Hampi

Hampi, in the state of Karnataka, India, is the site of the once-magnificent capital of the Vijayanagara Empire. The ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage site.



Understand
Hampi was the capital of South Indian Vijayanagara Empire from the fourteenth to seventeenth centuries.

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Hampi attracts many visitors, many from other countries. For first-time visitors, it is highly recommended to hire a guide to help understand the magic and grandeur of Hampi by explaining its history and associated legends.

Before the fall of Vijayanagara Empire, diamonds were sold on the streets. The main street selling diamonds and other precious stones was surprisingly called Pan Supaari Street. A visitor can still see the exact location of Pan Supaari Street in Hampi, which has been marked with a board by Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Hampi is well worth at least one visit. The area is simply stunning and you will be in awe of the millions of boulders surrounding the area, many of which are scaled by climbers from all over the world. Within this landscape lies a little oasis with lush palm, banana, and mango trees and rice paddies nestled near the river.

Hampi is a great place to spend a few days wandering around and discovering the rich, vibrant history while also having a bit of 'your' time.

Hampi hosts the 'Hampi Utsav' (literally 'Hampi Festival') every year during the first week of November. It is a visual delight as all the monuments/ruins are lighted in the night and it is a cultural extravaganza of dance and music.

Read

 * A Forgotten Empire (ISBN 1419101250), Robert Sewell &mdash; a dated text (published over a century ago), but a thorough and interesting exploration of the rise and fall of the Vijayanagara Empire.
 * The New Cambridge History of India: Vijayanagara (ISBN 9781107022676), Burton Stein &mdash; part of Cambridge's gigantic multivolume work on the history of India, this is a definitive text on the Vijayanagara Empire's historical import.

By plane
The closest airport is Vidyanagar Airport ( also known as Jindal Vijaynagar Airport), about 35 km to the east, near the village of Toranagallu. TruJet, a regional airline, offers regularly scheduled flights from Hyderabad and Bangalore as of April 2018.

Bangalore is the nearest international airport, 350 km away from Hampi. Private taxis cost more than ₹6000 for Bangalore to Hampi.

By train
The nearest railway station is Hosapete Junction (IR station code: HPT), 13 km away.

Overnight trains run several times a week from Bangalore, Hyderabad and Goa. The trains are a much cheaper and more comfortable route than the tourist buses most people are led into (2 AC - bed with linen - costs ₹750 from Bangalore to Hampi). You can also catch an overnight train from Mysore to Hubli and from there to Hospet/Hampi.

Here are some useful trains to get into Hampi:

From Hospet it's convenient to take a rickshaw to Hampi (₹250) or Virupapura Gaddi/Hanumanahalli (the northern side of the river), which is a much longer drive, hence costs ₹1,200. Rickshaw drivers can be persistent and will poke their heads in the train before you even get off, but they may very well be the best option. Buses to Hampi are cheaper. It's about a kilometre and a half walk from the train station to the bus station. Take an Auto-rickshaw up to bus-stand (₹5 per head) and you can easily get frequent government buses for Hampi (₹10 per head).

Also see Rail travel in India

By car

 * Bangalore: 350 km; drive the 200 km till Chitradurga (featuring a fort from 10th century AD and a dam from 1907) on NH-4, take a right turn on NH-13 towards Sholapur till Hospet, and then drive another 13 km to reach Hampi (direction towards Hampi is well marked). The road is in excellent condition till Chitradurga but then deteriorates rapidly. You are also likely to encounter traffic jams due to ore-laden trucks plying on NH-13.
 * Hubli: 150 km
 * Hospet: 13 km
 * Hyderabad: 360 km. Take NH-7 till Jadcharla X-Road, turn right towards Mahboobnagar and carry on till Raichur. From Raichur, take Karnataka State Highway 20 towards Lingasugar, turn left at 10 km after Raichur onto Karnataka State Highway 23 to Sindhanoor. The road on the last 15-25 km stretch, after Gangavati, is not so bad. Lots of speed breakers in Karnataka. The 5-10 km stretch just before the Andhra Pradesh - Karnataka States Border on Andhra Pradesh side is full of potholes.
 * Mumbai: About 800 km or less: Take NH 4 up to Hubli & then go via Gadag-Hospet. Alternately Take NH 4, exit to Sangli/Miraj, Go to Athni-Bijapur. (Do not take short cuts as roads are really bad.) You may choose to see Badami, Pattadakkal, and Aihole as a 2 day add on excursion, otherwise proceed to Hampi the next day. Roads are average except speed breakers combined with potholes & heavy traffic of large trucks. (Strictly avoid night driving.) Prefer high ground clearance cars on this roads.

