Hilversum

Hilversum is a medium-sized city in the Gooi area of North Holland in the Netherlands. Once called the Garden of Amsterdam, most travellers still come over to cycle and hike through the surrounding forests and heathland. The city is also known for its modern architecture, with Dudok's Hilversum Town Hall being the most significant design. Hilversum is known as "media city", being the home of the radio and television broadcasting industry of the Netherlands.

Understand
Unlike most of the Netherlands, Hilversum is in a hilly area on sand soil. The town is between the major cities of Amsterdam and Utrecht, and most travellers visit it as a relaxing day off from the urban mayhem. The forests, lakes and heathland surrounding the town can best be explored by bicycle or on foot. Most of these lands are property of the Goois Natuurreservaat Foundation (GNR), a non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting the nature reserves. Another goal is to connect nature reserves that have been separated by motorways and other human-made structures. For this end, the wildlife crossing Zanderij Crailo was completed in 2006, and it is the largest wildlife crossing in the world. It connects the Spanderswoud and the Bussumerheide, and is part of a larger programme to connect nature reserves from the Utrechtse Heuvelrug to Naarden.

The city is also green and breezy with trees pretty much everywhere. A total of 660 different types of trees to be exact, the largest variety of species in the Netherlands. Typical for the city is the way forests and city building naturally blend into each other. Hilversum is called a villadorp (villa village) because of its many villas with large surrounding gardens. The botanical garden Pinetum Blijdenstein is the most remarkable one with an enormous collection of rare and endangered trees and plants, some of which are exotic. It is home to one of the most complete collections of conifers in the world. Hilversum is nationally known as the media city, and goes by its nickname Hillywood. It is home to the country's broadcasting industry and has the two largest television studios in Europe within its borders. Every year, the Dutch points given in the Eurovision Song Contest are announced from Hilversum. Many Dutch celebrities live in the area, and their daily lives are often a topic of national interest.

History
Hilversum is one of the firstly inhabited areas of the Netherlands, as shown by earthenware from the early to mid-Bronze Age (1800-1200 BCE). This prehistoric civilisation is called Hilversum culture and is characterised by the use of barrow cemeteries. The urns show similarities with the Wessex culture of Southern Britain, where the population might have migrated from. This people lived in the area from Hilversum to northern Belgium and spoke an Indo-European language of unknown origin, not related to the Germanic language spoken today. In the early Middle Ages, Hilversum was an agricultural area. Around 900, the first bricks were laid, but no official mention of Hilversum was made until 1305. Then called Hilfersheem, ethymologists explain the name of Hilversum to derive from Hilvertshem, which means 'houses between the hills'. First the town was a part of Naarden, which is also worth a visit for its medieval remains, but it received an official independent status in 1424. Daily life was characterised by farming, raising sheep and wool manufacturing.

Economic growth came in the 17th century when Holland became one of the richest trading nations in Europe. Canals were built to indirectly link Hilversum with Amsterdam, though fires in 1725 and 1766 destroyed most of the town. A railway link to Amsterdam in 1874 aided a substantial textile and tapestry industry. Rich traders from Amsterdam built themselves large villas in the wooded surroundings of Hilversum, that still characterise the town. Many of these wealthy families were Catholics, giving Hilversum a relatively Catholic demographic (compared to the Protestant surroundings). As Hilversum never got city rights, locals still refer to the town centre as het dorp ("the village"). In the early 1900s, modern architects W.M. Dudok and J. Duiker from the New Objectivity School placed many remarkable buildings here (and even entire neighbourhoods). Dudok's masterpiece, the Hilversum Town Hall from 1931, features in many architecture textbooks. The transition to a media economy started in 1920, when the Nederlandse Seintoestellen Fabriek (NSF) established a radio factory. Many radio broadcasting organisations settled in the large villas in the leafy areas of the town. The textile industry had by then declined and the last factory closed in the 1960s. Television gave a renewed boost to the local economy and the number of inhabitants grew to 103,000 in 1964. Hilversum became the media capital of the Netherlands, and Dutch television celebrities moved in the leafy neighbourhoods surrounding the town centre. Hilvertshof was opened in 1973 as the first shopping centre of the Netherlands.

