Halifax

Halifax is the capital city of Nova Scotia and the largest city in Atlantic Canada. The city's origins and rich maritime history derive from a strategic location and one of the world's great natural harbours. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Halifax was the entry point for European immigration to Canada. Today, Halifax is a busy Atlantic seaport and the economic and cultural hub of Eastern Canada.

Understand
Halifax is the provincial and regional hub of Nova Scotia. It is, however, a small city by North American standards (2024 pop. 463,000). Rather than feeling relegated to 'second-fiddle' status, this dichotomy is celebrated by residents who take pride in their slower pace and warm hospitality.

History
The area around Halifax has been inhabited by native Mi'kmaq for millennia. Modern Halifax was founded on June 21, 1749 as a British military outpost. Easily defended and featuring the world's second largest natural harbour, Halifax proved its worth during the Seven Years' War against the French and later in the American Revolutionary War, and as the base grew in size and importance, a significant population of merchants and other civilians sprung up in its wake.

On December 6, 1917, the collision of the SS Mont-Blanc, a freighter loaded with over 2,500 tons of explosives, and the SS Imo resulted in the Halifax Explosion, which killed over 2,000 people and levelled the northern half of the city. It was the largest artificial explosion before the invention of the nuclear bomb. There are numerous monuments around the city commemorating the explosion, including the Halifax Explosion Memorial Bell Tower in the North End and a piece of the Mont-Blanc's anchor over 3 km away.

The city was quickly rebuilt, and during World War II Halifax was busier than ever, with British supply convoys assembling to start their perilous journey across the Atlantic as German U-boats lurked offshore. After the war, over a million immigrants to Canada passed through Halifax.

Orientation
The city of Halifax is on Halifax Peninsula, on the west side of the harbour, with Dartmouth to the east. The main landmark is the Halifax Citadel, on a high hill above the city, and it divides the city into three districts: the South End, representing the older, wealthier urban core south of the Citadel; the North End, the grittier northern suburbs destroyed by the Explosion; and the largely residential West End. The downtown core is sandwiched between the Citadel and the sea, making navigation a snap. Inhabitants of the city are known as Haligonians.

Climate
Extreme cold or hot temperatures are rare, as Halifax is located next to the ocean. Also the Gulf Stream helps making the winters milder. Typical for an oceanic climate at these latitudes, there will be a lot of rain or snow throughout the year. Summer and early autumn are, weather-wise, the best seasons to visit the city. In the autumn months hurricanes affecting the North American east coast may occasionally move all the way up to Halifax.

Airport




Destinations
Direct flights to Halifax within Canada include from Calgary (4.75 hours), from Edmonton (4.5 hours), from Montreal (1.5-1.75 hours), from Ottawa (1.5 hours), from St. John's (2 hours), and from Toronto (2 hours).

Direct flights to Halifax from destinations in the United States of America include from New York, Chicago, Boston, Philadelphia, and limited service to a number of regional and holiday destinations.

Direct flights to Halifax from Saint-Pierre (Saint Pierre and Miquelon e) (1.5 hours).

Direct flights to Halifax from Europe are provided from London (6.25 hours) by Air Canada, Dublin (seasonal) by Europe Airpost, Frankfurt/Main (May–October) only by Condor.

Airlines
Canadian airlines operating to Halifax:

Other airlines:



Public transit
MetroX Route 320 is the only public transit connection between the airport and city, and the most affordable option. It is an express bus service to downtown Halifax with only two intermediate stops in Fall River and Dartmouth (Bridge Terminal). The total journey time is 55 minutes and the fare is $4.25 one-way ($1.50 with paper ticket, monthly pass, or UPass). Payments options include paper tickets/physical passes, cash, or Halifax Transit's digital fare payment system HFXGO. Buses will accept cash, but be aware that they do not provide change, and the ATMs at the airport will typically not offer denominations below $20. You may have luck changing money when buying something at one of the shops in the departures hall or in the Lost&Found / Security Office near the exit leading to the bus stop (limited opening times). It runs on 30-minute frequencies on-peak and 60 minutes off-peak, with the first departure from the airport at 5:45AM and the last 12:15AM.

The airport stop is on Silver Dart Drive, after picking up luggage turn left and walk towards the food court area, take the escalator down then turn right, after walking outside turn left and the stop will be about 60 m ahead. A schedule is posted inside the bus shelter. Upon boarding you should ask the driver for a "transfer" (small slip of paper that you can show the driver of the next bus as proof of payment, valid for 90 minutes). You can change buses in Dartmouth or Halifax, or call a cab from either bus stop.

