Hong Kong/New Territories



The New Territories (新界) of Hong Kong were leased by China to the British in 1898. Often ignored by travellers who have little time to spare, they offer a diverse landscape that takes time to get to know. Mountainous country parks overlook New Towns that have a clinical form of modernity that has attracted many to move here from mainland China. Public transport and taxis make this area surprisingly accessible if you dare to get out and explore this offbeat place. You won't find many idyllic villages, but once you get over the stray dogs and the ramshackle buildings you will doubtlessly find something that will surprise and cause you to reach for your camera.

Get in
Areas near the border with mainland China are part of the Frontier Closed Area, meaning that it is illegal for non-residents to be there without a permit unless you are crossing the border. Permits can be applied for from the Hong Kong police, but will usually not be approved unless you are a close family member of a local resident. A pilot Tourism Closed Area Permit Scheme has opened up a limited number of permits for tourists to visit Sha Tau Kok only.

By train
The MTR has absorbed the old Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR) to form a larger network that links the New Territories with Kowloon. Confusingly, you may find some local people still referring to the railways in the New Territories as the KCR.

The East Rail Line from Admiralty connects to Sheung Shui, Fanling, Tai Po and Sha Tin on its way to the border with Shenzhen at Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau.

The western section of the Tuen Ma Line from Mei Foo or Nam Cheong is the choice if you want to go to Tsuen Wan, Kam Tin, Long Ping, Yuen Long, Tin Shui Wai or Tuen Mun, while the eastern section provides service between Diamond Hill and Woo Kai Sha, and is convenient for heading out east towards the Sai Kung peninsula.

The Light Rail network in the west region of New Territories might be a good transportation means if you intend to travel through some of the areas in between Yuen Long, Tin Shui Wai or Tuen Mun. There are several interchange stations with the Tuen Ma line along the network and there is a fare discount when you are interchanging from the Tuen Ma line to the Light Rail, or vice versa, if you are using the Octopus card.

By bus
Kowloon Motor Bus operates a large number of bus routes to the New Territories. Many routes depart from Kowloon to the New Territories.


 * To Tuen Mun: 52X, 53, 57M, 58M, 58X, 59M, 59X, 60M, 60X, 61M, 61X, 62X, 66, 66M, 66X, 67M, 67X, 258D, 259D, 260X, 261, 263, 263M, 960, 961, 962
 * To Tai Po: 72, 72X, 73X, 74A, 74X, 75X, 271, 307 (from Central, Hong Kong).
 * From the airport: E41, E42, E33, E34, A41, A41P, A43

Bus 64K from Tai Po to Yuen Long provides a convenient (if rather slow) shortcut across the Territories, passing some attractions including the Wishing Tree and the walled village of Kat Hing Wai along the way.


 * To Sai Kung: take the MTR to Diamond Hill station, leave the MTR and follow signs to the bus station that is located at ground level above the station. Take bus 92 to Sai Kung and allow 45 minutes for the journey.
 * MTR also operates several local bus routes within Tuen Mun, Yuen Long and Tai Po, which mostly contain intermediate bus stop or terminus in some major railway stations, providing a connection service between some residential areas and villages and town centres.

By bike
Whilst cycling on Hong Kong Island or Kowloon may be suicidal due to the hostile traffic conditions, things are much easier in the New Territories. Quiet countryside roads, mountain-bike trails and segregated cycle paths alongside busy roads make for pleasant cycling for people of all abilities. Bike rental is available from many locations including Sha Tin, Tai Po Market and Yuen Long, to name a few. Rental fees are approx $30-60 per day for a standard 21-speed commuter bike, or up to $150 a day for a top-end road or mountain bike. It's advisable to keep a good supply of water if you plan on cycling away form the urban areas, as high temperatures and hilly terrain can cause rapid dehydration. Once away from the new towns, there won't be a 7-Eleven in sight. Although small local convenience shops, called 士多 (translated from the English word "store") are common in some villages, especially along famous cycling routes (usually they would have a soft-drink logo advertisement printed next to their name of the shop billboard), their opening times might be unpredictable for tourists.

See


The main attractions of the New Territories are about experiencing rural life in Hong Kong life, as opposed to the urban energy of Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula. Although Hong Kong island has some attractive country parks they are eclipsed by those in the more remote areas of the New Territories. The New Towns are of limited interest to most Western tourists for whom the most engaging settlement in the New Territories is Sai Kung which has a number of restaurants and bars that will appeal to visitors because of its slower pace of life. Sai Kung also acts as a gateway into some of the best countryside you are likely to find in Hong Kong.

