Kamakura



Kamakura (鎌倉市) is a small city in Kanagawa Prefecture, south of Tokyo, Japan. It is a very popular destination among Tokyoites for its beaches, lively center and many temples. It is the perfect place to take a day off from Tokyo's stress.

Understand
Kamakura is a nice seaside town with a relaxed atmosphere. Hard to believe it was the political capital of Japan during the Kamakura shogunate, from 1185 to 1333.

Tourist information site
The local tourist association has a bilingual guide site.

Get in
Kamakura is a very popular day trip from Tokyo for locals and tourists alike, and there are plenty of transportation options.

By plane
From Narita Airport, the fastest and most expensive way to reach Kamakura is to take the Narita Express in the direction of Yokohama or Ofuna, and then change to the JR Yokosuka line for the run to Kamakura. This takes approximately 2 hours and costs ¥4500, although foreigners can purchase a N'EX Tokyo Direct Ticket. This ticket is only sold in a round-trip version for ¥4000. It may be more convenient to change to the Yokosuka Line at intermediate stations, where it is as simple as a same-platform or cross-platform transfer: If the Narita Express terminates at Yokohama, change at Musashi-Kosugi; if it terminates at Ofuna, change at Totsuka.

Regular JR commuter trains depart Narita Airport once per hour: some trains offer one-seat rides to Kamakura station, or else change at wherever the train terminates to the next train bound for Zushi, Yokosuka or Kurihama (About 2½ hours, ¥2210). These trains offer a ¥950 Green Car seating upgrade; Green cars feature more comfortable seats and a drink and snack service.

From Haneda Airport, take any Keikyu Line Express (急行) train bound for Zushi-Hayama or Kanazawa-Bunko, and change at Yokohama station for the JR Yokosuka line (One hour, ¥800).

Or, change at Kanazawa-Hakkei or Zushi-Hayama for Keikyu-bus. Kanazawa-Hakkei~Kamakura (鎌24, Kama24bus) 2 per hour. Zushi-Hayama~Kamakura (鎌40, Kama40bus) 3~4 per hour. Miura peninsula 1 day/2 days ticket (三浦半島1DAY・2DAYきっぷ) (Japanese Only) (From Haneda-airport 1 day ¥1,980 2 days ¥2,200) is useful.

If you plan on staying at a Ryokan it may be a good idea, unless your plane lands in the morning, to spend your first evening in Tokyo or Yokohama, or else you might miss out on (and be charged for) dinner at the ryokan, or worse, you may be locked out of (and be charged for) your room at the ryokan's curfew time, if there is one. If you plan to stay at a budget accommodation, check to see whether or not it has a curfew time.

By train
The fastest way to Kamakura Station is by JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo Station (one hour, ¥920) or Yokohama (25 minutes, ¥330).

An alternative is to take the private Odakyu line from Shinjuku to Fujisawa, then change onto the rattling old Enoden (江ノ電) half-train/half-streetcar line that terminates in Kamakura. The longer (about 90-minute) travel time is compensated for by views of Enoshima island and the Shonan coast. The Enoshima-Kamakura Free Pass will get you a roundtrip from Shinjuku (or other Odakyu, Seibu and Sotetsu stations) and unlimited use of the Enoden line for one day.

Get around
Kamakura is just a little too big to cover on foot, but a network of buses radiates out from the train station. Kotokuin and Hasedera can also be reached by taking the Enoden line three stops out to Hase station. Another option is to rent a bicycle for your tour.

Nevertheless, for the energetic ones, there is a nice hike starting from Jōchiiji temple and ending near the Kōtokuin. You will walk, with some climbing, through forest. The hike also passes through Zeniarai Benten Shrine, if you are curious about the money washing ceremony. The hike takes about 3 hours, if you also stop and visit the temples along the way. Even in summer, the shade on the path manages to keep the temperature bearable. If you are on a day-trip, doing the hike limits a bit the chances of visiting some of the less reachable temples. An easy way to get to Jōchiiji temple is to take the JR Line train from Kamakura station to Kitakamakura Station where the temple can be found by exiting the station, turning left and walking 500 m up the road. The walk starts to the left of the temple and you are not required to pay the ¥200 entrance fee to the temple to start the hike.

By bike
Bicycles can be rented from several locations, though rates are expensive.



See
Kamakura's sights are scattered around the city. Most visitors make a beeline for the Great Buddha and stop off at Hase Kannon on the way; these sights can be very crowded on weekends and holidays.

Central Kamakura

 * A large portion of the site is not wheelchair accessible.



Western Kamakura (Hase)
The following sights are in western Kamakura, mostly near the Enoden Hase station.


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North Kamakura
The artist Isamu Noguchi lived and created ceramics in Kita (North) Kamakura in 1952.


