Kampong Cham

Kampong Cham is the seventh largest city in Cambodia, but a relatively small city. It has yet to be heavily visited like Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. It carries with it plenty of colonial French charm, and has a genuine "wild west" feel to it. Most travellers who do find themselves in Kampong Cham are in transit to elsewhere in the country, but those who choose to spend at least a couple of days in the provincial capital will enjoy the laid back atmosphere and quaint charm.

Understand
It is the capital of the province of the same name. Most of the 41,000 residents of the city (2010) are ethnic Khmer, but there is a sizeable Cham minority in the province's towns, including a disproportionately high number of Muslims and Christians.

Because there is little foreign investment and no large scale tourism, this city is very poor, with few modern buildings, though not lacking in French architecture from the colonial period. However, with the completion of a modern two-lane bridge across the Mekong, the city has begun a slow recovery from decades of decline. The people of Kampong Cham are, like all Cambodians, very friendly and open to engaging with tourists.

If projects seem to be improving the state of things here (relative to other Cambodian cities), it may be because Prime Minister Hun Sen and former Phnom Penh Governor Chea Sophara came from this province and the current governor is the PM's brother.

Get in
Kampong Cham has road links to major Cambodian cities, including Phnom Penh. The highway between Kampong Cham city and the capital Phnom Penh runs along the Mekong, and buses frequent this route daily, so you should have no trouble getting between the two cities.

By car
Hwy 7 from Kampong Cham to Skun is in excellent condition and one of the best in Cambodia. Shortly after Skun however, the quality declines dramatically with frequent potholes and unpaved stretches. There is an alternative route to Phnom Penh east of the Mekong.

When travelling from Siem Reap, it may be worth going via Skun due to the better quality of the road instead of the Rte 71 short-cut.

By bus
To get from Phnom Penh to Kampong Cham, there are several bus options. The standard rules for buses apply here. Try taking an early bus, to avoid arriving close to or after dusk, when your choice of accommodation will be limited. The telephone numbers listed here are for locations in Phnom Penh.


 * Sorya, . Approximately US$5, with buses leaving throughout the day at 06:45, 07:45, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 13:15, 15:00, and 16:00. Typically a 3-4 hr trip.
 * GST, . Also US$4.50, but only leaving twice daily, at 09:00 and 15:00 with a 3-4 hr trip.
 * Capitol (air-con), 08:15 and 14:00, 3 hr, US$6

When departing from Kampong Cham, bus stations tend to be found near the roundabout on the main road in the city centre. One is southwest of the roundabout, on the right side. You buy your ticket at the counter.


 * Bus Hoh Wa Genting, . Approximately 7,000 riel, with buses leaving throughout the day at 07:30, 08:10, 09:00, 10:00, 12:30, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 for a 3-4 hr trip.
 * GST Express, at the west end of the boulevard,
 * Rith Mony, on Hwy 7 about 200 m from the Mekong bridge roundabout, has buses to a couple of destinations including Kratie and Phnom Penh. It is generally a bit cheaper than other bus companies but the buses are also a bit older.
 * Capitol, US_4, runs two daily buses leaving Kampong Cham, from near Hwy 7 one block west of the Mekong bridge roundabout. Departing at 08:00 and 14:00 with a 15-minute break. Also takes about 3 hr.

Most minibuses and other non-bus transport leaves from or stops for a short time at the petrol station at the roadside of Hwy 7 close to the Mekong bridge roundabout.

Taxis are a less popular and more expensive method, costing about US$10–15 one way. These do, however, offer more comfort and speed than a bus usually does, but make sure the vehicle's air conditioning is functional before getting in.

Trucks are also an option, but with much less comfort than buses or taxis, and are not advised.

