Isles of Scilly



The Isles of Scilly (Cornish: Enesek Syllan) is a small archipelago of islands in the Atlantic Ocean, 25 miles off the coast of Cornwall at the south-western tip of the United Kingdom. The main island, and obvious base for visitors, is St Mary's. Four of the other islands (known as "Off Islands") are inhabited: best known is Tresco for its Abbey Gardens. All the islands are scenic, and collectively they've been designated an "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty".

Understand
Look at a map of the islands or a satellite photo, and it's as if a single large island has drowned. And that is indeed what happened, possibly as recently as 500 AD, as "Ennor" sank to become a source for legends of Atlantis and Lyonesse. These islands are the last redoubt of land as Britain pokes its toe into the Atlantic, so they came to signify first and last sight of the homeland, or terrible shipwreck, or a nest of rebels and pirates, or first point of attack from overseas powers.

The islands bask in the Gulf Stream and are very mild and sunny. They're cooler than mainland England at the height of summer, but considerably warmer in winter, and frost is rare. This balmy climate fosters sub-tropical flora and a flower industry, plus tourism. St Mary's is the largest island with a population of around 1750, with Hugh Town the main settlement. The other four inhabited Off Islands are each home to a hundred or so. There's limited visitor accommodation and limited transport capacity, so book them simultaneously. The islands are frankly expensive (it's cheaper to holiday in the Med), so even with day-trippers they're not mobbed by tourist hordes - until a cruise ship appears, as they regularly do.

There are no slabby office blocks, high-rise flats or chain hotels here. Much of the land is owned by the Duchy of Cornwall (i.e. Prince of Wales), who together with the islands' council are determined to preserve its character and wildlife. Minor royalty take holidays here, and you'll frequently spot the Duchy's coat of arms. It looks like a bunch of grapes but in heraldry it's "Sable, 15 bezants" plus other flummery. (Translation: black, with 15 gold coins of Byzantium, looted by Crusaders.)

If a local is within earshot, always refer to the place as "The Isles of Scilly", and don't be caught saying "The Scilly Isles" or "The Scillies". This is often attributed to the Royal Mail, as in the early 1900s, they changed the address for the islands from “Scilly Isles” to “Isles of Scilly”, as many of the letters bound to the islands were mistakenly sent to Sicily.

Although you may refer to an islander as a Scillonian (same as the ferry), the proper definition of a Scillonian is someone whose grandmother was born and raised on the islands, while an Islander is someone who was born and/or raised there. If you live on the islands but don't fit any of the above criteria, you're a mere Resident. Don't worry if that's too much to take in, as many people use the terms interchangeably, and you're highly unlikely to cause any offense if you get them mixed up.

The Cornish language was spoken on the islands until the 17th century, and unlike on the mainland there has been no serious attempt to revive it in the 21st. However, many local place names (e.g. Annet, Bryher, Tresco) are Cornish in origin.

Visitor information

 * The official tourist information centre is on Portcressa Road in Hugh Town. There's also an independent travel agent, Isles of Scilly Travel, on Hugh Street.
 * Simpy Scilly tourist information website

Islands
There are five inhabited islands:

And a large number of smaller uninhabited islands and islets:

Get in
Not on Sunday you won't: no ferry, no flights, so Sunday newspapers arrive Monday. The exception is if flights or ferries have been cancelled by weather. Then extra catch-up services may be put on, perhaps at short notice to take advantage of a weather window. So you need to stay in touch with your transport operator in these circumstances.

By boat

 * See Penzance for long-stay parking options near the mainland ferry terminal.



By plane
There are flights year-round to the Isles of Scilly from Land's End and Newquay, Monday to Saturday. In winter when the ferry doesn't sail, this is your only way in. March to October there are also flights from Exeter. These "Skybus" flights are in small fixed-wing twin-props (e.g. Twin Otter or BNF Islander) so your checked baggage limit is only 15 kg, and flights can be grounded by weather that wouldn't bother an Airbus or 737. Day-trips (with no checked baggage) can be made from Land's End or Newquay but not Exeter.

The islands' airport is

By helicopter
There are year-round flights to the islands from a heliport just off the A30 at Jelbert Way, Penzance flying with

Around St Mary's
Walking is ideal for the area around Hugh Town, from the Garrison to the west to Old Town to the east. A hiking trail circles the coast, and all of St Mary's is within walking range of fit young adults (which most visitors no longer are.) The roads are good but very narrow, with no sidewalk beyond Old Town, so even with light traffic you won't enjoy walking them.

Bike hire is widely available. Electric carts can be hired from Scilly Cart Co - bright yellow golf-buggies, but they're road-legal and you will be on the public highway, so you need your driving licence.

