Granada (Nicaragua)

Granada is the oldest colonial city in Nicaragua and the all-time-rival of Leon. It is on the northwest side of the Lago Cocibolca. Its colored colonial buildings, interesting history and relative safety make it an important tourism destination. It is the city in Nicaragua with the largest presence of expats and one of the most developed for tourism compared to other cities in Nicaragua. Both these things will be immediately apparent to the visitor.

Understand
Granada, nicknamed La Gran Sultana after her Muslim-influenced namesake in Spain, was founded in 1524 and is the oldest cities of Nicaragua and the oldest European settlement in the Americas mainland that lasted (the only older cities are Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic and Panama, which moved afterwards). A rich town for most of the colonial period, Granada has always been and continues to be a conservative city. As a (sort of) "Caribbean port", connected to the ocean by the lake and the Rio San Juan, Granada was attacked by pirates several times in its early history. However the attack that left the biggest mark on the city was carried out by an American in 1856, when the city was burned down.

The town recovered however and became the dominating force culturally and politically for the next three decades until the liberal general Jose Santos Zelaya took control of the country. You can still see a lot of the wealth and power Granada once had in its colonial houses and churches. And there is still a monument for some former president or other who was born here at almost every corner downtown.

Granada still is very much a conservative town and the ruling Sandinistas are not as well liked here as they are in León, which contributes to their ongoing rivalry. But nowadays, Granada is also notable for winning awards in American magazines as supposedly one of the best places on earth to live, and many retired Gringos have made Granada their second home. Many colonial houses and even some small islets just out of town in Lake Nicaragua are still for sale, so ask the locals if you want to move here long term and have the necessary cash on hand.

Although the Gringo influence here is stronger than in most other places in Nicaragua, Granada has lost nothing of its charm and continues to attract tourists, locals and expats alike.

By plane
Fly to Managua International Airport and from there make your way by bus (every half hour from Mercado Huembes or the UCA station) or taxi (around US$35 from the airport depending on your bargaining skills). As an alternative, you can take an air conditioned shuttle for US$15 from the airport to Granada. In most cases, the shuttle will deliver you to any point in Granada. There is a tourist information counter as soon as you clear immigration. Ask the representative and s/he'll point you to a reputable shuttle service. The trip by taxi or shuttle is about 40 minutes. Another option may be to fly to the Liberia Airport over the border in Costa Rica, but it would involve about 5 hours of travel and a border crossing. Rental cars are not allowed to cross the border, but agencies will arrange for car swaps and pickups on the other side of the border. Managua is by far your best option.

The small Las Lajas Airport a few miles from Granada on the highway to Masaya does not have any commercial flights as of Oct 2020.

The airport on Ometepe receives domestic flights (from Managua, and from San Juan de Nicaragua (Greytown)  via San Carlos  twice a week (Su and Th) as of Oct 2020 on La Costeña Airlines (US$58 one-way).  There is a boat from there to Granada that takes roughly three hours.

By train
The train was shut down during the era of Violeta Chamorro (1990-1996). So, no, there's no possibility to take any train to get there. Nevertheless, you can have the chance to visit the old train station, which is used as a technical school sponsored by the Spanish Cooperation.

By car
Yes you can get there by rental car, which is often really expensive to hire, since imported cars are expensive too and the risk of theft is high. Most of the principal highways are in excellent condition, however other obstacles (cows, horses, people, people on horses) can surprise you - especially at night, so be alert. Secondary roads range from paved to gravel. The roads from the airport are excellent on the most direct route.

From Costa Rica, take the Panamerican Highway, which leads from San José through Liberia, the border crossing at Peñas Blancas, the first bigger town in Nicaragua is Rivas, after Nandaime take a right onto the Granada-Nandaime road. Look for Granada-related signs.

By bus
Buses from Managua to Granada leave from the UCA Terminal (C$37 (córdobas) and from Mercado Huembes as of May 2024. If you have oversized baggage you might be asked to pay an extra C$25) and Mercado Huembes on a very frequent basis The trip takes about 2 hours. There is no scheduled public transport that does the León-Granada run directly, so you'll have to change buses in Managua. If you take the chicken bus from Leon your last stop in Managua will be the Israel Lewites Terminal from where you will have to go to either the UCA Terminal or Mercado Huembes. Minibuses from Leon to Managua depart from the same location in Leon but terminate at the UCA Terminal so they might be a more convenient way to reach Granada as they lessen the need to change terminals in Managua. Granada can also be reached by first-class buses from neighboring Costa Rica and Honduras.

