Hua Hin

Hua Hin (หัวหิน) is a seaside resort city of about 50,000 residents (2012) in Thailand. Three or four hours south of Bangkok (195 km), it is popular with middle-aged and older foreign visitors, as a weekend getaway spot for Bangkok Thais, and as an expat retirement home.

Understand


Popularised as a resort in the early 1920s by King Prajadhipok, Hua Hin is closely associated with the Thai royal family and is a quiet and relaxing seaside resort ideal for family vacation. Until 1934, it was known as Samore Riang (สมอเรียง), or 'rows of rocks'.

The fishing village was turned into a royal resort and consequently became popular among Siam's nobility and upper classes. In 1928, Prajadhipok built his Klai Kangwon ('far from worries') Palace. As of 2020, Klai Kangwon is a little-used summer residence of the king and is not open for visitors, although the outer palace grounds are open for walkers and joggers from 16:00 to 19:00 daily (wear shoes, have sleeved shirts that cover at least your upper arms and bring your passport).

The six kilometre-long beach is pretty and relatively clean, more so than Pattaya's, and the cleanliness of the sea is rated "fair". Most of the beach can completely disappear along certain parts of the coast during high tide. Besides just sunbathing, snorkelling and swimming, visitors can also enjoy golf, spas, caves, peaks, waterfalls, shops, seafood, and nearby national parks. The town is clean, friendly, and laid-back, making it ideal for families and couples.

Tourist information can be found from the corner of Petchkasem Rd and Damnerkasem Rd (Soi 76), quite close to the railway station.

There is also a tourist information centre near the clock tower in the centre of town, which is right next to a Starbucks for those of you requiring a caffeine fix. This is also where many minivans stop to offload and pick up passengers, even though it is not the official bus station, and consequently is an easy place to find a motorcycle taxi or tuk-tuk.

The town of Hua Hin cannot be called scenic. Aside from the beach, the grounds of posh hotels, and the several blocks west of the Hilton Hotel, there is no place to stroll in Hua Hin. The town lacks a central square or focal point. Like most Thai towns, Hua Hin is a nightmare for pedestrians and impossible for those with physical disabilities, the blind, and wheelchair users. Signage and other obstacles impede sidewalks, where there are sidewalks, every few metres. Phetkasem Road, which divides the town into two halves, is a virtual racetrack, with few concessions like crosswalks for those on foot or bicycle lanes for cyclists.

Orientation


Hua Hin has no real "centre". A nondescript clock tower on Phetkasem Road serves as a de facto transportation hub, where minivans from the north arrive and minivans to the south depart. The tower is just north of Soi 61.

Phetkasem Road bisects the town, leading to Cha-am in the north and Prachuap Khiri Khan in the south. Roads perpendicular to Phetkasem on the inland side are even-numbered sois. Those on the sea-side are odd-numbered. The numbers do not match up across Phetkasem. For example, Soi 61 leads to the central seaside area around the Hilton Hotel. The same street on the other side of Phetkasem is Soi 76. It leads to the railway station. At the northeast corner of the Soi 61/Soi 76 intersection you will find the tourist information centre. Behind it is the central police station. Across the street from the police station is a post office. Continuing down Soi 61 to the beach is the office of the Tourist Police.

Climate
Hua Hin has a tropical climate with high humidity and occasional rain. It is typically pleasant however, and can be enjoyed year round. Generally, the best time of the year to visit Hua Hin is in the cool season from November to February, but for those who like it hot, then the hot season is from March to May (when the temperature can well exceed ). The rainy season (although it doesn't rain every day) is from June to October with September being the rainiest of all. The rain in Thailand usually comes in short sharp bursts. It doesn't usually drizzle for long periods of time.

Environment
The quality of the waters of the Gulf of Thailand off central Hua Hin were rated "fair" in 2015 by the Pollution Control Department. But, the report noted that "... the main tourism areas, namely Cha–Am Beach... and Hua Hin Beach... should be consistently monitored, since enterococci (fecal) bacteria levels exceeded the standard...."