The Bridge Terminal in Dartmouth is a convenient place to change buses. It has an indoor waiting area with a concessions kiosk, public washroom, and transit information. From the Bridge Terminal, Route 1 goes straight to downtown Halifax and the Spring Garden Road area. It may be crowded during peak hours.

Route 320's final stop, in downtown Halifax, is located on Albemarle Street. It is within walking distance to certain hotels including the Delta Halifax, Delta Barrington, Prince George Hotel, Hampton Inn, and Homewood Suites. Otherwise, Albemarle Street is somewhat out-of-the-way and you may want to call a cab to reach your final destination. If you are unencumbered by heavy luggage and wish to transfer to other buses you should walk down the hill to the bus stop in front of Duke Tower (for buses toward Quinpool Road) or to the Scotia Square Terminal on Barrington Street (for buses toward the south end, Spring Garden Road, and the universities).

Taxis
Taxis and limousines from the airport to downtown charge a flat rate of $68.

By train

 * Operates The Ocean route with three trips per direction per week between Halifax and Montreal, including stops in Moncton and Sainte-Foy (near Quebec City). Travel time to Halifax from Moncton is 4.25 hours, from Sainte-Foy is 18 hours, and from Montreal is 21.75 hours. A shuttle between train stations in Sainte-Foy and Quebec City is available to transfer to and from The Ocean service, but advance reservation is required.
 * Operates The Ocean route with three trips per direction per week between Halifax and Montreal, including stops in Moncton and Sainte-Foy (near Quebec City). Travel time to Halifax from Moncton is 4.25 hours, from Sainte-Foy is 18 hours, and from Montreal is 21.75 hours. A shuttle between train stations in Sainte-Foy and Quebec City is available to transfer to and from The Ocean service, but advance reservation is required.

By car
Halifax is connected to the rest of Canada by provincial highways 102 and 104. Highway 102 runs between Halifax and Truro, where it connects to Highway 104 (the Trans-Canada Highway). Going west on 104 takes one to the New Brunswick border, and then onto Maine, Quebec, or Prince Edward Island. The drive from Halifax to the New Brunswick border takes about two hours, and there is a $4 toll at the Cobequid Pass. Going east on 104 takes you to Cape Breton or, alternatively, the ferry to Prince Edward Island.

For connections to other parts of Nova Scotia, provincial highways 101, 103 and 7 are the most direct options. Highway 101 connects Halifax to Yarmouth via the Annapolis Valley, Highway 103 connects Halifax to Yarmouth via the South Shore, and Highway 7 connects the Halifax Region with the Eastern Shore and Antigonish.

By bus

 * Operates the following routes to Halifax:
 * Between Halifax and Kentville including stops in Dartmouth and Wolfville. Travel time to Halifax from Dartmouth is 15 minutes, from Wolfville is 1.5 hours, and from Kentville is 2 hours.
 * Between Halifax and Lunenburg including stops in Chester and Bridgewater. Travel time to Halifax from Chester is 1 hour, from Bridgewater is 1.5 hours, and from Lunenberg is 1.75 hours.
 * Between Halifax and Moncton including stops in Dartmouth, Halifax Airport, Truro, Amherst, Sackville, and Moncton Airport. Travel time to Halifax from Dartmouth is 15 minutes, from Halifax International Airport is 40 minutes, from Truro is 1.5 hours, from Amherst is 2.5 hours, and from Moncton is 3.75 hours.
 * Between Halifax and Sydney including stops in Dartmouth, Halifax Airport, Truro, New Glasgow, Antigonish, Port Hawkesbury, and North Sydney. Travel time to Halifax from Dartmouth is 15 minutes, from Halifax International Airport is 40 minutes, from Truro is 1.5 hours, from Antigonish is 3 hours, from North Sydney is 5.75 hours, and from Sydney is 6.5 hours.
 * Travel to Halifax from the following destinations involving same day transfers is as follows:
 * From Charlottetown (4.75 hours) with a transfer in Amherst.
 * From Bathurt (7 hours), Campbellton (8.25 hours), Edmundston (10.25 hours), Fredericton (6.5 hours), Miramichi (6 hours), and Saint John (6.75 hours) with a transfer in Moncton.
 * Connections from Quebec City, Rimouski, and Gaspé can be made on Orléans Express. The stop at Pointe-à-la-Croix, QC is a 2km taxi ride from Campbellton.
 * Connections from Quebec City, Rimouski, and Gaspé can be made on Orléans Express. The stop at Pointe-à-la-Croix, QC is a 2km taxi ride from Campbellton.

