Isle of Arran

The Isle of Arran is part of Ayrshire in southwest Scotland. It lies in the Firth of Clyde, the broad reach of sea southwest of Glasgow and enclosed by the Ayrshire coast to the east and the Kintyre peninsula to the west. With a 2011 population of 4629, Arran extends for about 20 miles north-south and 10 miles east-west, with all its settlements strung along the coast road, and a hilly interior.

The tourist agency calls it "Scotland in Miniature", though if you try cycling the roads over the hills, or the midges attack, the experience will not feel miniature. However that slogan is a good summary of Arran's balance of highland versus lowland, amenities versus empty glens, and accessibility versus "far away from it all".

Understand
How old is this Earth? Arran is where geologists began to see that it was vastly older than they’d supposed, and was continually re-shaped by sometimes violent forces – look at that huge plug of granite thrust up through the island’s centre. So it was only an eyeblink ago in geological terms when Neolithic settlers erected the great stone circles of Machrie Moor. Arran was, and is, a farming and fishing community, but from the late 18th century it was systematically depopulated, as its residents were evicted, or chose to leave for better prospects elsewhere. Tourism developed in the 19th century as city workers came “doon the water” for their summer holidays along the “Glasgow Riviera” or “Costa Clyde”, in resorts such as Troon, Largs, Ayr, Girvan and Arran. In the late 20th century they moved on to the Med, but good ferry connections brought in different visitors. Traditional life persisted alongside the caravan parks and B&Bs, but the last native Gaelic speakers died out, fortunately having survived into an era when recordings could capture their oral history and distinctive dialect of Arran Gaelic.

The main strip of settlement is on the east coast between Brodick (the ferry port), Lamlash (historically the main village) and Whiting Bay. This can be busy, and is within sight of mainland Ayrshire. Get across the hills to where population is sparse and the view is of Kintyre, it suddenly feels a hundred miles from anywhere.

For the weather outlook see the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) for the Western Highlands, which includes Arran.

Visitor information

 * Visit Arran website

Get in
You reach Arran by ferry, almost always by the Ardrossan-Brodick route; Ardrossan is well-connected with Glasgow. There is also a ferry between Lochranza and Claonaig in Argyll, described below, but this is a very long way round, best considered as part of a road tour of the Western Highlands and Islands. Both routes are operated by Calmac and sail year-round, weather permitting. The ferries are often booked up in summer, especially for the weekend get-away and the Sunday-Monday return. The other problem is elderly ferries that frequently break down, with their modern replacement way overdue and over budget.

Ardrossan-Brodick ferry sails 7AM-7PM every 90 minutes or so Apr-Oct, but with only five sailings Nov-Mar. It carries around 100 cars and 1000 passengers, and has toilets, play area, lounge, tourist information desk, bar, café and restaurant; there is disabled access. Extra peak-period sailings may be on smaller vessels, with size limits for vehicles. Return fares (until end of March 2025) are £37.20 for a car, £9.20 per passenger including the driver, and £4.60 per child 5-15; toddlers, bicycles and dogs go free. Your car must be at the pier 30 minutes ahead (toilets, café and waiting area at both ports), foot passengers are okay till ten minutes ahead. The crossing takes just under an hour. People sometimes take a round-trip without landing, enjoying a scenic lunch on the way. Unless it’s filthy weather, do stay on deck and watch for marine life: dolphins, porpoise, seals and basking sharks are not uncommonly seen. For day-trippers, a tour coach sometimes meets the morning ferry at Brodick and takes you round the island’s main sights then back in time for an afternoon return. Ask at the tourist desk on board.

There is a long stay car park at Ardrossan harbour, £4 per day. So if you're only staying a couple of days, don't have much luggage and don't plan to venture beyond Brodick and Lamlash, consider parking and coming across as a foot passenger.

Campbeltown-Ardrossan ferry calls at Brodick on the 7AM Saturday sailing May-Sept, so this is an alternative way to return from Kintyre to Arran. The westbound ferries from Ardrossan to Campbeltown don’t call, so from Arran you have to sail Lochranza-Claonaig to reach Kintyre.

