Isle of Bute

The Isle of Bute (Scottish Gaelic: Eilean Bhòid or An t-Eilean Bhòdach) is an island in the Firth of Clyde, off the west coast of Scotland. Rothesay is the main town. It is part of the "Costa Clyde" or "Glasgow Riviera", the string of little resorts stretching down the Clyde coast from Gourock through Ayr to Girvan. With only a short ferry crossing from Wemyss Bay on the mainland, it's popular with day trippers from Glasgow and never feels "away from it all".

Understand
Administratively the island is part of Argyll and Bute in the Scottish Highlands, but it actually forms the namesake of a traditional Scottish county (Buteshire) along with Arran and the Cumbraes. Indeed the Highland fault line runs through it, from Rothesay through freshwater Loch Fad and Loch Quien to Scalpsie Bay on the south coast. So most of the island, west of this line, is geologically Highland, but it's of no great height, and Bute is lowland in nature.

In 2021, Bute had a population of 6021.

Visitor information
The tourist office is next to Rothesay ferry pier, open daily 9:30AM-5PM.
 * Visit Bute website

Get in

 * Beautiful Rothesay, your scenery is most grand, You cannot be surpassed in fair Scotland.
 * Tis healthy for holiday makers to go there, For the benefit of their health, by inhaling the pure air.
 * - William McGonagall, who else

is the usual arrival point on Bute, via the Calmac ferry from Wemyss Bay 30 miles west of Glasgow. It takes 35 min, and sails at least hourly every day year-round 7AM-8PM. Return fares (until end of March 2025) are £27.10 per car, £7.60 per adult passenger including driver, £3.90 per child. There's no booking on this route but you must be at the pier at least 20 min before sailing.

With your own boat, you can berth either at Rothesay marina or the quieter Port Bannatyne.

on the Cowal Peninsula is linked by ferry to Rhubodach, at the end of the road on the north of the island. You'd only come this way as part of a scenic tour of Argyll. The ferry runs daily year-round every 30 min 6AM-9PM (Sunday from 8:30AM), taking barely five minutes, with no booking. Return fares until end of March 2025 are £14.30 per car, £2.90 per adult passenger including driver, £1.50 per child aged 5-15. The sea channel is only 300 yards wide, so it's an expensive crossing in terms of £ per mile.

See for details of:
 * - trains from Glasgow Central to Wemyss Bay,
 * - road routes, the usual approach being westbound M8 > A8 > A78,
 * - connections from Glasgow Airport or Prestwick.

Bute Airfield is near Kilchattan Bay 5 miles south of Rothesay. It's a grass strip of 500 m, daylight hours only, no fuel. And you'll need to have ground transport arranged.

Get around
West Coast Motors run bus services on the island. All bus routes pass along Rothesay Victoria Street near the ferry pier. Those most relevant to visitors are 90, 490 and 493, which follow the coast south past Ardencraig Gardens, Ascog Fernery and Mount Stuart to Kilchattan Bay. These run hourly year-round M-Sa.

Buses 90, 477, 479 and 490 run up the east coast via Port Bannatyne to Rhubodach ferry pier, for Colintraive on the Cowal peninsula. Bus 477 crosses to Colintraive by ferry and winds around Loch Riddon via Auchenbreck then south through Kames to Portvadie, for ferries to Tarbert in Argyll. Bus 479 also crosses to Colintraive and from Auchenbreck turns west to Dunoon, for ferries to Gourock thence trains to Glasgow. From Port Bannatyne, buses 90, 490 and 493 turn inland, to Ettrick Bay on Bute's west coast. Routes 488, 491, 492 and 493 loop around Rothesay town to various residential areas, the college, and local hospital.

Bicycle is an excellent way to explore the island, as the distances aren't great and it's not hilly. Bike hire is available from The Bike Shed near the ferry terminal in Rothesay, +44 1700 505515.

Taxi operators are J & J Zan-Kreyser (+44 1700 504499) and McBrides (+44 1700 503000).

