Haikou

Haikou (海口 Hǎikǒu) is the provincial capital of Hainan Province in southern China and is at the north end of the Hainan Island. Haikou is a tropical coastal city that, as one of the least developed provincial capitals, has a somewhat laid-back atmosphere.

Understand
Its population consists mostly of immigrants from other provinces, and many development projects are in progress.

Many streets in Haikou are quite different during the day than in the evening. You will soon notice the abundance of coconut trees in Haikou. Most streets are lined with them. It is greener than most Chinese cities and has decent air quality.

The downtown does not have many tourist attractions and the water in its only beach area is murky but as a transport hub, it can serve a base for traveling to some cities on the north of Hainan.

Get in
Haikou is a transport hub with flights to many cities and boats to nearby mainland cities such as Beihai and Zhanjiang.

By plane


Haikou is the main hub of Hainan Airlines, which has domestic flights from many cities in Mainland China and from some international destinations such as Hong Kong, Macau, Bangkok, Singapore, London (via Changsha), Sydney, and Melbourne. In addition, Haikou is well-served by other Chinese airlines, particularly China Southern Airlines.

There are also international flights from Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific and Hong Kong Airlines, Singapore on Scoot, Kuala Lumpur on Batik Air Malaysia, and Phnom Penh on Cambodia Angkor Air.

By train
From the mainland

There is a train link between Haikou and Guangdong province (the trains are loaded onto ferries to cross the strait). So you can get the train from Guangzhou to Haikou. Some of these trains actually finish in Sanya. There are scheduled services from Beijing West (via Shijiazhuang, Zhengzhou, Wuhan, Changsha and Guangzhou), Changchun (via Shenyang North, Tianjin, Nanchang and Guangzhou), Harbin West (via Changchun, Shenyang North, Nanchang and Guangzhou), Shanghai South (via Hangzhou South and Guangzhou) and Xinxiang (via Zhengzhou, Wuhan, Changsha and Guilin North). These services use only regular-speed trains. The nearest high-speed train station on the mainland is in Zhanjiang, which is about 3 hours by high-speed train from Guangzhou. From the Zhanjiang HSR station, you can take either a train or a bus to Haikou. If you're coming from Southwest China, however, you may want to consider getting a high-speed train to Beihai, then taking a ferry to Haikou from there. Cities such as Chongqing, Guiyang, and Kunming all have high-speed train services to Beihai but not to Zhanjiang (though there are some slow trains to Zhanjiang from those cities).

From other parts of Hainan

A high-speed railway connects the major towns on the east and west coasts of Hainan. It takes 1½–2 hours from Sanya to Haikou. The trains also serve the airports in both Haikou and Sanya. Other stops on the line include Wenchang, Qionghai, Bo'ao, Wanning, Lingshui, Ledong, Dongfang, Baimajing, Lingao, Fushan and Laocheng.

Stations

Haikou has three major railway stations, including the airport station. There are also several minor stations, which are served only by suburban trains.



By bus
Buses connect Haikou to many cities on the Chinese mainland, including Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Guilin, and Nanning. Most buses are overnight sleepers. Buses are loaded on to ferries and arrive in Haikou at either New Port or Xiuying Port. Here are a few examples of journey duration and price (as of July 2023):
 * From Guangzhou (7.5 to 12 hours) ¥190-210
 * From Guilin	(10 hours) ¥328
 * From Shenzhen (18 to 30 hours) ¥260-310

The city has three main bus stations:



Bus stations can also be found at the airport and the two ferry terminals.

By boat
There are frequent daily ferries between Haikou and Xuwen. The journey time and fare varies according to which ferry terminal you choose to depart from. A new ferry terminal opened at Xuwen Port (徐闻港) in October 2020. Ferries from Xuwen Port to Haikou's New Port take around 60 minutes. You can also still catch a ferry from Xuwen's old ferry terminal at Hai'an New Port (海安新港). Ferries from Hai'an New Port to Haikou's Xiuying Port take about 90 minutes. The fare for both ferries is ¥41.50. There are bus connections from Xuwen to other cities, but the options are limited compared to Haikou, especially in the evening.

There are daily Haikou-Beihai ferries, leaving Beihai at 17:00, taking around 12 hours and costing between ¥160-400 per person, depending on class (there are 5 different classes). For those of you traveling in China by bicycle, you can also take your bike on the ferry for an additional ¥20.