April to October M-Sa an elderly bus chugs around St Mary's, visiting or passing close to all points of interest, but not calling at the airport. It starts from the Strand near town hall in Hugh Town. Every two or three hours it runs as a standard bus, 30 min circuit, single trip adult £2, concessions available. Between times it runs as a sight-seeing bus, stopping for photos at the main viewpoints, £10 for a one-hour circuit. Bus times are posted at various locations in town, or ask at the TIC. Mainland bus drivers often don't like giving change but this one, uniquely, resents getting too much, and turns puce at the sight of euros.

Taxis are usually waiting in the centre of Hugh Town, or touting at the pier when the ferry comes in.

Between the islands
Small boats run from the quay at Hugh town on St Mary's to each of the inhabited islands. See St Mary's Boatmen's Association for times and fares, but the standard direct sailings are Apr-Oct daily, 4 to Tresco, 3 to St Agnes, 2 to St Martin's and 2 to Bryher. The boats carry bikes and luggage (including bags checked through from the mainland) but not electric carts or freight. Return fares are adult £9.50, child £4.75, with crossings taking 20 mins. No advance booking, pay at the kiosk on the pier or on the boat.

In summer the direct boat times suit visitors going out from St Mary's in the morning to visit one island and return in the afternoon. They don't enable hops between Off Islands, even between Tresco and Bryher a few hundred yards apart, and they don't circle the islands for sightseeing and bird-watching. For those, take a tour trip, usually adult £15, child £7.50. For instance the Three Islands tour visits Bryher, Tresco and St Agnes, with an hour or two ashore on each. Other offerings are for evening tours, seasonal bird-watching (eg the Manx Shearwaters and puffins), fishing, watching the gig-racing, and out into deep water as far as lonely Bishop lighthouse. In winter most boats are laid up and there are very few sailings. Times then are more suited to bringing Off Islanders in to St Mary's for life's essentials then getting them home.

Posted timetables are only approximate, and you always need to enquire on the pier about weather, boat times, tides and sea conditions, and what's going on for the next few days. (Is a cruise ship due in? If so, "££!" signs will light up in local eyes, boat trips will sell out, and the main tourist sights will be busy.) Then once on your boat, be sure to check the return sailing time and pick-up point, which may well differ from where you land.

Around the Off Islands
Walk. The Off Islands are small and have good lanes so cycling is easy; bike hire is available on all islands. For getting in and away with luggage, your accommodation will usually provide transport to the quay. There are very few vehicles, and islanders potter around on a fleet of tractors, buggies (hire may be possible), and antediluvian Land Rover Defenders.

Tresco
Remember that your boat pick-up point may not be the same as your landing! Depending on tides it will be either Cairn Near Point on the south tip of the island, or New Grimsby on the west coast looking across at Bryher. They're a 20-min walk apart.
 * The "Great Pool" just north of Abbey Gardens has bird hides.
 * The "Great Pool" just north of Abbey Gardens has bird hides.
 * The "Great Pool" just north of Abbey Gardens has bird hides.
 * The "Great Pool" just north of Abbey Gardens has bird hides.

Bryher
A small island, mostly farmland, and the most westerly settlement in England (not Britain, as Scotland and Ulster reach further west). The usual landing quay is on the east side just below All Saints Church, but it gets very shallow at low tide. On the west coast the Atlantic waves crash onto Hell Bay, and the Great Pool is a brackish lagoon separated from the sea by a storm beach. There are a couple of cafes and B&Bs plus a campsite. Seen north of the quay, Fraggle Rock is also known as Hangman Island. The bodies of rebels and pirates were often hung up in cages, and Isles of Scilly had plenty of both, but there's no evidence that Fraggle Rock was used for this. At spring low tide it's possible to walk to the southern uninhabited island of Samson, and even to Tresco, but seek local advice before attempting this. There's no transport to other islets such as Gweal.

St Martin's
This is the most northerly of the Isles of Scilly. The usual landing quay is at Higher Town on its south side. This tiny "town" straggles west through Middle Town to, guess where, Lower Town, where the Hotel Quay is the landing point at low tide. St Martin's is surrounded by rugged coastline and unspoilt beaches, and crisscrossed by paths. It has a bakery, a cafe, a couple of pubs, a few B&Bs, and a vineyard (open Tu-Th 11AM-4PM). The bright red & white tower at the north-east corner of the island is a navigational day-mark, erected 1683, and visible from mainland Cornwall - it's not a lighthouse as it never had a light. At the north tip, a rocky causeway passable at low tide connects to White Island, which has Neolithic remains and Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Seek local advice on safe crossing times, as the waves and tides can really rip over the causeway. There's no transport to other nearby islets such as Tean.

St Agnes
This is most southerly populated spot in Britain, with Troy Town Farm being the most southerly habitation in the UK. The quay is on the east of the island, and just next to it is a pub & cafe, the Turk's Head. This, and another couple of small cafes further west, are only open in summer. There's no hotel, but a couple of places do B&B. In the centre of the island is the main settlement and a lighthouse built in 1680; it's no longer lit but serves as a day-mark for shipping. Close to the quay is the tidal island of Gugh, connected to St Agnes by a tombolo of shingle and sand. Check times with the boatman, but you can usually walk across and stroll for a couple of hours either side of low tide. At these times St Agnes has a slightly larger area and population than Bryher; then the tide isolates Gugh and its three residents, and St Agnes again becomes the smallest of the Isles of Scilly.