By boat
Update January 2024: there are no longer boats covering the route between Phnom Phen and Kampong Cham. They cancel this service aboit 5 years ago due to lack of customers. Can still book a very expensive private boat from Phnom Phen to KC, but will cost no less than 150$


 * Slow boats don't have a pier, but simply land on the muddy river bank north of the bridge. Buy your tickets (for approximately 12,000 riel to (Kratie) underneath the huge cigarette advertisement. You can sit either on the roof or inside. You're in for a noisy, crowded ride. Get on the boat 1 hr prior to departure. To Kratie it takes about 5-6 hr, with both boats departing throughout the day.


 * There are fast boats on the riverside road, 20 min north on Hwy 7. These are more comfortable. As a result of the competition with road transport, however, there are no scheduled boats going to Kratie and Stung Treng anymore. Occasionally, there might be a fast boat doing the run. To Kratie costs 20,000 riel and takes 3-4 hr.

Get around
The city centre is easily walkable and is found north of the highway. A couple of hotels and Western-style restaurants cluster around the river front and couple of streets further east, is the central market area.

Most of the sites worth seeing are however outside the city, so you're going to need some form of motorized transport.

By motorcycle
An increasing number of visitors to Cambodia are buying their own motorcycles and then reselling them when they leave the country (or return home), and this is a great way to see Kampong Cham. Smaller 110 cc bikes are the ones seen driven by practically every Khmer in the city, while the larger 250 cc bikes are more often driven by foreigners or expats. The smaller bikes are cheaper, but less suited for long-distance travel and are more susceptible to theft. It's your call, though most travellers end up buying 250 ccs. If you choose to buy a 250 cc, expect to pay anywhere from US$500–2,500, depending on the age of the bike.

Vietnam does not admit anything larger than 150 cc, but this will likely change in the near future. There are very few places to rent a motorcycle in Kampong Cham. A few are available from the Mekong Hotel (US$6) or Lazy Mekong Daze (US$5). Both are on the river front to the north of the bridge.

By taxi
There are plenty of motodops offering their service for travel not only within the city, but to outlying areas of the province. For a scant US$4, you can be shown the temples at Nokor Wat, the endless jackfruit fields, and other attractions near the city. If your driver takes you to stalls or shops to purchase souvenirs, he will be receiving commission off of whatever you choose to buy. As usual, bargain with your driver. It's okay to set a price beforehand, but sometimes best to agree on the price afterwards.

There are tuk-tuks in Kampong Cham, but as the city is not nearly as heavily visited as others in Cambodia, such as Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, there won't be many of these, but if you arrive by bus there will be plenty waiting at the bus station.

By bicycle
Some of the larger hotels and guesthouses (such as the KC River hotel, LBN hotel, Phnom bros hotel and Mekong Sunrise) have bicycles for hire. They're a good way to get to Wat Nokor and Phnom Pros/Phnom Srey as well as around the city, or for making a day tour to Wat Hanchey. Be sure to always lock your bike to a tree or leave it with someone trustworthy.

See
Kampong Cham isn't chock full of tourist attractions, but its colonial charm and atmosphere will endear itself to you. There are a few temples to see in the area, and one of the country's mass graves.







Do
Kampong Cham is a sleepy provincial capital, and as such there isn't a whole lot to actually do, and those seeking plenty of activities to keep themselves occupied will become bored within a day.





Buy
Kampong Cham features a few markets, but the best is the one the locals use. It features all sorts of food, ranging from standard mangoes and other fruits, to pig heads and live fish. As with all other food places in the area, use common sense when buying here, as there are health hazards to the unsuspecting Westerner. It's just down the road from the Mekong Crossing restaurant, but stalls only open during daylight hours. Some food and juice stalls stay open until late, around 21:00.


