Irkutsk

Irkutsk (Russian: Ирку́тск; eer-KOOTSK) is capital of the Russian province of Irkutsk Oblast in Eastern Siberia. The historic centre of Irkutsk is included on UNESCO's tentative list of World Heritage Sites.

Understand
Irkutsk was founded in 1661 as a settlement for trading gold and furs. It was connected to Europe via a road constructed in 1760.

After the Decemberist Revolt of 1825, many Russian artists, officers, and nobles were sent into exile to Siberia for their part in the revolt against Tsar Nicholas I and in the late 1800s, 30% of the population of the city were exiles. Irkutsk became the major centre of intellectual and social life for these exiles, and much of the city's cultural heritage is a result of these exiles. Many of their wooden houses, adorned with ornate, hand-carved decorations, survive today in stark contrast with the surrounding Soviet apartment blocks. Around 1900, the city was nicknamed the "Paris of Siberia" due to its wide streets and ornate, continental architecture, but travellers today will find little resemblance with Paris.

During the civil war that broke out after the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917-1922, Irkutsk became the site of many furious, bloody clashes between the "Whites" and the "Reds" (aka Bolsheviks). A number of city landmarks remain from that era. In 1920, Kolchak, the once-feared commander of the largest contingent of anti-Bolshevik forces, was executed in Irkutsk, effectively destroying the anti-Bolshevik resistance.

Today, Irkutsk is the 6th largest city in Siberia, with a growing population of more than 590,000 people. It's home to several universities and a major branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, due to its proximity to Lake Baikal.

Climate
In July, the average temperature is 18°C (64°F) with a bit of rain, but by January, the temperature plunges in typically Siberian fashion to -19°C (-2°F). Early September finds the local foliage at its finest.

By plane


Buses, trams, and minibuses run frequently between the airport and Kirov Square (near the Angara Hotel) and other points in the historical center. A trip via public transport costs approximately ₽30. Taxi services are available via mobile application or phone, Yandex and Maxim are the most common. I-Way transfers taxi service may be the choice for business travellers and guests (booking via website or app in advance). Private drivers offer their services at the airport but you must be careful, there is some risk of fraud.

By train




Most travellers arrive in Irkutsk via the Trans-Siberian Railway. Irkutsk is about halfway between Moscow and the two eastern terminus cities, Vladivostok and Beijing, making it a good place to break the trip, if only to stretch your legs and buy provisions. The Baikal-Amur Mainline, connecting with more northerly cities, also runs nearby.

Apart from Moscow there are also direct carriages from most cities in Russia such as Saint Petersburg (86 hours), as well as from Minsk (94 hours) and Warsaw (113 hours).

Other popular destinations include Vladivostok, Beijing, Ulaanbaatar, Novosibirsk, Chelyabinsk, Chita, Khabarovsk, Severobaykalsk, Ulan-Ude, Neryungri, Blagoveshchensk, Ust-Ilimsk, Novokuznetsk, Penza, Kislovodsk and Abakan.

Be wary of the taxi-drivers at the station if arriving on a late-night train. A taxi ride to the centre of town should only cost ₽200-300. Unlicensed taxis will overcharge you. If there is a disagreement, ask your hostel/hotel owner to come to the taxi and arrange the correct fare.

By car
Irkutsk is not only on the railway across Russia, but also on the 11,000 km Trans-Siberian Highway from St. Petersburg to Vladivostok.

By foot
The historical center of Irkutsk is relatively compact and walkable. Traffic congestion is not bad for a city of nearly 600,000 people.

By public transport
For those who want to save time or travel between one side of the river and the other, the public transit system is a good option. Knowing at least how to read the signs on the buses and bus stops is helpful, and on the minibuses, one must call out to the driver to request a stop. Oddly enough, the names of major bus stops are posted on kiosk roofs parallel to the road so that the names are not often visible from inside the bus. Bus and minibus ("marshrutka") fare is usually ₽15. Local etiquette is to pay the driver when exiting the bus and trolley (therefore you can exit it only through the front door). In trams tickets should be purchased from driver, then stamped in the machine on board.

A map of tram lines and a map of trolleybus lines are available.

Bike rental
Skiwalker, Kultukskaya Ulitza #15, offers bicycle rental.