See

 * Serpentine Road slaloms down Canada Hill east side of town. There's a viewpoint near the top.
 * is the ruin of a church from circa 1300.
 * Ascog Hall Fernery alas has closed down.
 * is the second largest settlement on the island, though little more than ribbon development along the coast road and stony beach. The marina is sheltered - visitor berths are on Pontoon D, book your berth on +44 1700 503116.
 * dates from 1700 but was almost completely rebuilt in Baronial style in 1897. It's a private residence, no tours.
 * Kames Castle half a mile south was built in the 16th century, and similarly restored as a private residence.
 * Kyles of Bute are the straits that separate the northern end of Bute from the Cowal Pensinsula. They're a designated National Scenic Area. You can see their eastern arm from the coast road to Rhubodach ferry pier.
 * is 13 m in diameter with four standing stones and three stumps. Its age is uncertain. A second circle was blown up by the landowner circa 1810.
 * is sandy, in a sheltered horseshoe bay on the west coast along A844. Butefest is held here.
 * Kyles of Bute are the straits that separate the northern end of Bute from the Cowal Pensinsula. They're a designated National Scenic Area. You can see their eastern arm from the coast road to Rhubodach ferry pier.
 * is 13 m in diameter with four standing stones and three stumps. Its age is uncertain. A second circle was blown up by the landowner circa 1810.
 * is sandy, in a sheltered horseshoe bay on the west coast along A844. Butefest is held here.
 * was built in the 7th century. It is well ruined but the stone slab at its east end is probably the altar. To get here follow the lane from Ettrick Bay up the coast to its dead-end at Glecknabae, then hike 1½ miles along the farm track. "St Michael's Grave" is a collapsed Neolithic burial chamber just south of the chapel. Cairnbaan Chambered Cairn is a better-preserved site reached by a detour into the woods halfway along that track.
 * or "Kingarth" has three standing stones of an original seven. One is a strange puff-mushroom shape, or perhaps it's a doorknob for the underworld.
 * Largizean Stones across the fields half a mile west are three aligned whinstones.
 * is just a single gnarly stump, you only come for the views. It was probably an L-plan tower house of the 16th century. Here and there in the fields around, you notice traces of a disappeared medieval village.
 * is an extensive ruin, mostly Norman. A monastery stood here in the 6th to 7th century but only scraps of it remain. After the Reformation of 1560 the priest refused either to become protestant or to quit the church and manse. The authorities left him alone in an almighty sulk while the place fell to rack and ruin around his ears. Near Kilchattan turn off A844 onto Plan Road south past the airfield; park up at the road end and walk along the track.
 * Scalpsie Bay on the southwest coast is a haul-out point for Grey or Atlantic seals, Halichoerus grypus. The binomial means "hook nose sea pigs" for their distinctive broad nose; the common or harbour seal (Phoca vitulina) has a puppy-dog nose. Please don't disturb them in any way.
 * Dunagoil is a vitrified Iron Age fort half a mile west of St Blane's, follow the footpath. Like several other forts of that era, it has at some point burnt so furiously that its stones fused into glass. The name means "hill of the foreigners", same as Donegal in Ireland, and it sits on a volcanic outcrop. Nearby are the scrappy remains of a smaller fort and a burial cist.
 * Rubh' an Eun Lighthouse on the southeast corner of Bute is a minor light, which together with the light on Little Cumbrae indicates the channel for the Clydeside ports.
 * is an island one mile west of Bute, still farmed but nowadays uninhabited. It has sea caves, a Bronze Age burial cist, and an early medieval monastery. St Marnock (d 625 AD) was the monk for whom Kilmarnock is named. It's not known if he ever stayed here, but the monastery was dedicated to him, and had a "writing school" teaching novices how to write elaborate script. The island is private but boat trips sometimes land by permission.

Do

 * The cinema is within the Discovery Centre by the ferry pier.
 * Shinty: Bute play in Mowi National Division, the second tier. Their home ground is King George's Field south side of Rothesay. The playing season is April-Sept.
 * Port Bannatyne Petanque Club meets May-Sep in that village's park, Wednesday at 7PM and Sunday at 2PM.
 * Golf: Rothesay GC is on Canada Hill east side of town. Bute GC is nine holes, south at Kingarth near the airfield. Port Bannatyne GC in that village is an oddity, a 13-hole course: you play 12, then the first 5 again, then the 18th.
 * Port Bannatyne Petanque Club meets May-Sep in that village's park, Wednesday at 7PM and Sunday at 2PM.
 * Golf: Rothesay GC is on Canada Hill east side of town. Bute GC is nine holes, south at Kingarth near the airfield. Port Bannatyne GC in that village is an oddity, a 13-hole course: you play 12, then the first 5 again, then the 18th.
 * The West Island Way is a long-distance footpath that traverses Bute, 32 miles in all. It's all easy going, pick your own itinerary, but the suggested stages are: Day 1 circuit of Kilchattan Bay, 5 miles; Day 2 Kilchattan to Port Bannatyne, 11.5 miles; Day 3 Port Bannatyne to Rhubodach 8.5 miles; Day 4 back to Port Bannatyne.
 * Five Ferries is a cycle route of 51 miles, starting in Ardrossan, crossing via Arran to Kintyre then via Colintrave to Bute and back to the mainland via Rothesay to Wemyss Bay. It's often done as a charity challenge. If you manage to connect with the fourth ferry at Colintraive you're almost home safe, as there are no more gradients before you and the final ferry from Rothesay is frequent. In 2023/24 the adult fare is £15.15, no booking needed but warn Calmac if there's a large group of you — this is important for the small Lochranza and Cowal ferries.
 * ButeFest is a music festival in late July at Ettrick Bay on the west coast. The next is F-Su 26-28 July 2024.
 * Bute Highland Games are held at The Stadium sports ground, on High St half a mile south of Rothesay town centre, with the next on Sa 24 Aug 2024.
 * Bute Highland Games are held at The Stadium sports ground, on High St half a mile south of Rothesay town centre, with the next on Sa 24 Aug 2024.