Ferries may divert to Troon in bad weather, when the usual ferry berth at Ardrossan can be exposed. Until 2024 there was a back-up there, the "Irish berth", but this has become worn and unsuitable for use, so the back-up is now to sail to and from Troon. So check ahead if bad weather is expected. This is separate from the intended diversion to Troon during upgrade of Ardrossan harbour - that project is on hold as costs have spiralled.

Lochranza-Claonaig ferry sails 8 times a day Apr-Oct, taking 30 min. In winter Claonaig jetty is too exposed, so Nov-March has a single daily crossing between Lochranza and Tarbert, taking 90 min. The ferry is a small ro-ro with room for 18 cars and 150 passengers; there’s a small lounge and toilets. Return fares until end of March 2025 are £23.20 for a car, £7 per passenger including the driver, and £3.50 per child 5-15. From Claonaig you can reach Skipness on foot, and Tarbert by bike, see “Go next”. However most visitors take a single ride to tour Kintyre, the Western Highlands, and other islands such as Islay and Jura.

has a little waiting room but that's all. Claonaig on the other shore is just a slipway with no facilities.

Arran is also visited by other ships in summer, but these are excursion cruises not ferries. A charming example is the paddle steamer “Waverley”, the world's oldest sea-going paddle ship, in her 1947 LNER livery.

Get around
The road around the island is the busy A841 on the east side between Lochranza, Brodick and Whiting Bay, and just a lane — but perfectly driveable — from Whiting Bay round the west side back to Lochranza. Two small and scenic roads climb across the hills in the middle. The “String Road” or B880 runs from Brodick to Blackwaterfoot. The “Ross Road” is that quintessential Highland experience, a narrow single track lane with passing places, unsuitable for large vehicles (thus, no bus service). It wends and winds from Lamlash to re-join the main road between Kilmory/Lagg and Sliddery.

Especially in the quieter parts of the island, people are often happy to pick up hitch-hikers who don’t look too weird or muddy, but passing traffic can be very sparse.

By car
Most visitors bring their own vehicle. Fill the tank before coming over: it’s a large island so you may do more mileage than you expected, and filling stations on Arran are few and expensive with Brodick, Lamlash and Whiting Bay your best hope.

Car hire is available from Arran Motors at Bay Garage next to Brodick ferry terminal in Brodick (+44 1770 302839). You can also pick up / drop off at their garage in Whiting Bay. They also have a taxi service and do tours of the island.

Arran Cab Company is the other taxi (+44 7802 542495).

By bus
Bus routes all start from Brodick ferry terminal and ply all the island roads except the Ross Road. So you can get places by bus, but you might not get much of a view through the mud-splashed windows. Buses are operated by Stagecoach West Scotland, under the aegis of SPT (Strathclyde Partnership for Transport) so bus stops and timetables may carry either logo. See SPT for the timetable. Printed timetables are on the ferries, at Brodick ferry terminal, on the buses themselves and from convenience stores. The routes are: This means that trips around the island can be put together by changing at Blackwaterfoot, the antipodes of the network:
 * 322 Brodick - String Road - Blackwaterfoot (M-Sa roughly hourly, four on Sunday)
 * 323 Brodick - Lamlash - Whiting Bay - Kildonan - Lagg - Blackwaterfoot (M-Sa roughly hourly to Whiting Bay, with six continuing to Blackwaterfoot; Sunday six to Whiting Bay and four to Blackwaterfoot)
 * 324 Brodick - Castle - Corrie - Sannox - Lochranza – Pirnmill - Blackwaterfoot (M-F seven per day, five on Saturday, four on Sunday)
 * 324 + 322 for North Island circuit via String Road
 * 323 + 322 for South Island circuit via String Road
 * 324 + 323 to go all the way round.

The buses don’t carry bikes. All buses are “Hail and Ride” – they’ll stop for you anywhere. Don’t set off back too late, as few buses run after 21:00.

Arran has a Rural MyBus scheme, an on-demand supplement to regular buses, organised by SPT. See Scotland for eligibility rules. Since Arran has a bus service on just about every road that a bus can drive along, there's little call for it on the island, but there's a useful mainland connection (M22 once a day M-Sa) from Irvine via Stevenston and Saltcoats to meet the ferry at Ardrossan.

