Izmir

İzmir is a port on the Central Aegean coast of Turkey, known in antiquity as Smyrna. It's the country's third-largest city, with a population of 3.12 million in 2024.

History
There are lots of little coves and harbours along Turkey's Aegean coast, but ancient Smyrna stood at the head of a broad inlet sheltered from winter storms, with a fertile hinterland and good inland trade routes. It suffered earthquakes and warfare, but didn't silt up and could accommodate large vessels. Thus it outgrew other ports and is now the modern bustling city of Izmir.

This Smyrna was 5 km north of the present centre, in what is now the suburb of Bayraklı, and founded about 3000 BC by the Trojans. In folklore it was the birthplace of Homer, the 8th century BC author of the Odyssey, which describes a war between Greeks and Trojans 500 years earlier. No-one really knows where Homer lived, but a major harbour city is as good a guess as any. By his day Smyrna was settled by the Aeolians from mainland Greece, who were superseded by another Greek tribe the Ionians. The Lydians destroyed the city around 600 BC before a recovery under Alexander the Great from 334 BC.

Alexander’s successors re-built Smyrna on and below Mount Pagos, nowadays Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was wrecked by an earthquake in 178 AD but again rebuilt into a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving city and a huge trading centre, in spite of frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with a majority of Greek Orthodox plus many Jews, Armenians, Muslims, Italians and French, each injecting their own culture, language and cuisine.

The battlefronts of World War I lay elsewhere in Turkey, and the city remained multicultural. This was not for want of trying by the Ottoman rulers, who in 1915 set about a systematic extermination of the Armenians, and the word "genocide" was first coined to describe this. Meanwhile the Allies promised control over Smyrna both to Italy and to Greece as a reward for joining their side. When the guns fell silent and the Ottomans were defeated, it was Greece that had control over a large swathe of territory along the Aegean coast. But Greece aspired to much more, and marched on Ankara; they got within 100 km before being checked then repulsed by the Turks under Kemal Atatürk, in what became the War of Turkish Independence. His forces took Izmir on 9 September 1922 and this is celebrated as the date of the city's independence, but liberation soon degenerated into massacre of non-Turks. Ethnic minority property was torched, and on the 13th this escalated into a huge fire that claimed over 100,000 lives and destroyed much of the city.

The new reality on the ground necessitated a new peace deal, and the 1923 Treaty of Lausanne restored the mainland including Smyrna to Turkey, while Greece retained most of the islands. There was compulsory re-settlement of minorities, so the Greeks were deported to Greece, while Turks in Greece (especially around Thessaloniki, Atatürk's own birthplace) were deported to Turkey. Surviving Armenians fled to Beirut and Egypt. This ended the multicultural nature of the city and of the whole country.

Climate
Izmir has a subtropical Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot and rainless yet humid, so July and August highs of 30-35°C feel more like 40°C.

Winters are mild to cool, around 14-18°C with occasional downpours. Freezing snaps occur on clear, windless nights but without snowfall, and occasional snow flurries don't linger.

Spring and fall are warm and pleasant and generally the best time to visit. Beach holidays are best in fall, as the sea temperature lags a month or so behind the land, and is a balmy 20°C in September and October.

By plane
To town:
 * İzban suburban trains run every 10 mins to Alsancak Station north of city centre. Change at Hilal for the metro downtown - this station and its surroundings are messy and not easy to navigate. You need an İzmirimkart (below) for the train and subway.
 * ESHOT bus 202 runs hourly round the clock to Republic Square, taking most of an hour. You need the İzmirimkart to ride it.
 * Bus 200 runs north to Mavişehir, Bus 204 runs to Bornova metro station, and Bus 206 goes to Şirinyer Aktarma in the southern district of Buca.


 * HAVAŞ buses here are similar to the other airports they serve: their website oozes corporate guff about transport solutions, and is too cool to publish timetables or fares.