By boat
Carnival Cruise Lines and other major cruise lines operate cruises to Halifax. The presence of cruises in Halifax has declined due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Get around
The Halifax Peninsula is quite dense and charming, owing to its 18th century street layout, however beyond the peninsula sprawl becomes more prominent. Public transit is limited and mostly impractical outside the peninsula. The downtown shopping and attractions will engage the average traveller for a day or two at most. Beyond this time frame, a car rental will significantly open up the surrounding area.

By foot
Founded in 1749, long before the automobile, Halifax is a very walkable city. The blocks are relatively small and the streets are mostly quite narrow, excellent for taking a comfortable stroll around the city's various neighbourhoods. The downtown and waterfront can (and should) be explored entirely on foot, there is an abundance of excellent shops, bars, and restaurants with patios, all catering primarily to pedestrians. Walking south of South Street (especially around the streets that branch off Inglis Street, South Park Street/Young Avenue) there are hundreds of Victorian homes and Registered Historic Properties which are best appreciated at a slow pace on foot. Further south you will reach Point Pleasant Park with 39 km of trails between dense forest and connecting National Historic Sites and various monuments.

Walking is safe in Halifax, most drivers are used to giving way to pedestrians at intersections, although they may not stop if crossing mid-block. Crimes against pedestrians are uncommon, although panhandlers can be persistent and drunk students are always around and can be boisterous.

By car
There are no photo radar or red light cameras in Nova Scotia. If you are caught, it'll be by a live officer. At some lights, there is an "advanced green", or flashing green light, which means that you can proceed left, straight, or right at your leisure. Green arrow lights are rare. Pedestrians are king. People will often cross a road in the middle of the block, and cars often stop for them. U-turns are legal (de facto anywhere a left turn is allowed, de jure), barring a no U-turn sign.

It's very important that you give buses the right of way, give them enough room to turn in intersections, and avoid passing them on one-lane streets like Barrington.

By ferry
Halifax Transit operates two ferry routes that stop at. One route travels to and from and one route travels to and from. The Halifax to Dartmouth ferry dates back to 1752. For the same cost as bus fare, one can take the ferry back and forth between Dartmouth and Halifax, this is an excellent (and cheap) way to take in the skyline views, spot ships, and mingle with locals. Make sure to get a transfer (valid for 90 minutes), so you can spend some time in Dartmouth, then return on the same ticket.

The Halifax-Woodside Ferry only runs Monday to Friday, there is little to do, and few places to go from the Woodside terminal.

By taxi
There are a number of taxi services in the city, although flagging a taxi down may be difficult in certain areas. Calling and reserving cabs is rarely an issue. If you are bar or club bound for the evening, catching a cab back from downtown after last call may be difficult. If you need a taxi to get to the airport then your best luck would be search Halifax Airport Taxi on any search engine or social media account.



By ride hailing

 * As of December 2020 Uber is available in the Halifax area.

Parks

 * Mount Olivet Cemetery (RC) holds another 19 victims of the sinking, and Baron de Hirsch Cemetery (Jewish) holds ten.
 * Mount Olivet Cemetery (RC) holds another 19 victims of the sinking, and Baron de Hirsch Cemetery (Jewish) holds ten.
 * Mount Olivet Cemetery (RC) holds another 19 victims of the sinking, and Baron de Hirsch Cemetery (Jewish) holds ten.
 * Mount Olivet Cemetery (RC) holds another 19 victims of the sinking, and Baron de Hirsch Cemetery (Jewish) holds ten.
 * Mount Olivet Cemetery (RC) holds another 19 victims of the sinking, and Baron de Hirsch Cemetery (Jewish) holds ten.
 * Mount Olivet Cemetery (RC) holds another 19 victims of the sinking, and Baron de Hirsch Cemetery (Jewish) holds ten.

