Hong Kong/Kowloon



Kowloon (九龍 Gáulùhng, "nine dragons" in Cantonese) is an urban peninsula on the mainland part of Hong Kong, to the north of Hong Kong Island, where the central business district is. The mountains that overlook Kowloon account for eight of Kowloon's nine dragons while, as the story goes, the ninth dragon refers to the emperor who counted them. Of the eight mountains that overlook the crowded city, the most famous is Lion Rock, which when seen from the right angle, really does deserve its name.

With over 2.1 million people (2011) living in an area of less than 47 km², Kowloon is one of the most densely populated places on the planet, and has a matching array of places to shop, eat and sleep. Tsim Sha Tsui (尖沙咀) pronounced "Tzeem Sah Jeui", the tip of the peninsula, is Kowloon's main tourist drag and has a mix of backpacker and high-end hotels. Further north, Mong Kok (旺角) has a huge choice of shops and markets in an area of less than a square kilometre.

"Kowloon side", as it is often known, managed to escape some of the British colonial influences that characterise the "Hong Kong Island" side. While prices on Kowloon side tend to be lower, it is also less tourist-friendly and English proficiency is not as strong as on the Hong Kong Island side.

By train
The Airport Express runs from the airport to Kowloon MTR station in south-west Kowloon in 20 minutes. Most of Hong Kong's rail lines converge on the Kowloon Peninsula. If you are travelling from Hong Kong Island, change at Admiralty on the Island Line for the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui from Hong Kong Island. The MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui offers a faster service and is the most popular choice for commuters, so avoid Admiralty interchange during the rush hour (5PM to 7PM). The section of Tseung Kwan O Line between Quarry Bay and Yau Tong can also be used for crossing the harbour, or use the Tung Chung Line to bypass Mong Kok if you're heading to West Kowloon. You can also board at Admiralty or at the Exhibition Centre station (near the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre) to Hung Hom, Mong Kok East or Kowloon Tong using the East Rail line (which was extended in 2022). If you're travelling to Kowloon City however, the new Tuen Ma MTR route has entered service in June 2021. You can also interchange with buses in Hung Hom, Mong Kok or Kowloon Tong.

By taxi
Taking a taxi across the harbour to Kowloon can be slow and expensive due to traffic. Some taxi drivers operate only on one side of the harbour, so you may have to find a taxi rank marked "Cross-harbour trips only." Expect to pay tunnel fees both ways unless you depart from a taxi rank dedicated to cross-harbour service.

By helicopter
Helicopter transfers can be arranged between Hong Kong International Airport and the roof-top landing pad at the Peninsula Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui.

By bus
Citybus provides several bus routes from the Airport terminal. The bus A21 ($33) and its respective night bus N21 ($23) are heading to Tsim Sha Tsui going through Nathan Rd. Get off at the stop #14 (or #36 if using the N21) called "Middle Road" if you're going to the Chungking Mansions. The bus A22 ($39) is going to Lam Tin. Although they take longer than the MTR Airport Express, their fares are much cheaper and they call on many more stops along areas including Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui, as well as some nearby hotels. Prepare the exact amount, no change will be given.

Numerous local buses travel through different areas of Kowloon, as well as between New Territories or Hong Kong island. Bus routes with number-prefix 1XX (e.g. 102, 104, 118), 6XX (e.g. 603, 601), 9XX (e.g. 904, 905) are harbour-crossing buses and they call at the bus interchanges of the tunnels and some routes via Kowloon peninsula.

By public transport
Most of the local bus routes mentioned above are well-suited for getting around within Kowloon as well. The 5 follows Chatham Road north at first on its run from the Star Ferry pier to Fu Shan, with the 6 going northwest from the dock to Lai Chi Kok and providing access to the western side of the peninsula. In the east-west direction, bus 215X leaves from the Kowloon airport train station for Lam Tin, via Tsim Sha Tsui and Kwun Tong. Routes 40 and 214 are some of the main bus routes that travel along hillside developments. Routes 5R, 22, and 22M as well as some minibuses connect from Kai Tak Cruise Terminal to different regional subcenters where passengers can further transfer to other bus, metro, other transit services, or explore these local area.

