Jerusalem/Old City

The Old City of Jerusalem (Hebrew: העיר העתיקה‎, Ha'Ir Ha'Atiqah, Arabic: البلدة القديمة‎, al-Balda al-Qadimah) is that part of Jerusalem surrounded by the impressive 16th-century Ottoman city walls and representing the heart of the city both historically and spiritually. In a city already divided, the Old City is further divided culturally and historically into four residential Quarters: (clockwise from the southeast) the Jewish, Armenian, Christian, and Muslim Quarters. A fifth area, the Temple Mount/Haram esh-Sharif, contains the Dome of the Rock, Al-Aqsa Mosque, and other Muslim religious sites, and was once the site of the Jewish Temple. The whole Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Districts
In clockwise order, starting in the south:

Understand
The core of Jerusalem, the Old City, has a history that stretches back more than 3,000 years. The present street plan dates largely from Byzantine times, with the walls and ramparts dating back to the 16th century. The crossroad of three continents, Jerusalem has been one of the most fought over cities in human history. Within the walls, the Old City is divided into four vaguely defined quarters: Christian, Armenian, Jewish and Muslim.

You do not need to be Jewish, Christian, or Muslim, or even be overly concerned with religion, to be overwhelmed. With archaeology dating back to the time of the Bible, anyone with a sense of history, spirituality or the human species should be absorbed by the tremendous weight of human civilization that cloaks nearly every part of the city. It is an inhabited, living city - not a deserted museum or monument. Humanity's passion play has been constant revival at this location for most of the length of recorded history.

Get in
The Old City is surrounded by a wall built in the first half of the 16th century by the Ottoman Turk, Suleyman the Magnificent. The 4-km (2.5-mile) circuit is accessed by eight gates, of which seven remain in current use. The gates are, in clockwise order starting in the west:

By light rail
The Jerusalem Municipality usually recommends light rail as the best way to get to the Old City, particularly on holidays when there are many visitors. Each station is about a two-minute walk from the Old City walls.


 * (העיריה) is the closest station to Jaffa Gate and the New Gate. It should be used for the Christian, Armenian and Jewish Quarters.
 * (שער שכם) station is the closest to the Damascus Gate. It should be used for the Muslim and Christian quarters.

By bus

 * 1: Central Bus Station - Sarei Yisrael - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Meah Shearim - Damascus Gate - Western Wall
 * 2: Mamilla - Jewish Quarter Parking lot - Western Wall - Mamilla. A "Touristic" bus with a circular route that serves the tourist spots in the Old City and nearby it.
 * 3: Central Bus Station - Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Ezrat Torah - Shmuel HaNavi - Damascus Gate - Western Wall
 * 38: Jewish Quarter Parking lot - First Station - King George St - Davidka Square - Mamilla - Jewish Quarter Parking lot.
 * 83: Western Wall - Mount Olives neighbourhood
 * 218: Ramallah/Al-Bireh - Qalandia - Beit Hanina - (almost) Herod's Gate
 * 231: Bethlehem/Beit Jala - Talpiot - Jaffa Gate - Damascus Gate
 * Other East Jerusalem - buses with blue stripes all terminate near the Damascus Gate; buses with green stripes all terminate 2 minutes walk from Herod's Gate.

By car
If you arrive by car, be aware of the limited parking space. The streets outside the Old City walls are usually reserved for buses and taxicabs; parking of private cars is prohibited.



With a private guide
There's no doubt that Jerusalem is overwhelming not to mention scattered. If you only have a day or two to see the city and you'd like to visit many places in a short time, hiring a local private guide that has his own van might be the right thing for you instead of dealing with a rented car & parking for those days. (Note that there is virtually no vehicular access to the Old City, which is most conveniently accessed on foot and is within walking distance of many hotels in the New City.) However, when choosing a guide, try to ask the right questions and advise him/her with a plan that will fit your interest. You'll know the person is a good private tour guide if they will tailor a tour according to your needs.

Get around
The Old City is fairly diminutive in size compared to modern-day Jerusalem. Despite its small size, or perhaps because of it, the Old City is amazing. Much of the Old City is accessible only by walking because of very narrow streets and steps in the road. This is not a great inconvenience because the Old City is only about 1 kilometer across. The Old City is a maze of twisty alleyways and it's difficult to keep your bearings even with a map. Then again, getting lost is half the fun&mdash;you can't get too lost due to its size. Thought should be given to footwear, as the roads and paths are uneven stone and thin-soled shoes or spike heels could become uncomfortable.