Learn
Halifax is home to three major universities. Students make up a significant proportion of the population in certain neighbourhoods.
 * Spread over three campuses, Dalhousie University is the largest educational institution in Nova Scotia. With 15,000 undergraduates and a broad range of graduate and professional programs, Dalhousie is one of Canada's leading universities.
 * Located in the south end of the city, Saint Mary's University is somewhat smaller. St. Mary's is renowned for its business school, strong alumni support, and athletics.
 * Located just off the peninsula, along the Bedford highway is Mount Saint Vincent University, a smaller university with a focus on undergraduate studies, and professional programs including those in teaching and public relations.

Other educational institutions include:
 * The head of the world-wide Buddhist Shambhala organization is in Halifax. The Halifax Shambala Centre offers courses in Buddhism, particularly methods related to the Shambhala tradition.
 * The head of the world-wide Buddhist Shambhala organization is in Halifax. The Halifax Shambala Centre offers courses in Buddhism, particularly methods related to the Shambhala tradition.
 * The head of the world-wide Buddhist Shambhala organization is in Halifax. The Halifax Shambala Centre offers courses in Buddhism, particularly methods related to the Shambhala tradition.
 * The head of the world-wide Buddhist Shambhala organization is in Halifax. The Halifax Shambala Centre offers courses in Buddhism, particularly methods related to the Shambhala tradition.

Work
The military is the largest employer in the region. The city is home to Maritime Forces Atlantic HQ and the navy's East Coast fleet. Among the military installations around the city are Windsor Park, Stadacona and HMC Dockyard. It is hard to go anywhere without seeing a reference to the Navy.

Many corporations have their regional headquarters in the city, some are located downtown like TD and the Royal Bank, while others are in some of the major business parks in the region like Burnside Industrial Park or the Aerotech Park which is located next to the Airport. Both have direct access to the major provincial highways and while the Aerotech Park is next to the airport which influences the Aerospace theme, Burnside has a 10- to 15-min travel time to the airport.

Stores


If you forgot to buy lobster in the city, you can still pick one up at the airport. A store called Clearwater Seafood sells both live and cooked lobster to you to bring onto the flight. (It's legal to bring live and cooked lobster onboard a domestic flight.)

Eat
Many restaurants in Halifax specialize in seafood dishes. Seafood is generally not much cheaper in the Maritimes than elsewhere, with the exception of mussels, which are generally good quality, cheap, and found on many appetizer menus. Another seafood worth having is scallops, as they are generally higher quality than the ones you get in many parts of North America (good scallops are the size of a golf ball or larger, and do not taste fishy). "Sea pie" is often a good deal when available, as are hearty eats like fish and chips or seafood chowder. Lobster in a restaurant will be expensive, so your best cheap bets are to buy one at the store and cook one yourself, or attend any of the numerous lobster dinners that are hosted by churches and community groups throughout the warmer months. Buying lobster from the various fishermans markets or directly from the fisherman themselves (who will often sell street side out of a car) will get you the best deal.

A plethora of foods that are native to Nova Scotia are easy to find in Halifax: one is the Halifax donair, which is similar to but distinct from the Turkish doner kebab. It is prepared using thinly sliced beef meatloaf and a sweet condensed milk garlic sauce and garnished with diced tomatoes and white onions. Other specialties include hodge podge (a creamy soup of fresh baby vegetables; rarely found in restaurants); blueberry grunt (blueberry baked with a sweet dumpling topping); and deep fried pepperoni (a bar snack often dipped in honey mustard sauce). Restaurants in Halifax and indeed Atlantic Canada offer a donair pizza featuring all the Halifax donair ingredients served on a pizza crust. In addition, one can normally find donair meat used in such offerings as donair sausage; donair egg rolls (an egg roll casing stuffed with donair meat); donair pogos (donair meat on a stick, battered and deep-fried, similar to a corn dog); donair calzones/panzerottis; and in donair poutine (an Atlantic adaptation of the Quebec snack dish). It is customary for bar and pub-goers to flock to pizzerias once all the bars, clubs, and pubs close on Friday and Saturday nights for a bite of pizza, or especially donair.

Garlic fingers are an Atlantic Canadian dish similar to a pizza in shape and size and made with the same type of dough. Instead of the traditional tomato sauce and toppings, garlic fingers consist of pizza dough topped with garlic butter, parsley, and cheese, cooked until the cheese is melted. Bacon bits are sometimes added. They are typically eaten as a side dish with pizza and often dipped in donair or marinara sauce. They are presented in thin strips (or "fingers") as opposed to triangular slices.

Garlic fingers and the Halifax donair are relatively unknown outside the Maritimes, but can sometimes be found in restaurants in other provinces.