 * Cambodia Public Bank (5-7, Ph Angduong, coming from the bridge turn right at the roundabout from where it is about 200 m) exchange money and has an ATM accepting Visa, MasterCard and Maestro. This is the last ATM when heading north until Pakse in Laos.
 * Canadia Bank, not to be confused with Canada, this bank is wholly Cambodian-owned. This particular branch doesn't take baht, and exchanges money at a slightly poorer rate (approximately 4,000 riel to the US dollar) than you'll get at your guesthouse or on the street. They will cash traveller cheques and offer free advances on MasterCards. Best to avoid unless you need to replenish your supply of US dollars.
 * Acleda Bank (31-33, Ph Khemarak Phomin) also has an ATM but doesn't yet accept international cards. They can change dollars and Thai baht only, but they accept traveller's cheques. Western Union services are also available.
 * Money changers are available throughout the city, particularly in and around the markets - look out for packets of money on display. They will give you a slightly better rate than the banks but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht and Vietnamese dong. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is not possible to change Lao kip.
 * Internet cafes, there are a couple of Internet cafes around town, especially on Ang Duong St between the market and the bridge over the Mekong. The going rate is 2,500 riel per hour.

Eat
The Western-style restaurants cluster at the river front. Budget travellers can get a variety of local foods in the food market just south of Psar Thom. At the north end of Psar Thom are a couple of local restaurants. Beware of hygienic conditions though. Self-caterers find fresh fruit and vegetables at the market, other ingredients can often be found in the surrounding shops. Flour is hard to get.



Drink
All the Western restaurants on the river front also serve beer and often cocktails, have happy hours, and often offer discounts.


 * Riverside beers, in the late afternoon and early evening, food and drink stalls set up shop here opposite the Mekong Hotel right on the river front. Trees line the side of the road, making it a great place to pitch up a hammock, crack open a bottle of Angkor beer, and strike up a conversation with any of the motodop drivers who will congregate here (of course they'll be asking you what your plans are and where you're going the next day). Beers are 2,000 riel a pop, and any of the stands will stay open as late as you want to sell drinks to you.
 * Fresh sugar cane juice is sold on every corner in the city centre area. Some of the sugar cane presses are engine-driven, others require manually turning the wheel. It's fun to watch and makes a refreshing drink. Try out a few vendors since the taste is always a bit different (about 1,000 riel a glass).

Sleep
There are hotels and guesthouses offering decent accommodation options. Although a large number of guesthouses can be found around town, the decent places are concentrated at or close to the riverside. For US$5 you can get a fan room of a comfortable size with TV and private bathroom with water. There are many more guesthouses than mentioned here, especially near the market. They are sometimes, but by no means always, cheaper than a fan room in a hotel but offer tiny and dull rooms in some cases more often rented out by the hour than by night. They are rather a last resort if everything else is fully booked or if you are really on the cheap of the cheap.



Go next
Since many travelers who pass through here are on their way north to Kratie and other areas, the best thing to do is to simply hop on a bus to wherever it is you are going. If you have your own transportation, just get out and drive. Hwy 7 is in good condition all the way up to the border with Laos.


 * Phnom Penh

Two wheels

 * Bicycle and motorbike, Kratie is about a 100-km ride from Kompong Cham along the Mekong. It is mostly a dirt road in good condition so it is possible even by bicycle to reach Kratie in one day. Otherwise stop in Chlong for the night. Take Rte 223 north out of Kampong Cham up to Stung Trang (Preaek Barang), then take the ferry over the Mekong (1,500 riel) and continue along Rte 338. It should also be possible to first cross the bridge in Kompong Cham and take Rte 338 from there but this stretch of road is in a very bad condition (although the first few kilometers are smooth) and not recommended.

Border crossing to Vietnam
The border from Trapeang Phlong in Cambodia to Xa Mat in Vietnam is open to international tourists. On the Cambodian side you have to organise your own transport either all the way from Kampong Cham or take first a Kratie bound bus to Krek and then a motorbike for the remaining 14 km to the border. On the Vietnamese side there are regular public buses running to Tay Ninh a few hundred metres from the border. Visas are not available at the border and the formalities may take a while. People in Kampong Cham may tell you that this is not an international border.