Genoa

Genoa (Italian: Genova, Ligurian: Zena) is a historic port city in northern Italy, the capital of the Liguria region. As a tourist attraction, it is often overshadowed by cities such as Rome or Venice, even though it has a long history as a rich and powerful trade centre. However, with its multitude of hidden gems behind cozy alleyways, excellent cuisine (notably fish and seafood), renovated old port, beautiful sights (including one of Europe's biggest aquariums), and its position as the European Capital of Culture in 2004, the birthplace of explorer Christopher Columbus (Cristoforo Colombo) is an enticing place which is gradually becoming more included in the tourism market. With its profusion of slate-roofed houses, lovely seaside villas, and several luxurious boutiques, Genoa is a must-see if you want to experience the quintessential Italy.

Understand
When visiting northwestern Italy (Milan, Turin) it is absolutely worth staying for a couple of days or a weekend in Genoa. The city is a good base to explore the Italian Riviera and world-famous places like Portofino and the Cinque Terre.

"Among the marvels of Italy, it will take some digging to find the beauties of Genova, but it is worth visiting it. I remember walking there with a friend, when she suddenly said: 'Let’s stop for a bit. I can’t stand this orange color!'"

- Paolo Coelho, Brazilian lyricist and novelist

Genoa is a place where you discover daily new surprises, even if you stay for years.

The city may be less known by major tourist operators, but its splendor is often hidden inside the narrow streets of the historical center, called "vicoli".

Genoa is a sort of decayed glorious port town, whose decay, however, is what makes it so interesting and pretty. The façades of grand palaces are hidden in scruffy, yet enticing alleyways, and there are really curious treats for anyone in virtually every alley. The city is your "typical" Italian one - quite sunny (during summer), with Mediterranean-looking houses topped by slate roofs, filled to the brim with outdoor cafes and bars, with lots of tiny and quirky alleyways, elegant designer shops, and restaurants. Today, also, the old port has been renovated, and has some funky avant-garde modern architecture, a delightful marina, and several seaside bars and shops.

By train
It is easy to travel to Genoa by train from Milan, Turin, Rome, Tuscany (Pisa, Livorno and Florence (changing train in Pisa or Viareggio)) and France (changing train in Ventimiglia). There are regular InterCity trains of Trenitalia every 1-2 hours per direction with regional trains running every 20-60 minutes in all directions.

A direct ÖBB Nightjet night train runs several times a week from Munich and Vienna, taking 14 hr 20 min via Klagenfurt, Villach, Padua, Vicenza, Verona Porta Nuova and Milan Rogoredo to Genoa Piazza Principe, and continuing to La Spezia.

There are two main train stations in Genoa. serves most local routes and provides access to many bus lines. serves local and long-distance trains, and some trains from Milan and beyond will only stop at this station.

By car
Coming from Milan you can reach Genoa via the A7-E62 (approx. 145 km). Mind though that the last part, from Serravalle to Genoa, is incredibly twisty, making you wonder if you’re still on the highway or accidentally have taken a wrong turn into a motordrome. It’s therefore advisable to take an alternative route, turning off the A7 at the deviation near Tortona and heading on the A26/A7, following Genova, Ventimiglia, Savona, Voltri; making it a longer (+20 km), but certainly safer and more comfortable trip, unless you want to spice up you journey and observe how (some) Italians drive. The same highway is less twisty northbound (leaving Genoa).

Coming from Turin, you can either take the A6/E717 to Savona (137 km) and then go to Genoa following the beautiful, but twisty A10 coast highway (another 45 km), or follow the Genova Piacenza indications you'll find on the ringroad heading south. This latter is the shorter alternative (170 km total), but offers fewer sightseeing opportunities.

Coming from the French Riviera, follow highway A10 and enjoy the sights (approx 160 km from the French border). If you're tempted to avoid the toll roads, be aware that it will take you at least three or four times as long, although you might get better views. The Morandi bridge on the A10 that dramatically collapsed in 2018 has been replaced with a new bridge.