By train
Izmir is not yet on Turkey's high-speed YHT network, so trains are a ponderous overnight affair, when daytime buses cover the distance in half the time. A high-speed railway is under construction and might open by 2027, though 2207 seems just as likely. Until then, the main services (all daily) are:


 * İzmir Mavi ("Izmir Blue Train"), 14 hrs overnight from Ankara via Eskişehir (which has YHT trains, but not at night) and Kütahya, departing around 18:00.
 * Konya Mavi ("Konya Blue Train"), 12 hrs overnight from Konya (which has YHT trains, and connections for Adana and Antalya), via Afyon and Manisa, departing around 19:30. Most coaches have seats only and sleepers may be out of supply for the nearest dates.
 * Ege Ekspressi, 9½ hours daily from Kutahya via Tavsanli, Balıkesir, Soma, Akhisar and Manisa, departing around 09:30 and returning north at 06:30.
 * Göller Ekspresi ("Lakes Express"), 8 hrs overnight from Isparta via Denizli (for Pamukkale), Nazilli, Aydin and Selcuk (for Ephesus and Kuşadası), departing around 22:00. No sleepers available.
 * 6 Eylül Ekspresi ("6th of September Express"), 6½ hr daily from Bandırma (with ferries from Istanbul) via Balıkesir and Soma, departing around 08:00.

Buy tickets at the station, or in theory online, but the TCDD website has been broken for many months.

By boat

 * "We then sailed on up the narrow strait with wailing. For on one side lay Scylla and on the other divine Charybdis terribly sucked down the salt water of the sea."
 * - Homer's Odyssey Book 12 Line 234
 * - Sail close to Scylla, she devours six of your crew for sure but the rest get through. Charybdis may let you through or suck down the entire ship. Which do you choose?

As of 2024 there are no ferries to Izmir beyond local services round the bay; no blame attaches to Scylla or Charybdis. See Çeşme for the ferry from Chios.



By bus
Buses from Istanbul run hourly round the clock, taking 8 hours, for a fare in 2024 of 1100 TL. They may call on the way at Gebze, Bursa, Balıkesir and Manisa.

From Ankara buses also run hourly, taking 8 hours via Afyon, Uşak and Salihli (for Sardis). From Adana takes 14 hours via Konya.

Bus lines include Metro Turizm, Pamukkale and Flixbus.

By road
From Istanbul follow O-5 toll motorway all the way. It's 480 km, say 5½ hours allowing for traffic at each end.

From Ankara is 590 km, eight hours along E96 via Afyon and Uşak.

On foot
You can explore Izmir's inner city by walking.

By bus
ESHOT is the city transport combine. Its bus routes span this region, all the way for instance to Bergama.

İzmirim Kart is the contactless smart card used for all modes of public transport, available from multiple locations including the airport, ferry piers, and railway and metro stations. Each use is valid for 90 min, including one interchange on tram, train and metro but not buses. In 2024 a city centre bus journey costs 8.78 TL then a first transfer is 3.50 TL. On trains it initially charges the fare for the maximum possible distance but refunds when you swipe out.

By train
IZBAN railway (shown in green) runs north-south:
 * South Line runs from Tepeköy (for Torbali) in the south via the airport and Menderes town to Hilal (for Metro) and Alsancak (for trams, city ferries and the North Line).
 * South Line Extension runs from Tepeköy to Selçuk, for Ephesus.
 * North Line runs from Alsancak to Turan, Mavişehir (for trams), Çiğli, Menemen and Aliağa (for connections to Foça and Bergama).

on Şehitler Cd is terminus for the IZBAN railway, and has trams. No Metro or mainline trains run here.

Metro (shown in blue) runs east-west, from Bornova to the east via Halkapinar interchange (for trams and North Line), Hilal (for South Line), Basmane (for mainline trains) and Konak to Fahrettin Altay (for Göztepe and Balçova town).

Trams (shown in red) have two separate loops:
 * City centre and south shore: from Halkapinar interchange to Alsancak, Konak, Göztepe and Fahrettin Altay.
 * North shore: from Alaybay to Bostanli, Atakent and Mavişehir.

All three rail systems have extensions under construction or in planning.

By boat
Izdeniz Ferries criss-cross the city inlet, a cheap, fast and pleasant form of transport.

By taxi
There are many taxis with reasonable prices and no night rate. Turkish taxis are not allowed to go outside province they are registered at. Meaning an Izmir-registered taxi (registration starting in 35) cannot go beyond Izmir provincial boundaries.