In the next decades, there was a decline in the number of inhabitants to an all-time low of 80,000 in 1999. The renovation of the Town Hall, which took place during 1989-1996, almost plunged the municipality of Hilversum into bankruptcy. It took five years to restore the building to its original state, and it was much more costly than originally anticipated. There is a permanent exposition about this renovation in the Dudok Dependance at the Hilversum Town Hall. The decline was further caused by suburbanisation, the economic downturn, smaller households, and the inability to expand as the town is surrounded by protected nature areas. As of the 2000s, there has been a renewed interest in Hilversum. With financial issues a matter of history, many new infrastructure projects and parks have been built. Its main train station has expanded from 3 to 5 tracks and regained Intercity status. Urbanisation has made Hilversum an attractive target for yuppies, who appreciate the town's new hip bars and boutiques, and its image as a green and affluent media town. Nowadays, Hilversum scores highly on national "best town to live in" polls.



By train
Because of the central location of its train station, Hilversum can best be reached by the NS railway service. Trains run roughly every 15 minutes between 05:00 and 01:00 to and from Amsterdam, Schiphol Airport, Utrecht, Amersfoort and Almere. The smaller train stations Hilversum Media Park and Hilversum Sportpark are within walking distance of the main train station.

Every day, six international trains to and from Berlin and Hanover stop in Hilversum. You can reserve seats at NS International. This is not required, but can be advised as prices are lower and rush hours can be crowded.

By car
Hilversum can be reached by motorways A1, A2 and A27. From the northwest and east (Amsterdam and Amersfoort), take A1 exit 9 at Laren, drive south on N525 and follow the signs. From the west (Schiphol Airport and Leiden), get on motorway A2 and take exit 4 at Vinkeveen. From there, drive east on N201. From the north and south (Almere and Utrecht), take motorway A27 and exit 33.

The provincial roads can be used to get to Hilversum as well. By driving on these smaller roads, you see more of the forests and rural areas around the town. N524 is a ride through the Spanderswoud from Bussum in the north. Two other forest rides are N525 from Laren in the northeast and N415 from Baarn in the east. From the south, the rural road N417 makes its way through farm fields and villages. N201 from Vinkeveen in the west goes through flat farmlands as well.

By plane


The closest international airport is Schiphol Airport. From 06:00 till 00:00, a train leaves for Hilversum every 15 minutes from platform 3. The journey takes about 30 minutes with the direct Intercity train. The Sprinter train takes about 45 minutes and a transfer at the Weesp train station is required. You can also come to Hilversum from airports in Eindhoven and Rotterdam, but expect train journeys to be 1.5 to 2 hours.

On foot
As nearly all stores, restaurants and bars are in the centre, walking is a good way to get around Hilversum. From the main train station, it's a short walk through the Leeuwenstraat to the centre and most of the attractions. The streets in the centre are pretty much free of cars and bicycles, except for the Groest on which bicycles and a limited number of cars are allowed.

By bike
If you want to see more of the city than just the inner city core, cycling is the way to go. Hilversum is very safe to explore by bike, as all arterial roads have designated bike lanes, which can be recognised by their reddish-purple appearance. Bikers should follow the red and white signs for directions. Bicycles can be rented for €3.15 per day at all three train stations.



By bus
Connexxion offers bus connections from Hilversum's main train station to the surroundings. You can plan your trip door-to-door using 9292.nl, though results vary. Especially in the evening, buses run infrequently and, for close destinations, walking is often faster than waiting for the bus to arrive. Bus transportation can best be used if you want to visit sights in the outskirts or in the surrounding villages. Fares are €3 for city trips, €5 for regional trips. Having an OV-chipkaart saves money.

By car


The road network of Hilversum used to be a nightmare, and still is difficult to navigate through with its one-way roads, traffic congestion and limited parking space. Roads and directions often change, which make old maps unreliable. The roads operate in a double ring system. The outer ring around the city has two-way traffic, while the inner ring around the centre only has one-way traffic. If you miss an exit, you will have to drive around the whole inner ring again for a second try.

Free parking options are available between the inner and the outer ring, but it's a 10- to 15-minute walk to the centre. The closest free parking area can be found at the Wandelpad between the main train station and train station Hilversum Sportpark. Be careful not to leave any valuables behind in this area. Parking at the parking lots is more convenient. Signs along the inner ring display which of the following parking lots have space available:



There is one car rental agency in Hilversum:



By taxi
Like elsewhere in the country, taxis in Hilversum carry a hefty price tag. The first 2 km will be around €7.50 with each additional kilometre €2.20. A 10-minute ride from the centre to the outskirts is around €14. Longer distances are more dramatic, a 35-minute ride to or from Schiphol Airport costs around €85. Taxis are generally available at the main train station and at night around the Groest. If you are elsewhere in the town, you will need to call the taxi company to pick you up. There are two taxi companies operating in Hilversum, which generally only accept cash:



See
There are many modern architectural masterpieces in Hilversum, but finding these buildings scattered across the town can be a frustrating experience. The modern architect W.M. Dudok shaped most of 20th-century Hilversum and approximately 75 buildings still bear his stamp. Dudok's distinctive mix of styles is heavily influenced by the New Objectivity style, a radical movement in urban architecture in the Netherlands, Germany and France in the period 1915-1960. The best way to explore Dudok's designs is by walking or biking the W.M. Dudok Architectural Route, as explained in the Do-section. Start your journey in the world of modern architecture with his masterpiece, the Hilversum Town Hall.