Should you desire more personalized vehicular transit, taxi fares within Kowloon itself are reasonable.

Underground, the MTR line runs under Nathan Road, with regular stops. With MTR line serving part of the same corridor from East Kowloon. Two commuter rail lines intersect at the station, providing frequent service to some other stations in Kowloon closer to the shore as well. Note the service advisories above for the Kowloon station. Together with line, they cover most part of the Kowloon area, with feeder bus and green minibus available at various stations for connection into more localized area.

There are also red minibus hubs scattering around Mong Kok and Kwun Tong.

Most traffic in Kowloon is on foot. Sidewalks are often narrow and crowded, especially at night when most people go out. Many small alleys offer shortcuts; check a map or online mapping service (you may also find a delightful store or restaurant this way). In Tsim Sha Tsui, it can often be preferable to use the extensive network of tunnels that connect the Tsim Sha Tsui and East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR stations if going a considerable distance, as they are climate-controlled and traffic poses no problem.

See
Hong Kong's most iconic view is that of the neon signs along Nathan Road stretching from Mong Kok to Tsim Sha Tsui, which once made for quite a colourful spectacle at night. However, new safety regulations implemented by the government have resulted in most of these signs being taken down, and the street is today only a shadow of its former self.

Landmarks
The Kowloon Waterfront offers splendid views of the Hong Kong Island shore and skyline. This is the best place to experience the classic view of Hong Kong, and nobody on their first trip here should miss out on promenading along the waterfront. The best views are at night when the lights of global capitalism provide a powerful spectacle. If you are not proficient with night-time photography, you can pay a modest sum for a professional to take your photograph against one of the world's most iconic backdrops.

Start at the Star Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, where cruise ships berth at

If you continue your stroll along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, you will soon find yourself walking along Hong Kong's version of Hollywood's walk of fame, the

Every night at 8PM there is a colourful light show that is staged atop the key buildings on both sides of the harbour, dubbed A Symphony Of Lights. On Monday evenings, spectators can listen to the show's music and English narration live at the Avenue of Stars, on radio on FM103.4 MHz or by calling 35 665 665.

After visiting the Kowloon waterfront you can take the. It goes across Victoria Harbour to Hong Kong Island, getting an excellent view of the skyline in the process.



Do

 * Afternoon tea in the lobby at the Peninsula Hotel is an elegant tradition that enables visitors to savour a little of the grandeur of Hong Kong's colonial past. It is one of the more affordable ways to experience the services of one of Hong Kong's most extravagant hotels. Afternoon tea is served between 2 PM and 7 PM, daily. The dress-code is smart casual.
 * Take a walk in
 * Shanghai Street runs north-south parallel to Nathan Road and offers an easy to navigate urban transect. Start at the north-side of Kowloon Park and wander up to Langham Place, a modern shopping and hotel complex which is next to Mong Kok MTR station. Along the way you will experience Kowloon in its raw authenticity. This is not your regular tourist trail, but crumbling tenements and small-scale industrial and commercial outfits blur to form an urban landscape that will make you wish that you had brought your camera along.
 * Cricket:
 * Kowloon Cricket Club is at 10 Cox's Rd, Jordan but is members only. If you're a cricket player, you can apply to join as a sports member.
 * You're never too old for tai chi on the Avenue of the Stars. Free lessons in English M, W-F mornings from 8AM-9AM.
 * A section of Portland Street in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime — but be careful about taking pictures, as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.
 * A section of Portland Street in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime — but be careful about taking pictures, as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.

Buy
If your budget doesn't quite stretch to the Tiffanys, Guccis and Shanghai Tangs of Hong Kong Island, head to Kowloon for more affordable shopping.