See

 * is the city's main square and gives its name to the central district. Konak means a mansion, and the provincial governor's mansion stood here. The clocktower (Saat Kulesi), erected in 1901, was one of dozens across the country marking 25 years of the reign of Abdul Hamid II (1842-1918). Neither clocktower nor Hamid fared well in later years, but at least the clocktower has been repeatedly restored, while the Ottoman Empire decayed into "the sick man of Europe". Hamid was deposed in 1909 to spent his last years under house arrest, with no escape from the recriminations of his wives and consorts, who numbered almost as many as his commemorative clocktowers.
 * Konak Mosque is a dinky little mosque within the square. It's octagonal, built in 1755 and decorated with Kütahya tiles, with a single entrance for both men and women.
 * was built in 1905. It's named for the fellow who endowed it, an Islamic judge.
 * Toy Museum is at Birleşmiş Milletler Cd 8, 100 m west of the Archaeological Museum. It's open Tu-Sa 09:00-17:00.
 * was built in the 1590s and is a striking example of Islamic architecture.
 * Şadırvanaltı Mosque 100 m east on 892nd Sk was built in 1636.
 * Başdurak Mosque was built in 1652. It's on 873rd Sk within Kemeraltı Bazaar.
 * Kemeraltı Mosque on the west side of the Bazaar was built in 1671.
 * Bazaars: see "Buy" for Kemeraltı and Kızlarağası Hanı next to Hisar Mosque.
 * Kemeraltı Mosque on the west side of the Bazaar was built in 1671.
 * Bazaars: see "Buy" for Kemeraltı and Kızlarağası Hanı next to Hisar Mosque.
 * Women's Museum displays the lives and achievements of Anatolian women. It's at 1298th Sk 14 near Basmane station, open Tu-Sa 09:00-17:00, free.
 * Atatürk Monument is the centrepiece of Cumhuriyet Meydanı, Republic Square, in front of the Swissôtel. It was erected in 1932; the great man lived to 1938. "Orduların, ilk hedefiniz Akdeniz'dir. İleri!" are his stirring words on the base: “Armies, your first target is the Mediterranean Sea. Forward!”. With only 60 m further to go, this is an easier objective than when he uttered those words in 1922, with the Greeks at the zenith of their advance and the backs of the Turks against the threshold of Ankara.
 * Mask Museum displays 50 masks from around the world. It's at 1448th Sk 22 a block east of Atatürk Museum, open Tu-Sa 09:00-17:00, free.
 * Alsancak (also called Punta or Reşadiye) is the district west of the History Museum and Alsancak Station, a grid of small streets with lots of cafes and bars in old Greek houses.
 * Mask Museum displays 50 masks from around the world. It's at 1448th Sk 22 a block east of Atatürk Museum, open Tu-Sa 09:00-17:00, free.
 * Alsancak (also called Punta or Reşadiye) is the district west of the History Museum and Alsancak Station, a grid of small streets with lots of cafes and bars in old Greek houses.
 * Alsancak (also called Punta or Reşadiye) is the district west of the History Museum and Alsancak Station, a grid of small streets with lots of cafes and bars in old Greek houses.
 * Alsancak (also called Punta or Reşadiye) is the district west of the History Museum and Alsancak Station, a grid of small streets with lots of cafes and bars in old Greek houses.

Further out

 * Izmir Zoo is next to the bird reserve, open daily 09:00-18:30.
 * Izmir Zoo is next to the bird reserve, open daily 09:00-18:30.
 * Izmir Zoo is next to the bird reserve, open daily 09:00-18:30.

Do

 * "I know the blasphemy of them that say they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan."
 * - Smryna was one of the Seven Churches of Asia, and in Revelation 2, St John of Patmos flays them all for back-sliding and laxity.


