Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi (Thai: กาญจนบุรี) is a city at the confluence of the Rivers Kwai Noi and Kwai Yai.

Understand
For most visitors the main sight of interest is the Bridge over the River Kwai, as the start of the infamous World War II Death Railway to Burma (now Myanmar), as well as the many associated museums. There is an increasingly thriving backpacker scene taking advantage of the chilled-out riverside vibe for those who want to get away from Bangkok. Kanchanaburi is also the gateway to the surrounding province of the same name. More foreign visitors are discovering why Thais know it as one of the most beautiful provinces in the country with its easily accessible waterfalls and national parks.

Orientation
Orienting yourself in Kanchanaburi is very easy. The main road, Saeng Chuto Road, runs the length of town from north to south, connecting the River Kwai Bridge, the train station, and the bus station. Running parallel to this, closer to the river, is Mae Nam Kwae Road where most of the guest houses and the local bar scene can be found.



By bus
BKS public buses (line 81) leave from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Taling Chan สายใต้ตลิ่งชัน), which is far west in the suburb of Thonburi. In Kanchanaburi, there are two separate but nearby bus terminals, with 1st class buses departing from an office off Saengchuto Rd, and 2nd class buses from the larger terminal one block east.


 * 1st class buses leave Bangkok every 15 minutes from 05:00-22:30, take about 2 hours, and cost 110 baht, including a bottle of water.
 * 2nd class buses (new route) leave Bangkok every 20 minutes from 03:30-19:00 and take about 2 hours. Cost 110 baht. (They now claim that there is no 2nd class bus going to Kanchanaburi, yet there is, but they charge the same price as for the 1st class bus.
 * 2nd class buses (old route) leave Bangkok every 15-30 minutes from 04:00-18:00 and take about 3 hours.

There are also tourist minibuses directly to/from Khao San Road, departing Kanchanaburi at 13:30 and 18:30.

There are also some buses leaving less frequently from Bangkok's Northern Mo Chit bus terminal (note: not the same as Mo Chit BTS station, and not within walking distance of it, although a standard 50 baht motorbike taxi ride is available. It's called "Mo Chit 2"). Here are the times (approximate):

First-class bus with toilet (3 hours, 122 baht): 06:00, 11:00, 14:30.

Second-class bus with no toilet inside (not sure about time and price, times are probably the same): 05:00, 07:00, 09:30, 12:30, 17:00.

Bus rides may be variable or cancelled (for example, with 14:30 being last of the day.) But there are vans available at the bus station leaving even when you're told there's no way to get there by bus! It may pay to talk to the information desk about this. Price is around 120 baht, about 2 hr.

From Nakhon Pathom, there are direct buses (2nd class only) every 15 to 30 minutes between 04:00 and 18:00, which take two hours. Alternatively, you can hop off a 1st class bus when it passes by Nakhon Pathom, but double-check with staff to ensure the route allows this and they know your plans.

From Sangkhlaburi to Kanchanaburi, you're spoilt for choice:


 * Air-con VIP buses leave at 08:45, 10:45, and 14:30 and take 4 hours.
 * Air-con minibuses leave at 06:30, 07:30, 11:30, 13:00, 15:30 and take 3.5 hours.
 * Standard buses leave at 06:45, 08:15, 10:15, 13:15 and take 5 hours.

By train
Trains leave Bangkok's Thonburi Train Station at 07:45 and arrive at Kanchanaburi at 10:20, with another at 13:45, arriving at 16:35. You may be interested in buying a ticket all the way to the River Kwai Bridge, since these two trains are the only ones which cross the bridge each day. 100 baht for foreigners (Dec 2023).

Be warned that reaching Thonburi Station from Khao San Rd is harder than it looks. Tuk-tuk drivers will try to charge you outrageous rates, and walking involves crossing two bridges and looping back. The best way is probably to take the passenger boat from Phra Arthit Pier to connect with a cross-river ferry that reaches the Thonburi Railway Pier (first one M-F 06:00 Sa 07:30 Su 09:00). Then walk or take the open minibus from there. You can also walk a bit away from Khao San Rd and find a metered taxi that will not rip you off. The fare should be about 70 or 80 baht from Khao San on the meter.