By bus

 * Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation operates daily buses to Hospet from Bangalore, Mysore and Gokarna. From Hospet you can go to Hampi on a local bus for ₹17 (April 2023). Book your tickets in advance if you want a coach or an air-con service, because the number of travellers is large (given that the place is very famous amongst foreigners) and the frequency of buses is less.
 * There is a KSRTC daily Panaji - Hampi / Hampi - Panaji service. It is a very comfortable ride and it starts and ends at Hampi bus station. Details and online ticketing can be done on the KSRTC site.
 * There are buses every 15-20 minutes from Hospet (new terminal) to Hampi. Getting seats is not a big problem.
 * There are private bus companies operating from most places in Goa and from Gokarna which run an overnight service to Hampi. Unfortunately, there is no direct return so you take a local bus (or taxi) to Hospet and take it from there.
 * For Indians who wish to stop at different places en route to Hampi, this is an itinerary you can follow using KSRTC buses. This is ex-Mumbai and was done in March 2013. Mumbai to Belgaum (overnight bus, approximately 8 hours). Belgaum to Bijapur (NWKRTC Inter-City bus, approximately 3 hours). Bijapur to Hospet (KSRTC Inter-City bus, approximately 3 hours). Hospet to Hampi (regular city bus, 15 minutes)

Get around
The real pleasure in exploring Hampi comes from on the bicycle or by walking around. Virtually every rock in Hampi has a story to tell. This story is best heard if you give it time and walk around from rock to rock.

Do note that the weather in Hampi can be a big factor. With all the boulders, big and small around, with soil from years of erosion, there is a lot of dust that blows in the air. There are open spaces with strong winds and while the wind keeps you pleasant, you can have a lot of dust blowing into your nose and mouth. In many of the monument areas, there are no trees or anything to provide shade (except the monuments themselves). So walking or cycling around the area involves a lot of exposure to direct sunlight. Keep your sunblock creams, hats, wet towels around your neck and bottles of water with you all the time.

By auto rickshaw
A convenient way to see all the sights without climbing the hills is by rickshaw, as the very aggressive drivers will very insistingly suggest as soon as you show your face anywhere.

Bargain with your rickshaw driver for a fixed rate (₹400-500 for a full day seems to be okay) and then hire an official Karnataka Travel guide (at the tourist office, they have fixed rates: 4 hr costs ₹500, 8h is ₹800) It costs a little bit, but the explanations help you to see more than just stones and temples. To get an estimate of cost and content, you can talk to the guides before coming down to Hampi. The guides willingly share their cellular numbers and email addresses.

As of Nov 2023, the full day charge for an auto-rickshaw varied from ₹1500 to ₹2000 depending on your negotiation skills.

By bus
The rickshaw drivers will tell you that there is no bus service with a straight face, but it's a lie. There are frequent buses between Hospet and Hampi, through Kamalapur where half of the ruins are located. So it's completely possible, for those who can bear long walks in the scorching sun, to visit Hampi without using a single rickshaw.

By bike
The following infBicycle is the best way to explore Hampi if you enjoy history, culture and nature. You can rent a 21-speed Trek bike from Art of Bicycle Trips. It usually costs around ₹100/day and they will keep one of your identity proof as a security deposit. Helmet and lock is included in the price. Please note that with bicycling, a little bit of walking is always required for exploring the interior of sites.

Regular, non-geared cycles are available at ₹50 per day, no security deposit is required. These cycles are available at the Hampi village.

By motorcycle
It is very hot! Dry, dry heat. And the walk between some sites can be at least 5 km. Plus, the surrounding area is quite breathtaking to ride around and you can explore some parts that the rickshaws won't take you. Guides are willing to ride on the back with you as well. This is a more expensive option (not for the thrifty!) than the rickshaw but it gives you more freedom and you can cover more in one day without rushing it. Take a guide with you one day, then do it all again by yourself the next.

Renting a bike like a Scooty or Kinetic Honda will cost you about ₹350 a day (without fuel) on the north side of the river. However, if it has a white license place (very likely), you can't use it on the south side (i.e. Hampi). Hiring a bike south of the river sounds like a good idea since that's where the ruins are. But for some reason, it costs much more there per day and there's only one place to rent from.

A liter of petrol will be sufficient for sightseeing around Hampi, but two liters would be handy if you have plans to go to Tungabadra Dam (some 15 km from Hampi). When renting a scooter/motor bike, petrol costs extra, and is normally sold at 40-50% premium in the place you rent (A liter may cost ₹120). A petrol pump is located in Kamalapur (and north of the river in Anegundi), which sell petrol at ordinary price. Two liters will get you to the major sites around Royal Centre and back, but three litres is a safer option. The countryside is a beautiful place for a leisurely drive so it's worth taking a bit more fuel.

