Kanazawa

Kanazawa (金沢) is a historic city in Ishikawa prefecture, Japan. For travelers who want to see one of the best-preserved major Edo-period cities in the country, it's hard to beat.



Understand
Kanazawa is one of the long overlooked jewels of Japanese tourism — although not by the Japanese, who visit in droves. Its relatively remote location, on the "wrong" side of the island from the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka tourist trail, has perhaps unfairly contributed to it attracting so few foreign tourists. Kyoto's offerings of temples and shrines are all very well, but Japanese history and culture is not just about them. The samurai, the merchants, the geisha, and the lords have all left their mark on Kanazawa in a compact, easily navigable central area. Kanazawa is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Crafts and Folk Art. With the opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo in 2015, the number of foreign tourists increased significantly. English language ability tends to be much more limited than in the likes of Kyoto and Nara, but visitors can take comfort in the fact that locals will nevertheless go to great lengths to help you out.

Don't leave here without seeing the gold leaf craftsmen at work. Many of them are over 90 years old and still putting in a full day's work!



Visit Kanazawa is the city's official multilingual guide site.

Climate
Kanazawa can get a lot of rain — it's "the Seattle of Japan". A local proverb says "even if you forget your lunchbox, don't forget your umbrella". Although the weather can be beautiful in spring and autumn, it is never a good idea to bank on it being fine in Kanazawa, and winters in particular are cold. Kanazawa is in the Snow Country, the area along the Japan Sea coast of Honshu where cold Siberian winds dump large amounts of snow in orographic precipitation, and while it does not get as much as more inland areas, half a meter or more is not uncommon. A common and lovely sight during the winter months is the ropes (called yukizuri in Japanese) hanging down from poles and attached to tree branches to help them support the heavy snow. Most of the main roads have lines of sprinklers down the street to wash the snow away, but the smaller roads often do not.

Orientation
Kanazawa is not a very large city and the main attractions for visitors tend to be concentrated around five neighborhoods.
 * Kanazawa Station and Omicho market. The area stretching between Kanazawa Station and the Omicho market has many modern hotels and stores, but also a plethora of smaller local traditional eateries and craft shops (which tend to be concentrated around Omicho market).
 * Higashi-Chayagai. Located north of the Asano river, the area encompasses the famous geisha district of the same name as well as nice views over the river. The name "Higashi-Chayagai" means "the Eastern tea houses district". There are several nice drinking and eating places, traditional inns and teahouses as well as shops selling local crafts.
 * Tera machi. Located south of the Sai river, the area (whose name means "temple district") houses many Buddhist temples (including the most famous, the Ninja temple) as well as the other main geisha district, the Nishi-Chayagai. The name "Nishi-Chayagai" means "the Western tea houses district".
 * Castle, Kenroku-en Garden and museums. Admittedly a large area, it stretches from the Castle grounds to the north-west to the museum district to the south-east, and has the Kenroku-en Garden in its middle. Most of the city's museums are within this area, including the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, the various prefectural museums, and the D.T. Suzuki Museum.
 * Kohrinbo and Katamachi. This area is perhaps the liveliest in the evening, as it comprises many shops and many drinking and eating places. The western part of the area houses the Nagamachi Samurai District, with its old houses and lovely local craft shops.

By plane
The nearest airport serving Kanazawa is in the city of Komatsu. JAL offers flights into Komatsu Airport from Tokyo Haneda Airport and Okinawa, while ANA flies from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo. IBEX flies regional jets to Komatsu from Narita Airport, Sendai and Fukuoka. There are also international flights from Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei.

From Komatsu airport, buses run directly to Kanazawa (40 min to JR Kanazawa Station, ¥1300; Feb 2023 ). Frequencies vary depending on the flight timetables; buses usually leave soon after the arrival of every domestic flight. Alternatively you could take a bus to Komatsu Station (12 min, ¥280) and a JR train from there, which is somewhat cheaper and, depending on your luck with connections, not much longer. Taxis are frequent though not cheap, and there are several rental car places in the area.

By train
, a futuristic marvel that integrates a traditional wooden temple gate with glass and steel, is served by the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The fastest services, called Kagayaki (かがやき), operate during the morning and evening hours, connecting Tokyo in about 2½ hours. The more frequent Hakutaka (はくたか) makes all stops north of Nagano, taking about 3 hours. Without a Japan Rail Pass, these trains cost ¥14,380 each way for a reserved seat. Seat reservations are mandatory for the Kagayaki.