Return trains leave at 07:25 and 14:48 from the main railway station. From the River Kwai Bridge they leave 6 minutes earlier. Riding 3rd class is an adventure in itself, and definitely recommended.

Both train services continue to/from Nam Tok, the current terminus of the Death Railway. The normal trains will charge "farang" (Westerners) 100 baht in each direction from Kanchanaburi to Wang Pho, the last station before Nam Tok. Thais pay a lot less.

The 10:30 train has a special tourist section, where the tourist price of 300 baht gets you air-con, a soft drink, and a certificate of having ridden the Death Railway.

One of the least expensive ways to get from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi is to take a train from Thonburi to Ban Pong for 14 baht (same price for Thais and foreigners), then from Ban Pong take an air conditioned bus to Kanchanaburi for 40 baht, a total of 54 baht.

By car
Kanchanaburi is about 3 hours' drive from Bangkok, via Hwy 4 (Phetkasem)from Bangkok until it hooks up with Hwy 323, which will take you all the way to Kanchanaburi.

You can catch a taxi to Kanchanaburi and return to Bangkok for the day for around 1,700 baht. This should include stopping at the bridge over River Kwai and museum, Kanchanaburi township, the local dam and POW cemetery. You may need to pay a bit extra to visit Erawan Falls and the Tiger Temple, which is about an hour out of the town.

By limousine taxi
Bangkok Airport limousines are a comfortable and swift means of travel between Thailand's capitol and Kanchanaburi. Fares in luxury Japanese sedans are typically from 3,000-3,500 baht.

By minibus
Day trips from Bangkok are commonly sold at Bangkok travel agencies. Typically, these include Toyota minibus transport from one's hotel to Kanchanaburi and back (visiting the famous bridge, Erawan National Park, etc., depending on the package), and perhaps lunch and entrance fees. One example: approximately 1,100 baht for transport, lunch, entrance fees to Erawan National Park, and the famous bridge.

Get around
Kanchanaburi is just a little too stretched out to comfortably walk. Small orange and large yellow songthaews (converted pickups) cruise up and down Saeng Chuto, connecting bus station, train station, and the bridge, and charge a standard 10 baht. Motorbike taxis and tuk-tuks are also available, with negotiable prices, and some guesthouses offer bicycle rentals. A number of places in town (mostly along Maenam Kwai Rd) rent bicycles for 50 baht/day, or motorcycles for 150-200 baht, depending on whether it is an automatic. In the area near budget accommodations/guesthouses such as Ploy, you can rent bicycles or motorcycles from Yanee at 197 Maenumkaew Rd. Remember to ask for a map and directions to popular sights.

World War II
Most of the sights in Kanchanaburi itself are directly related to the Pacific War. The museums are dusty and generally not worth it, except for the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre, which gives a good introduction of the Death Railway and its history. There are also two war cemeteries, the most moving of which is the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery.


 * You can cross the bridge on foot on the central steel-plated walkway. There are small cantilevered platforms between the spans for better views and avoiding trains. The guardrails are incomplete, so be careful with small children. Off the end of the bridge, you can feed or ride an elephant bare-back at negotiated price of 600 baht per ride. It's reported that elephant is tethered on a short chain and has to stand in its own waste. Use your judgement.
 * The bridge is still in use and there is a station right next to it. Trains run from Nam Tok (the train line's terminus) to River Kwai Bridge station (a little over 2 hours away) and then onward to Kanchanaburi and Bangkok.
 * Food and souvenirs are available at the bridge.
 * The walk to the bridge is not particularly pleasant (if you fancy a long walk, save it for the less crowded other side of the bridge), but songthaews (10 baht) run along the main road (Saeng Chuto Rd) from the centre. You'll know when to get off when you see the railway line cross the road. Then just follow the track.
 * The walk to the bridge is not particularly pleasant (if you fancy a long walk, save it for the less crowded other side of the bridge), but songthaews (10 baht) run along the main road (Saeng Chuto Rd) from the centre. You'll know when to get off when you see the railway line cross the road. Then just follow the track.