Coming from Tuscany, you can take the A12 from Rosignano to Genoa. From November 1 to March 31 you must have snow chains on board between the gates of Carrodano and Sestri Levante, even though snow is seldom a problem here.

By bus
Genoa can be reached via Flixbus coach from many European countries. Long distance buses also run from Nice.

By boat

 * And see Ferries in the Mediterranean

has ferries from Barcelona (Grandi Navi Veloci, daily, 18 hours), Tangier (Grandi Navi Veloci, weekly, 46 hours), Valletta on Malta, Bastia on Corsica, Olbia and Porto Torres on Sardinia, Palermo on Sicily, and Tunis.

By car
Locals will say driving around the city is somewhat faster than public transportation (traffic jams at rush hours notwithstanding), but once you have reached your destination you are faced with the nightmare and frustration of looking for a nonexistent parking spot. It is not just chance that most locals switched from cars to scooters - to the extent that even finding a spot for a scooter has become difficult too. All attractions within the center are in walking distance or well served by public transportation, therefore a car is of no use at all. If you still decide to drive into the city, don't bet on available street parking (there are street parking fees anyway) go directly to a parking garage and hope not all of them are full. If you think of driving to the beach on a sunny weekend day within Genoa or in another town along the coast, forget it. Finding a parking spot in walking distance to your beach is a once-in-a-lifetime event. Use public transit instead.

Public transportation
Public transportation will probably be your best bet within the city. The bus network is operated by AMT and services the whole city until 01:00. Be sure to check the routes and timetables you need because the system can be somewhat confusing, e.g. some routes only travel at certain times and are replaced by other similar ones with different numbers at those times. There is also an underground line connecting the main square, piazza De Ferrari, with the northwestern neighborhood of Rivarolo, serving the historical center, the Porto Antico tourist area, the Stazione Principe main train station and the ferry terminal at Dinegro along the route. As is common in Italy, tickets are not sold on board (except at night or on Sundays, then at an increased price); you need to buy your ticket before boarding the bus at a newspaper kiosk or a tobacconist's or an underground station, and validate it at a punching machine once you have boarded the bus. Single tickets cost €1.60 and are valid for 100 minutes after validation for an unlimited number of travels in any direction. A daily pass costs €4.50, while a group daily pass valid for 4 persons costs €9.00. Those passes must be validated at the beginning of your first ride. If you have to catch a bus early in the morning or at late hours when the tobacconist shops are not open you should have a local cell phone. Tickets via SMS You need to send a text message with "AMT" to 48 50 209 and you will be charged €1.50. The response message is the ticket, which is valid for 110 minutes. AMT also has iOS and Android apps through which tickets can be bought.

There are also a number of public elevators and cable railways connecting the center with the neighborhoods on the surrounding hills. The upper stations of the Ascensore di Castelletto elevator and of the Funicolare del righi railway offer an astonishing view of the city.

Trenitalia suburban and regional trains travel in east-west direction along the coast connecting all the coastal neighborhoods/suburbs with the city center. This is the most convenient means of transportation if you plan to see some peripheral districts or towns along the coastline. AMT tickets and passes are valid on Trenitalia trains within the city limits (Voltri and Nervi); single tickets only allow one train ride, and you must validate them again at the yellow punching machines at the stations - check for the correct validating space with the name "Trenitalia" on the back side of the ticket. If you are travelling outside the city limits to visit some outer towns, you will have to buy a ticket at a Trenitalia counter or machine. It is advisable to buy return tickets right away because there are usually no ticket counters at minor stations and chances are good that the ticket machines there won't work, turning buying a ticket (or discussing with the conductor on the return train) into a hassle.

The historic center of Genoa is serviced by bus only around some important squares and streets (Piazza Acquaverde for Stazione di Piazza Principe, Piazza della Nunziata, Largo Zecca, Piazza Corvetto, Piazza Caricamento). Its caruggi alleys are so narrow that no vehicular traffic is physically possible, and they have to be visited on foot - distances are definitely not huge anyway.