By bicycle
Bicycles travel free on Calmac ferries. The main road from Brodick to Corrie is too busy for an enjoyable ride, but if your lungs and sinews can take it, the String Road and Ross Road are sublime.
 * Arran Adventures the activity centre within Auchrannie Resort hires mountain bikes and in summer conducts guided mountain bike tours.
 * Arran Adventures the activity centre within Auchrannie Resort hires mountain bikes and in summer conducts guided mountain bike tours.

Brodick

 * Brodick town centre is like a dozen other "Costa Clyde" resorts, with a line of Victoriana along the sea front, and a gush of traffic whenever a ferry arrives.
 * Goat Fell rears up behind the castle, see below for the walking trail.
 * Glen Rosa stone row is three tall stones in the fields west of the castle. It's likely that farming has shifted their original alignment.
 * Saltwater Gallery is by the pedestrian entrance to the castle, open year-round Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM.
 * Glen Rosa stone row is three tall stones in the fields west of the castle. It's likely that farming has shifted their original alignment.
 * Saltwater Gallery is by the pedestrian entrance to the castle, open year-round Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM.

South

 * Lamlash three miles south of Brodick is sheltered by Holy Island so it has the safest anchorage and was the traditional port of arrival. It still has the island admin and hospital though Brodick outgrew it once the ro-ro ferry port was developed.


 * is by the main road, but overgrown - park in the pull-in 50 yards north. Four granite boulders guard the site of a burial chamber, now gone.
 * is a short boat-ride from Lamlash. In summer, boat trips sail hourly, for bird-watching, hikes over the small island, and great views over the Firth towards Ailsa Craig and the Mull of Kintyre. And, last thing you expected to find here, there’s a Tibetan Buddhist community. At the north end where the boats land is the "Interfaith Centre", with visitor information and a café, open in summer more or less whenever the boats are sailing. The track down the island is dotted with Buddhist iconry then at the south end is the retreat, where monks live in seclusion and you can’t visit. This community is often loosely described as a monastery, though that term properly only applies to their mother house, the Samye Ling Monastery above Garvald in Dumfriesshire.
 * is more likely a prehistoric dun, though a nearby grave had Viking grave-goods.
 * is a waterfall where Glenashdale Burn tumbles into the glen. There's a loop trail from Whiting Bay.
 * are a pair of burial cairns from about 5000 BC, easiest reached by the trail past the waterfall.
 * is the local name for two standing stones near former burial cists. They might be Neolithic or Bronze Age.
 * Kildonnan Castle is the ivy-clad stump of a 13th-century bastion, used by Scottish royalty as a hunting lodge. It's quarter of a mile east of Seal Sands Campsite.
 * is the small island a mile south; it's privately owned. The lighthouse was built in 1790, automated in 1990 and is still in use. The pyramid seen far to the south is Ailsa Craig.
 * Chirotherium was the monster that left its pawprint on the beach 240 million years ago, a relative of the crocodiles. You need the tide to be at least halfway out, then from the car park on the lane by Kildonnan head west, the print is in the rocks 50 yards further.
 * Chirotherium was the monster that left its pawprint on the beach 240 million years ago, a relative of the crocodiles. You need the tide to be at least halfway out, then from the car park on the lane by Kildonnan head west, the print is in the rocks 50 yards further.

