Kakheti

Kakheti is a region in eastern Georgia, famous for great weather, golden hills, and Georgia's principal wine country.

Cities

 * – One of the centres of Georgia's wine industry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dormition aka Church of All Saints (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museum of Local Lore and History, the Museum of Nato Vachnadze, and the historic mud-cure resort of Akhtala.
 * – A restored wine town with an Old Town, the Pirosmani Museum and an extensive fortifications, as well as the Bodbe Monastery (aka Bodbe Convent or St. George of Bodbe) on its outskirts.
 * – The capital of Kakheti is a convenient base for exploring the region's wineries, castles, and monasteries, in features the palace of King Erekle II, an ethnographic museum and a famous 900-year-old plane tree. Nearby are an old and popular fortress, the Alaverdi Cathedral. Telavi is the basis for exploring the mountains of Tusheti.
 * – Featuring Tsinandali Palace-museum, historic winery which once belonged to the 19th-century aristocratic poet Alexander Chavchavadze, and many trees similar to the very old one found in Telavi.
 * – Known for its Kindzmarauli wine and as the birthplace of Georgian author Ilia Chavchavadze, whose fortified house here is preserved as a local museum.
 * – A wine town known for its white grapes and wine of the same name.

Other destinations

 * – A an infamous part of Georgia, after Russia claimed Chechen terrorists were using it as a base for attacking Russians in Chechnya, but the gorge is now safe and still home to many Chechen refugees–probably the safest place in the world to experience Chechen culture.
 * – A gorgeous mountain region with traditional cultures and great trekking.
 * – One of Georgia's most famous monasteries, with beautiful cave frescos, near the border with Azerbaijan
 * – A pretty border town on the road to Sheki, Azerbaijan, near the beautiful national park with the same name (see below)
 * – A village up in the mountains of Tusheti
 * – A village with many old and unmodern houses, and a big solid theater right in the middle.

Understand
Kakheti (კახეთი) is a historical province in eastern Georgia. Kakheti, and especially the Alazani valley, is the biggest wine region of Georgia and is considered the cradle of wine. The legend states that from here the wine spread all over the world. And indeed, the main attraction of that region, besides the old churches and monasteries, are the hundreds of small and large, modern and ancient wineries, partly still run family owned.

Also read below to better understand the importance of this wine region.

Talk
Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the region, but much of the older generation speak Russian and the younger generation is increasingly speaking English due to hostility towards Russia, and also because English is taught in schools since independence and has replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, as they are more likely to know some English.

If you happen to speak Chechen, you could have a very interesting experience in Georgia's Pankisi Gorge, where many Chechen refugees have set up shanties.

By bus
The bordering Georgian region to the west is Kartli, which has several (mini)buses every day running between Tbilisi and mainly Telavi, Gurjaani or Sighnaghi.

The main route is by Gurjaani, but for Telavi it is faster take the turn before Sartichala and across the Gombori Pass.

Coming from the east, it is possible to enter Georgia (and Kakheti) from Azerbaijan with minibuses from (and to) Qax (Qakh) and Zaqatala, which travel through Kakheti and mostly further to Tbilisi – read there.

By car
There are two options to get into Kakheti from the west. One is highway no. 5 and no. 42 by Gurjaani The other and newer option is highway no. 38, departing shortly after the Tbilisi city border near Vaziani north from highway no. 5. The latter one is via the Gombori Pass and can be slow due to the many turns and serpentines. In winter and with snow it is recommended to take the former route.

The road between Akhmeta and the Georgian Military Highway, via Tianeti, can only be done by 4WD.

Get around
Generally, everything is true what is mentioned under the same section in the Georgia country article.

Within Kakheti, several marshrutkas travel between the major cities and towns of that region. For Tusheti you have to hire a Jeep / 4WD with driver for about 200 lari.

Of course, travelling by car is an option, and so is hitch-hiking.

See





 * Akhali (new) Shuamta (Georgian: ახალი შუამთა; ɑχɑlɪ ʃʊɑmtʰɑ), 3 km from the highway, is a Georgian orthodox nunnery from the 16th century, which was founded by the wife of Kind Levan II., Tinatin, due to Old Shuamta slowly falling apart. Tinatin was also buried in Akhali Shuamta.
 * Akhali (new) Shuamta (Georgian: ახალი შუამთა; ɑχɑlɪ ʃʊɑmtʰɑ), 3 km from the highway, is a Georgian orthodox nunnery from the 16th century, which was founded by the wife of Kind Levan II., Tinatin, due to Old Shuamta slowly falling apart. Tinatin was also buried in Akhali Shuamta.





Do
This region is famous for its wine route, notably Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Kvareli, as well as the hiking opportunities in its three national parks / nature reserves, especially Tusheti.


 * , famous for hiking and bird watching.
 * Hike 73 km along the Russian border from Omalo (Tusheti) to Shatili (Stephantsminda), see Tusheti.

Eat

 * Underneath the Ujarma Castle, there are several picnic tables with fire places, where you can grill your own Mzwadi.
 * Underneath the Ujarma Castle, there are several picnic tables with fire places, where you can grill your own Mzwadi.
 * Underneath the Ujarma Castle, there are several picnic tables with fire places, where you can grill your own Mzwadi.

Drink
Great drinking opportunities await visitors to Kakheti. The most important wine villages are Tsinandali, Kvareli and Anaga. The most important grapes are Saperavi (red) and Rkaziteli (white). Many households produce their own wine, which they will happily offer when visited.

The classical wine production is done in Kvevris, clay jugs, which is the most important distinction from other wine regions like France. Even though modern methods like metal and plastic tanks slowly take over, they are still unwooded and greatly influence the taste of Georgian wine.

Some wineries (especially the Teliani Tsinandali Winery) will give nice, commercial tours to anyone who shows up, whenever they show up, which include wine tasting. As a matter of fact, if you go to any of the wineries and ask for a tour, you will get one, although they may not be very professional about it (and may not charge you anything). Because nearly all of Georgia's high quality wine is exported, and because there are not many tourists in Kakheti, it can actually be impossible to buy wine directly from smaller wineries (even under the table!). Wineries that are not licensed to sell directly to visitors should have an official store nearby, but be sure to call ahead of time to make sure that it is open.

But of course the best drinking opportunities are in the homes of the ordinary people of Kakheti. Nearly every household has its own homemade, usually delicious wine. If you are the least outgoing and speak either Georgian or Russian, chances are you will get invited into someone's home for wine and food – do not pass this up! Your host may also offer you Georgian chacha, an outrageously potent vodka distilled from grapes, which you may indeed want to pass up.



Sleep
Many homestay opportunities exist in this region, ask around or follow the local signs.



Stay safe

 * Hiking in the steppe of David Gareja and Vashlovani, it is important to carry enough water and to put on proper sunscreen. There are only a few shops or wells around. Also pay attention to snakes, some of which can be venomous.
 * Near Lagodekhi, in summer 2012, a group of armed men from Dagestan crossed the border illegally and took several local people hostage. According to Georgian police, the Islamist terrorists were fought successfully and killed, without hurting any of the hostages. Therefore, it might advisable to avoid hiking too close to the border, even though the danger of renewed incidents is very low. Read more on this here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lopota_incident

Go next
There is no onward travel within Georgia, and you will probably return to Tbilisi first and continue travelling from there.

However, if you head southeast past Lagodekhi, you will enter the beautiful Sheki Region of Azerbaijan. There are regular (mini)buses from Tbilisi to Qax (Qakh) and Zaqatala (at least three a day), which you might be able to board along the way if you reserve ahead. There might also exist (mini)buses from Gurjaani or Lagodekhi.