One of the first things a visitor to Hua Hin notices is the blizzard of signage. Evidently anyone can put up a sign. Hotels and other commercial enterprises design their signs to look like official signage. They and every other type of sign imaginable degrade the environment and contribute to its ugliness. Town officials do not enforce existing sign ordinances.

Signage is Thai nightmare, however Thais do not object. Every sign poster is actually approved  by the local authority and a fee is paid per day.

By train
Arriving by train is convenient, but often slower compared to buses. There's up to ten daily departures from Bangkok with a journey time of about four hours. Almost all trains heading south from Bangkok stops in Hua Hin. Ticket price is around 100 baht for express trains and 50 bath for slower ordinary trains.



By bus
The main (BKS) bus station is south of the centre of town on Phetkasem Rd just south of Soi 96. This is some three kilometres south of town centre. A tuk-tuk there costs ~180 baht, motorcycle taxi from the Hilton Hotel area, 60 baht. This bus station is for conventional buses which go to Ubon, Korat, Chiang Mai (850 baht), Surat Thani, Phuket, and points further south. The government bus company (BKS) ticket office is open daily from 06:00-24:00.

Coaches from Hua Hin to Pattaya and Suvarnabhumi Airport operated by the Roong Reuang Coach Company depart from the Roong Reuang Coach Terminal (March 2020). The terminal is seven kilometres north of town centre, near the Hua Hin Airport on the sea side of Phetkasem Road.

Local, non-air conditioned buses to Pranburi (25 km) depart from the road adjacent to the fresh market in town center. BKS buses go to the BKS Station near Soi 96 on Phetkasem. Stop the bus at any point prior to this if you want to get off. The clock tower on the left (coming from Bangkok) is the effective town "centre" (keep your eyes open as it is easy to miss).


















 * The bus from Hua Hin to Pattaya leaves Roong Reuang Coach Terminal daily at 11:00, stopping to pick-up passengers in Cha-am in front of the Government Savings Bank at 11:30. Drop off in Pattaya at the Pattaya Bus Station on N Pattaya Road. Duration is 4-5 hr. Tickets may be purchased at the Bell Travel website.}}
 * The bus from Hua Hin to Pattaya leaves Roong Reuang Coach Terminal daily at 11:00, stopping to pick-up passengers in Cha-am in front of the Government Savings Bank at 11:30. Drop off in Pattaya at the Pattaya Bus Station on N Pattaya Road. Duration is 4-5 hr. Tickets may be purchased at the Bell Travel website.}}









By mini-van
Cha-am; Phetchaburi; Mahachai: Ticket windows 1-2-3-4-5-7-10-11 Bangkok (Southern Bus Station-Pinklao): 1-2-3-5-10 Bangkok (Mo Chit 2 Bus Station): 2-7-11 Bangkok (Ekkamai Bus Station): 4 Nakhon Pathom: 8 Kanchanaburi: 9 You are not obliged to ride to the final destination. Those going to Bangkok can ask to get off at a BTS (Skytrain) or MRT (Metro) station en route.
 * Go to the ticket window indicated for travel to the following destinations:
 * Go to the ticket window indicated for travel to the following destinations:



By taxi
Taxi service from Hua Hin to Bangkok (a distance of about 200 km) is widely advertised and available. Price after negotiation should be around 2,000 baht. Limousine service, available at Bangkok Airport, is more expensive.

Taxis are bookable via agents around town. Many can be found along Phetkasem Rd, especially around Market Village or downtown. Taxis to or from Pattaya are around 3,000 baht.

By ferry
By 02/2023 the ferry is not operational after being suspended because of Covid.
 * As of late 2020 the ferry service has been permanently cancelled.
 * There are no ferries direct from Hua Hin, Lomprayah offer a bus service to the ferry at Chompon 270km south of Hua Hin.