Shopping malls

 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.

Markets

 * The colourful Flower Market and the adjoining Bird Garden (Prince Edward St West) are worth a visit even if shrubs and parrots aren't high on your shopping list.
 * In Mong Kok, Tung Choi Street (通菜街), popularly known as the Ladies' Market (女人街), is Hong Kong's biggest outdoor shopping experience. Prices here may not be the cheapest, as the area is popular with tourists, but the variety, chaos and sheer number of sellers is mind-boggling and well worth the visit. It is also opened during daytime, unlike the nearby Temple Street Night Market. As with other markets lacking fixed prices, those perceived as being tourists will be quoted a higher price—so bring your sharpest bargaining skills. Be careful as the market also sells some realistic non-authentic goods (fake Louis Vuitton bags are popular). The pedestrian zone is mostly for electronics and contains clothing stores from Hong Kong's most popular chains. The easiest way to get into the area is through Mong Kok MTR station, Exit B2 or B3.
 * In Mong Kok, Tung Choi Street (通菜街), popularly known as the Ladies' Market (女人街), is Hong Kong's biggest outdoor shopping experience. Prices here may not be the cheapest, as the area is popular with tourists, but the variety, chaos and sheer number of sellers is mind-boggling and well worth the visit. It is also opened during daytime, unlike the nearby Temple Street Night Market. As with other markets lacking fixed prices, those perceived as being tourists will be quoted a higher price—so bring your sharpest bargaining skills. Be careful as the market also sells some realistic non-authentic goods (fake Louis Vuitton bags are popular). The pedestrian zone is mostly for electronics and contains clothing stores from Hong Kong's most popular chains. The easiest way to get into the area is through Mong Kok MTR station, Exit B2 or B3.

Currency exchange
To exchange money in Tsim Sha Tsui, head to the shopping center on Nathan Road. You can find good rates at some of the currency exchange places inside (not the ones at the entrance, which are a rip-off).

Eat
Kowloon is a great place to go for cheap and authentic Chinese, Indian, Nepalese and Thai food. It makes a welcome change from following the sophisticates who dine across the harbour in Soho. However, for those who seriously want to splurge, some of the swankiest restaurants are to be found Kowloon-side.

Budget





 * The Chinese fast food chain Café de Coral has numerous locations in Kowloon. The one on the corner of Ichang Street and Ashley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui is believed by many to offer some of the best food (for its price) in Hong Kong. These restaurants tend to get crowded easily, but there is a number of alternatives available, such as Fairwood, MX by Maxims among others.
 * The Chinese fast food chain Café de Coral has numerous locations in Kowloon. The one on the corner of Ichang Street and Ashley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui is believed by many to offer some of the best food (for its price) in Hong Kong. These restaurants tend to get crowded easily, but there is a number of alternatives available, such as Fairwood, MX by Maxims among others.

Drink


Notable watering holes:



Drinking areas:



Be wary of entering the girlie bars scattered around the southern tip of Tsim Sha Tsui. Their entrances are usually decorated with photos of women in various stages of undress. Strip bars are not popular with locals for good reason. There are reports of these places being owned by rough people, even triads, and they may place unexpected exorbitant charges on your tab (such as a fee to talk to a girl). They may even escort you to an ATM if you don't have enough cash. The days of Suzie Wong have long passed. These places are very much not-recommended.

Hostess Clubs

Budget
A large number of guesthouses and hostels are located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Mong Kok and Jordan offering cheap, small but generally comfortable and safe accommodation licensed by the Hong Kong government. These are barebone places to stay so there will be no restaurants, souvenir shops or newspaper delivery. Most owners will only speak basic English. Chung King Mansions and Mirador Mansions, both on Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, and the Sincere House on 83 Argyle St in Mong Kok are famously home to a number of budget hotels and hostels. Having attracted western backpackers for decades, these guesthouses have become increasingly popular with budget travellers from mainland China. Staying at budget hotels is entirely at your own risk and you are advised to seek recommendations from other travellers and to look at visit several rooms in the same hostel/hotel and to visit different hotels/hostels before paying. It's also recommended to pay for only one night and leave in the morning if doesn't work out or, if it does, pay for additional nights as needed in the morning. Please remember to post your own recommendations here.