The Hokuriku Shinkansen continues South from Kanazawa to Komatsu, Fukui and Tsuruga. Connect at Tsuruga for the Thunderbird (サンダーバード) limited express services from Osaka and Kyoto. The Shirasagi (しらさぎ) limited express also runs on this line, but arrives from Maibara, with some trains starting from Nagoya.

All of the above trips are covered by the national Japan Rail Pass. Kanazawa is also covered by the JR Hokuriku Arch Pass which includes unlimited travel between Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka via Toyama and Kanazawa for seven consecutive days using all of the above routes (with the exception of trains between Maibara and Nagoya). The pass costs ¥24,440 if purchased outside of Japan, or ¥25,460 if purchased inside Japan. Unlimited seat reservations in standard cars can be made, but you'll have to pay extra for Green Car and GranClass seat reservations.

JR mainline trains on the Hokuriku line, now duplicated by the Shinkansen, have been transferred to private companies, and the Japan Rail Pass will not be valid unless you travel from Kanazawa to Tsubata Station to connect to the JR Nanao Line.

By car
Kanazawa is served by the Hokuriku Expressway, which runs through the western edge of the city. It has three interchanges: Kanazawa East and Kanazawa West feed into National Route 8, and Kanazawa Morimoto feeds into the Mountainside Loop Road (山側環状線 Yamagawa kanjō-sen). The cost for a normal car from Kyoto-East via Maibara is ¥5,770, and the distance is 245 km (to Kanazawa West). From Suita IC in Osaka it is ¥6,630 and 282 km. From Niigata (Niigata-Chuo) it is ¥6,740 and 297 km. From Edobashi in the capital city of Tokyo, it is 481 km and ¥11,210 to Kanazawa East via the Kan-etsu and Jōshin-etsu Expressways.

The national Route 8 is also a good option for those on a budget or who wish to take a leisurely trip, stopping off to see various sights along the way. It is four-lane for much of the way, and so passing those slow old farmers in their white mini-trucks is possible. There are other routes into the city, such as via the base of Hakusan, or over the hills from Toyama prefecture.

By bus
From Tokyo, JR Bus runs two overnight services from Tokyo Station, with one-way fares starting between ¥3,800 and ¥5,100 for advance purchase depending on the bus. Willer Express runs buses from Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above Shinjuku Station, starting from ¥5,200. Nishi-Tokyo Bus and Hokutetsu Bus operate services from Shibuya and Hachioji starting from ¥5,700. All of the buses take between 8 hr 30 min and 9 hr to reach Kanazawa.

Several other bus operators run daily trips to Kanazawa from cities including Nagoya (4 hr, ¥4,500), Kyoto (4 hr 20 min, from ¥2,800), Osaka (5 hr, from ¥3,000), Niigata (4 hr 30 min, ¥5,000) and Sendai (9 hr, ¥9,670). Highway buses also operate regularly to and from Toyama (1 hr, ¥930).

By bus
Kanazawa has a decent bus system to help you get where you need to go. There are three types of buses: city buses, a tourist bus, and community buses (Furatto-Bus). The tourist bus makes a loop around the main sights in 15 minutes and costs ¥200 per trip or ¥500 daily. There are four community bus routes which make 15-minute loops around different districts of the city and cost ¥100. Buses are wheelchair accessible.

By bicycle
Bicycles can be hired from Kanazawa Station, and due to the winding streets and plethora of traffic lights and one way systems are often the fastest way to travel around town.

Bicycles can also be hired through the Kanazawa City bicycle share program, Machi-Nori. E-Bikes can be picked up at various points around the city, rented for specific time periods or for full days (or months!), and returned to any compatible port in the city.

Check if your hotel offers bicycle rental as well, as some may offer basic bicycle rental at rates lower than many city rental prices!

On foot
As the central city is fairly compact, one of the best ways to get around (at least when the weather is cooperative) is simply walking, exploring the narrow side streets. From east (Higashiyama) to west (Teramachi) would take about an hour at a leisurely pace, though to see everything between them properly would take days.

By car
Driving in Kanazawa is not for the inexperienced. The old city in particular is a labyrinth of narrow twisting streets once you leave the main roads, and you need to be good at judging just how wide your vehicle is at times. Parking in the old city is also at a premium. However the newer areas on the outskirts are car-friendly, and parking is ample. For those using Kanazawa as a base to explore the Hokuriku and Hida regions, renting a car would be a good idea as public transport between some of the more far-flung areas is far and few between.

Talk
English is not as widely spoken as in other bigger cities and many restaurants will only have a Japanese menu. A big smile and a bit of patience will work wonders in these cases. In many cases, the waitperson can probably speak some English if you give them a chance to get over their nervousness.