Travellers should bear in mind that it's quite common for ferries to be cancelled due to bad weather. This can occur both during the summer (due to storms and typhoons) and during the winter (due to heavy fog). If it happens during a major holiday period such as the Spring Festival, you can expect insane traffic jams and extremely large queues outside the ferry terminals when services finally resume. Hopefully the new ferry terminal in Xuwen will help to alleviate such problems in the future.

Get around
There are five main forms of public transportation in Haikou:
 * Taxi which is the most expensive option. They are easily hailed everywhere in the city. The meter starts at ¥10, but it is customary to bargain before you get on, and a typical fare for a shorter trip is ¥15. The taxi from the airport is half an hour to the city centre.  On arrival you will have a familiar experience in China of a number of drivers shouting taxi at you. These are illegal taxis, and you risk at least paying extra for your journey by taking these.  Instead, walk out of the terminal building and you will see a line of licensed taxis.  Before departing, insist on using the meter (dabiao) even if they are reluctant to do so.  It should cost ¥50-60 to the city centre.
 * Buses are very inexpensive, but you need to know the routes. If you choose to get the bus from the airport, show the address of your hotel to the attendant who will show you the bus that will take you closest. There is an airport shuttle that cost ¥15 per person from airport to Home Inn (formerly Civil Aviation Hotel) at Haixiu Avenue in downtown Haikou.
 * Commuter trains run in an east-west direction along Hainan's high-speed railway line. Stops include Haikou Railway Station, Changliu, Xiuying, Chengxi, Haikou East Railway Station and Haikou Meilan International Airport. Since there's only one line and not many stations on the route, these trains are mainly useful for getting to the airport and the two major railway stations. Ticket prices are between ¥2 and ¥10.
 * Motorbike taxis are mostly electric and you can get anywhere within the city for ¥5-10.
 * Additionally you may also rent a bicycle or an electric scooter. Haikou is very bike friendly, with wide side ways for both bikes and scooters. The riverside road 滨江路, for instance, is equipped with a beautiful car free biking and running path all along the river. Additionally, Haikou is also a major starting point for long-distance traveling on bicycles around the island of Hainan.

Historical sites

 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg
 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg
 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg
 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg
 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg
 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg
 * 五公祠 - Five Officials Temple - 2016.01 - panoramio.jpg

Eat
The tropical weather of Haikou has attracted the Chinese all over the country to move to this island, along with their specialty. While most tourists don't come to Haikou for food, an impressive choice of foods is a hidden gem. The cooking style is a fusion of Cantonese, Hokkienese and certain Southeast Asian elements and seafood is impressive.

Prices have surged as the tourism industry is booming. However, prices are still generally lower than many other Chinese cities if you can avoid being overcharged. Compare to other places such as Sanya, Haikou is less touristy and a way cheaper to taste the local food.

Things to eat

 * Chao Bing (炒冰 chǎobīng) Literally 'stir-fried ice' in Chinese, it is a fresh-made sorbet-like dessert. First select your fresh tropical fruits. The fruits are blended. A device that looks like a frying pan is used to freeze the juice in a minute. This process, due to its super chill temperature, yields a very fine ice crystal and make the sorbet so smooth. Perhaps try a combination of Mango and Passion Fruit. Costs just ¥5. Good Chao Bing vendors can be found on San Xi Lu, just off Renmin Dadao, on Haidian Island in the north of Haikou.
 * Betel nuts (檳榔 bīnglang) Illegal in some western countries, betel nuts are common in South East Asia and India. Chewed for their effects as a mildly euphoric stimulant, attributed to the presence of relatively high levels of psychoactive alkaloids. Spot the locals who chew betel nuts by their red teeth. Popular with bus drivers. Available on street corners for around ¥1. Shops also sell the dried variety. These are not as potent.

