Haddington

Haddington is a market town in East Lothian, 15 miles east of Edinburgh in central Scotland. It's the administrative centre of East Lothian council area, with a population of 10,360 in 2020.

Understand
"Haddington" means the farm where Hada's folk live. The name is Anglo-Saxon not Gaelic, as until the 10th century East Lothian and Edinburgh were ruled by Northumbria. The area is lowland, with well-drained bright red sandstone soil and bedrock, and it's astride the main transport route from England. When it was ceded to Scotland, Haddington became a Royal Burgh and developed as a market town, manufacturing cloth. In 1645 those who worked in the cloth mills were exempted from military service, so hiring became a whole lot easier. However this enterprise foundered in the 18th century and Haddington never became industrial as the villages on the coalfield to the west had long been. That meant its medieval street pattern was preserved, and modern developments have respected this. The town therefore retains a pleasant rural ambience while traffic scurries past just north on the A1.

Get in
Haddington is just off the A1. East Coast Bus X7 runs from Edinburgh to Haddington (50 min), East Linton and Dunbar, daily every 30 min.

East Coast Bus 104 runs from Edinburgh to Haddington via Musselburgh, Wallyford and Tranent. It runs daily every 30 min and takes an hour.

Night bus N106 runs after shortly midnight F Sa from Edinburgh to Musselburgh, Wallyford, Tranent, Macmerry, Haddington, East Linton and Dunbar.

Cyclists may not use A1, take the old road parallel, nowadays A199.

, opened in Dec 2023, has trains every hour or two from Newcastle, Berwick and Dunbar, heading for Edinburgh. It's a platform halt with ticket machines but no other facilities. Both platforms have step-free access.

four miles north of Haddington has hourly trains on the Edinburgh to North Berwick line. Bike-on-train from Edinburgh would work.

Get around
Eves Coaches Bus 121 runs from Haddington to North Berwick via East Fortune and Drem railway station, daily every couple of hours.

See

 * St Martin's Kirk is the scenic ruin of an 11th century Norman church. It's 100 yards east of the river.
 * is a ruin near East Linton. Built in the 13th century, it was partly demolished by Cromwell in the 17th, and is fenced off as unsafe.
 * is a ruin near East Linton. Built in the 13th century, it was partly demolished by Cromwell in the 17th, and is fenced off as unsafe.
 * is a ruin near East Linton. Built in the 13th century, it was partly demolished by Cromwell in the 17th, and is fenced off as unsafe.
 * is a crag 221m / 725ft high, where glaciers scooped away other rock leaving a scarp, a tail of debris and an easily defended site. On top was an oppidum or hill fort, occupied from at least 1500 BC. When the Romans arrived they found it occupied by the Votadini, who later decamped to the similarly-formed Castle Rock in Edinburgh. In 1919 a hoard of broken-up 5th century Roman silver was found here (now in the NMS, Edinburgh): it may have been sawn up to use as coinage.
 * is an Iron Age earthwork, circa 500 BC. A well-preserved system of ditches and ramparts protected a settlement.
 * is at East Fortune Airfield off B1347 three miles east of Haddington; bus 121 runs this way. See Gullane listing.
 * Aberlady Bay, five miles north, is a bird reserve.

Do

 * Golf: Haddington GC is half a mile east of town, white tees 6403 yards, par 71, visitor round £20.
 * is open daily Mar-Oct 10AM-5PM, Nov-Feb 10AM-4PM for tours (standard £10) and tastings. It's at Peastonbank EH34 5ET, off A6093 midway between Haddington and Dalkeith. They offer a shuttle service between Edinburgh Waterloo Place and Glenkinchie twice a day at 10AM and 1:30PM, £14 return, phone +44 1875 342012 to book.
 * Haddington Agricultural Show is held on East Fortune racing circuit northeast of the air museum. A shuttle bus runs from Haddington. The next show is probably Sa 6 July 2024, tbc.
 * Lammermuir Festival is classical music in Haddington, usually at St Mary's or Holy Trinity, and other venues across East Lothian. It's held in September.

Buy

 * Tesco a block north of town centre is open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 8AM-8PM.

Eat

 * Waterside Bistro across the footbridge is open daily 11AM-11PM.

Connect
As of July 2023, Haddington and its approach roads have 4G from O2, Three and Vodafone, and 5G from EE.

Go next

 * North to the sandy beaches of Gullane and harbour of North Berwick, for boat trips to Bass Rock.
 * West to Musselburgh for the races.
 * East to the historic fishing village of Dunbar and clifftops towards Eyemouth.