Girona

Girona is the chief city of Província de Girona in Catalonia, northeast Spain. In Castilian Spanish it's called Gerona, but this page uses Catalan spellings. In 2023 the city had a population of 104,320, with about another 50,000 in the adjoining town of Salt.

The city is astride trade and pilgrimage routes from France into Spain, and pilgrimage traffic is as strong as ever: "But we're nowhere near Barcelona!" is the plaintive cry of sun-seekers who boarded a flight to a place that Ryanair called Barcelona-Girona. It's actually less than 100 km, the transfer bus will be along any minute, and for beach resorts along the Costa Brava, Girona is the closest airport. But it would be a mistake to rush away to those places and fail to explore this fascinating ancient city, with its cathedral, walls and higgledy-piggledy medieval streets ranged upon the hillside.

Understand
Girona is at the confluence of the Ter, Onyar, Galligants and Güell rivers, so transport routes across Catalonia are focussed here. It was the Roman city of Gerunda, astride their cross-country road to Cádiz. It was captured by the Moors in 715 AD but reconquered by the Holy Roman Empire in 785, though it suffered a century of destructive further attacks. So like other northern towns, Girona doesn't have the Moorish heritage seen in Andalucia, which they held for another 700 years. It did however acquire a large Jewish population, until they were expelled from Spain in 1492. From the 17th to 19th centuries it was repeatedly assaulted from France, but this ended with the defeat of Napoleon. Its city walls were then taken down on the west side, but have been retained on the east side around Old Town (Barri Vell) and the university.

Town centre is along the Onyar river, with Old Town on the east bank; the Onyar then joins the larger Ter, swinging north towards the coast. C de Calderers is the main thoroughfare on this bank. New Town is west and south, a 19th-century grid with the majority of shops, hotels and restaurants, plus the railway and bus stations.

Girona is an all-year destination but in winter can suffer cold winds from the mountains, with temperatures sometimes below −5 °C (23 °F), and frequent rain. In summer temperatures often soar to 30–40 °C (86–104 °F), and citizens escape to the coast whenever they can.

By plane
To town: Sagalés Bus 607 runs at irregular hours to meet the flights, taking 30 min to the bus station. Bus 602 from Barcelona Airport/Barcelona/Aeroport de Girona/Girona/Figures also stops here. It's the same ticket for either (€2.60 in 2024), buy from the kiosk by the bus stops.

By train
Four high speed international trains per day run from Barcelona Sants (one starting from Madrid via Zaragoza), taking 40 min non-stop to Girona. They continue north to Figueres, Perpignan and Narbonne, then fan out to Paris, Lyon and Marseille. Reservations are compulsory.

AVE fast domestic trains run every 30 min from Barcelona Sants, taking 40 min non-stop to Girona and continuing to Figueres.

Rodalies are the regional trains. runs hourly from Barcelona Sants taking 90 min, then continues north via Figueres and multiple other stops to Portbou and Cerbère across the border. Until the high speed line opened in 2010 this was the railway route from France (Salvador Dalí painted a typically surreal impression of the journey) and you can still come this way.

By bus
The bus station is underground within the high-speed part of the railway station. One overnight Flixbus runs from Barcelona to Girona, and continues to Béziers, Montpellier, Nîmes and Lyon - change there for Paris. Their buses from Madrid and further south don't stop in Girona.

Blablacar is a ride-share system from other cities.

Sagalés is the main bus line within Catalonia. Bus 602 runs three times a day from Barcelona El Prat Airport T1 and T2 to Barcelona bus station, Girona Airport and town (2 hr 30 min) and continues to Figueres.

Bus 601 runs from Blanes every hour or two, taking 70 minutes.

Bus e4 663 runs from Lloret de Mar every 30 min, taking 40 minutes.

By road
From France follow A9 / E15 south past Narbonne, Perpignan and Figueres.

From Barcelona follow E15 north.

Car hire is available at the airport and by the railway station.

By foot
Walk both Old Town and New Town west of the river are compact and mostly pedestrianized. In Old Town, expect gradients, lumpy cobblestones and steep stairs.

Don't take a car into the old streets, you'll need a tin opener to get it out again.

By bus
Buses have nine local lines:
 * L1 is north–south from Montjuïc to Devesa Park, railway & bus station, Migdia and Avellaneda.
 * L2 is north–south from Josep Trueta Hospital to Devesa Park then as L1.
 * L5 is north–south from Germans-Sabat to Devesa Park, Salt and Aiguaviva.
 * L7 is east–west from Torre Gironella to Hospital Santa Caterina.
 * L8 is from the railway & bus station, and L9 from Salt, and L11 from Güell, all heading south to the university Centre and Montilivi campuses.
 * L10 is south from the railway & bus station to Fornells.
 * L12 loops town from Josep Trueta Hospital to Av Ramon Folch and the cathedral to Sant Daniel.

By bicycle
There are many well-signed bicycle trails in and around the city. See "Buy" for the bike shop near Plaza de Catalunya.

Girocleta is the bike-share service, based at the bus station.