See
Many of the links below are only available in Japanese. However almost all major tourist sites in Japan have English pamphlets, and Kanazawa is no exception.





Temples and shrines


The river to the south, the Sai River, has on its far bank the main temple district of Teramachi (寺町). One of the more impressive ones in Japan, both sides of the road are lined with imposing walls and looming black-tiled roofs. Its eastern counterpart is the Higashiyama Temple District. In contrast to Teramachi's straight road, the eastern temples are dotted around the hillside in a maze of narrow streets. The Kodatsuno ridge also has a small temple area, dominated by Tentokuin.





Work
As a large and fairly youthful city, there are plenty of opportunities to teach English. Do research and be prepared. It would be unwise to turn up and expect to find legal work easily, however, the better your Japanese ability the better the chances. NOVA, ECC and Berlitz have closed operations in Kanazawa. The Ishikawa Foundation for International Exchange and the Ishikawa International Lounge, both located in the Rifare building close to the station, provide free legal, visa, and financial advice to foreigners (set times only).

Buy


Kanazawa is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network and any of the over 30 local arts and crafts make lovely souvenirs. Japanese-style confectionery also makes a good souvenir.

The city is famed for gold leaf production (金箔 kinpaku) and an interesting and reasonable priced gift is a small box of gold leaf fragments, which can be used to decorate cakes and food or for adding sparkle to cups of sake. Within the station are a plethora of shops selling tourist items. Another area specialty is lacquerware (漆器 shikki) with products available to suit all budgets. Wajima (in Noto) and Yamanaka are two main areas of production.

Kenroku-en is ringed by shops catering to the tourist trade. Just as one would expect, the products at such shops are not typically authentic local goods, but they do have the Kanazawa keychains, postcards, and other knickknack collectibles.

Kanazawa is known as a trendy city, and fashion reflects this. The Tatemachi shopping street is full of stores, many of which house good deals if you look hard enough.



Eat
Kanazawa cuisine is famous throughout Japan, particularly its seafood since it lies in the sweet spot of the hot south and cold north currents. The quality of food is so high, that essentially you'll eat good food whatever the price.

A famous local dish is jibuni (治部煮), made from boiled and seasoned duck and various vegetables. Crab is another local favourite served up during the winter months, common types include the hairless male crab (zuwaigani) or smaller female crabs with eggs still attached. Served cold with a light vinegar or in nabe style hot pots. Sushi made with fish from the neighboring sea is also popular, the sweet shrimps (amaebi) are especially good in this region. In Spring the tiny gray river fish gori is a well known delicacy. Sometimes served deep fried with salt or in miso soup. Eaten whole it is an acquired taste.

Budget

 * 8-Ban Ramen Hachi-ban ramen, founded in Ishikawa in 1971 has outlets scattered throughout Kanazawa including one near the Saigawa Bridge in Katamachi. Cheap, but not known for the quality of its ramen. In fact Kanazawa as a whole is not the place to go for good ramen.
 * 8-Ban Ramen Hachi-ban ramen, founded in Ishikawa in 1971 has outlets scattered throughout Kanazawa including one near the Saigawa Bridge in Katamachi. Cheap, but not known for the quality of its ramen. In fact Kanazawa as a whole is not the place to go for good ramen.
 * 8-Ban Ramen Hachi-ban ramen, founded in Ishikawa in 1971 has outlets scattered throughout Kanazawa including one near the Saigawa Bridge in Katamachi. Cheap, but not known for the quality of its ramen. In fact Kanazawa as a whole is not the place to go for good ramen.
 * Skylark Family Restaurant, a few minutes walk from the station between a car dealership and Toyoko Inn Hotel. Cheap and cheerful Western style food as well as Japanese dishes. Ask for the drink bar option to get unlimited access to the buffet style hot/cold soft drinks for only a couple of hundred yen. There are many other "family restaurant" style places in Kanazawa, from Big Boy to Joyful, though most are out in the suburbs.
 * Skylark Family Restaurant, a few minutes walk from the station between a car dealership and Toyoko Inn Hotel. Cheap and cheerful Western style food as well as Japanese dishes. Ask for the drink bar option to get unlimited access to the buffet style hot/cold soft drinks for only a couple of hundred yen. There are many other "family restaurant" style places in Kanazawa, from Big Boy to Joyful, though most are out in the suburbs.
 * Skylark Family Restaurant, a few minutes walk from the station between a car dealership and Toyoko Inn Hotel. Cheap and cheerful Western style food as well as Japanese dishes. Ask for the drink bar option to get unlimited access to the buffet style hot/cold soft drinks for only a couple of hundred yen. There are many other "family restaurant" style places in Kanazawa, from Big Boy to Joyful, though most are out in the suburbs.