Landmarks

 * Red House, near Tuen Mun Public Riding School (Light Rail Butterfly station). This is a memorial building to Dr. Sun Yat-sen. The house and the farm was where Dr. Sun Yat-sen planned to overthrow the Qing dynasty. It is named after its appearance, red bricks with plastering in red. The two-storey house is a combination of Chinese and Western architecture. Adjacent to the house is a garden commemorating Dr. Sun Yat Sen and is one of a few places in Hong Kong where the Flag of the Republic of China is flown freely.

Nature



 * The Sai Kung Peninsula is also a worthwhile place to visit. Its mountainous terrain and spectacular coastal scenery make this a special place. If you like challenging routes, try going to Sharp Peak (Nam She Tsim in Cantonese). Sharp Peak is famous for its steep slope with a height of more than 400m. The view from the top is fantastic. For a more relaxed route, try to walk along Section 2 of Maclehose Trail.
 * Yan Chau Tong Marine Park.
 * A few traditional abandoned villages are connected with hiking trails in the territory. North East New Territories is a famous hiking hot spot for the locals.
 * Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve is home to over 200 species of butterflies, many of which are uncommon elsewhere.
 * A few traditional abandoned villages are connected with hiking trails in the territory. North East New Territories is a famous hiking hot spot for the locals.
 * Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve is home to over 200 species of butterflies, many of which are uncommon elsewhere.
 * Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve is home to over 200 species of butterflies, many of which are uncommon elsewhere.



Temples




Local life


To learn about the living environment of Hong Kong's ordinary people, the best way is to have a half-day trip to a public housing estate. A public housing estate is a small community, where you can find residential flats in high-rise storeys as well as commercial complex and cultural facilities. Start the trip in the morning by "Yum Cha" in a Chinese restaurant or food stall in an estate, then visit the commercial centre and the fresh food market. See the life of school children in the afternoon on the lunch break, and visit the community hall and the library to experience Hong Kong life.
 * Siu Hong Court is right next to Siu Hong MTR Station. In the middle of the court, you can find a fortune which is a ball shape. The lower part represent the bowl and the upper part is the rice. It represent that every people can have a good life after living here.
 * Tsz Tin Village right next to Siu Hong Court. A traditional Hong Kong village.
 * Wan Tau Tong Estate is a 5-minute walk from Tai Po Market MTR Station.
 * Kwong Fuk Estate can be reached by taking the free MTR feeder bus K18 from Tai Po Market MTR Station.
 * Cheung Wah Estate can be reached on foot after arriving Fanling MTR Station.
 * Choi Yuen Estate is adjacent to Sheung Shui MTR Station.

Do
The New Territories offer a wealth of hiking and sports opportunities as well as one favoured Hong Kong pastime, horse racing.

Outdoor sports

 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.
 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.
 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.
 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.

Buy
There are very few products that are unique to the New Territories; however Yuen Long is home to three of the best and best known traditional bakeries in Hong Kong: "Hang Heung", "Wing Wah" and "Tai Tung", "Wing Wah" is also one of the best known producers of traditional wind dried sausages and meats. Especially during the period around the Mid-autumn Festival, when moon cakes become available, mainland Chinese tourists will buy cakes and pastries of various kinds as souvenirs and gifts. The "wife cake" (candied winter melon paste in a flaky pastry wrapping) has perhaps gained the most traction in public consciousness, but all three produce a range of traditional Chinese cakes and pastries, these include red bean paste pastries, mung bean pastries, lotus paste and preserved duck egg pastries and of course moon cakes. Vegetarians, Muslims and Jews beware: many traditional pastries, including the wife cake, have pork lard as one of their ingredients.


 * Uptown Plaza next to Tai Po Market Railway Station is a regional shopping centre in Tai Po.
 * Tai Wo Shopping Mall next to Tai Wo Station is a typical shopping centre in a public housing estate. Do not expect a variety choice of shops are available, but goods are at reasonable price because the target customers are local people.
 * Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its wife cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.
 * Uptown Plaza next to Tai Po Market Railway Station is a regional shopping centre in Tai Po.
 * Tai Wo Shopping Mall next to Tai Wo Station is a typical shopping centre in a public housing estate. Do not expect a variety choice of shops are available, but goods are at reasonable price because the target customers are local people.
 * Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its wife cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.
 * Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its wife cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.