Get around
Most visitors rely on the regular green songthaews that run up and down Phetkasem Road all day at about 10-minute intervals. Fare is 10 baht. Their northern terminus is the fresh market in town centre; in the south they turn about in Khao Takiap. Songthaews service Phetkasem north of the central market, but with less frequency.

There are many motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks, fewer car taxis. Negotiate prices beforehand. You will not get a tuk-tuk for less than 100 baht over any distance (unless you are lucky) if you are a Western tourist. Settle on a price before hiring. You may also be able to find samlors (rickshaws) in town centre. Alternatively, you can use Grab for car taxi and motorcycle taxi. Motorcycle rentals are readily available, for 150-200 baht per day, seasonally variable. Hua Hin is flat, and bicycling is a good way to get around. Rentals are available, also from hotels, but are not as prevalent as motorbikes (you can rent bicycles at the entrance of the Hua Hin beach.





See


There is only one, long beach: Hua Hin Beach (ชายหาดหัวหิน Hat Hua Hin). This runs from the Hilton Hotel six kilometres south to a headland where a Buddhist temple clings to the rocks. Fine white sand, resort hotels and many water sports opportunities lend the resort its distinctive ambiance. At the south end of town, the hill of Khao Takiab interrupts the beach. On the other side is a lovely swimming beach with a view of Khao Takiab's south face. Just a little further on, Suan Son Beach is owned by the Thai army but is open to the public. Notable for the tropical sea pines lining the shore.

Parts of the beach closer to the town may have greenish water, in this case continue walking down the beach where the water appears cleaner. There is an ample supply of deck chairs along the beach, although many places charge around 100 baht for their hire. Deck chairs that are part of a beachside cafe may be free, on the assumption that you will buy food or drink.

Some entrances to the beach are controlled by hotels—what looks like a road to the beach on a map might really be a hotel's private driveway.



















Nature



 * Some attractions in the park:











Golf
Hua Hin and its surroundings are a golfer's paradise with at least seven courses within a 30 min drive. There are also two brand new golf courses under construction. Most courses offer transportation to and from the course. The town hosted its first Asian tour event in 2009 at the Black Mountain course, while other first class courses in easy reach include Majestic Creek, Royal Hua Hin, Banyan, Palm Hills, Lake View, and Springfield. There are several driving ranges.





Massage
Thai massage shops aim mostly at extracting money from your wallet. Claims for its holistic health benefits by enhancing physical, emotional, and spiritual states are mostly hogwash. The majority of massage places are fairly dumpy except at the high end, do not have soothing background music, nor the scent of Asian incense. The exceptions are high-end and expensive.

There are over 200 massage shops in Hua Hin. Most have identical prices. Most hotels in Hua Hin offer massage services. On Petchkasem Road next to the Golden Palace and the Royal Palace one can be massaged by good, professional blind masseuses. This is a royal sponsored project, although little English is spoken.

Massage prices in the tourist area near the Hilton Hotel average about 300 baht per hour. Massage shops in the town proper are cheaper for equivalent massage, as low as 200 baht per hour.

Spas
Spas in Hua Hin offer treatment suited to a range of budgets. Treatments includes both traditional remedies and modern techniques. Facilities at spas in Hua Hin may also include a Jacuzzi and steam bath.

Many spas in Hua Hin also offer traditional Thai healing treatments. There is also alternative treatment such as Reiki. Resorts offer many detox programs. The most popular treatments are chi organ massage, karsai genital detox massage, deeper skin detox, and herbal skin detox.