North

 * : the track starts from Shore Road in the middle of the village, and they're best visited as part of a steep trek to the top of the hill. Parking at the foot of the trail is very limited.
 * Isle of Arran Distillery, the original, is in Lochranza, see Drink.
 * Cock of Arran is the north end of the island, named for a rock formation resembling a cockerel's head that has tumbled to lie on the shore. The entire north end suffered a great landslide in the 18th century, with a roar that they probably heard on Krakatoa, so the path is a scramble across the boulders. The red rocks are Old Red Sandstone so they predate most lifeforms and fossils are rare.
 * is a sea cave along the hike around Cock of Arran. It was created when sea levels were higher and is now dry at all tides. Look for the 18th-century etching of a sailing ship just inside on the right. The cave is large, use your mobile flashlight, but the Ossian of legend would barely have got his pinkie finger into it.
 * Sailor's Grave half a mile west of the ferry pier is the resting place of John Maclean, died 12 Aug 1854. He may have died of cholera aboard his ship anchored at Lochranza, or at least the villagers feared he had, as it was amidst a national epidemic. So his body wasn't allowed into any parish graveyard but isolated here. Passers-by have added pebbles.
 * Sailor's Grave half a mile west of the ferry pier is the resting place of John Maclean, died 12 Aug 1854. He may have died of cholera aboard his ship anchored at Lochranza, or at least the villagers feared he had, as it was amidst a national epidemic. So his body wasn't allowed into any parish graveyard but isolated here. Passers-by have added pebbles.

West

 * Wildlife: always be on the lookout, especially in these more rugged northern and western parts. You might see Golden Eagles, Hen Harriers, diving birds, ravens, birds-of-passage eg waxwings and crossbills, and occasional windblown strays such as the white-tailed sea eagle and long-tailed skua. Deer are common and have no road sense. Red squirrels may be spotted in the woodlands. Seals often haul out on the shore, especially at Blackwaterfoot. This side of the island has the best views, over Kintyre, and sees the sunset.
 * Sea caves are visible in the cliffs along the north and west shores of Arran, now high and dry, with the coast road below them. They were formed at the end of the last Ice Age 10,000 to 6000 years ago when sea levels rose, but the weight of ice still depressed the land, until it pinged upwards in "orthostatic rebound". Raised beaches are also seen, some 100 feet above present sea levels.
 * Pirnmill has a long sand and shingle beach, though it's covered at high tide. The village is named for the mill that from 1780 to 1840 made pirns, wooden rods for winding thread for weaving (like a bobbin but fixed in position) in the Paisley looms. In the hills behind, see the hamlet of Penrioch and the abandoned houses of High Pirnmill. You can get a car or bike up the track as far as Penrioch, otherwise walk.
 * Auchencar Stone or Dragon's Tooth is a tall megalith in the field by the turnoff to Thyme restaurant.
 * is a Neolithic or Bronze Age burial cairn. The 15 main stones look too mismatched for a ritual circle, and some of the rockery has been dumped later for field clearance.
 * is reached by a hike from Drumadoon. It's another sea cave with two branches, and the recesses have ancient carvings, perhaps early medieval Christian. These have been vandalised and a metal gate was placed across the opening, but you'll probably find it open. The "king" is a modern myth that this is one of the many caves where the fugitive Robert the Bruce was inspired by the efforts of a spider, though if it happened at all it was on Rathlin Island off Antrim. Equally likely it was the spider that was inspired and set spinning with renewed vigour, by watching Robert fruitlessly entering damp depressing cave after cave in search of a better military strategy.
 * Drumadoon Cursus inland from the cave remains a puzzle but is under excavation from 2023. It's a long Neolithic groove or ditch, but whether ritual, sporting or agricultural is unknown: Drumadoon is the best example of a cursus in Britain.
 * Doon Fort is Iron Age; it's on the coast north of Shiskine Golf Club, backed by cliffs and defended by a stout wall. The wall is turfed over so it's camouflaged.
 * Torrylin Cairn is a Neolithic burial chamber below Kilmory Haven campsite.
 * is reached by a track near Lagg Distillery. It's said to be a naturist / nudist beach, but how can anyone tell? It’s usually deserted apart from the cows, being draughty, dung-splattered and without any amenities. Still it should be nice and quiet if you decide to get your kit off.
 * is reached by a track near Lagg Distillery. It's said to be a naturist / nudist beach, but how can anyone tell? It’s usually deserted apart from the cows, being draughty, dung-splattered and without any amenities. Still it should be nice and quiet if you decide to get your kit off.

Do

 * What's on? Read Arran Banner, published Friday.

Hiking

 * OS Landranger map 69 covers the entire island. All the coast is walkable, though the Brodick – Corrie section is too close to the main road to escape traffic noise. For hiking suggestions (including GPS coordinates and route descriptions) see Walk Highlands hiking guide.