Eat
Even in the New Territories you are never far from international chains such as McDonalds, or local chains such as Cafe de Coral, Fairwoods and Maxims MX. These all serve up a cheap and safe, if somewhat uninspired, standardised menu across their stores, and if no English speaking staff or English menu are available will at the very least have pictures of the menu that you can point at. If you do not feel like eating chain restaurant food, and are not adventurous enough to try your luck with a menu you cannot read and staff you cannot understand, try one of the local self service bakeries for a quick and cheap lunch, you'll find both sweet and savoury filled breads.

Compared with restaurants in Kowloon or Hong Kong Island, the New Territories offers a good range of local dishes, but at a cheaper price. The restaurants recommended here are unlikely to have English menus and the staff are probably not able to speak very good English or Mandarin. If the place is busy, the staff will not have time to help you.

Budget
In the New Territories, there are many places suitable for budget diners with multiple options of cuisine.


 * Wo Sang next to Kei Lun Light rail station in Tuen Mun. It is famous for its traditional Hong Kong dishes. You can sit next to the kitchen and watch how they cook the fried dishes. The roast goose here is also famous.
 * Learn Hop 兩合特色餐廳 next to the Siu Hong MTR station. Located inside the Siu Hong Commercial Complex. It is famous for its choice of Guangdong, wonton and dumpling noodles. Also serves Zha jiang mian.
 * Chan Kun Kee in Wo Che Estate, Sha Tin. A typical Dai Pai Dong in Hong Kong providing a variety of Cantonese dishes. Get off at Sha Tin Railway Station and take a taxi to Wo Che Estate.
 * Cheung Wah Estate Cooked Food Centre near Fanling MTR Station. It is a cooked food centre located in a public housing estate. Dishes start at $10 up.
 * Pai Tau Restaurant, Pai Tau Rd, Sha Tin. This little eatery in a stretch of old shophouses near MTR Sha Tin offers basic Cantonese fare with lunch sets for around $25. No English menu, but the staff are happy to assist.
 * The mall adjacent to the Tsuen Wan MTR station has many cheap little restaurants and the blocks surrounding it have lots of small bakeries. There are worse ways to spend an early morning than wandering around, inhaling the scent of the neighbourhood and snacking on wonderfully flavoured buns and confections from these establishments.
 * The mall adjacent to the Tsuen Wan MTR station has many cheap little restaurants and the blocks surrounding it have lots of small bakeries. There are worse ways to spend an early morning than wandering around, inhaling the scent of the neighbourhood and snacking on wonderfully flavoured buns and confections from these establishments.

Mid-range


If you're looking for an evening out whilst touring in the New Territories, head for Sai Kung (西貢) where you will find a good range of visitor-friendly pubs and restaurants. Sai Kung is rightly famous for its seafood restaurants along the quayside, where you can pick your dinner from an aquarium and have it served any way you like. However, if downing a bucket of bottled beers whilst munching on a plate of crustaceans is not your thing, there is also a fairly good selection of eateries and watering holes to be found in the town centre. Prices here can be reasonable and the cuisine ranges from local to western. Various well-known burger and coffee shops have also found their way to this otherwise secluded part of Hong Kong.

The fastest way to Sai Kung by public transport is to take the MTR to Choi Hung and transfer to minibus 1M (every 5 min) for a straight hop across the mountains. There are public KMB buses from Sha Tin (route 299x) and Wu Kai Sha (route 99) as well, but they take the long way around and spend the better part of an hour in the process. An urban taxi from Central, on Hong Kong island, will cost just under $200 (including tunnel fees).


 * Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.
 * ASRA Indian Restaurant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.
 * Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.
 * ASRA Indian Restaurant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.
 * Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.
 * ASRA Indian Restaurant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.

Drink
In addition to Sai Kung's watering holes (see above), in Tai Po Market there are a number of pubs and country clubs along Kwong Fuk Road and the adjacent Luk Heung Lane, Tung Cheong Street. While lacking the glamour of Hong Kong Island's Central district, the area offers more reasonable prices and a friendlier, more local feel. It is about a 5-minute walk from Tai Po Market MTR Station. Overnight transport is readily available on Kwong Fuk Road to take you back to downtown Kowloon and Hong Kong island.

Postal service

 * Hongkong Post. Has an extensive network of post offices in the New Territories. Some post offices also have a philatelic section and you can purchase Hong Kong stamps and other postal souvenirs there.

Internet access

 * Public libraries provide free access to the Internet. There is at least one library in every district.
 * Community Halls provide wifi to users free of charge.