Other

 * Elephant camps and trekking can be found just west of town.
 * Fishing and eco-cruises can be done both at sea and inland.
 * Fitness and martial arts can be practiced either in gymnasiums around town or in the top hotels.
 * Karting can be enjoyed at the karting track near the airport. The 700 m circuit has a banked curve for speed, floodlighting, beer garden, and catering.
 * Kite-boarding is a popular in Hua Hin. There are several schools giving lessons and tuition with equipment for hire. Conditions are good from Jan-May as thermals blow in the afternoon at 14-20 knots. The water is shallow, can be choppy and has a beach break. Hua Hin has very good kite boarding conditions with shallow, warm waters. There is a northerly east wind from October–January with wind ranging from 15–25 knots. From February–May Hua Hin has a southerly thermal wind that gusts to 15–20 knots in the afternoon. There are good conditions for kite surfing in both of these seasons.
 * Pony rides on Hua Hin beach
 * Walking and cycling are popular in Hua Hin thanks to the mostly flat terrain and clean gulf air.
 * Water sports in Hua Hin include swimming, banana boat rides, water skiing, jet-skiing, sailing, windsurfing, para-sailing, kayaking, snorkelling and scuba-diving.
 * Water sports in Hua Hin include swimming, banana boat rides, water skiing, jet-skiing, sailing, windsurfing, para-sailing, kayaking, snorkelling and scuba-diving.

Thai cooking
A few Thai cooking schools have sprung up in Hua Hin where tourists can learn the art of serving up their favourite Thai dishes such as pad Thai (Thai-style fried noodles), tom yum kung, Panang curry with beef and chicken and cashews. Courses vary in length from just a single day to a few. Courses are available at most of the large hotels. Ask around.

Buy
Shop at the night markets. Things that you can buy range from T-shirts to antiques. A T-shirt will cost you around 300 baht. It is also a great place for contemporary art handicrafts, hand-woven printed cotton, silk fabric, silk weaving, embroidery, baskets, pottery, wood carvings, gemstones, and jewellery (including sapphires and rubies). Haggling is mandatory to get the best prices possible.

Hua Hin's night market is in the middle of Hua Hin. It is tourist-oriented. For local handicrafts, the Hua Hin Bazaar, about 100 m west of the beach, should be your first stop.

Only on Tuesdays is the Pae Market near the Royal Hua Hin Golf Club. It's a good place to get the feel of a traditional Thai market.















French connection






Souvenirs
Souvenirs from Hua Hin include accessories from coconut shells, printed fabric in traditional Thai patterns, brooms, utensils made of sisal fibre, bamboo woven products, as well as fresh and preserved food.

One of Hua Hin's most renowned local products is pha phim khommaphat or printed cotton, a typical product of Hua Hin which is sold by the metre. The finished khommaphat print is colourful and can be turned into shirts, handkerchiefs, wraps, even toy elephants or fish, as well as decorative pieces such as pillows, bags, fans.

A large variety of other cotton products are also obtainable, such as place mats, tablecloths, and pillowcases.



Eat
There are plenty of eating options around Hua Hin. Those close to the beach and at Khao Takiap are touristy, while some good local options can be found on Phetkasem Rd along the way to Khao Takiap. Hua Hin is known for its seafood which can be found in abundance at the night market, restaurants, and hotel restaurants. Naresdamri Road is a fine place for great inexpensive restaurants while serving up romantic sea views. Some hotels offer buffets consisting of open cooking stations, including seafood BBQ, and also offer live entertainment like traditional Thai music and dancing.

Surprisingly, in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic in spring 2021, Soi 94 has bloomed into a happening street with many restaurants and bars of all types.

This area is the site of the Hua Hin Fishing Harbour and in the early morning, seafood can be purchased (its provenance is unknown as the Gulf of Thailand is increasingly fished out).

Moreover, there are numerous dining spots serving Western, Indian, and Japanese food.

Three Hua Hin Italian restaurants, Andreas, Da Mario, and La Grappa, were named in the 2020 edition of the Guidebook to Italian Cuisine, having passed rigorous testing by Italy's tourism bureau. They use 100% Italian ingredients and recipes.

For cheap eats, check out the night market or the Grand Market. Budget tourists having problems with the local fare will be happy to know that at the Tesco in the posh Market Village mall, there's street-style Thai food with modern fast food hygiene and air-conditioning: 25-70 baht, and good coffee for 10 baht.