Expect budget hotel rooms to be undecorated and small with only a bed (or beds), night stand, telephone and television. Noise from fellow travellers may be a problem, so invest in good earplugs. Most will have "in-suite" bathrooms while others have communal bathrooms. Upon check-in, you should ask the owner how to turn on the water boiler unless you want to shower with cold water. Some guesthouses will include free wireless Internet. Virtually all rooms will come with air-conditioning.

Bookings are not needed and some Wikivoyagers have reported that bookings have not always been honoured. The best way to secure a room is simply by arriving at around 1PM, when many of last night's guests have just checked out. Ask to see the room before paying, and you should pay for only one night. If you're happy with the first night, the owner will almost always happily extend your stay. You should also ask if there's 24 hour unassisted entrance (which is recommended) or if you have to ring a bell at night. Credit cards aren't accepted, it's cash only. Remember to ask for a receipt with check-in and check-out dates clearly printed.

Prices generally range from $150–250 per night for a single room with en-suite bathrooms. If you are comfortable with a community bathroom, expect to pay about $120. If you know how long you are staying, negotiate in advance to get a lower rate: they want your business over several days, so they will be willing to drop their prices to even $90 a night for a four or five night stay. However some less honest managers tend to increase their prices dramatically around public holidays, in which case it will take either a reservation or a very hard bargaining to get back to the prices mentioned above (or you can simply try and pick a good one, but it can take several hours). Never accept the initial price, and bargain down by pointing out problems with the room (broken fan/AC, lights not working, something dirty, etc.) or spending a bit of time in the lobby considering your options. During the weekend prices are generally higher so it's easier to negotiate on weekdays.


 * is a large multi-story block at 36-44 Nathan Road containing some 40 budget hotels and hostels, plus flop-houses and places of assignation. Good central location (facing Peking Rd) near Tsim Sha Tsui MTR stations, airport bus A21 stops just outside. Enter at No. 40 through a picket of touts into the ground floor mall, a Little India of cheap cafes (see "Eat"), currency exchanges, sim-card shops and the like. The lifts are slow, poky and rickety, some patched together with plywood like a failed junior school project, and with long queues to use them. That's one reason to prefer accommodation on the lower floors where you can use the stairs instead, but the main reason is that the building is a serious fire hazard: passageways and stairs are strewn with combustibles, staff smoke next to these, there's loose electric cabling, and cafes juggling hot ghee on the ground floor.
 * Peninsula Guest House: one to avoid, as many travellers report being rooked by the boss. The same shady individual also ran "Fortunate Guest House" here, but this appears unrelated to "New Fortunate Guest House" which has good reviews.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * Peninsula Guest House: one to avoid, as many travellers report being rooked by the boss. The same shady individual also ran "Fortunate Guest House" here, but this appears unrelated to "New Fortunate Guest House" which has good reviews.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.

Mid-range




Connect
The list of free Wifi hotspots in Kowloon can be found on Wi-Fi.HK, courtesy of the Hong Kong Government. Also, the MTR provides free Wifi free connectivity of up to 15 minutes, details about particular stations can be found here.

Go next

 * Central, accessible by MTR, bus or ferry.
 * There is a direct ferry to Wan Chai from the Star Ferry Pier in Tsim Sha Tsui.
 * Lantau Island, with its glorious views of untouched nature, is just a few MTR stations away.
 * The New Territories, a part of Hong Kong arguably least popular with visitors with a lot of hidden gem destinations for you to explore.