Lately, as of Nov 2023 (and since 2017) the rental of motorcycles has been stopped due to the opposition of auto-rickshaw owners. Thus if you are staying in North Hampi (Sanapur side), you may rent a motorcycle only for the north side, and if you staying near Hampi or Kamlapur, then yuo may rent it only for south side, and there are very few bikes available in the south side. Thus practically you are forced to hire an auto-rickshaw.

By car
Bit more costly variant is renting a car. Various Car Rentals are available in Hospet. They normally charge ₹750 to ₹1,000 for a day site seeing and pick up or drop to railway station etc. There are several car rental companies in Hampi/Hospet including some prominent ones like SRB Travels (travels@srbempire.com), etc. Car rentals are also available from various nearby rail heads and airports like Bangalore, Goa, Hyderabad, and Belgaum to Hampi.

The ruins of Hampi are located within a 30 km2 area. While most of the famous places have drivable roads leading up to them.

By boat
Many guest houses are on the other side of the river in Sanapur, Hanumanahalli or in between the two, in Virupapur Gaddi. To access them, you need to cross river with the ferry. The people operating it have a monopoly, so the service is extortionate and the operators rather rude. ₹50 per crossing, you'll have to wait until there are enough people to fill the boat. Last boat around 5PM, so forget about coming back after watching the sunset on the hill. If you cannot get on the boat, an auto will take you other side via Hospet-Hugli-Hanumanhalli for at least ₹1000, it's a 40-km tour. During moderate/high rains, gates of Tungbhadra dam are opened which increases the water level and water flow in river. In that case, one might get stranded on the other side of river (Virupapur Gadde area).

See
Hampi is a visual delight, especially due to its stark contrast from most other places. Rocks are all you see whichever direction you look. Vegetation is visible in the wet months; but again it never dominates the landscape. It is an ideal spot for people who are interested in history and/or nature.

There are many sites of interest in and around Hampi. The following list of must-visits is sorted by the number on the map you see in the temples (from 1 to over 80 sites!): 1 to 35 being around Hampi; 40s to 70s in the southern part towards Kamalapura. Most sites are free, but the Vithala temple, the Lotus Mahal (incl. Zanana enclosure and Elephant Stables) as the Archeological museum have a combined ticket (₹600) valid for one day, so you have to plan your journey a bit! For instance, if you rent bicycles and start early in the morning, you can cover the southern temples in the morning, spend the hot hours of midday in the museum and go in the late afternoon to the Vithala temple! And eventually keep all sites closest to Hampi for a second day.



All these places are towards Hampi Bus Stand area and you don't need to cross river.

You can buy a local map for ₹15, and cover all the places on your own taking a bike/Scooty on rent. Otherwise, you can hire an auto to do local sightseeing. It would cost you around ₹400-500.


 * Tungabhadra Dam, 16 km from Hampi and its associated gardens are nice. It has got a nice dancing fountain too. Visiting the Tungabhadra Dam can be a nice filler instead of just waiting for the bus/train (typically at 10/11PM at night). Auto-rickshaw can go directly from Hampi to Tungabhadra dam at a cost of ₹200 (as of 2009). Aanother option is to take a bus from the gate for ₹20 per person for a half an hour visit to the dam. If you have plans to catch your train/bus back from Hospet, you could see Tungbhadra dam and return from Hospet. It takes 45 to 60 min to see Tungbhadra dam. You need to park your vehicles at the entrance and take a government bus to the top and return. It costs ₹20 return.

There are several "Shivalings" along the river which the boatman will guide you to. The old capital called Anegundi, across the river from Hampi, also has many sites. You can also go to Anegundi from Virupapur Gadde by road. There is a road alongside the old broken bridge (Bukka's Aqueduct). The Hanuman Temple on Anjenaya Hill (involves climbing up 572 steps, is believed to be the birthplace of Hanuman) and the Pampa Sarovar are worth a visit. Both of these places are around 7-8 km from the Old broken bridge.

There is Daroji bear sanctuary around 16 km from Hampi, opposite side of Kamalapura/Hospet. It opens between 1PM to 6PM. Not a must see but you can go there for a nice drive or ride if you have some time to kill.

To do justice to all the sites, one needs a minimum of 3 full days of sightseeing. To discover all the ruins, it may take much more than 3 days. Maybe months.