From Costa Rica
There are two main options, either take the ordinario buses which cost half the price (US$10) and fuzz your way through, experience a lot of interesting sights and the heat or hop on one of the (often agonizingly) air conditioned coaches, which are comfortable, take you there in about 8-10 hours (crossing the border might take a while, and you will have to exit the bus twice for passports and customs) and cost US$20. The best options going from Costa Rica to Nicaragua are Central Line, TransNica and Ticabus. Back from Granada to Costa Rica you might as well take the Tica Bus or NICABUS. Just ask any taxi driver in whatever city you are in to take you to the Nica or TICABUS-station.

From Honduras
From Tegucigalpa, you can also get the TICA bus, which leaves daily around 09:00 for Managua, for around US$20. Then take another bus (at a different station), or taxi, to Granada.

By boat
There's a boat running twice a week from San Carlos via Ometepe to Granada and back. It leaves San Carlos at Tuesday and Friday at 14:00. The trip to Ometepe takes about three hours. San Carlos-Granada is roughly 12 hours one-way. There is a ferry running between Granada and Ometepe, but as of July 2016 it was canceled until further notice, as the lake levels are too low. In general the ferry may be canceled due to low lake levels as well as storms, so enquire locally if possible.

Get around
Granada is a small city; everything can comfortably be reached by foot. For some outlying points (e.g., the Asese peninsula) taxis, coches and bikes come in handy.

By taxi
Local taxis work on set prices: C$10 by day, and at night after 9PM C$20 per person, wherever you go within the town's borders.

By bus
Buses (old stylish US or Canadian school buses) go just about everywhere at about every time, you see them and if you slightly look like anybody wanting to go anywhere, be sure they'll load you on their bus. Another option are the mini buses which have a bit more set time, they're more comfortable and also faster but cost a bit more. The buses leave either west of the Central Market building (50 m into Calle Yo Yo) or near the petrol station UNO. Just ask around, people are very friendly and tell you where you need to go. Also, many people know at least partially the timetables.

By coche
Horse-drawn carriages, known as coches, are a wonderful way to see the extent of the city limits. From the cemetery in the southwest, to the converted Rail Station in the north, to the water front in the east. US$30 for an hour and a half tour. They can also be hired just like taxis.

By boat
Granada's islets are not to be missed, and the way to see them is by boat. Boat tours leave from Puerto Asese, about 5-10 minutes from downtown by taxi. Try to book them as a group as it gets cheaper for each individual. Also a boat that is almost full might make special deals for a single traveler or a small group

By bike
Most hotels and hostels rent bikes and if yours doesn't, some are willing to rent to people staying elsewhere. You should pay roughly US$10 a day. As the city is rather flat and traffic is manageable it is a good way to get around, although the heat might get uncomfortable. Robberies and assaults at machete - point have happened along parts of península de Asese.

See


There are six main churches : the Cathedral, La Merced, Guadalupe, Xalteva, San Francisco and María Auxiliadora, which all have interesting historical backgrounds and are in very different states.




 * Fuerte La Polvora is an 18th-century fort (built in 1748) that's open for tours. A few historical exhibits are available on the main level, you can climb the towers for views of the quiet city streets, or wander through the lovely courtyard.
 * Lake Cocibolca (also known as Lake Nicaragua and, locally, as Lago de Granada), is the 10th largest fresh-water lake on earth and is inhabited by Bull Sharks, informally named the Nicaragua Shark, and sawfish. The beach area is not the safest area in town at night and comes with a rather unpleasant smell during the day. However, during the day this is a nice place to catch a breeze, and there are many Nicaraguan families that come here to pass the time. Vendors pass selling all kinds of food. Tours of the islands are available from Puerto Asese, near the pleasant Asese restaurant (known for its boneless fish).

A bit further along the shore is the Centro Turistico, a park like area complete with bars and restaurants. It's a bit cleaner then the beach right down from the city.