 * Kordon is what everyone calls the waterfront promenade of Atatürk Cd. It's lined by tall apartments and palm trees on one side and the Aegean on the other, with a broad strip of lawn and a cobbled street between, where you can have a 19th-century fayton (horse-drawn carriage) ride.
 * Beaches: not downtown, which has a pleasant waterfront but not a beach. You need to get 20+ km west to the suburb of Güzelbahçe, and the coast improves further west towards Çeşme. North of the city is muddy lagoons or inaccessible cliffs, with the nearest resort at Foça.
 * Football: Göztepe SK were promoted in 2024 and now play soccer in Süper Lig, the top tier. Their home ground Gürsel Aksel Stadium (capacity 19,700 all-seater) is 5 km west of city centre.
 * Altay SK were relegated in 2024 and now play in TFF Second League, the third tier. Their Mustafa Denizli Stadium (capacity 15,000) is just east of Alsancak Station; it was rebuilt in 2021 when earthquake damage left the original of 1929 teetering.
 * Izmirspor were founded in 1923 and have played in the top tier but now languish down in the amateur leagues.


 * Lunapark is a funfair within Kültürpark, open M-F 12:00-18:00, Sa Su 11:00-20:00.
 * Izmir Jazz Festival is in March.
 * Izmir Marathon is held in April.

Buy

 * Kemeraltı is the atmospheric main bazaar, in the streets east of Konak Square. It's open M-Sa 08:00-19:00.
 * Kızlarağası Han next to Hisar Mosque was a caravanserai built in 1745 and now housing shops.
 * AVM is the Turkish term for a shopping centre - alışveriş merkezi. Those in city centre include Konak Pier, and Kemer Plaza and Hesapli within Kemeraltı.

Eat

 * Local specialties:


 * Fish, typically grilled sea bass.
 * Kumru is a warm sandwich, made with a special bread with sesame seeds, Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and tomatoes; vegetarian versions are available. Find it at street stalls, best early in the day still warm from the bakery. One is a snack, two are a filling meal.
 * Tulum Peyniri is a cheese made in the Izmir region.
 * Boyoz, another local pastry but much oilier than kumru, to eat with a cup of tea for breakfast.

Budget

 * The alleys off Talatpaşa Blv east of the Atatürk Museum are lined with budget eating places.



Splurge

 * Veli Usta have two seafood restaurants 100 m north of Cumhuriyet Meydanı: at Cumhuriyet Blv 131 and at Atatürk Cd 182, both open daily 12:00-23:00. When they're good they're very good, but at these prices they need to be more consistent.
 * Yengec next to Alsancak pier is an overpriced tourist trap.
 * Yengec next to Alsancak pier is an overpriced tourist trap.

Drink

 * Kordon, Alsancak's waterfront, is an attractive place in nice weather.
 * 1448th Sk in Alsancak has end-to-end bars and pubs, with outdoor seating.
 * Nightlife is found on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Cd and Gazi Kadinlar Cd, especially at weekends.

Budget

 * Alican is a basic place north side of Basmane station, 1268th Sk 12.
 * Imperial Otel is at 1296th Sk 54, 50 m SW of Basmane station. It's tatty but clean.
 * Hotel Oba is at 1369th Sk 27, 200 m west of Basmane station. It's basic but cleaner than most.
 * Hotel Oba is at 1369th Sk 27, 200 m west of Basmane station. It's basic but cleaner than most.

Mid-Range




Consulates

 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom

Stay safe


Usual care of valuables, and beware traffic. There's a police post on Konak Pier and the HQ - for something serious like a missing passport - is on 1365th Sk near Basmane Station. There's no longer a separate "tourism police".

Connect
Izmir and its approach highways have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of April 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

 * Çeşme is a small harbour half an hour's drive west of Izmir. It has ferries to Chios.
 * Selçuk a few hours to the south has many historical sights, and is the hub for reaching the must-see Roman city of Ephesus.
 * Şirince is a pleasant inland village, renowned for its wines.
 * Tire an hour away is a traditional Aegean town with a large open-air market. Ödemiş is another traditional town; Birgi further east is one of the prettiest in the country.
 * Kemalpaşa 30 km east was the summer capital of the Empire of Nicaea, and has the ruined Laskaris Palace.
 * Manisa northeast over Sabuncubeli Pass is the hub for visiting Sardes, the capital of ancient Lydia, and Mount Sipylus with forest scenery and mythological sites.
 * Bergama north has the ruins of Pergamon, among the top sights in the country.
 * Istanbul to Izmir is a network of itineraries over this culturally rich part of Turkey.