Note: The Old City contains many small alleys and tiny streets that often do not appear in guidebooks and street maps. Major roads are almost always signed, so do not simply rely on the map and take the next left/right as it may not be the road you are looking for.

Jewish Quarter
The Jewish Quarter feels distinctly different from the rest of the Old City. Razed by the Jordanians after the partition of the former British Mandate of Palestine in 1948, most buildings in it have been rebuilt from scratch since Israel assumed control of the Old City in 1967. Despite strict laws mandating the use of Jerusalem limestone in all façades in order to maintain uniformity, the buildings look and feel new.

Armenian Quarter
The Armenian Quarter is the smallest and quietest of the four. The quarter runs itself as a city within a city (within a city...), shutting the gates of its courtyards when night falls.



Christian Quarter


The Christian Quarter, the result of rapid expansion under Byzantine rule, is in the northwest corner of the city and is home to a bewildering array of churches, patriarchates and hospices of the city's many Christian denominations. The quarter is served by the Jaffa Gate and the New Gate.



Muslim Quarter
The Muslim Quarter is the largest and most densely populated quarter of the Old City. The quarter has changed hands many times from the 12th through 15th centuries, resulting in decay since the 16th century. It is one of the most fascinating and least explored parts of Jerusalem. The Temple Mount/Haram al-Sharif is described separately (below).

Temple Mount/Haram esh-Sharif


The Temple Mount (Hebrew Har HaBayit, הר הבית) or Haram al-Sharif (Arabic: حارم الشريف, literally Noble Sanctuary) is the most important site in Judaism and the third most important site in Islam. It is the site of the First and Second Temples from the Jewish and Christian Bible. The site's massive rectangular platform (of which the Western Wall is one wall) was built by Herod the Great. Now the site is a showcase for Islamic architecture and design from the Umayyad to Ottoman times, and is an important religious and educational center for Muslims to the present. Encompassing over 35 acres of fountains, gardens, buildings and domes, it is crowned by the magnificent Dome of the Rock, which stands on the site of the ancient Jewish Temples.

Entering the Temple Mount (Haram esh-Sharif) for non-Muslims is through an elevated wooden walkway leading to a gate called Mughrabi Gate (Moor's Gate), on the south-eastern corner of the Western Wall Plaza in the Jewish Quarter. The entry to the Temple Mount itself (not the mosques) is allowed to non-Muslims only at certain hours and is free of charge (see the caution note above).

Some rabbis consider it forbidden or at the very least religiously unadvisable to enter the Temple Mount as the Holy of Holies is/was somewhere on the Mount. While the Temple stood, this area was off-limits to anybody not a priest of the Temple (and even they could only enter it at certain periods). As the protection of the Holy of Holies was – according to that view – never revoked, one could accidentally blaspheme by standing in the wrong place. However, there are also Jews who disagree with that view or who claim to know where the Holy of Holies is/was or who do not care about the religious implications. Nevertheless, it is better to know and make an informed choice.

It is hard to see the majestic buildings on the Temple Mount from the rest of the Old City (unless you know a local inhabitant who lets you onto their roof). An alternative is to look across from the Mount of Olives.

The sights of the Temple Mount (Haram esh-Sharif) which are permitted only to Muslims:



Christian Quarter

 * Walk the Via Dolorosa - the "way of sorrows" traditionally traces the last steps of Christ from where he was tried to Calvary, where he was crucified, and the tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where he is said to have been buried. There is no historical basis for the 0.25 km (0.16 miles) route, which has changed over the centuries. Nevertheless, pilgrims traditionally walk the route, identifying with Jesus' suffering. Along the route are 14 Stations of the Cross, each connected with a particular story or event. "Guides" hanging around the beginning of the Via will give you a tour for a small fee, accompanied by informed commentary, but this is not necessarily the best plan. Paying a token amount to get yourself started is not a bad plan, but if you have a guide book you can likely handle it better on your own from there, due to the crowded and winding nature of the Via through the Old City's narrow streets. Not all the guides are as respectful of the religious sites along the Via Dolorosa as they could be, sometimes walking headlong into occupied churches mid-service.
 * First Station - Jesus is condemned to death. The traditional site of the Roman fortress where this took place lies inside a Muslim college.
 * Second Station - Jesus takes up his cross after his flagellation and coronation of thorns. This takes place in front of the Monastery of Flagellation.
 * Third Station - Jesus falls beneath the weight of his cross. This is commemorated by a small chapel with a marble relief above the door.
 * Fourth Station - Jesus meets his mother Mary. A sculpture above the door of the Armenian Church of Our Lady of the Spasm represents this.
 * Fifth Station - Simon of Cyrene is ordered to help carry the cross of Christ. This point at the start of the ascent to Calvary is marked by a Franciscan oratory.
 * Sixth Station - Veronica wipes away Jesus' blood and sweat and her handkerchief reveals an impression of his face. This story, not recorded in the Bible, is commemorated by The Chapel of St Veronica.
 * Seventh Station - Jesus falls for the second time, as indicated by a large Roman column in a Franciscan chapel.
 * Eighth Station - Jesus consoles the women of Jerusalem (Luke 23:28), and is marked by a Latin cross on the wall of a Greek Orthodox Monastery.
 * Ninth Station - Jesus falls for the third time. This place is marked on a Roman column at the entrance to the Ethiopian Monastery.
 * Tenth to Thirteenth Stations - These four stations (Jesus is stripped of his clothes, nailed to the cross, dies, and is taken down from the cross) are all in the place identified as Golgotha (Calvary) within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
 * Fourteenth Station - the Holy Sepulchre itself, the purported tomb belonging to Joseph of Arimathea who asked Pilate for Jesus' body.
 * Attend a church service, if you're that way inclined.... For Christian services and addresses of churches (most denominations are represented in Jerusalem), call the Christian Information Centre, Jaffa Gate,, open M-Sa 08:30–13:00

Buy

 * Souk Khan al-Zeit and El-Wad streets are the main arteries of the Muslim Quarter. Souk Khan al-Zeit begins just east of the Muristan while El-Wad begins at the outlet of the tunnel to the Western Wall Plaza, with both leading north towards the Damascus gate. While these streets contain numerous souvenir shops and cafes catering to tourists, the majority of shops serve the local population. Butchers, Western clothing stores, hardware shops, and groceries can be found throughout the area.
 * The Suq El Attaria is the primary shopping area in the Arab quarters of the Old City. You will find shops ranging from souvenirs to greengrocers to traditional clothing.
 * The lanes and alleys in and near the Christian quarter abound in shops displaying icons and other churchy items. The quality ranges from kitsch to alright - and prices are mostly grossly inflated. Credit card scams are not unknown. Shop proprietors are seasoned masters at gentle but effective commercial manipulation - inviting bypassing tourists into their shops, involving them in innocuous conversation and directing them into 'you must buy this' situations.
 * The Old City of Jerusalem is known for its Armenian ceramics. With white and a rich blue as the base colors, and bright paintings on them, they are a distinct souvenir. The street signs throughout the old quarter are made of Armenian ceramics, and a few shops will produce custom nameplates and tile signs with a short turnaround time. Ceramics from Hebron are also popular with tourists.
 * The lanes and alleys in and near the Christian quarter abound in shops displaying icons and other churchy items. The quality ranges from kitsch to alright - and prices are mostly grossly inflated. Credit card scams are not unknown. Shop proprietors are seasoned masters at gentle but effective commercial manipulation - inviting bypassing tourists into their shops, involving them in innocuous conversation and directing them into 'you must buy this' situations.
 * The Old City of Jerusalem is known for its Armenian ceramics. With white and a rich blue as the base colors, and bright paintings on them, they are a distinct souvenir. The street signs throughout the old quarter are made of Armenian ceramics, and a few shops will produce custom nameplates and tile signs with a short turnaround time. Ceramics from Hebron are also popular with tourists.

Prices for snacks, water, and other drinks are inflated in the Jewish Quarter and near the Jaffa gate and the Muristan. As you move closer to Damascus Gate you can find 1.5-liter bottles of water for ₪5, while a 0.5-liter bottle may cost you as much as ₪9 in the more touristy areas.

Eat
The Old City tempts the taste buds with Arabic, Jewish, Mediterranean and International fare. Visitors on the go can grab food from street vendors, while those desiring a more formal meal can find numerous restaurants scattered throughout each quarter.

