Gori

Gori (Georgian: გორი) is a city in the Shida Kartli region of Georgia.

Understand
Gori is most famous for being the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. Today, surprisingly, it does not look much different from when Stalin ruled the USSR. Gori is a short drive from Uplistsikhe, an ancient Silk Road cave city and former regional center of pagan worship.

The name Gori may look and sound like the plural form of the Russian word for mountain (горы, GO-ry), but the name of Gori, incidentally meaning hill (singular) in Georgian, is much older than the first Russian contact with the Georgian kingdoms in the 1500s.



By marshrutka
From specific destinations:
 * Tbilisi – Many marshrutkas run daily between Tbilisi's Didube market and the central square of Gori. 5 lari.
 * Akhaltsikhe – 08:15, and 13:00. 2½ hr..
 * Borjomi – 08:30, and 12:40..

By taxi
A more expensive, yet still reasonable option, is to hire a taxi (in some areas you can find cheaper intercity taxis).

By train
Tbilisi-Kutaisi trains pass through Gori. The train leaves Tbilisi daily at 08:30 and 08:50. The tickets cost 7–12 lari. Booking in advance is strongly recommended. (updated Apr 2022)

On foot
Everything that a tourist would want to see, except for, is easily accessible on foot—the city center is compact.

By taxi
To get to the nearby Uplistsikhe complex, however, it is best to hire a taxi. Taxis are easy to find around the main square and drivers will be willing to wait for you while you explore the Uplistsikhe complex so that they can drive you back to Gori once you have finished. The whole taxi ride, including waiting, should not cost more than 25 lari and drivers will go as low as 15 lari if you are a hard bargainer.

By marshrutka
Public transport to the modern Uplistsikhe village is much cheaper at 1 lari each way. Buses go from Stalin Avenue. A train departs to Uplistsikhe village from Gori at around 10:00 and returns around 17:00. A bus also makes the trip, departing Gori's bus station once around 09:00 and again at noon, returning around 15:00. There are also the usual marshrutkas running from the main marshrutka dropoff by the stadium. Once in Uplistsikhe village it is a walk of 700 m across the bridge over the river to the Uplistsikhe complex.

By car
If you are driving, head south in Gori on Stalin Ave across the Mtkvari River and turn left on the second main cross-street (not the one running right along the river). This road will take you through the village of Khidistavi, where you should try to maintain a straight course, bearing to the left if at a fork, and past the village you should approach Uplistsikhe. If you are feeling lost, ask anyone for directions (try "sahd-ah-rees uu-plis-tsi-khe?") and they will point you right.

Stalin


The principal attractions (and the principal revenue earners) in the city are monuments to Stalin and they are all on or near the main square along Stalin Ave. Having visited Gori and not having seen the birthplace of Stalin is like going to Agra and not visiting the Taj Mahal.




 * The plaque which reads in both Russian and Georgian:
 * Here I.V. Stalin was born on 21
 * December 1879, and here he
 * spent his childhood until 1883.
 * spent his childhood until 1883.



Uplistsikhe


The Fortress of the Lord) is easily one of the oldest existing cities in Georgia, although it is now uninhabited save for tourists. Founded in the sixteenth century BC and carved out of rock, this was a bustling city over 3,000 years ago and was, before the introduction of Christianity in the 4th century, a major regional center of Caucasian pagan worship. After Saint Nino converted King Mirian II of Iberia, the pagan temples of Uplistsikhe were sacked and the city went into long-term decline. Its decline was hastened by devastation at the hands of the Mongols in the 12th century, although it remained inhabited, serving as a stop along the Silk Road until the 15th century.

Highlights include: a Hellenistic amphitheater overlooking the Mtkvari river where residents of Uplistsikhe once enjoyed Greek-style performances, a functioning 9th century church built atop the ruins of an ancient pagan temple to the Caucasian sun god, a once pillared seat of kings, and a fun cave tunnel leading out of the city to the riverside. There are round storage spaces that were used for wheat, and shelf-like spaces for medicinal herbs&mdash;a veritable Bronze Age pharmacy!

Uplistsikhe suffered long years of neglect and vandalism and is undergoing significant restoration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Accordingly, certain areas may be closed off from direct contact during your visit, although all sites will still be viewable.

Getting there/away: It should cost 10 lari to get a taxi one-way from Gori to the Uplistsikhe complex. Buses also go from Gori to Uplistsikhe village on the other side of the river, 700 m from the Uplistsikhe complex. These run fairly frequently and cost 1 lari. The bus from Gori leaves from the bus station. Ask someone which minibus to take (there is no English sign); you can ask in the ticket office. Getting a bus back to Gori is very simple (just walk along the main street of the village until you see a group of people waiting by the road, just near the point where it meets another road) but you may have to wait an hour or longer.

Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle)
Goris Tsikhe stands at the heart of the city atop a large hill and is the only structure in town that could dwarf the Stalin statue. According to locals, Goris Tsikhe's most notable moment in world history occurred in the first century BC, when it was conquered by the Roman General Pompeii. The current ruins are more recent, however, having been built after the Mongol invasion. There is not much to see inside the ruined castle's walls, but there are nice views of the city and the surrounding dark green plains of Shida Kartli. The approach to the ruins has been repaved and the surrounding area cleaned up, but the site remains free and the only price of admission is the short, steep walk up the path.