 * is the island’s highest peak at 874 m (2867 ft), so it’s a “Corbett”. The usual ascent is from Cladach near Brodick Castle gates. This trail is well-waymarked and well-trodden, and takes 5-6 hours there and back. Nothing technical, but there’s a long scramble of scree near the summit. A steeper but shorter route ascends from Corrie, past some fine waterfalls, and you could use the bus to climb one way and descend the other. The view from the top sweeps over Ayrshire, Galloway, Ailsa Craig, Kintyre, Islay and Jura, Bute, and the hills above Loch Lomond. That’s on a clear day of course. On a misty drizzly day, let’s hope you took a compass bearing before you plunged into the gloom.
 * Glen Cloy just south-west of Brodick is a good scenic walk, 1½ miles starting by Auchrannie Resort to the bowl of surrounding hills.
 * is 2 miles from Lamlash, or you can drive to within half a mile. Usual beach life: birds, seals, squidgy things in rock pools, and you might spot a nuclear submarine, as their base lies further up the Firth. There’s also the remains of a boom defence signal station from World War II.
 * Whiting Bay has walks to the Giants Grave (1½ mile round trip), Glenashdale Falls (7 miles round trip) and Kings Cross Point (3 miles round trip).
 * The Coastal Way is a set of paths for walking around the entire island along the coast divided into 12 sections. The coastal section between North Sannox and Lochranza is not suitable for bikes as it involves light scrambling especially around the Cock of Arran.

Golf



 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.

Other

 * Five Ferries is a cycle route of 51 miles, starting in Ardrossan, crossing Arran to Kintyre then Bute and back to the mainland at Wemyss Bay (less commonly in reverse). There are steep gradients along the route and it's often done as a charity challenge. From the first ferry landing at Brodick you have 75 min to cover 14 miles to catch the second ferry at Lochranza, otherwise your life unravels. You'll feel confident at the ten-mile mark, then you encounter the two-mile climb out of Sannox. The adult fare until end of March 2024 is £15.15. Bikes are free on Calmac ferries but warn them if there's a large group of you: this is important for the small Lochranza ferry, assuming you catch it. And of course you can make the same circuit by motorbike or car.
 * Bowling Greens, Lamlash and Brodick - Visitors are welcome to these seasonal facilities, you are asked to wear flat shoes. There is normally someone on hand to show you how to play if you've never tried before. The greens are only open in good weather to avoid wear. £3 per adult £1.50 for concessions.
 * Swim at Auchrannie Resort in Brodick or the Kinloch Hotel in Blackwaterfoot. Minimum ages to swim solo are 12 at Auchrannie and 17 at the Kinloch.
 * Cinema: Screen Machine is a mobile cinema that tours the Highlands and Islands. It occasionally visits Brodick, parking at the Auchrannie Resort.
 * Swim at Auchrannie Resort in Brodick or the Kinloch Hotel in Blackwaterfoot. Minimum ages to swim solo are 12 at Auchrannie and 17 at the Kinloch.
 * Cinema: Screen Machine is a mobile cinema that tours the Highlands and Islands. It occasionally visits Brodick, parking at the Auchrannie Resort.

Events

 * Ultra Rat Race is an ultra-marathon of 59 miles (100 km) over two days, next held 20-21 April 2024.
 * Arran Mountain Festival is next held 17-20 May 2024. It includes the Goatfell Hill Race, 15 km with ascent and descent of 874 m on rough mountain tracks - the course record is 74 min.
 * Arran Folk Festival is next held on 7-9 June 2024.
 * Arran Whisky Festival is held at Lochranza and Lagg Distilleries, with the next on 28-30 June 2024.
 * Summer Ceilidhs are held in Brodick Wednesday evenings July-Aug and in Lochranza Thursday evenings Aug.
 * Arran Agricultural Show is held at Glenkiln Farm, Lashlash. The next is probably 7 Aug 2024, tbc.
 * Brodick Highland Games are held in Ormidale Park, with the next on Sa 10 Aug 2024.
 * McLellan Arts Festival is probably next held 23 Aug - 7 Sep 2024, tbc.
 * Festival of Food and Drink is in September, with the next probably 11-22 Sept 2024, tbc.
 * Music Arran hold classical concerts monthly throughout the year, usually in Brodick village hall.