See

 * is an exhibition space at C dels Ciutadans 19.
 * is referred to a "castle", but it's simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of town and gardens below.
 * is an exhibition space at C dels Ciutadans 19.
 * is referred to a "castle", but it's simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of town and gardens below.
 * is an exhibition space at C dels Ciutadans 19.
 * is referred to a "castle", but it's simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of town and gardens below.
 * is an exhibition space at C dels Ciutadans 19.
 * is referred to a "castle", but it's simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of town and gardens below.
 * is an exhibition space at C dels Ciutadans 19.
 * is referred to a "castle", but it's simply a watchtower at the highest point of the city walls, with a good view of town and gardens below.
 * City walls sweep round in an arc from the Faculty of Law to the south, Torre Gironella and Torre de Sant Domènec midway, and Monestir de Sant Pere de Galligants to the north. You can walk along them.
 * spans the Onyar River, a metal lattice pedestrian bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel. It gives a good view of the houses huddled along it. In summer the river dries to a smelly trickle.
 * is the focal point of New Town west of the river, lined by restaurants and bars.
 * Santa Susanna del Mercadal is a parish church on C de l'Obra opposite the Cinema Museum. It's Gothic from around 1600, but almost completely rebuilt in 1940.
 * near the river confluence is wooded and crossed by cycle and walking paths.
 * near the river confluence is wooded and crossed by cycle and walking paths.

Further out

 * is the crumbling remnants of a fortress, built from 1653 to keep the French at bay but no match for Napoleon, and abandoned after 1814. As in Barcelona, "Montjuïc" means "Hill of the Jews" and was their cemetery; their homes and businesses were on "The Call", C de la Força near the cathedral. After they were expelled in 1492 most of the tombstones were pilfered for masonry but several survive in museums. The cemetery was forgotten until the railway drilled through in 1862 and there's nothing to see of it now. The hill was declared a "green zone" in 1955 but became a squatters' shanty town, until 1971 when the squatters also were expelled and the area turned into residential suburbs. You'd only come up here for the view, take Bus L1.
 * is a sturdy well-preserved fortress with two distinctive towers, mostly built from 1495. It's now a private mansion and you can't even see the exterior, as it's screened from the street by other buildings and woodland.
 * is a ruined bastion in the hills 5 km east of town, a pleasant hike.
 * is a broad eastern area of protected hill country, dotted with other ruins.
 * in Púbol was the quirky residence of Salvador Dalí and his wife Gala, a converted castle that's now a museum.

Do

 * Football:
 * Golf: there are 3 pitch & putts around town. The nearest full courses are at Sant Feliu de Guíxols on the coast, as Golf Girona has closed down.
 * Long distance bicycle routes crossing the city are the Pirinexus, Ruta del Carrilet d'Olot and Via Augusta.
 * Catalan Way of St. James is one of several pilgrimage routes converging on Santiago de Compostela. The local sections are from Bàscara via Orriols, Viladasens, Cervià de Ter, Medinyà and Sarrià de Ter to Girona (33 km, 8 hours), then onward to Bescanó, St Julià Llor i Bonmatí, Anglès, La Cellera de Ter, El Pasteral and Amer (27 km, 8 hours).
 * Semana Santa, Holy Week, is between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday. There are many religious processions and ceremonies, and the city is booked up while it's on.

Buy

 * Supermarkets are south of Old Town, where there's more chance of delivery vans getting in and out. Spar is at Ciutadans 15 near the Jewish Museum (open daily), and Novavende is at Hortes 18 near the Cinema Museum (M-Sa).
 * Flea Market is on Saturday on the riverbank north side of Devesa Park.

Eat

 * Plaça Independencia and Rambla de la Lliberitat by the cathedral are touristy, with bland overpriced food.

Mid-range

 * Taj Bangla is next door at Cort-Reial 6, open 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00.
 * Taj Bangla is next door at Cort-Reial 6, open 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00.
 * Taj Bangla is next door at Cort-Reial 6, open 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00.
 * Taj Bangla is next door at Cort-Reial 6, open 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00.

Drink

 * Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.
 * Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.
 * Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.
 * Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.
 * Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.
 * Wine: Girona is within Empordà DO (Denominación de Origen), which is subdivided into upper (Alt Empordà towards the French border) and lower (Baix Empordà towards the coast). Some two dozen grape varieties are cultivated, and the region also produces cava.

Stay safe
Take usual caution over traffic, care of valuables, and avoiding rowdy drunks.

Connect
As of Jan 2024, Girona and its approach highways have 5G from all Spanish carriers.

Go next

 * Barcelona – An hour to the south by train and the capital of Catalonia with an endless list of things to see and do.
 * Costa Brava – Rocky cliffs and a mix of pebble beaches and sandy beaches at Blanes, Cadaqués, and Tossa de Mar. Sant Feliu de Guíxols and L'Estartit are particularly easy to get to/from via bus from Girona's main bus station (under the train station).
 * Girona Pyrenees – Monumental mountain towns, skiing resorts and la Garrotxa volcanoes.