Mid-range
Right next to Kanazawa Station is a new shopping complex called Forus. The 6th floor is dedicated to restaurants and has a very good conveyor style sushi restaurant. No English is spoken but they do have a picture menu and all tables have an electronic menu device. Be aware that if you do not finish all of your food, the Forus restaurants will not give you a box to take your leftovers! Other options include Chinese; Indonesian; Italian and Korean restaurants. Nearly all restaurants have a lunch special in the ¥1000 range.



Drink
While in Kanazawa, don't miss the opportunity to sample tea ceremony tea (抹茶 matcha), served with either an incredibly dry and tasteless sweet (干菓子 higashi) or a rather more appetizing fresh one (生菓子 namagashi). Figure on ¥500-1000 depending on where you try it; the Higashi-Chaya geisha district probably offers the nicest teahouses.

The Katamachi area in central Kanazawa is wall to wall with bars of all shapes and sizes. Some buildings such as the Elle Building are almost exclusively full of hostess bars (often referred to as lounge bars) which may not always be foreigner friendly. Many bars will hit you for a cover charge anywhere upwards of ¥500 per person stretching into thousands. As the competition is stiff bars without a charge will often advertise it quite clearly. The St. Louis Jigger Bar run by Suntory is one such cocktail bar on the corner of the Scramble.



Sleep
The largest concentration of hotels is around the station area including all the usual suspects: ANA, APA, Nikko etc. Toyoko Hotel and Route Inn hotel are two of the newest. For cheaper options, the Kanawaza Ryokan and Hotel Society runs a Yadotime booking engine, also available in English.

Stay safe
As with most if not all cities in Japan, Kanazawa is a very safe place to visit. The central crossing in Kanazawa's Katamachi area (known locally as the Scramble) can get a bit rowdy on the weekends. The worse that is likely to happen is a snide comment or two. The usual common sense rules apply and single female travelers would be wise to keep their wits about them at night-time.

Connect
There are free Internet terminals in the underground plaza just below the station, although they're usually patronized non-stop by the local homeless community getting their online mahjong fix.

In the street directly opposite the main exit of the station, on the right hand side, is the Rifare Building, where the Ishikawa Foundation for International Exchange (4F) and the Ishikawa International Lounge (2F) are found. There is a small library in the building with free use of computers.

Go next

 * Tsurugi small town, 45-min ride away, is a central point in Ishikawa for shinto-related activities. Remarkable during end of the year.
 * Komatsu &mdash; the site of Nata-dera Temple, a favourite among Japanese tourists and a hidden gem for those looking to see beautiful gardens without the big crowd.
 * Noto Peninsula. A rugged and spectacular peninsula jutting out into the Japan Sea.
 * Toyama
 * Mount Haku (Hakusan) &mdash; One of Japan's three most sacred mountains, the others being Mount Fuji and Tateyama.
 * Shishiku Heights Tsurugi Town. Offers freestyle snowboarding during the winter, with a half pipe and selection of jumps and rails. When there is no snow you can rent protective gear and go grassboarding! Another adventurous option is para-gliding.
 * Take the Hokutetsu bus bound for Arimatsu from JR Kanazawa Station's east exit. Get off roughly 20 minutes later at Nomachi bus stop and walk downhill 1 minute to Hokuriku Railway Nomachi Station. Take a train to Kaga-Ichinomiya Station (35 minutes). From here you can take a fairly long walk or catch a taxi to Park Shishiku which is at the base of Shishiku Heights. There is a boarding area for the gondola that will take you up to the mountain top. It is possible to hike down from top during the warmer months. Great views can be had stretching across the Kaga Plain all the way to the Sea of Japan.


 * Tedori Kyokoku (Tedori Gorge). In Hakusan National Park, an ideal place to relax during the humid summer months. Boasting impressive cliffs rising up to 30 m and a roaring waterfall. In the summer, the gorge offers the chance to go rafting and canoeing along the fast flowing Tedori river.
 * Roughly 1 hour by Hokutetsu bus for Shiramine from Kanazawa Station. Get off at Komonbashi or Furobashi bus stop and walk for several minutes. It is clearly signposted in English and easily accessible by car from Kanazawa.


 * Takayama is another of the best-preserved major Edo-period cities in the country