Hong Kong/Eastern District

The Eastern district in Hong Kong Island is not as full of attractions as neighbouring Central, although Wan Chai is known for its nightlife and Causeway Bay for an unforgettable shopping experience.

Understand
Wan Chai and Causeway Bay are the main tourism destinations along the eastern shore of the north coast of Hong Kong island. Inland, Happy Valley with its world famous racecourse is a major tourism attraction.


 * Wan Chai (灣仔). Known for its sleazy nightlife, having been a favourite hangout spot for American soldiers on their R&R leaves during the Vietnam War. These days, it is much more than a couple of blocks of girlie-bars populated by drunken American sailors; after all, The World of Suzie Wong was just a work of fiction set in Wan Chai during a bygone age. Between Causeway Bay and Admiralty, Wanchai has an inner-city feel that makes it an interesting but safe area to walk around at any time. Wan Chai has traditional street markets that, unlike many other neighbourhoods, are still outdoors. In the so-called wet-markets, butchers hang animal carcasses on large hooks that overshadow pavements and fishmongers have stalls with live fish that do their best to escape. Between Johnston Road and Queen's Road East are numerous alleys that are worth exploring if you are looking for traditional family-run shops selling anything from tropical fish to cheap clothing.
 * Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣). A shopping district that is home to large department stores, such as Sogo. Causeway Bay is crowded most of the time but here you can eat and shop until very late. Some major supermarkets and eateries stay open 24 hours. Times Square in Causeway Bay is a major focal point, especially at the 'calendar' New Year when you will be wise to stay away if you hate crowds. The area is also popular among Hong Kong's youth and is a good place to check out the latest fashion trends.
 * Happy Valley (跑馬地). Nestled behind the Happy Valley Racecourse, away from the MTR line, this district has a more laid-back feel than nearby Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. Happy Valley was not always the happiest place to be. When the first British troops were stationed in Happy Valley the death rate from malaria was so high that, with typical British sarcasm, the place was dubbed Happy Valley. It is a popular residential area, especially among expats. There is a tram line circling the racecourse that serves the district. This area is also home to the beautiful and historic Hong Kong Cemetery.
 * The area further east, along the north shore is the Eastern District (東區). From west to east, it constitutes the urban areas of Tin Hau (天后), North Point (北角), Quarry Bay (鰂魚涌), Sai Wan Ho (西灣河), Shau Kei Wan (筲箕灣), Siu Sai Wan (小西灣) and Chai Wan (柴灣). If you are only in Hong Kong for a short time then you can safely ignore this corner of the island unless you intend to go to the Museum of Coastal Defence.

Get in
This area is a light walk to Central from Hong Kong's main transport hubs (except during the summer heat).

By metro
The Island Line of the Mass Transit Railway runs along the north coast of Hong Kong Island, stretching from Kennedy Town in the west and traveling eastward through Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay, and beyond.

If you are arriving from Kowloon, the Tsuen Wan Line passes by Admiralty station from which you can transit to the Island Line very easily. You can also cross the harbour by taking the Tseung Kwan O Line or the newly extended East Rail Line.

By tram
The tram runs from Kennedy Town to Sai Wan Ho. The tram line trundles through Eastern as well and is a great way to see this part of town without too much effort or expense. Make sure you take a tram that does not deviate off course from your destination. Sundays it is very uncomfortable to use simply from the sheer volume of fellow travellers. The tram does not have air conditioning, only fans and open windows.

By bus
Many buses run from Central eastwards to Wan Chai and beyond, as well as some cross-harbour buses connecting this area to Kowloon. If you learn to master the bus system, then journeys will be more comfortable since you will avoid running around metro stations and get a seat in a clean air conditioned environment.

By boat
The Star Ferry arrives at Wan Chai Pier from Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. North Point also has a pier with frequent services to Hung Hom, Kwun Tong, and Kowloon City.

By taxi
Taxis are cheap enough if you want to get around in comfort. Hong Kong Station to Causeway Bay is around $30 depending on traffic.

Museums and exhibitions




Buy
The main department stores are in Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣). The biggest of these is Sogo.



Eat
Eating out in Wan Chai or Causeway Bay is a great idea, but expect to meet crowds of people doing the same. Both areas offer a bewildering range of places to eat to suit all budgets and interests. Generally, Causeway Bay is a bit more expensive than Wan Chai and attracts plenty of young trendies who may be seen eating into the small hours. Look out for specialist dessert cafes and remember to look-up to see what is on offer on higher floors where you can find cafes with balconies that enable you to get a more relaxed view of the crowded streets below. Wan Chai also has some great places to eat and it is generally a little easier to find a table than in Causeway Bay.

You will find good places to eat in all parts of Wan Chai and part of the fun is looking around. A street not to miss is Star Street which is close to Pacific Place Three, which can be accessed via a subway from Pacific Place. If you arrive in Wan Chai via the MTR station you will land in the middle of the bar and drinking area where so many restaurants are geared to drinkers and tourists. Alternatively, head towards the Causeway Bay side of Wan Chai for a more local dinning experience.

Lei King Wan or SOHO East is an interesting place to go to wine and dine, often ignored by tourists. From Sai Wan Ho MTR Station, follow signs to Sai Wan Ho Ferry Pier. It is about a 15-minute walk. There are a lot of restaurants and pubs where you can sit at the sidewalk while enjoying your dinner. Shau Kei Wan Main Street East is where the tram terminal located. Many small restaurants, mostly serving local food, can be found along this street in Shau Kei Wan.

The area around North Point is home to (德成號), Hong Kong's most famous purveyor of egg rolls (蛋卷). They make a limited quantity every day, so be sure to join the queue at least 2 hours before opening time Tu-F at 9:30AM, or you will miss out. Due to high demand, each customer is limited to buying 1.6 kg per day.

Budget
If you are travelling on a tight budget, then Wan Chai offers a great choice of places, with the added bonus that the neighbourhood has plenty of character and personality.



Bars
Wan Chai is home to one of the territory's major nightspots with a moderately seedy reputation. Leave Wan Chai MTR station at exit C, and you will find a wide choice of bars, clubs and places to eat. Many women hanging around these places are sex workers, and these are occasional cases of visitors getting robbed after having their drinks spiked. Bring a friend and don't let touts steer you into their clubs.



Happy Valley has a far snootier feel about it compared to nearby Wan Chai. If you are looking for a slower pace and want a quiet drink, Happy Valley has a few bars and coffee shops that might appeal if you are based in this area.



Causeway Bay is a great place for a night out, but there is no obvious bar area. Although this is the place to be if you are young and glamorous on a Saturday night, you maybe pushed to find a bar that sells a decent beer. Alternatively, why not go native, forget the alcohol and indulge in the hip cafe scene?



There are quite a few bars and restaurants on Tong Chong Street, Taikoo Place in Quarry Bay.



Go next

 * Southern side of Hong Kong Island