Notable temples



 * Don Chedi archaeological site
 * Giant Tree
 * Kuan Yum
 * Wat Tham Khao Noi
 * Wat Tham Khaopoon, 5 km out of town (past Chongkai War Cemetery). 20 baht entrance fee to cave complex with Buddha images.
 * Wat Tham Mungkornthong
 * Wat Tham Sua

Around Kanchanaburi
The area northwest of Kanchanaburi is dominated by beautiful River Kwai valleys. It is an area of great natural beauty, with a dazzling number of waterfalls, caves, lakes, and mountainous scenery. Most attractions can be visited as a day-trip from Kanchanaburi. Independent travel is possible for most attractions, but can be a hassle as local trains and buses are slow and inflexible. If you want to see Hellfire Pass and the Erawan Falls in one day, it's almost compulsory to take one of the guided tours as there is no public bus connection between them.







Along the Death Railway


While most visitors see the spectacular Erawan Falls, the Sai Yok Noi Falls are more accessible, because they are on the road to Sangkhlaburi. The Sai Yok Yai Falls are further away from Kanchanaburi on the same road. But beside the falls, the national park is home to limestone caves and hot springs as well. And it can easily be combined with the Hellfire Pass Memorial.








 * The Erawan Falls are contenders for the most beautiful waterfalls in Thailand, and a must-see if time and budget allow. Entrance fee is 300 baht for foreign adults and 150 for children under fourteen. The falls are composed of seven tiers, all of which are picturesque and great for swimming. Plan to spend at least two hours hiking plus the time you want to spend swimming in the falls.
 * Don't come unprepared. Wear a swimsuit and bring sunblock, since you'll want to have a dip in the turquoise pools on most levels. Don't forget to bring a towel. When swimming, watch out for fish feasting on the soles of your feet. They won't hurt you and are only looking for a meal on dead skin cells, but the feeling can be disconcerting.
 * Everyone can do the hike, but don't underestimate it. Good shoes will make the trip more pleasant, though flip flops are commonly worn. At the highest levels, one may have to walk through shallow water. The first four tiers are relatively close together and the walk is very straightforward. For the more adventurous, there is a large rock at the fourth tier that can be used as a water slide. Beyond the fifth tier, the hike will become slightly more difficult. The sixth and seventh tiers are not far from each other, but the paths are not well defined at this point, so be sure to look for the hard-to-spot signs. Additionally, beware of hornets at the top tier.
 * Bicycles can be rented at the entrance for 20 baht/hr, however you can only bike to the first level, which is only a 5 min walk, so they aren't really useful. Many Thais don't go further than the second level as beyond this food and beverages, except a water bottle after leaving a deposit, are not allowed.
 * If you walk on the right hill side of the road leading to the park gate, rather than the road itself, you will pass nice bamboo forest and you won't be asked to pay entrance fee, since they collect it only at the toll gate if you enter by main road.
 * Getting there:
 * Public transport: Public Bus 8170 leaves the Kanchanaburi bus terminal every 50-60 min between 08:00-17:50. The fare is 60 baht(Dec 2023) and the ride takes ~90 min. If you stay far away north from the bus terminal, and you probably will, you can just walk to Saeng Chuto Rd from your guesthouse and hail the bus there. A good spot to hail from is right next to the war cemetery. Be sure to get an early bus, since there will be fewer people at the falls and you won't have to hurry to get back. The last bus leaves for Kanchanaburi at 16:30.(August 2023)
 * This bus is small and rudimentary and can get completely full and this can be an uncomfortable experience if you don't get a seat (if you're tall you may not be able to fully stand). For the ride back to Kanchanaburi the schedule is: 08:30, 10:00, noon, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00 (as read from sign at stop, edited 1/2018).
 * Transport tour: Tour agencies in Bangkok commonly sell a package that includes Toyota minibus transport from your Bangkok hotel to the falls and back, with lunch and the park entrance fee of 300 baht included, for 1,100 baht. The packages are generally standardised and non-negotiable in price. Some tours also include a stop at the Bridge over the River Kwai, so inquire.
 * Tour packages that visitors can purchase from the nearby hotels/resorts in Kanchanaburi may include a stop to the Erawan waterfalls and other selected tourist attractions such as elephant riding, bamboo rafting, Tiger Temple and Hellfire Pass. These packages cost around 1,600 baht and include all transportation to and from the resort, park fees, lunch and an English-speaking guide.
 * Sleeping:It is possible to spend the night in the national park, meaning you get to experience the falls without the day tripper crowds. Camping sites are available on a nice green area by the riverside. The national park rents out tents from 50-300 baht (for the biggest). The park also rents out accessories such as sleeping bags, lanterns, and stoves for a very small amount. The accommodation services office is just past the car park. Bungalows are also available from 800 baht.
 * For food, try the market which is a one km walk back up the road towards the highway. There it is also possible to find cheaper snacks, drinks or other items. Just remember to bring your park ticket with you to prove you have already paid. If staying in the park, there are also restaurants on the side of the parking lot of the park. Do note that they close around 18:00-19:00.
 * For food, try the market which is a one km walk back up the road towards the highway. There it is also possible to find cheaper snacks, drinks or other items. Just remember to bring your park ticket with you to prove you have already paid. If staying in the park, there are also restaurants on the side of the parking lot of the park. Do note that they close around 18:00-19:00.







