Harrogate

Harrogate is an attractive Regency / Victorian spa town in North Yorkshire, with fine public gardens, and on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. Its spa hotels have morphed into conference and "wellness" centres, and it's well stocked with good eating places, including the famous Betty's Tea Rooms. In 2024 the population was 164,100.

Understand
In Old Norse hǫrgr gata indicates a street to a heap of stones. It was a cluster of separate villages until its spa waters became fashionable in the 17th century, and accommodation and amusements were built for its visitors. (Those amusements were essential, as the waters are cold and pungent.) Harrogate's heyday was 19th century Regency / Victorian, so it was already past its best when Agatha Christie fled here in 1926. Meanwhile it was becoming industrial, and a commuter town for nearby Leeds. However the local council realised the value of protecting Harrogate's old centre, so this retains its period charm with relatively few modern intrusions.

By plane
From beyond western Europe, use Manchester Airport. It has global connections, competitive fares, and an hourly train from Leeds.

Flying into any of the London airports involves a one-hour journey into London Kings Cross, then a 3-hour train ride north.

By train
stands on a loop of line from Leeds (35 minutes) to York (40 minutes via Knaresborough). Direct trains from London Kings Cross run every two hours, taking 3 hours via Stevenage, Grantham, Doncaster, Wakefield and Leeds.

From other destinations change at Leeds or York for the loop train, which runs every 30 min. At Leeds this is shown as going to Poppleton, a small halt just outside York, to avoid travellers for York going the long way round. Similarly at York, it's shown as going to Burley Park in the Headingley / University quarter of Leeds.

Harrogate station is central in town and has a staffed ticket office and machines. There are toilets, a waiting room, a cafe and ATMs. There is step-free access to all platforms. Plusbus tickets are available for this station.

By road
From the north, follow the A1 then A59 west then bypass Knaresborough via A658 and A661. From the south, the signed route is the same, but consider leaving A1 sooner at Junction 45 into Wetherby and going via A661. From the south end of Leeds use the new A63 to join M1 which merges into A1 then heads towards Wetherby; but from northern or central Leeds just go straight up the A61.

By bus
Long-distance bus lines no longer run to Harrogate, change at Leeds.

From Leeds take Harrogate Bus 36 (the plum-red one), which runs every 15 minutes, taking 70 min via the A61 past Harewood House. Alternate buses continue to Ripon. Bus 7 from Leeds takes twice as long, via Bramham, Boston Spa, Wetherby and Spofforth.

From Bradford Bus A2 runs hourly via the airport, taking 75 min.

From Knaresborough Bus 1 runs every 30 min, taking 30 min via Starbeck.

From Pateley Bridge Bus 24 runs every two hours, taking 55 min.

No direct bus runs from York, change at Leeds. Bus 23 / 24 from York to Knaresborough rambles through more Yorkshire villages than you'd think possible.

Harrogate bus station is 100 yards north of the railway station. It's just a long draughty bus shelter with no facilities.

Get around
Walking is best for town centre, and cycling will quickly get you to outlying attractions. Avoid driving in town, as it can be very congested.

Harrogate Buses circulate around town. Bus 1 plies the main road to Knaresborough.

The trains from Leeds also stop at Pannal and Hornbeam Park in the south of town, and at Starbeck on their way to Knaresborough.

The most reliable taxi operator is Mainline (+44 44 1423 555555).

See

 * Town centre: Simply strolling the central streets and arcades is a joy.
 * are the town's main park, with floral displays, open spaces and a small cafe. Many of the historic town springs emerge in this area, though they're nowadays mostly capped off or bottled. Daytime it's a genteel area to stroll, and the obvious walking route to Harlow Carr Gardens. Open 24 hours but after dark it's poorly lit and can attract sleazy denizens.
 * on Duchy Rd is an elegant imposing Anglican church, completed in 1914.
 * St Peter's, built in 1870, is on Cambridge Rd 100 yards northwest of the station.
 * are the town's main park, with floral displays, open spaces and a small cafe. Many of the historic town springs emerge in this area, though they're nowadays mostly capped off or bottled. Daytime it's a genteel area to stroll, and the obvious walking route to Harlow Carr Gardens. Open 24 hours but after dark it's poorly lit and can attract sleazy denizens.
 * on Duchy Rd is an elegant imposing Anglican church, completed in 1914.
 * St Peter's, built in 1870, is on Cambridge Rd 100 yards northwest of the station.

Further out

 * is a charming market town 4 miles east, perched on the gorge of the River Nidd.
 * Almscliff Crag is another outcrop, off A658 to Bradford and the airport, and Plumpton Rocks are off A661 to Wetherby and the A1.
 * Almscliff Crag is another outcrop, off A658 to Bradford and the airport, and Plumpton Rocks are off A661 to Wetherby and the A1.
 * Almscliff Crag is another outcrop, off A658 to Bradford and the airport, and Plumpton Rocks are off A661 to Wetherby and the A1.
 * Almscliff Crag is another outcrop, off A658 to Bradford and the airport, and Plumpton Rocks are off A661 to Wetherby and the A1.