 * The local market is definitely worth a glimpse, it's chaotic little market stands where you can get almost everything. The market is open everyday except holidays around and in the old Market hall, you can't miss it.
 * The Central Park with the Cathedral and the Colonial houses surrounding it. The lively center of town with a lot of handicrafts or snacks to buy, or just sit down at a bench and watch the city and its people. Next to it is the Parque Independencia with a monument to the independence movement of 1811 and the famous "Puerta de los Leones".
 * The streets with their charming colored Colonial houses are always worth a wander themselves.
 * Take a boat tour of the Isletas. Boats leave from the marina at Puerto Asese. Your guide will tell you how all the islands are owned by millionaires. You will even visit an old fort that is on the island. Not to mention you will see adorable monkeys that live in the tree.

Do

 * Mombacho Beach Club. The heat in Nicaragua is hard to stand, so you'll love refreshing yourself in the 60-foot pool. On top of that, it's located in a gorgeous courtyard, with a bar and free WiFi. Enjoy a range of massages from aromatherapy to Shiatsu to ChocoTherapy, or just have a manicure, pedicure or facial.  Entry to pool US$5. Spa treatments  $9-28.
 * Rent a bike from Mapache on Calle Cisne, 2nd left off Calle La Calzada. You can bike the entire city in one day.
 * Go up the church tower at the Iglesia La Merced (US$1) and watch the sun go down over the bustling city.
 * Take a Canopy Tour, where you will go flying on cables through the rainforest trees on the side of Mombacho Volacano. (US$25)
 * Try interesting drinks at local market stands (such as cacao de leche, linseed drink or red beet drink, beware: often painfully sugary!).
 * Take a bus to Masaya and visit the local and giant hand craftmarket (good advice: better see the new than the old market, same stuff, half the price).
 * Get a very inexpensive table or seated massage at Seeing Hands Blind Massage, located in Computadoras de Granada, Calle 14 de Septiembre, 1/2c. south of the Firehall (Bomberos).and the other location they have is on Calle La Calzada before Guadulpe Church.
 * Visit the Mombacho volcano (that's the one next to Granada). There's a paved road all the way to the top and a tropical rain forest inside the crater. Allow several hours to walk inside the crater. There's a great view of Lake Nicaragua from the top.
 * You can also go to the Masaya Volcano reserve and watch over the wide land, see the Managua lake and maybe get some stinky smoke in your lungs and be happy about the beautiful nature surrounding the Volcano.
 * The Choo-Choo train There's that weird train that goes all around town, designed for kids, but hey, it's great fun: it plays the latest reggaeton-tunes over and over again and it only costs C$5. Hop on whenever you find it.
 * Casa de los Tres Mundos (Casa de los Leones),The Foundation "Casa de los Tres Mundos" is an institution created to initiate, support and promote cultural projects in Nicaragua and Central America. Besides these artistic, musical and educational activities, which emphasize support for the poorer segments of Nicaraguan society, the foundation finances and coordinates an integrative rural development project in Malacatoya.
 * Horse and carriages circle the city center.
 * Live music at Restaurant Imagine 1st left off Calle la Calzada, going towards the lake on Calle la Calzada from the Cathedral turn left first block (right after Cafe de Arte). One of the only places playing live classic rock (unplugged version) in the city. Live music starts at around 9PM almost every day of the week. Check the sign posted on the door daily to see who is playing. Very relaxed atmosphere and great food although a little bit pricey. No cover charge.

Learn
There are several Spanish language schools in Granada:

Casa Nica Spanish School is a cooperative of women that has been teaching Spanish since 1998. They tailor Spanish classes according to students' skill level and interests, and you also get to meet people at afternoon activities. They can also provide home-stay accommodations and connect you with their favorite local organizations if you want to volunteer.

One On One Tutoring Spanish School, One on One Tutoring Spanish school by Roger Ramirez On Calzada Street # 450 near to Guadalupe Church is the only Spanish school in Nicaragua that uses a unique teaching system where each student has four different instructors per day of class (the same four instructors for as long as the student stays at the school) if you decide to take 1-4 hours a day for five days or more. Having four instructors makes the course much more intensive and much less boring for the student. Open every day including holidays. +505 7678 9305

The local Red Cross school is also a good option to go to, because you can buy 1-on-1 Spanish lessons from them and so support them. For more options, look around for flyers.