Gori Jvari (Gori Cross)


The church at Gori Jvari stands on an outcropping of rocks and can be seen from practically anywhere in Gori. Originally built in the 12th century, it was burned down by the Turks, rebuilt, and destroyed again by an earthquake in 1920. The current church was built in the 1980s. On days commemorating St. George (November 23 and April 23), Gori residents flock to the church with sacrificial sheep. The sheep are walked around the church three times, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition, are taken just off the church grounds for slaughter. On a clear day, the view of the Caucasus from the church is spectacular.

The moderate hike is a 3-hr round trip. To reach the trail head, walk south along Stalin Avenue until you cross the river. The road will cut to the right and then cross the railway tracks. On the other side of the tracks, turn right then take the first left and then the windy path up the hill that is immediately on your right. This twists up the hill. If you find a graveyard on your left, you are going in the right direction. There are more hiking options along the mountain ridge above Gori Jvari and there a number of ruined churches scattered through the area.

Buy
There are many shops in Gori where tourists can find Georgian crafts and gifts more cheaply than in Tbilisi. The Stalin Museum offers a few kitschy souvenirs in its main lobby. Small shops are also popping up in the city center. One good bet is the underground pedestrian tunnel below Stalin Square. Shop No. 14 in the underground offers a variety of handmade Georgian crafts made by local street children at a Gori-based NGO.

Icons and other religious paraphernalia can be purchased at the shop beside the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin. These can make for interesting gifts. Shops along Chavchavadze Street (running perpendicular to Stalin Avenue) also sell Georgian jewelry and icons.

Along Stalin Ave. several late night stores sell essentials and foodstuffs.



Eat




Drink
There is not much nightlife in Gori and the bars and restaurants are basically one and the same. Almost all the restaurants listed above offer Russian and Georgian beers as well as Georgian wines of varying quality. One standout is Orbi's Restaurant, which offers a local brew for 70 tetri a pint. In the summer, beer tents pop up around town and offer the usual selection. But to really enjoy a summer evening in Gori, it's best to buy a bottle of beer or wine at a store and join the crowds of young people at the birzhas by the Stalin Museum and Stalin Park. Some of the nicer stores in town are beginning to offer imported beers, but be sure to check the expiration date on the bottle.

Sleep
Gori is only about an hour away from Tbilisi by marshrutka, so it is possible to visit Gori and Uplistsikhe as a day trip. There are not many commercial opportunities for overnight stays, though the options are improving. Staying in Gori does present a cheaper alternative to Tbilisi, and can be a pleasant change of pace from the capital.



Respect
The people of Gori respect and honour Stalin, and one should avoid offending them in how they talk about him, regardless of their personal feelings. Gori is a small, poor city and its residents really do not want to listen to foreigners attacking their heritage. The removal of the Stalin statue in the town's main square under Georgia's de-communization laws is a sensitive issue that was opposed by most of the town's residents.

Visitors to local churches should respect Orthodox customs. Women should wear longer skirts and cover their head (either with a hat or with a head scarf). Some churches will provide this for you. Foreigners are generally welcomed, but be mindful of those worshipping.

Stay safe
Outside the museum, taxi drivers hustle for tours to Uplistsikhe&mdash;avoid them!

Go next
Taxis are most easily requested by phone (# is written on taxis, 0.6 lari/km). They're also hailed by approaching bored looking men sitting in cars around the city; if you have any trouble, just ask anyone, "Sahd ah-rees tahk-see?" and they will get you a ride (picking taxi on a street costs extra 1 lari). Marshrutkas back to Tbilisi take off approximately every half-hour from Gori's bus station located beside the central bazaar (3.50 lari for bus, 4 lari for marshrutka; 1½ hr). If you've missed the Tbilisi-bound marshrutkas ask for taxi vans near theatre (Tsabadze st.) or near VTB bank. Expect to wait for 3-5 passengers to fill van, price - 5 lari (1 hr drive). To reach highway you have to use taxi. Taxi rides from the center to the highway generally cost 2 lari; alternately, you can stop city marshrutkas Nos. 6 or 24 along Chavchavadze Street and ride to the highway for 40 tetri.

If you're traveling west, there are daily direct buses and marshrutkas to Kutaisi, Borjomi, and Batumi. Timetables are posted in the bus station. All westbound vehicles pass through the transport hub in Khashuri, so you can take a marshrutka to Khashuri departing every half hour (2 lari, 1 hr) and transfer to another one from there. The Tbilisi-Batumi night train (15-25 lari to Batumi, 7 hr) passes through Gori at 23:30. Tickets can be purchased only one hour in advance, so be sure to show up to the train station early.

There are also other trains going throughout the day, although not much. Locals generally do not know of the existence of these trains and information is difficult to come by. As of September 14 (a Friday), a stop train to Kutaisi departed from Gori at 16:30 for 1 lari, and arrived around 21:00 in Kutaisi (roughly 40 stops in between, very slow and hard plastic seats. Okay scenery). On this particular Friday there were also trains to Borjomi (17:51), Poti (18:46) and Tbilisi (19:17). More trains are available, although sparsely and again there are very slow.

Additionally there are hourly north-bound buses during the day from the main bus station to the villages north of Gori on the road to Tskhinvali, the capital of South Ossetia. However, since the South Ossetian conflict in August 2008, crossing the border is impossible except for a few locals in the border area, and there may be security concerns in the area around the border.