Itinerary
Independent-minded travellers may wish to hire a songthaew at the bus station the day before you want to travel. It should cost between 1,500-2,000 baht, and you tell the driver where you want to go. He will pick you up from your hotel in the morning as part of the deal and return you there afterwards.

For your day out, check out Hellfire Pass and the museum, 80 km from Kachanaburi. Take a couple of hours or more there, then come back along the same road to Nam tok Saiyoknoi waterfall. Erewan Waterfall is too far away for this trip but well worth a look, and there is also an old preserved steam locomotive. From there ask to go to Wang Pho village, and make sure to get the driver to stop at a market along the way to buy bulk peanuts/bananas because you want to see "ling ling" ("ling" is Thai for "monkey", and the repetition means a lot of them) On the road down to Wang Pho, the driver should veer off to the left near the bottom of the winding road leading towards the River Kwai. Here there are millions of wild monkeys or at least an awful lot of them. Enjoy yourself feeding them peanuts or bananas, they are not aggressive. You can watch all the tour buses driving past this little-known attraction. However, feeding monkeys disrupts their natural feeding habits and can make them reliant on humans for food. So, it's probably better just to watch the monkeys in their natural environment.

In Wang Pho village, take time to have a look at the place. The Death Railway has a station here, the final one before Nam Tok. The villagers are friendly, and one stall does a really good fried banana. Then go to Tam Grasae, a cave a couple of kilometres distant where the railway crosses a trestle bridge built by WWII POWs. It appears to be in original condition. The River Kwai is immediately below you, and the trestle hugs the side of the cliff in skirting it. The cave itself is well worth a look. There is a tourist market here also.

On the way back, on the main road to Kanchanaburi, depending on the time you have left, there is a temple on the way back on the right where the monks are friendly to tourists, and then the Tiger Temple on the left further along.

Events and festivals
Mineral Water and Waterfall Bathing Day (งานวันอาบน้ำแร่แช่น้ำตก); held at Hin Dat Hot Spring, at the beginning of November. In the festival, there are booths of agricultural products and tourism exhibition of Thong Pha Phum District. Visitors watching will have a chance to bathe in the Hin Dat Hot Spring and enjoy the view of Namtok Pha Tat.