Do

 * Boat trips: check the notice boards at Hugh Town quay or the St Mary's Boatmen's Association for what's available. On the Off Islands, check with the local boat company. See also "Get around" above for other options & practicalities.
 * Diving: The distance from the main islands of Britain gives the Scillies excellent visibility for scuba diving, while the archipelago is a tangle of reefs that attract both marine life and has caused innumerable wrecks over the years, including one of the worst peacetime disasters of the Royal Navy. Dive Scilly, run by Dave McBride (T: 01720 422848) runs runs dive trips from a day-boat and can provide gas fills.
 * Pilot gigs are traditional Cornish six-oar rowing boats, slim and fast - the first boat to get a pilot out to a struggling ship won the job. They also acted as the first shore-based lifeboats, but since the 19th century have mostly been used for sport racing. Racing gigs must strictly adhere to the "Treffy" pattern of 1838; non-racing gigs may vary. The World Pilot Gig Championships are held here annually in May, with over 100 crews competing, and heroic partying afterwards. There are practices and beer-races at other times. Boat trips follow them from St Mary's.
 * Bird watching: the islands are important both for birds of passage - their first & last landfall, especially in spring and autumn - and for resident colonies, most active in early summer.
 * Report a rat! St Agnes & Gugh and Annet are rat-free, the other islands are aiming to be. Ground-nesting birds such as the Manx Shearwater depend upon this. So report it if you think you see a rat, but don't try to whack it yourself. You'd only succeed if it was something else, like the Scillies Shrew, a protected species.

Buy
Lots of locally produced food and gifts are available. Beef, pork, lamb, duck, fresh fish and shellfish, wildflower honey, fudge, ice cream, paintings, pottery, glassware, jewellery and even soap, the list is endless. Each island has at least one stall selling locally produced fruit and veg together with fresh free range eggs. Scilly is famous for its flowers, and a wide variety of bulbs are available to take home.

There is a Co-op food store on St Mary's and some Off Islands have a well stocked shop.

There is only one bank in Hugh Town on St Mary's. Lloyds (M-F 9AM-4PM) has an ATM. Many shops, pubs and post offices will do cash back.

Eat and drink
For picnic supplies, stock up at the Co-op on St Mary's, or Off Island local shop. All the inhabited islands have decent pub and cafe food, and cream teas. Hours are geared to tourists and they have limited opening out of season.



St Mary's

 * Cafe Kavorna (on Hugh Street beside Lloyd's Bank, +44 1720 422660) does good breakfasts, lunches and cream teas until 5PM. Gluten-free and vegan options.

Sleep
Whatever your price range, be ready to book your accommodation just as soon as you've booked your transport. It's all pricey by mainland standards.

St Mary's

 * Lots of B&Bs, mostly in or near Hugh town, reckon £40-70 ppn. If you need to ask directions from a local, knowing the name of your host is more helpful than knowing the name of the B&B.
 * Splurge at
 * Splurge at
 * Splurge at

Tresco
Tresco is a private estate which runs all the accommodation on the island. There is no camping here. Choices are:


 * Sea Garden cottages: one-bedroom cottages are available to book per night, larger cottages by the week
 * Flying Boat cottages are houses, booked per week.
 * The New Inn, rooms for around £55-120 per person B&B.
 * Traditional cottages sleep from two to ten, and are booked by the week. They're also available as time-shares: you get the same week every year for 25 years.

Bryher

 * There are four small B&Bs on the island.
 * There are four small B&Bs on the island.

St Martin's

 * Four self-catering places, one B&B, and (just as you'd despaired of finding one in these islands) a yurt sleeping 2+2.
 * Four self-catering places, one B&B, and (just as you'd despaired of finding one in these islands) a yurt sleeping 2+2.

St Agnes


St Agnes doesn't have a hotel.

Stay safe
The islands are nearly crime-free. The biggest dangers are probably from bicycle theft or from the odd rowdy group of drunken pub-goers in the evening. Don't leave your bike unlocked outside a pub on a Friday or Saturday night... if it does go missing though you'll probably find it returned nearby the next morning.

If walking along the more rugged coastal paths, or exploring remote parts, especially the smaller uninhabited islands, take with you a charged mobile phone or other means of communication. There is generally good mobile coverage.

As with the rest of the UK, in any emergency call 999 or 112 and ask for Ambulance, Fire or Police when connected.

Connect
The landline area code for the Isles is 01720. There is mobile coverage by all UK networks. The islands are connected to the internet by a high-capacity ocean cable, so there is good internet access available. Royal Mail deliver and collect as on the British mainland, Mondays to Saturdays.

Go next
The only way out by public transport is back to Cornwall on the mainland. It'll be a shock to return to all that scurrying traffic.