Areas to eat

 * Hainan University Night Market It is a busy night food market outside the Hainan University and caters for the wallet of undergraduates, which means food is cheap and reasonably priced. Common items include Chao Bing, Qingbuliang (various beans and jelly in iced coconut soup), BBQ. Operates​ until 23:00 or 00:00.
 * People's Bridge Night Market. On Haidian island connected by a bridge to the mainland, this area is 3 minute away from the Hainan University Night Market. It has a night market for cheap clothing and cheap food. In May 2011, you can have around 6-8 oysters (depending on their size) or 4 scallops for ¥10. Meat skewers start from ¥0.5 (mini sized one). ¥1 for grilled tofu and ¥3 for a grilled corn. Overcharging can often happen if you don't speak Chinese so compare the price first. Operates​ until 04:00.
 * Banqiao Road Local Restaurant Area This large covered outdoor restaurant area is a unique local experience. To begin with have a look around the integrated fresh food market and choose what you want. There is much to pick from; coconut rice to strange seafood to Cobra snakes. It’s all alive when you purchase so you know its fresh and half the fun is just looking at what’s available. Each set of tables has its own kitchen and the food is cooked however you want. Expect to pay ¥30-40 per person.
 * The area south of East Haixiu Road has a number of small streets with small local restaurants cooking the food out in the street and with tables both in and out. Expect to pay ¥20-30 per person.
 * Local street BBQ food (烧烤 shāokǎo) Popular with locals, these vendors come out in the evening and serve a variety of barbecued food. Choose what you want and take a seat while its cooked. Food is inexpensive and you can also buy cheap local beer. Locals eat, drink and play cards at these places until early morning. Many vendors can be found on Haidian Er East Rd (海甸二东路) on Haidian Island in the north of Haikou. Expect to pay ¥30-40 per person.

Drink
Haikou has a vibrant night life. The city has many clubs and bars, most of which are busy on any night of the week.

Night clubs
There are several clubs on Guomao Road in the business district of Haikou. There is a bar/club area at Haikou Bay, next to Evergreen Park.

Guo Mao District



Haikou Bay



Pubs and bars
Hai Dian Dao (Hai Dian Island)
 * Xuewu near Heping road on Haidiandao offers a decent outdoor environment and a pub style indoor area and night BBQ. The whole BBQ chickens are recommended by other travelers.
 * Heping Road on Haidian Island has many small outdoor places to drink inexpensive local beer.

Other

 * Drink a fresh coconut. Vendors will chop the top off the coconut and give you a straw to drink the juice inside. Costs ¥3-4. Available on most street corners. Some shops have cold coconuts in the fridge. Some people find the cold ones more refreshing.

Sleep

 * As in other Chinese cities you may check apps like ctrip for hotels in Haikou, see the pictures and visit the hotel to check the rooms in the spot.

Stay safe
Cars and motorbikes often do not signal, but otherwise are safe. At night, many vehicles use high beams.

Go next

 * Wenchang (文昌) is one of the provincial of Hainan Province in southern China and is located at the north-east coast of Hainan Island. Is the centre of Han settlement and the place where standard Hainanese is spoken. It is also one of the main sources of Hainanese migration overseas (Malaysia, Singapore & Thailand). It takes about 60 minutes by car from Haikou to Wenchang. A bus leaves from the East Bus Station (Haifu Rd.). It takes about 1 hour and costs ¥17/person. Buses leave 06:40-20:30 every 30 minutes. East Bus Station, Haifu dadao, opposite Wugongci (Wugong shrine). Telephone: 0898-65370453
 * Bo'ao (博鳌) is a small town on the east coast of Hainan Island, China. At the mouth of the Wanquan river Boao is best known for the annual Boao Forum for Asia. Because of this prestigious event the town is impeccably maintained year round with blooming planters and clean swept streets. It has a diverse selection of ethnic restaurants as well as one of the most well known seafood eateries on the island. Peaceful and quiet, Boao is the perfect place that combines international savvy with small town appeal. Dotted with ancient temples and surrounded by lush rice fields, Boao is the perfect beach getaway for those who want to avoid the crowds and high prices of Sanya. Take the bus from Haikou to QiongHai (¥35) then bus #2 to Boao.
 * Sanya, at the southern side of the island, is famous for its beaches and offers the best tourist facilities on the island. The bus journey to Sanya takes 3½ hours from Haikou and costs about ¥78. The high speed trains to Sanya are faster (2 hours), but a bit more expensive (around ¥100).
 * Central Mountains. You have not really seen Hainan if you do not visit the mountains. Largely undeveloped, very scenic.
 * There are sometimes tours to Vietnam and the Philippines, by boat out of Haikou. These are designed for Chinese rather than international tourists, so they tend to give good value for money but not Western comforts. Boats depart from Xiuying Port. As of December 2017, cruises were available to Halong Bay, Da Nang, and Nha Trang in Vietnam, and Manila and Laoag in the Philippines. Cruises are operated by Diamond Cruise (钻石国际邮轮公司).
 * Haikou is a major starting point to explore Hainan island by bicycle. Many travelers on bikes choose either track along the Western coast, the Eastern coast or the central island track, all leading to Hainan's southern city Sanya, or of course circle the island following the coast line.