Buy

 * Co-op Food main store is on Bridge Street 200 yards west and a block inland from Rothesay ferry pier. It's open daily 7AM-10PM. There's a smaller Co-op on Montague St a block inland from the pier, same hours. Londis is midway between the two Co-ops.
 * Macqueen's is a butcher selling hand-made gourmet sausages, haggis and black pudding, at 1 Bishop St near the pier. It's open M Tu Th F 7:30AM-5PM, Sa 7:30AM-3:30PM.
 * Bute Smokehouse produces salmon, trout and kippers. It's at 111 Montague St, open M-Sa 11AM-1PM.

Eat

 * India Pavilion at 7 Argyle St is open daily 2-11PM.
 * The Bonnie Clyde at 29 Gallowgate has an eclectic menu, open M-Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 11AM-9PM.
 * The Kettledrum is a slick little cafe at 32 East Princes St, open W-Sa noon-8PM, Su noon-6PM.
 * The Anchor Tavern is your best chance of a meal in Port Bannatyne. It's at 33 Marine Rd, open daily.
 * The Kettledrum is a slick little cafe at 32 East Princes St, open W-Sa noon-8PM, Su noon-6PM.
 * The Anchor Tavern is your best chance of a meal in Port Bannatyne. It's at 33 Marine Rd, open daily.

Drink

 * Durrum a doo a durrum-day, durrum a doo a daddy o,
 * Durrum a doo a durrum-day, the day we went tae Rothesay o! - trad ballad


 * Rothesay pubs were designed for Glaswegians to come "doon the water", get bevvied, take a leak in the Victorian gents, then stagger straight back onto the ferry. The strip includes Criterion Bar (up for sale in 2023), Islander Bar, The Grapes, The Galatea, Taverna Bar, Black Bull Inn, The Golfers and Palace Bar.
 * Isle of Bute Distillery makes gin and spiced rum. They're at 65 High St in Rothesay and offer tours. In 2022 they were due to move into the larger Bute Yard behind, and re-open the island brewery, but COVID held this up.
 * Spirit of Bute is a micro-distillery at 79 Montague St. Their shop is open W-Sa 11AM-4:30PM.

Sleep

 * We aa lay doon tae tak oor ease, when somebody happened for tae sneeze,
 * And waukened half a million fleas, that et us alive in Rothesay o. - trad ballad


 * B&Bs dot the coast road. Those within a mile of Rothesay ferry pier are Sunnyside at 12 Argyle Place, Ivybank Villa on Westland Rd, Summer's Bay Hotel at 23 Battery Place, Highlander House at 28 Battery Place, and St Ebba at 37 Mountstuart Rd.
 * Esplanade Hotel is more like a bar and restaurant with rooms, as most visitors are just here for a meal. It's at 4 High St facing the ferry pier.
 * Bute Backpackers has basic private rooms (£35 ppn) and doesn't have a dorm. It's at 36 Argyle St, half a mile west of the ferry pier.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.

Connect
As of June 2023, Rothesay has 4G from all UK carriers, but the rest of Bute has no signal.

Go next

 * Ah said, “Ah think we should elope.” So we went and jined the Band of Hope,
 * But the polis widny let us stop another oor in Rothesay o.

The obvious route is back to the mainland via Rothesay and Wemyss Bay, when Glasgow and the whole of lowland Scotland lie before you. This is also the best route to the Isle of Arran, by ferry from Ardrossan.

From the short ferry crossing of Rhubodach-Colintraive, either go north to Loch Long, Inveraray and Loch Lomond, or loop south again to Portvadie, for ferries to Tarbert on Loch Fyne. From there the main road leads to Campbeltown on the Mull of Kintyre. Dotted along the way are ferry ports for Islay, Gigha, and a back route into Arran.