Common appetizers and quick treats may include Kibbe, an oval-shaped croquette of cracked wheat filled with meat and onions; Hummos, a chickpea paste with olive oil; Tabuleh, finely-chopped parsley with tomato and cucumber; and Tahini, a sesame seed paste with parsley, oil and garlic.

Main dishes usually consist of lamb or chicken meat with occasional beef, but never pork. Meats can be cooked in a variety of ways, but is most often cooked on a spit. Take-away restaurants offer favorites like falafel (deep-fried balls of mashed chickpeas) and shwarma (lamb grilled on a spit and eaten in flat bread).

Dessert options range from exotic or citrus fruits to sticky, sweet Middle Eastern confections. Baklava is a layered pastry filled with powdered pistachio and covered in honey or syrup. Kanafeh, a recipe that differs throughout the Middle East, is served in Jerusalem as pistachios in a crisp coating of pastry threads.

An issue that may be confusing to many travelers is the issue of Jewish dietary laws, or Kashrut. These laws state that certain meat is considered impure (anything that does not chew the cud and have a split hoof, including pork and rabbit), as well as certain types of seafood (anything without scales or fins). Animals that are permitted for consumption have been slaughtered according to Jewish religious practices and cleansed of all traces of blood before cooking, allowing the food to be declared kosher. Other complications revolve around the fact that meat and dairy products can never be eaten together in the same meal. In Jerusalem you will find that all types of restaurants can be kosher, not just Jewish ones.

Jewish Quarter
Ask if there is a discount or ask for the 'harova' discount. This is for people who are living or staying inside the Old City, but merchants don't know where you are staying or how long you have been here. If you are feeling cautious, say you are staying at the Heritage House. You can ask for the discount in English as there are many Anglophone guests and residents.

Be careful where you sit. There are dairy and meat only eating areas.



Muslim Quarter
Some of the best and cheapest falafel and shwarma joints can found on Saladin Street, just outside Damascus Gate. In addition to the restaurant listed below, there are numerous of pushcarts and stands right outside the gate serving fresh off the grill (and into a pita) food for around ₪6 a serving (usually not kosher).

There are plenty of small Arab restaurants in the Old City but in January many closed at nightfall. (They are of course Halal.)


 * The restaurant in the Austrian Hospice is reputed to be poor and pricey. (It has a nice garden though.)
 * The Arabic restaurant at the Jerusalem Hotel, and the little upstairs restaurant just round the corner from there, on Nablus Road just outside Damascus Gate, are recommended.

Drink
Coffee and tea are the two most common drinks among Jews and Arabs, although each has a preferred way of making it. In Jewish areas, coffee and tea are drunk in European or American-style cafés. Espresso is offered, but is weak compared to katzar, a stronger coffee. In Arab areas, coffee (qahweh) is served thick and strong and is meant to be consumed in small sips. If Western-style coffee is preferred, ask for Nescafé or filtered coffee. Tea (shay) is stronger than Western-style tea and is drunk with lots of sugar. If Western-style tea is preferred, ask for shay Libton (Lipton tea).

Fresh pomegranate (and grapefruit) juice is available all over the Old City. Prices start from around ₪10 (October 2018) for a 0.3 liter cup, any price beyond ₪15 (October 2018) for 0.3 liters (not 0.2) is a rip-off. The price in Hebron, by contrast, is ₪2.

Bottled water is inexpensive (usually, be careful where you buy) and readily available throughout the Old City. Carrying an extra bottle of water is recommended due to the dry, dusty climate.

Some restaurants serve alcohol. The main beers are Israeli Maccabee/Goldstar and Arab Taybeh beer. Spirits are less widely available but are commonly sold in hotel bars.

Sleep
Accommodation within the Old City itself is distinctly downmarket. Be sure to investigate people renting out private residences.

Budget
For those on a tight budget, youth hostels are ideal (although occasionally somewhat dodgy), and often the cheapest places to stay in Jerusalem. Religiously-based hospices and guest houses, located mainly near the holy sites, is a popular and inexpensive alternative to hotels. Hospices and guest houses tend to maintain stricter rules than hostels.



Splurge
The facilities in the Old City are recommended for those on a tight or mid-range travel budget. For those looking to splurge on accommodations, there are quite a few recommended locations in modern parts of the city, particularly West Jerusalem.