whole procession and it standing up is discouraged. Locals usually have a sheet to mark their "spot" and buy food/drinks from the many street vendors.

The perahera starts around 7:30PM (the second cannon shot indicates the start of the procession) and can last well over three hours. A typical procession from one of the last five days consists of dancers, musicians, artists and elephants, separates into five distinct groups (one for each temple). A massive array of police will be present. Special forces will search for explosives before procession.

Buy
There are quite a few road side shoe repairers here. Very skilled, fast and cheap. So if you have any damaged footwear now is a good time to fix them.

Drink

 * There are two popular bars on the main street (Dalada Vidaya), The Pub and The Pub Royale. The former serves quite good (but pricey, perhaps R700/-) meals, has a large screen for sports inside and a 1st floor outside verandah.
 * There are a number of cheap bars (Rs 100 or less for a 650 ml bottle of beer) scattered throughout the sidestreets near the town centre. They can be rather seedy and unaccompanied women could be made to feel very uncomfortable. (Usually Local women do not drink)
 * Victory Hotel, 79 Colombo Road This bar is a great way to see real Sri Lankans and what they do, downstairs is full of locals knocking back Arrack the atmosphere may be less than salubrious, in fact it gives the Sidney Hotel, Galle a run for its money, but the people are friendly. Upstairs is slightly less dingy as it serves food, Arrack starts at Rs 700, beer Rs 195 and a cigarette from a waiter Rs 30.

Sleep
There are many hostels, budget, midrange and splurge hotels in Kandy, where you can stay the night and rest easily.

Budget
There are lots of cheapish guest houses to the south and east of the lake, all an only a short walk from the town centre, and generally clean and friendly.

Hospitals
Major Hospitals and health care centres:



Consulates

 * 🇮🇳 India
 * 🇷🇴 Romania

Go next

 * Dambulla is 60 km north of Kandy and air-con buses to Dambulla costs 150 LKR. With a driver it is possible to do a day trip to Sigiriya (2.5 hour from Kandy)- Dambulla - Matale.
 * Knuckles Mountain Range and its forest trails are the most suitable for trekking in Sri Lanka. It has many nature trails cleared through the forest by forest department with campsites.
 * Matale is 25 km north of Kandy and connected by train
 * Take the scenic train to Ella (or stop at Nuwara Eliya or Haputale along the way)