Churches






Outdoors
Once called the Garden of Amsterdam, most tourists come to Hilversum for a relaxing day off from the hectic city. The best way to spend your time is by hiking or biking in the forests and heathlands surrounding the city.

Forests and heathlands

 * Anna's Hoeve is a hilly area between Hilversum and Baarn offering forests, ponds, heathland and grassy areas. It is being rebuilt, but is still accessible for the public. The lakes and hills are created by large masses of unemployed people in the Great Depression, as the municipality of Hilversum tried to combat the high levels of unemployment at that time. If you're up for it, go on to Baarn or the Soestdijk Palace.
 * Bussumerheide, Westerheide and Zuiderheide are heathlands in the north of Hilversum. The remains of a prehistoric civilization called Hilversum Culture come from this area. Clearly visible in the landscape are the 3000- to 4000-year-old burial mounds. The Aardjesberg, formed in the penultimate ice age, can be recognised by a group of trees. In the last ice age, the Netherlands probably was an arctic tundra. Remains of a levallois arrow have been found here, which were probably used by Neanderthals for mammoth hunting. Consider continuing your way to Laren.
 * Corversbos, the closest forest on the west side of town. It's a bit bland and plenty of high school pupils use it as a shortcut to school. It was created after World War II with conifer trees and robinia flowers, which were widely available back then. Interesting is a beekeeper place from the 19th century, where you can see 40 to 60 beehives and the beekeepers' tools. You might come across buzzards, green woodpeckers, goshawks and tawny owls. Easy to combine with Gooilust or the Pinetum Blijdensteijn.
 * Hilversums Wasmeer is a forested lake with interesting fauna. During warm days, insects from the odanata order can be seen, like dragon flies and damselflies. There are plenty of birds, like hobbies (falcons), as well as coots, tufted ducks, pochards, shelducks, and, if lucky, eared grebes and little grebes. From the south east side, you can have a great view on the lake.




 * Hoorneboegse Heide is a heath that makes up for most of the south. Its slightly sloping landscape was formed in the penultimate ice age 150,000 years ago. The estate (and conference centre) Hoorneboeg is located on a hill and gives great vistas over the heath. Sundays is a great day to head through the Maartensdijkse Bos to Lage Vuursche for traditional Dutch pancakes. Further options are the artificial lakes and dykes in Loosdrecht and Loenen.
 * Laarder Wasmeer (Laarder Waschmeer) is a protected area and can only be partly accessed (in a guided tour, see the Do section). It has a combination of lakes, groups of trees and limited sand storms. There are plans to open larger parts of the area to the public in the future.
 * Spanderswoud is an interesting forest on the north side of town. Authorities have not interfered in natural processes of the forest since the 1980s, which make it more authentic. Several summer residences are at the west side of it, while Trompenberg, one of the wealthiest and leafy neighbourhoods of the country, is at the south side. You can continue to the Bussumerheide, Westerheide and Zuiderheide by taking the Wildlife Crossing Zanderij Crailo, the largest wildlife crossing in the world.

If you want to explore these areas, first head over to the tourist office for some quality maps. It can be found at the Kerkbrink, which also happens to be the beginning point for most hiking and biking routes.

Hiking
If you want to go hiking, buy a map of a particular hike you are interested in for around €1.50 at the tourist office. You can always ask the staff for help, or let them choose a particular hike for you. There are plenty of hiking trails available through Hilversum or its surroundings:


 * W.M. Dudok Architectural Route &mdash; 10 km; 3 hours. The best way to explore Dudok's highlights is by taking this route. It is just a couple of hours and shows some important buildings of the famous architect. Instead of re-doing everything here, be sure to take a look at the brochure, print it and bring it with you during the route. White signs showing 'Dudok' show the way, but keep in mind that the route of the signs is slightly different from the route of the brochure. The route starts at Hilversum Town Hall. If open, visit the Dudok Dependence for an overview of Dudok's life and work. Then start the route, which shows the following buildings in this order: Multatuli School, Snellius School, Rembrandt School, Fabritius School, Bosdrift, Geranium School and Bathhouse. Other buildings are listed as optional in the brochure. They are just as interesting, but are located slightly further away. They are best visited separately by bike: Northern Cemetery, Laapersveld Pumping Station, Wildschut Sports Pavilion, Grandstand and Zuiderhof Cemetery.
 * Corversbos Route &mdash; 5 km; 1 hour. Probably the easiest route, and even accessible for wheel chairs. Signs show the way, you will see a 19th-century place with beehives.
 * Goois Natuurreservaat Hiking Trail &mdash; 25 km; 6 hours. This trail is basically a large circle around the entire town. It was designed in 1938 as going through forests and heath only, but as Hilversum expanded, it also goes through a limited amount of urban areas. More information in the guidebook Voetstappenpad, available for €1.60 at the tourist office.
 * Laarder Wasmeer Guided Tour &mdash; 5 km; 2 hours. Probably the only way to access the protected area of Laarder Wasmeer. It's organised every first Sunday of the month at 10:00. It starts at the Meerweg and will take you to lakes, limited sandstorms and an old bird hut for birdwatching.
 * Peerlkamp Route &mdash; 7 km; 2 hours. This trail is steeper and thus slightly more challenging. It's a hilly route through Hilversum itself and combines parks, gardens and the Corversbos. If you want, you can walk back to the centre through the Old Harbour Park.

Biking
For cycling, the easiest map is the Toeristische Fietsroutekaart Gooi en Vechtstreek eo (Touristic Biking Route Map Gooi and Vecht Region and Surroundings) for €4. It covers 4 cycling routes through Hilversum and the Gooi area. Unfortunately, the map misses out on the popular towns Baarn and Lage Vuursche, as they are not a part of North-Holland. Another map is the Utrechtse Heuvelrug en Vechtse Plassen (Utrecht Hill Ridge and Vecht en Plassen) map for €8, which features a wider area, but does not include any pre-made routes, so you have to make your own route (most locals do this, it can easily be done with a little research). Of course you can get both maps if you want to be well-prepared. Both are in Dutch and in English, and the routes are clearly marked. Just as with hiking, you can also ask the staff for advice, as they have dozens of different maps for sale. Most biking routes do not just feature Hilversum, but also include many other villages in the Gooi en Vechtstreek:




 * Lage Vuursche Royal Cycle Route. Royal palaces and pancakes in the woods. Distance: 20 km. Also suitable for children.
 * Gooi Richness Route (Gooise Rijkdomroute) &mdash; 33 km; 3 hours. Start cycling at the Kerkbrink in the centre of Hilversum. You will cycle through heathland to Blaricum and Laren, two of the wealthiest villages of the Netherlands with plenty of villas, wealthy society, expensive cars, expensive brands and the like. Then cycle over the wildlife crossing Zanderij Crailo to Spanderswoud, and go on to 's-Graveland with plenty of expensive summer residences from the Dutch Golden Age (such as Gooilust with an impressive garden). Then go back to Hilversum via the Corversbos forest. The route is featured in the Toeristische Fietsroutekaart Gooi en Vechtstreek eo.
 * Lakes Route (Plassenroute) &mdash; 41 km; 4 hours. This route shows artificial lakes, most of them created through the extraction of peat for fuel. From Hilversum, cycle through the Corversbos and Kortenhoef on to Vreeland, passing the Loosdrecht Lakes (Loosdrechtse plassen). Cycle north along the Vecht to Nigtevecht and on to the historic centre of Weesp. The route further extends south through the Ankeveen Lakes (Ankeveense plassen), and from there head back to Hilversum. The route is featured in the Toeristische Fietsroutekaart Gooi en Vechtstreek eo, though this one is slightly modified.
 * Royal Route (Koninklijke route) &mdash; 25 km; 3 hours. The 'royal' route goes through forestland and shows the Soestdijk Palace, the former residence of Queen Juliana. The route also passes Queen Beatrix' castle Drakensteyn, but unfortunately it cannot be seen as it is not open to the public. Start in Hilversum and cycle east, passing the Laarder Wasmeer and Anna's Hoeve, to the wealthy town Baarn. Then cycle south to the Soestdijk Palace, and from there, west to Lage Vuursche through the castle Drakensteyn area. Eat a pancake in one of the quality restaurants, and go west, pass the A27 motorway and make your way back to Hilversum through the Hoorneboegse Heide. This is a custom route not featured in any guide, but you can plan it yourself with the Utrechtse Heuvelrug en Vechtse Plassen map.
 * Villages Route (Dorpenroute) &mdash; 30 km; 3 hours. This route shows forests, heathland and the traditional villages Laren and Lage Vuursche. It starts in Hilversum and goes through Corversbos, Spanderswoud, wildlife crossing Zanderij Crailoo and the Westerheide to Laren. Laren is one of the wealthiest villages of the Netherlands, with large villas and high society passing by. From there, cycle on through Zuiderheide to Lage Vuursche, which is a popular village among cyclists for its quality pancake restaurants. Then head your way to Hilversum through the Hoorneboegse Heide, passing over the A27 motorway. This is a custom route not featured in any guide, but you can plan it yourself with the Utrechtse Heuvelrug en Vechtse Plassen map.