See
Among the Soviet concrete monstrosities, Irkutsk features many of atmospheric, decaying wooden buildings. Most of these are either abandoned or still used as private residences and add to the atmosphere of the city.

Museums




Estates




Religious buildings




Other places








Do

 * Walk down Ul. Uritskovo, a pedestrian street with shops and cafes.
 * Walk down Ul. Uritskovo, a pedestrian street with shops and cafes.
 * Walk down Ul. Uritskovo, a pedestrian street with shops and cafes.
 * Walk down Ul. Uritskovo, a pedestrian street with shops and cafes.
 * Walk down Ul. Uritskovo, a pedestrian street with shops and cafes.

Learn

 * Alliance française.
 * Irkutsk state university.

Buy
Wood carvings, birchwood boxes, and lacquer boxes are typical souvenirs of Siberia. A few hotels have souvenir stalls in the lobby, and the Regional Museum at Ul. Karla Marksa 2 has a decent selection in their gift shop as well.

Kamusi are winter boots used by native Siberians made out of deer, elk, or other fur. One place to buy is at a small shop across from the bus station at Ul. Oktyabrskoi Revolyutsii 20B called "Aikhal". It is in a courtyard behind some kiosks, so it takes some searching. They have kamusi for men, women, and children, with prices starting at about ₽3000.

Eat
For a local speciality, Omul, Sig and Kharius are local fishes found in the lake Baikal (available in many restaurants). Cold smoked kharius is good with beer. Hot smoked kharius you can find in Listvyanka or Kultuk villages near Baikal lake. Price depends on fish size and is usually about ₽150-25 for one. In the Central or New market (Noviy Rinok) you can buy kharius and sig caviar - tasty.

National Buryat big dumplings (boozy, pozy) can be found in Amrita cafés. It's a special Buryat fast food chain with some cafés in the middle of town. Cheap, tasty. Pozy is a steamed meat (beef with pork) big dumplings that must be eaten using only hands.

Budget

 * Cafe Shokolad at Ul. Dekyabrskikh Sobytii 102 behind the wedding palace, is a clean, modern cafe with good salads, reasonably-priced main courses, and, as their name suggests, sumptuous desserts. A bit outside the historical center (near the TANK bus stop), it is a good place to relax after an excursion to the Sukachev Estate down the street.
 * Pizza Domino with no relation to the US chain, is at Lenina 13A across from the Lenin Statue. They do pizzas, soups, and other quick meals.  Very cheap, and open 24 hours.
 * Pizza Pinocchio near the Angara Hotel on Kirov Square and other locations; quick and inexpensive pizzas that are sometimes reheated in a microwave.

Drink

 * Liverpool — Is a somewhat Beatles themed restaurant which also works as a superb nightclub with young beautiful Russian hipsters and 2 dance floors. Not much on out of season. Said only 1 beer on which was of course the most expensive!

Balsams Buryatia and Amrita are very nice Buryat alcoholic drinks (costs about ₽180 each 0.75 liter). Thay are also very helpful against cold. Balsam Buryatia was consecrated by Dalai-Lama XIV, as it says label on the bottle.

Sleep
Many locals have rooms for rent and services such as Airbnb are popular ways of finding accommodation.



Consulates

 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇱🇹 Lithuania
 * 🇲🇳 Mongolia
 * 🇵🇱 Poland
 * 🇰🇷 South Korea

Go next

 * Listvyanka is the closest village to see Lake Baikal. Purchase bus tickets online or at the bus station at ulitsa Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii, 11.
 * Irkutsk port serves boats to Ust-Barguzin, Nizhneangarsk, Bolshoye Koty, Listvyanka and port Baikal on the Circum-Baikal Railway.
 * Circum-Baikal Railway and the southmost village on the shore Slyudyanka.
 * Daily trains to Mongolia arrive after 36 hours to Ulaanbaatar.
 * Daily trains to Mongolia arrive after 36 hours to Ulaanbaatar.
 * Daily trains to Mongolia arrive after 36 hours to Ulaanbaatar.
 * Daily trains to Mongolia arrive after 36 hours to Ulaanbaatar.
 * Daily trains to Mongolia arrive after 36 hours to Ulaanbaatar.
 * Daily trains to Mongolia arrive after 36 hours to Ulaanbaatar.