Alcohol
As of February 2019, bars close at 02:00 in Hua Hin. Subject to change depending on the mood of the government.

Raucous nightlife can be found in the little quarter just inland from the Hilton Hotel. The warren of small streets around Dechanuchit Rd and Soi Bintabaht teems with bars, restaurants, and massage parlours. This area is heavily frequented by tourists.

A second street with lots of beer bars and hostesses is Soi 80, on the west side of Rte 4. It's mostly patronised by resident expats.









Budget
Hua Hin is relatively expensive for accommodation, with few options below 400 baht. The best area for budget rooms seems to be around the corner from the Hilton Hotel, on the street parallel to the water.





Mid-range
















Splurge






























Renting a house for a long stay
If you're staying for a month or more, then Hua Hin has great options. The price for renting a nice villa with private pool can be as low as 20,000 baht. Houses have modern furniture and are ready to move into. Best way to find a house is to go to realty agencies around the Hilton Hotel. They pick you up from your hotel and show options for your budget and taste. Best strategy is to contact by them email a week before, so they will make a selection beforehand.

Cope
It would seem that if you are not Thai, you are viewed by the Thai police as a walking ATM. Should a cop be short of beer money and see you not wearing a helmet while on a motorbike, you are likely to be stopped and shaken down for cash. The police box at the SE corner of Soi 61 and Phetkasem Road seems to be where they send officers who are short of cash. The cop on duty will often signal farang to the roadside for some infraction, often trumped up, or for a sobriety test. Most of the time, you will pay cash on the spot, 200 baht and up, to be allowed to go on your way. Another danger spot is Phetkasem Road between Sois 67 and 69. There is a pedestrian bridge across the road there that affords the cops some shade, plus a Family Mart so that they are never short of cold drinks. At this spot they stop all vehicles, usually in late morning, to check for driver's licenses or proof of rental or passports or whatever else they need to have you pay on the spot. The good news is that this roadblock does not operate when it is too hot, rainy, on weekends or at hours requiring the payment of overtime.



Immigration






Postal






Medical and dental
Perhaps due to the population of aged foreigners, there are two large private hospitals in Hua Hin, both on Phetkasem Road. Medical and dental clinics are not hard to find on the main road also.













Reading matter
There are a number of English-language publications, offering a variety of styles, as well as information and entertainment. Long-time visitors to the town will have been familiar with the free monthly Hua Hin Observer magazine found around the town, but in Jan 2010, this became an on-line-only publication. Another monthly publication is the Hua Hin Today newspaper which can be a little dry for tourists, as it contains plenty of local government and local dignitaries news along with details of the latest infrastructure projects and housing developments. Its on-line presence is more of a portal for international news and selling property than a local site.

There are a number of other printed publications and Internet sites relating to Hua Hin, but they are mostly concerned with selling or renting property, or promoting another local business. There are also a couple of non-English language publications with a small distribution.

Surveillance
Thailand is rapidly becoming a surveillance state. CCTV cameras are being installed at a rapid pace. To send a package, purchase a bus ticket, SIM card, or hotel room you will need to produce a passport. As of October 2019 coffee shops are required to keep a log of all web browsing done on their premises for 90 days.

Go next

 * Amphawa
 * Bangkok
 * Cha-am
 * Chumphon - ferry to Ko Tao
 * Damnoen Saduak
 * Kaeng Krachan National Park - Thailand's largest national park is just west of Hua Hin
 * Kanchanaburi
 * Ko Samui
 * Ko Tao – for diving
 * Pattaya – via 2 hr ferry, short cut to Trat's Ko Chang
 * Phetchaburi - an hour away by train (13-43 baht depending on train type). A good option is to take the 11:46 train and return in the evening (several trains, the first at 16:11).
 * Samut Songkhram
 * Surat Thani
 * Wildlife Rescue Centre and Elephant Refuge