When cycling in the outlying forests and heathlands, follow the mushroom-shaped signs for directions. In 1919, the first mushroom-shaped sign was placed in the forest between Hilversum and Baarn, but now they are placed in nature areas all over the country. Also bring some food and drinks with you, especially when it's warm, as there are no restaurants or coffee houses in protected nature areas.

Buy


Shopping in Hilversum has a heavy emphasis on clothing and accessories. Due to the upscale demographic, most clothing stores are relatively pricey with luxurious brands. Most stores have similar hours (M 13:00-18:00, Tu W F 10:00-18:00, Th 10:00-21:00, Sa 10:00-17:00, Su 12:00-17:00), but some are closed on Mondays.

The easiest entry point is Hilvertshof. It was opened in 1973 as the first shopping centre of the Netherlands. It is now a modern shopping centre with world-wide fashion stores such as H&M, Mango, Primark and Zara. Adjacent to Hilvertshof is the Kerkstraat with shops similar to those found elsewhere in the country. You can stroll to the Gooische Brink and the 's-Gravelandseweg for upscale boutiques, or to the Leeuwenstraat for vintage clothing and used products stores.

Dine and drinks
Because of its affluent population and status of "media city", Hilversum is known for its "see and be seen" bar/restaurants. These establishments have a luxurious indoor appearance and it's possible to both eat and drink. Outdoor seating is available for warm summer nights. Of course, prices are higher than the other establishments in town.



Drink
Most bars and nightclubs in Hilversum are centred around the Groest. There is something for everyone's taste, from youth bars to bars for older ages, and from dive bars to upscale cosmopolitan places. On weekdays and Sundays, bars are open till 01:00, while some nightclubs will be opened till 03:00. On Fridays and Saturdays, bars open till 03:00 and nightclubs till 05:00.

Always bring your passport or official identity papers, as many bars and nightclubs require you to show it upon entry. Also keep in mind that smoking is only allowed in designated smoking areas, and that bar employees won't serve drinks in these areas. Be aware on the streets when the bars close as people are drunk and some might be looking for trouble. Walking around with an alcoholic beverage on the Groest can get you a fine of €60.

Nightclubs
The best club in town is the Rex, mentioned in the Eat section as it is also a bar and restaurant.



Stay safe
There is not much to worry about in Hilversum. The town sometimes makes headlines with cases of vandalism. Be more cautious when bars and nightclubs close, particularly on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Large amounts of intoxicated people gather on the streets, which can lead to fights.

Stay healthy
Staying healthy is probably the least you have to worry about. Tap water in the Netherlands is among the cleanest and safest in the world, and tap water in Hilversum tastes even better than elsewhere in the country. Research from consumer authorities have shown that customers get tricked when ordering mineral water in bars or restaurants. One in three of them actually serve tap water instead of mineral water!

If you are hiking or biking in the forests surrounding the city, be careful of ticks and tick-carrying diseases. It is advisable to wear long sleeves and long trousers. If you want to be completely safe, tuck your trousers inside your socks. If you discover a red ring on your body in the weeks after, be sure to visit a doctor to check for Lyme disease, which can be lethal without proper medical care.

Connect
The country calling code for the Netherlands is 31, the area code for Hilversum is 035. If you want to surf the net, the Groest and Hilvertshof have open Wi-Fi access points that can be used by anyone. Doppio Espresso and Mout have free Wi-Fi available for customers.



Go next
Listed by distance, the surrounding area has plenty of interesting towns and villages.


 * Baarn is about 15 minutes east on N415 or by train. A forested area with some castles open to the public, such as Kasteel Groeneveld.
 * Laren is about 15 minutes north on N525 or bus 108. You can visit the Singer Museum or have a bite at the Brink.
 * 's-Graveland is about 15 minutes west on N201 or bus 105.
 * Amersfoort is about 20 minutes east on A1 or by train.
 * Soest is about 20 minutes east on N415 or by train.
 * Naarden is about 20 minutes north on N524 or train. Its 17th-century fortifications are among the best preserved in Europe.
 * Weesp is about 25 minutes northwest on N236 or by train.
 * Muiden is about 30 minutes north on A1 or by train and bus. It has a magnificent 13th-century castle and other medieval structures.