Work
Volunteer opportunities abound. La Esperanza Granada is an organization that sends volunteers into local schools to help out, or supports women's working groups, built a community center, etc., for the impoverished outskirts of Granada. Volunteering is completely free of charge, minimum commitment is generally eight weeks but shorter stays are possible. Another volunteer option is Educación Plus de Nicaragua, a local NGO that educates and feeds children in the marginalized outskirts of Granada.

Buy
Granada is known around the world for its high-quality rocking chairs which can be seen all around town. The main vendors a bit out of town on the road to Masatepe.

If you want to go cheaper, there's the option to buy local and famous Nicaraguan pottery, which you can buy in town, but the better option is to go to San Juan de Oriente where there's a more varied selection and the experience of meeting the artisans.

Also very typical are the hammocks, there are several hammock stores and factories in Masaya, but you can find them made in Granada on Calle Xalteva, a half bloc west of the central park at Tio Antonio https://tioantonio.org/en/home/.

You can buy heaps of mangos at the market for about C$1 each.

Eat
There are many street vendors selling quesillos, tamales, revueltas, carne asada, and other local specialties such as gallo pinto (rice & beans), fried plantains, nacatamales, bajo (yucca, plantain, beef mix). Very inexpensive. The local specialty is Vigoron: cabbage, tomatoes, onions, and fried pork rind (or roast pork) on mashed yucca for C$40 from the kiosks in the parque central. Great value and taste (provided you are not a vegetarian).

Groceries
Granadans do most of their grocery shopping in the huge chaotic central market (along Calle El Comercio, aka Calle Atravesada, a few blocks south of downtown) or in a similarly chaotic Palí supermarket (same area).

Besides Palí, the city has two other supermarkets, cleaner, less crowded, and more upscale: La Union and La Colonia, which are next to each other in Calle La Inmaculada about a kilometer northwest of the central square. La Colonia is the more upscale of the two, with a better selection of products such as wine, ice cream, or exotic (to non-Nicaraguans) fruit. There is also a good bakery a block or two west of La Colonia (on the same, southern, side of the street). In 2018, La Colonia started selling their own baked bread - try their baguettes!

Drink
Great drinks can be purchased from local vendors at the corner in Parque Central, such as flaxseed drink, hibiscus (jamaica) iced-tea, or red beet drink or anything else, completely overloaded with sugar. Nice alternative: The local Cacao drink, milk and powdered chocolate beans, almost like chocolate milk, available in most cafes. Also Raspados made with crushed ice and raspberry syrup are very delicious and are usually sold by vendors around the Central Park.

And then of course, the local coffee! You have the biggest range: organic, shade grown, fair trade.... Here are a few bars worth mentioning:
 * Chichería París at the top of the Calle Real, across from La Pólvora fortress. Chicha and natural drinks.
 * Chichería París at the top of the Calle Real, across from La Pólvora fortress. Chicha and natural drinks.

Connect
Internet -- up to C$20/hour.

Stay safe
Nicaragua is rated the safest country in Central America. Granada, the sixth largest city, is very safe but using common sense and always walking with someone else at night here and everywhere else in the country is recommended.

Robberies are known to have occurred along the Peninsula de Asese. If you plan a tour keep your wits about you and maybe leave the camera in the hotel.

In Granada, the moneychangers are licensed and provide a terrific alternative to the banks.

Cope
Social workers in Granada strongly advise to not give money or food to begging children. In Granada the homeless situation is moderate. Orphanages and charity organizations take care of homeless children, and poor people have access to charity kitchens. The kids that beg and sell items to tourists do this to make easy money, and are being exploited by adults. Anything you give to these children keeps them from the place they belong: in school.

Occasionally inclement weather will create an outage, as you'd expect anywhere.

Urban tap water is fine.

Insect repellent is widely available in pharmacies and supermarkets. Use as required. Nicaragua does have dengue. This is especially a concern during the wet season. In the early morning, and at dusk cover up or spray on as a precaution against insects.

Go next

 * Masaya
 * Isla de Ometepe
 * Managua