A new feature introduced by the tourist department of Karnataka called the Hampi By Night is magnificent where in the monuments are lit in bright varying colours in the night. For more information, contact the tourism department of Karnataka.

Hampi specifically is a small settlement on the river (Hampi Bazaar, Virupaksha Temple, etc.). The old city of Vijayanagara encompassed an area of 25 km² and ruins, monuments, structures, etc. lie scattered across the area. In fact, when arriving at Hampi from Hospet, one will pass many of these things.

If one sets base at Hampi Bazaar, one can get a manageable, navigable orientation of the entire area, one can look at four main zones.



Apart from all this, between Hospet and Hampi, there are a number of small towns and villages like Kamalapur, and Kadirampura, which are various parts of the old Vijayanagara city and which have now become fragmented settlements and small towns.

Bouldering & sport climbing

 * Since more than 30 years, rock climbers from all over flock to Hampi to scale the boulders and can often be seen around with their crash pads. Since bouldering was banned in Hampi proper, the scene is now gathered on the Virupapura Gadde side of the river and meets in Hanumanahalli (Golden Boulders & Wanderlust) and Sangapur (Goan Corner New).

Other activities

 * A good amount of walking is a must, as the ruins are scattered over a huge area. Moped/bicycle hire is a good option to move around.
 * Cross the river by one of those coracle ferry. If you do not know swimming, ensure that the coracle is not overcrowded. Your life is at stake. As of 2009, the cost is ₹15 per person and ₹5 for each piece of luggage. The other side of the river (Anegondi) spots a number of pre Vijayanagara relics.
 * If you go there in Jun-August, you will not find coracle ferry in action, the river is usually very high then, so if you want to go Anegondi you have to travel ~40 km. There is nothing to see there except the Hanuman temple on Anjana hill, but be prepared for a climb of about 600 steps.
 * If you are staying at Virupapur Gadde side of the river, plan to return by 5 pm. If you have a train/bus to catch in the night, checking out earlier helps. If the ferry closes, the auto/car option becomes a much longer and costlier affair.
 * Wildlife - The occasional crocodile may be encountered in the river or on rocks midstream, sometimes several meters long.
 * Leopards frequent some of the rocky hills, sometimes not too far from human habitation, and may venture out at night to prey on dogs or the odd goat.
 * Sloth bears are not only confined to Daroji sanctuary, but may wander the sugar cane fields at night. They can be dangerous when encountered with cubs in tow.
 * As many as 185 species of bird can be identified at various times of the year in the Hampi environs.

Buy

 * The stone carvings are made by local artists are a good souvenirs to buy here. The same thing in Bangalore will cost ten times the price.  The hand-stitched blankets are also a good choice.
 * Shops can be found all over the Hampi, mainly near to Virupaksha temple, selling jewellery, bags, clothes, shawls, etc. Visitors can bargain in these shops to fetch good deal. You can even opt for tailor made dresses, if you have enough time and patience.
 * In Hampi, one can see clothes hanging in diverse range of colours and variety with beautiful edges. The town is a real paradise for the people who want to buy western costumes but not for ladies who are looking for saris.
 * Hoova Craft Shop & Café  - It is in city centre and tourists can have a tea or coffee, while looking around the local goods and handicrafts.

Eat
There are lots of places in Hampi Bazaar where you get satisfying and inexpensive food, though be prepared for a long wait at most places as the chefs are typically family members who prepares food to order. However, they are good at their jobs and can offer a wide range of different cuisines.

Restaurants:


 * The Goan Corner, an idyllic cafe on the other side of the river is an experience in itself. Very famous among the foreigner crowds, it takes a 10-15 min walk across the green paddy fields to make your way to this place. It is run by a very friendly family where the lady don, Sharmila reigns supreme. Unlike the other closely arranged cafes, Goan Corner is rather desolated and adds to the magic that Hampi creates.
 * Garden Paradise. This is behind the line of shops in Hampi Bazaar which are towards left in the direction towards Virupaksha Temple. Located by the banks of Tungabhadra River, the ambiance is quite pleasant. Reasonably priced too. They offer huts as well for accommodation.
 * Laughing Buddha restaurant. This is on other side of river (Virupapur Gadde) and close to Shanthi guest house. There are mattress, cushions and low benches in it. So, you can just lie down and sit at ease. Continental food is very nice here with good variety. It also offers Punjabi food.
 * Sagar Hotel's Idli, Dosa & Gunta Ponganalu. Just besides Gopi Guest House and right in front of the Shambhu Guest House, which are located near the Virupaksha Temple, 'Shankaramma' under a thatched roof makes delicious idlies, dosas and the tasty 'gunta pongal.' Do not miss this place. The food is not only delicious but also very cheap.
 * Garden Paradise. This is behind the line of shops in Hampi Bazaar which are towards left in the direction towards Virupaksha Temple. Located by the banks of Tungabhadra River, the ambiance is quite pleasant. Reasonably priced too. They offer huts as well for accommodation.
 * Laughing Buddha restaurant. This is on other side of river (Virupapur Gadde) and close to Shanthi guest house. There are mattress, cushions and low benches in it. So, you can just lie down and sit at ease. Continental food is very nice here with good variety. It also offers Punjabi food.
 * Sagar Hotel's Idli, Dosa & Gunta Ponganalu. Just besides Gopi Guest House and right in front of the Shambhu Guest House, which are located near the Virupaksha Temple, 'Shankaramma' under a thatched roof makes delicious idlies, dosas and the tasty 'gunta pongal.' Do not miss this place. The food is not only delicious but also very cheap.
 * Sagar Hotel's Idli, Dosa & Gunta Ponganalu. Just besides Gopi Guest House and right in front of the Shambhu Guest House, which are located near the Virupaksha Temple, 'Shankaramma' under a thatched roof makes delicious idlies, dosas and the tasty 'gunta pongal.' Do not miss this place. The food is not only delicious but also very cheap.

Drink
Hampi is a religious center so drinking is not allowed. Therefore, beer or other alcoholic drinks are generally not available at local restaurants. However, Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari is in the neighboring town of Kamalapur has a bar that serves beer and wine.

Other hotels like Shanti and Kishkinda, which are across the river, do serve beer and hard liquor.

Few cafes and small shops are also spotted in Hampi Bazaar providing soft drinks, lassi and some other famous south Indian beverages.

Sleep
In Hampi specifically, there are two clusters of settlements. There is the Janata Plot on the river road, just under the Virupaksha Temple. The other is opposite the bus stand. These settlements resemble hamlets, not even villages. Guest houses are essentially village huts modified for guests. Most have attached bathrooms while some may have shared facilities.

As of March 2013, there were frequent power losses. A few wealthy guest house owners had power generators and inverters with which basic lights and fans could be operated. There are a few who offer air conditioned rooms but with the frequent power cuts, one is not sure how effective those AC rooms really are.

There are several guest houses in Hampi, though staying in Hospet or the nearby town of Kamalapur are also options. Staying at Hospet gives easy accessibility to the railway station and better hotels. Hampi is also not very far from Hospet.

Most guest houses in Hampi are rather basic. Do not expect too much. Avoid places recommended in the Lonely Planet guide, because they immediately raise their rates and lower their quality. A lot of cheaper guest houses are found north of the river in Sanapur, Hanumanahalli and Sangapur. For some of them, you will need to rent a scooter directly after you exit the ferry, if you want to avoid walking 5 km to your accommodation. All hostels, shops and restaurants on 'Hippie Island' were razed to the ground by the government in 2021 (except for the bike rental and the Ashram).

If coming in April through to September (off season), check with the hotel for bookings, especially if you plan to stay on the north side of the river. Many guest houses and restaurants close down, except a few prominent ones.



Stay safe
Visitors should be sure to watch out for monkeys. They are notorious for snatching and running away with visitors' handbags, cameras, and other loose belongings.

Keeping mosquito repellent on hand is a good idea.

Be extra careful when you choose to explore rocky places, especially when you are trying to climb over boulders.

Avoid travelling to Hampi during the months of April and May, as temperature can get as high as 43°C (110°F). If you are planning to visit it during summer, remember to carry sufficient water so as to avoid the risk of dehydration. Bottled drinking water is easily available. You may not be able to get chilled bottles (as electricity will sometimes cut out).

Respect

 * Out of deference to the sacred nature of the site, do not consume drugs and alcohol in the area.
 * When visiting the temple or ruins of former temples, cover up and do not show too much skin. The locals will not stop you, but may bear a silent grudge. Be a good guest.
 * Please visit any monument only for the sake of visiting, but not for any other purpose. Please do not scribble or climb or sit on any monuments.They have stood rain and sun for centuries and have to continue to stand for many more centuries.

Go next

 * Lakkundi


 * Badami
 * Aihole
 * Pattadakal
 * Kakkabe &mdash; It is very near Hampi and is very famous for Padi Igutappa temple. What makes this place unique is its peaceful and serene environment.
 * Goa — accessible by train via Hospet. The Amaravathi express takes an incredible route through jungle and past a waterfall.