Do

 * Royal Hall is an Edwardian theatre of 1903 on Ripon Road opposite Harrogate Inn, adjoining a modern convention centre.
 * Harrogate Theatre is at 6 Oxford St, Box Office +44 1423 502116.
 * Cinema: Everyman is on Station Parade and Odeon on East Parade, both just south of the station.
 * Football: Harrogate Town AFC play soccer in League Two, the fourth tier. They play at CNG Stadium on Wetherby Road (capacity 3800) a mile southeast of town centre along A661.
 * Rugby Union: Harrogate RUFC play 15-a-side down in the amateur leagues.
 * Cricket: Yorkshire Women play at St George's Road south side of town. The men play at Headingley in Leeds.
 * Golf: courses near town are Harrogate GC, Rudding Park at the hotel, Pannal GC and Oakdale GC.
 * Harrogate Flower Show have their spring show at the Great Yorkshire Showground, with the next on 25-28 April 2024. Their autumn show is in September at Newby Hall, see Ripon.
 * International Festival is throughout June and July, with mostly classical music.
 * Great Yorkshire Show is an agricultural show in July, with the next on 9-12 July 2024. The showground is two miles east of town centre on A661 towards Wetherby. A free bus shuttles between the bus station and showground. This is in addition to regular buses 770 and 771 from Leeds and Wetherby towards Harrogate, which stop outside the showground. Motorists must follow signs and ignore Satnav, as access roads have temporary one-way systems.
 * Crime Writing Festival is next held on 18-21 July 2024 at the Old Swan Hotel.
 * Literature Festival is in October.
 * Literature Festival is in October.

Buy

 * Waitrose is at 92 Station Parade, 200 yards south of the station, open M-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 10AM-4PM.
 * Waitrose is at 92 Station Parade, 200 yards south of the station, open M-Sa 8AM-8PM, Su 10AM-4PM.

Eat

 * Shalimar maybe has the edge in the strip of Indian restaurants along Cheltenham Parade. It's at No 9 by the theatre, open Tu-Su 5-10PM.
 * Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, a block north of Hotel du Vin, open daily noon-10:30PM.
 * Shalimar maybe has the edge in the strip of Indian restaurants along Cheltenham Parade. It's at No 9 by the theatre, open Tu-Su 5-10PM.
 * Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, a block north of Hotel du Vin, open daily noon-10:30PM.
 * Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, a block north of Hotel du Vin, open daily noon-10:30PM.
 * Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, a block north of Hotel du Vin, open daily noon-10:30PM.
 * Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant at 1 John St, a block north of Hotel du Vin, open daily noon-10:30PM.

Drink

 * Cheltenham Parade has pubs alternating with curry houses. Harrogate Tap is within the railway station, and near the theatre are North Bar, Trotters, The Inn, Little Ale House, Christie's and Best Bar.
 * Parliament Street (A61 northbound) has The Winter Gardens (JD Wetherspoon), Mojo, Roland's, All Bar One, Foundry Project, Major Tom's Social and Harrogate Arms.
 * The Fat Badger is within the White Hart on Cold Bath Rd, open daily noon to 9:30PM.
 * Harrogate Spring Water is a very drinkable commercial brand of local spring water, low in minerals, and not to be mistaken for the concussion inflicted by high-mineral Harrogate spa water.
 * Breweries hereabouts are Harrogate Brewing, Daleside and Rooster's.
 * Distillery: Sing Gin is based in the village of Kettlesing 7 miles west. No tours.

Sleep
As a spa town, many Harrogate hotels date back 200 years, and you can aim to stay somewhere with real character. There are many modern chains within a mile or two, while B&Bs are in the leafy suburbs further out.

Harrogate does a lot of corporate and event accommodation and can become booked out, especially for the Great Yorkshire Show in July. Big events in York can have the same effect. If you can't get in, consider staying in central Leeds and day-tripping by train.


 * Travelodge is on The Ginnel 100 yards east of Old Swan.
 * Premier Inn Town Centre is at 9 Springfield Ave next to the Majestic.
 * Travelodge is at 26 Tower St 100 yards south of Hotel du Vin.
 * Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.
 * Premier Inn Town Centre is at 9 Springfield Ave next to the Majestic.
 * Travelodge is at 26 Tower St 100 yards south of Hotel du Vin.
 * Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.
 * Travelodge is at 26 Tower St 100 yards south of Hotel du Vin.
 * Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.
 * Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.
 * Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.
 * Premier Inn Harrogate South is at Hornbeam Park Ave, near the GYS showground.

Connect


As of April 2024, Harrogate and its approach roads have 4G from Vodafone, and 5G from EE, O2 and Three.

Stay safe
Harrogate is mostly a very safe town. Even at night, drunken anti-social behaviour isn't common. Stay away from Valley Gardens at night, where the low lighting occasionally attracts dubious characters.

Go next

 * Knaresborough four miles east has a ruined 12th-century castle and a witch's lair by the picturesque River Nidd.
 * Near Ripon is must-see Fountains Abbey.
 * The Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors are scenic national parks easily reached by car.
 * Veterinary practice in Thirsk inspired the tales of James Heriot, and his house there is now a museum. Learn more about his profession at Yorkshire Farming Museum outside York.
 * York is a charming walled city. Within its Yorkshire Museum is the "Harrogate Hoard", a collection of almost 700 Viking coins, discovered locally in 2007.