 * Kenchōji (建長寺). The temple is the first of Kamakura's Five Zen Temples, being the oldest in Kamakura (built 1253) and among the oldest in all of Japan. The temple bell has been designated a National Treasure. Also prized is the Zen garden on the grounds.
 * Engakuji (円覚寺). The temple is ranked second among Kamakura's Five Zen Temples, founded in 1282 to commemorate soldiers who fell fighting the Mongol invasion the previous year. The Shariden on the temple grounds houses a holy relic, reputed to be a tooth of the Buddha. Atop a nearby hill is the bell tower and the tea house famous for its tokoroten (sweet cold noodles) &mdash; an acquired taste to overseas visitors as many would find the dish salty and slimy.
 * Meigetsuin (明月院). The temple is nicknamed the "Hydrangea Temple" with the surrounding grounds amply planted with the flowers. The temple is also renowned for the grave of Hojo Tokiyori, approached by a tunnel, the largest of its type in Japan. It is a 10-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station. The temple is open 09:00 to 16:00. Cost of admission: ¥300.
 * Meigetsuin (明月院). The temple is nicknamed the "Hydrangea Temple" with the surrounding grounds amply planted with the flowers. The temple is also renowned for the grave of Hojo Tokiyori, approached by a tunnel, the largest of its type in Japan. It is a 10-minute walk from JR Kita-Kamakura Station. The temple is open 09:00 to 16:00. Cost of admission: ¥300.

East Kamakura
The temples of eastern Kamakura lie off the beaten tourist track and are for that very reason worth a visit. While you can reach these on foot, it's probably wiser to take a bus as there's still a fair bit of climbing to do just to get around the temples.


 * Jōmyōji (浄妙寺). Sample tea ceremony on the cheap here with a ¥500 cup of matcha tea in the gardens.
 * Sugimotodera (杉本寺). Located on a tranquil hillside, the temple is accessed by a newer stone stairway to the left of the even steeper, original steps, well-worn by countless pilgrims through the ages. The altitude affords sweeping views of the town. The temple holds the title as the oldest temple in Kamakura, having been founded in 734. Among its treasures is the eleven-faced statue of Kannon.
 * Shakado Kiritoshi (釈迦堂切り通し). Fifteen min walk from Sugimotodera. As Kamakura is surrounded by mountains on three sides and the ocean on the fourth, the town was easily defended in times of unrest, but the geography also left the town cut-off from neighboring valleys. A network of narrow roads were cut through the mountains, providing the connections but keeping the site defensible. The Shakado Kiritoshi (pass) is one of the roads cut through solid rock. It remains impressive even by today's standards. It has been impassable since April 2010 due to a large rockslide.
 * Hōkokuji (報国寺). Notable for its lovely bamboo grove. You can get matcha here too.

Nearby


Near Taya Cavern, there are some other attractions to see.



Hiking
Kamakura has several hiking trails that can provide relief from the crowds at the more popular shrines and temples. The Daibutsu hiking course starts a few hundred meters down the road from Kōtokuin. The trail has several offshoots that lead to various small shrines and temples. If it has rained recently, the trail could be muddy and there are several steep sections.

From Tokyo, an option is to get off the train at Kita-Kamakura and hike down to the city center or to the Great Buddha via the hills.

Beaches


Kamakura is not just a historical city which has a lot of temples, shrines, and other historical buildings &mdash; there are also some popular beaches in Kamakura. You can feel the atmosphere of the Shonan Coast in the bright sunshine and have a good time there, especially in summer.



Buy
Kamakura is famous for a biscuit called Hatosabure (鳩サブレー), a biscuit shaped like a pigeon. Sold next to Kamakura station and a very popular omiyage (souvenir) among the Japanese.

Alternatively, combine good taste with bad taste by purchasing a pack of Giant Buddha shaped pastries stuffed with red bean paste, sold at the souvenir stands in and near Kotokuin.

Eat


There are a large number of places to eat in the vicinity of the train station. For a snack, try the local specialty, purple potato soft ice cream (murasaki-imo sofuto), which tastes much better than it sounds (or looks). It is made from the purple sweet potato found throughout Japan.

In Komachi street, there is a rice cracker (senbei) shop where you can toast your own senbei. One cracker costs about ¥200.

Drink
During the summer months, many temporary bars are set up on the beach due south from the train station, some of them feature live bands and DJ's and it's generally a very good atmosphere. And don't miss the last train home if you are staying in Tokyo, last minute accommodation late in the evening is simply not an option during the busy summer months.

Sleep
Most visitors daytrip from Tokyo, but there is a pretty good selection of accommodation if you want to spend the night.



Connect
Pick up a useful map of the temples and suggested walking routes from Kamakura station's tourist information office before you head out.

Go next



 * Enoshima, 10 km away at the other end of the Enoden line, is a popular beach for beginner surfers. Local shops along the beach offer lessons and bars and restaurants provide a surfing "scene" at which to hang out. The surf here is not considered to be as high quality as in Kyushu or Okinawa, or even Chiba.
 * Fujisawa
 * Yokosuka
 * Zushi
 * Hayama
 * Miura
 * Chigasaki
 * Yokohama
 * Kawasaki