Boat and Raft People's Day (งานเทศกาลชาวเรือชาวแพ); held every year at the beginning of November at Song Khwae Road near the riverside in front of the city of Kanchanaburi. Activities are folk performances, Thai typical music performance, academic exhibition concerning conservation of rivers and canals, water sports such as riding long-boat, speed-boat and jet-skiing.

River Kwae Bridge Week (งานสัปดาห์สะพานข้ามแม่น้ำแคว); held every year around the end of November until the beginning of December to commemorate the significance of the Death Railway and the Bridge over the Khwae River taking place in World War II. Visitors can see the historical and archaeological exhibition, folk performances, booths of products, entertaining activities, and light and sound show.

Massage
There are many massage parlours along Mae Nam Khwae Rd in Kanchanaburi.



Buy

 * There are plenty of ATMs, with a 150–200 baht surcharge for using foreign cards.

Budget
For cheap street eats, the market in front of the train station will fulfil all your 10 baht pad Thai needs. Street vendors parade up & down River Kwai Rd all day & night. Approximately 20 baht per serving. Many stop outside of 7-Eleven by Jolly Frog selling sausages, roti, and other small snacks. Ice cream and pastries during the day.



Mid-range

 * Good Times Restaurant. Good Times Restaurant is open between 10:00 to 22:00 daily for lunch and dinner. The restaurant, overlooking the River Kwai with beautiful sunset view, is very popular for both locals and foreigners, with both Thai and international cuisines. Cocktails menu and Thai dessert menu. Signatures dishes there include Fried Fish with Fish Sauce Thai Style, Tom Yum Kung and Fried Banana Balls. It's inside a 40-room lodge with a garden and pond. Room rates are between 1,500 baht to 2,300 baht.
 * Good Times Restaurant. Good Times Restaurant is open between 10:00 to 22:00 daily for lunch and dinner. The restaurant, overlooking the River Kwai with beautiful sunset view, is very popular for both locals and foreigners, with both Thai and international cuisines. Cocktails menu and Thai dessert menu. Signatures dishes there include Fried Fish with Fish Sauce Thai Style, Tom Yum Kung and Fried Banana Balls. It's inside a 40-room lodge with a garden and pond. Room rates are between 1,500 baht to 2,300 baht.
 * Good Times Restaurant. Good Times Restaurant is open between 10:00 to 22:00 daily for lunch and dinner. The restaurant, overlooking the River Kwai with beautiful sunset view, is very popular for both locals and foreigners, with both Thai and international cuisines. Cocktails menu and Thai dessert menu. Signatures dishes there include Fried Fish with Fish Sauce Thai Style, Tom Yum Kung and Fried Banana Balls. It's inside a 40-room lodge with a garden and pond. Room rates are between 1,500 baht to 2,300 baht.

Drink
There are many places where you'll be able to enjoy drinks, but most of the bars are close to the guest houses along Mae Nam Kwai Rd. Most of the bars are noisy karaoke bars popular among the locals or the usual British pubs with football on TV. Some bars have young Thai ladies on the hunt for rich foreigners.

Sleep
There are lots of guesthouses, resorts and hotels available. The density increases the nearer you get to the bridge. As usual if you book in advance they will arrange a free pick up service for you. If you haven't done so yet, you should try one night in a raft room floating on the river.

Mid-range




Splurge






Connect
Most of the guesthouses along Mae Nam Kwai Rd purport to have Wi-Fi. Some of the bars lined up along that road also have Wi-Fi.

Go next

 * Bangkok — most visitors get out where they came from
 * Nakhon Pathom — the world's largest stupa makes a good pitstop along the way to Bangkok
 * Sangkhlaburi — last town before the Three Pagodas Pass border crossing into Myanmar
 * Three Pagodas Pass — the border between Thailand and Myanmar, 4 hours away by bus