Eat
As well as those listed, most of the hotels serve meals to non-residents, see Sleep.

Splurge

 * Auchrannie Resort has three restaurants, all with bars and terraces / patios for outdoor dining.
 * - Eighteen69 is in the glasshouse with sea views and serves Scottish tapas. It's closed until 21 March 2024 but its bar remains open.
 * - Brambles is a seafood restaurant and grill, open daily 7:30AM-9:30PM.
 * - Cruize Bar Brasserie is modern cuisine with a children's menu, open daily 7:30AM-9:30PM.



Drink

 * See also Sleep: most hotels have public bars with food, including the three within Auchrannie Resort.


 * Arran Botanical Drinks is the trading name of Isle of Arran Gin Co, at Cladach by the entrance to Brodick Castle. No tours.
 * Arran Botanical Drinks is the trading name of Isle of Arran Gin Co, at Cladach by the entrance to Brodick Castle. No tours.
 * Arran Botanical Drinks is the trading name of Isle of Arran Gin Co, at Cladach by the entrance to Brodick Castle. No tours.

Basics

 * Stock up before you come over on the ferry, including on fuel. There’s an Asda in Ardrossan by the pier.


 * Brodick has two Co-op supermarkets and Lamlash has one, all open daily from 7AM-10PM.
 * Whiting Bay has two grocery stores, one at the Gulf petrol station, and one in the village centre which also has hot food to go and a deli. Just outside Whiting Bay, Kirkend Nurseries sells exotic and hard-to-get food and old-fashioned sweets as well as plants.
 * Kildonan Hotel has a shop selling basics such as bread, milk and tinned food.
 * Farmers' market at Kilmory Community Hall is on the last Saturday of every month.
 * Blackwaterfoot has a grocery store, open daily (but closed from 1PM on Wednesday). Kinloch Hotel Bakery sells pizzas (closed Wednesday and Sunday). Galbraiths is a butcher shop.
 * Pirnmill Village Store and Post Office has food and alcohol.
 * Lochranza campsite sells basics.

Budget

 * Wild camping is permitted in many places, thanks to the Right to Access laws.

Mid-range



 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.

Connect
As of Oct 2023, the east coast from Brodick through Lamlash to Whiting Bay has 4G from Three, a basic mobile signal from EE and Vodaphone, but nothing from O2. The southwest coast has Vodafone up as far as Blackwaterfoot, but there's no signal in the north or northwest. 5G has not reached Arran.

Places with public internet include:
 * Arran Library in Brodick (open Tu Th F 10AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-1PM).
 * Auchrannie Resort will let you onto their Wifi for the price of a drink in the Bar.
 * Out of town try Kinloch Hotel in Blackwaterfoot or Lochranza Hotel.

Stay safe
Arran is very safe but has the usual hazards: road traffic, water safety, hill-walking especially if the weather closes in, the occasional aggressive drunk, petty theft, and so on. Common nuisances, as elsewhere in western Scotland, are sunburn, midge bites, blisters and hypothermia, sometimes all on the same day.

Pharmacies are in Brodick (+44 1770 302250), Lamlash (+44 1770 600275) and Whiting Bay (+44 1770 700584), all closed on Sunday.

Arran Medical Group has five surgeries. In an emergency call 999.

Go next

 * Most visitors return via Ardrossan. No reason to linger there, but in Alloway near Ayr  is the Robert Burns Heritage Park. From Girvan further south boat trips sail to Ailsa Craig.
 * The ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig lands you within 3 miles of Skipness castle, and ten miles from Tarbert, so they can both be visited on day trips from Arran. Stretching south for 40 miles is the  Kintyre peninsula, with the small island of Gigha just west, and the Mull of Kintyre almost within shouting distance of Northern Ireland.
 * Tarbert has a ferry to the Cowal peninsula, a scenic route back to Glasgow, also to Islay (from which you reach Jura), and to Colonsay.