Budget
Many of the cheap eats in town are along Spring Garden Road. Also consider local pubs (see Drink), many of which serve up great food.



Drink


There are a large number of good cafes, pubs, and other eateries all throughout downtown. Mostly clustered around the downtown, especially Argyle Street, and waterfront, but there are also excellent options across the harbour in Dartmouth and in the city's North End

Liquor purchases for private consumption are regulated by the provincially owned liquor monopoly called the NSLC (Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation). Stores can be found in stand-alone locations, malls, and grocery stores. Selection is often surprisingly large, but be prepared to pay: a 12-pack of beer can range from $17-20, and a pint of rum or vodka will set you back $12-14. All prices quoted include taxes and recycling deposits. Most stores close at 10PM Monday to Saturday and 5PM on Sundays. Stores are closed for holidays. The exception has been the sole drive-through outlet near the in Dartmouth end of the MacDonald Bridge; it is frequently open holidays, but for drive-through service only. Port of Wines and several other micro-breweries are also permitted to sell their products from their outlets.

Pubs
Until a couple of decades ago, Halifax retained old British laws about the serving of alcoholic beverages. For example, if an establishment served hard liquor, it had to provide live entertainment; if it served draft beer, it also had to serve food. The heritage of those laws is a great deal of live entertainment and some very good deals on "pub food" which is priced low to get people in the door. Most "pub food" originates not far from the grill and deep fryer. Pubs that specialize in traditional-style music have "open mic" nights. Performers who attend will bring in their fiddles and bagpipes to jam---they are paid in drinks and food.



Craft breweries and distilleries
Many of the local craft producers have rooms or patios where you can enjoy their products on-site.



Cannabis
Cannabis is fully legal in Canada and Halifax has amongst the highest use in the country. The only legal vendor in Halifax is the NSLC, with two locations on the Halifax peninsula and one in Dartmouth. There are still stores claiming to sell cannabis operating in the "grey market" these are best avoided and not generally worth the small savings in price. Prices in Nova Scotia are slightly higher than other provinces in Canada, where the industry is open to private retailers. Expect to pay around $30 for 3.5 grams of flower, and $5-10 per 0.5 gram pre-roll. Consumption is officially only allowed on private property and in Designated Smoking Areas (DSAs, map), however discreet consumption on most streets and parks is tolerated.

Stay safe
Halifax is a generally safe city, but you should be aware when walking around certain areas of the city at night. The North End, including the Gottingen Street area, is relatively safe by international standards but has something of a rough reputation locally. In most cases, common sense should suffice.

Pedestrian crosswalks are highly respected by drivers in Halifax, and crossings can occur just about anywhere. This provides a double danger: for drivers to keep on the ball watching out for pedestrians; and for pedestrians to not be lulled into a false sense of security while crossing.

Rapidly changing weather means that black ice abounds in winter, and it's particularly nasty when combined with the city's hilly topography. Choose your steps and drive carefully.

Connect
McDonald's and Starbucks on Spring Garden road have free WiFi. The Halifax Central Library also has free WiFi and computers that can be used for free by asking staff at a desk for a guest pass. The computers have internet access, Microsoft Office and various Adobe programs.

Scotia Square has Bell and Telus shops, where prepaid SIM cards can be purchased.

Go next
St. Margaret's Bay is only half an hour away; a gorgeous bay, almost as big as the harbour itself, but without the cities. Instead, it is dotted with islands and small towns. In its northwestern corner there are beautiful beaches, such as Queensland, Cleveland, Black Point and others, just before the town of Hubbards. Maybe the best known destination there is Peggys Cove: stunning bare granite rocks and cliffs with its historic and still-used lighthouse. While sunsets are gorgeous and peaceful on clear summer evenings; the best times to see Peggy's Cove are the stormier days, when the waves crashing against the cliffs send salt spray high into the air. Better to get out there early in the day to avoid tour buses.

If you have a car, there are plenty of historical towns within a couple of hours' drive of Halifax that are worth visiting, such as Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, and Wolfville. Also the drive along the two-lane coastal Highway 3 is an attraction in itself, twisting and turning through the beautifully scenic landscape it's especially nice on summer days.

Charter flights leave from Halifax to Sable Island, 300 km offshore in the Atlantic Ocean.

You can also fly to Saint Pierre and Miquelon, a group of islands south of Newfoundland and Labrador that still belongs to France.