By boat
AMT also operates a public boat service called Navebus (see timetable) connecting the Porto Antico to Pegli. It is a great and cheap way to have a look at the city from the sea; once in Pegli, you can visit the Villa Pallavicini public park.

Private boat services start from the Porto Antico and travel along the coast to Camogli, San Fruttuoso, Portofino, Chiavari and the Cinqueterre.

Old City
Genoa has one of Europe’s largest preserved historical centers, made up of an incredible number of tiny streets and alleys called Caruggi. Walking through it will plunk you right back to olden times when Genoa was the most important harbor of the Mediterranean sea.


 * The impressive fortification belt built on the hills surrounding the city, originating in the 16th Century.
 * Some similar buildings are also found in Via Balbi.
 * A lot of beautiful churches, some of which date back to the Romanesque time (San Giovanni di Pre', San Donato, Santa Maria del Castello)
 * Some similar buildings are also found in Via Balbi.
 * A lot of beautiful churches, some of which date back to the Romanesque time (San Giovanni di Pre', San Donato, Santa Maria del Castello)
 * A lot of beautiful churches, some of which date back to the Romanesque time (San Giovanni di Pre', San Donato, Santa Maria del Castello)
 * A lot of beautiful churches, some of which date back to the Romanesque time (San Giovanni di Pre', San Donato, Santa Maria del Castello)
 * A lot of beautiful churches, some of which date back to the Romanesque time (San Giovanni di Pre', San Donato, Santa Maria del Castello)

Museums in Nervi
The eastern suburb of Nervi hosts four small art museums around a pleasant park overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

A combined ticket for three or four museums costs €10, two museums €8.

Trains leave from Genoa Piazza Principe station every 15-40 minutes, and take 40 minutes to make the trip (€1.30 one way, Nov 2019).

Do
There are plenty of things to do in Genoa, although it is very advisable to visit in spring and summer. A lot of young kids spend their time playing with their friends in Parks found within certain antique Villas, some of them are also museums (i.e. Villa di Negro- oriental arts museum Edoardo Chiossone). Go for ice cream along the beaches and beach promenades. There are a lot of paintings in the town and on the brick floors which a lot of people admire. Fishing for catfish is also a hobby you might enjoy.

Via XX (venti) Settembre - Via San Vincenzo
Genoa's main street Via XX settembre, is filled with cafes and high street fashion shops. Start from Brignole station and head towards Piazza De Ferrari. Via San Vincenzo, another popular shopping destination, runs parallel to Via Venti (as the Genoese call it) from Brignole.

De Ferrari - San Lorenzo/Centro Storico
De Ferrari square lies in the heart of the city, surrounded by the Carlo Felice theatre, and Palazzo Ducale. Head towards Via San Lorenzo and get lost inside the Centro Storico. A bustling net of alleyways that gains its character from being close to the port and as such is a melting pot of cultures. You can breathe the Sea air and the port of a once-strong maritime republic.

It is full of bars, shops, antique barbers (va canneto il lungo), butchers and restaurants. Get lost! (though you might want to take a map because you could get lost.)

On Friday and Saturday nights, these alleyways fill up with people, excellent for bar crawling and living the night. Find its many chupiterias, to get speciality shots or find smaller more rustic birrerias. Occasionally you can find live bands on the streets or in many of the bars, especially by Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Luzzati.

Passeggiata Lungo mare Corso Italia - Boccadasse, Santa Chiara
Take a walk along Corso Italia on a sunny day, this promenade along the sea is a must for the outdoor season. Suited for runners, roller blades, it also has a skate park, Giardini Govi, along its way. Just head south from Brignole Bus Station, along Viale Bisagno Brigate and then turn left, there the promenade begins.

At the end of Corso Italia, there is a church and going down towards the sea you reach Bocadasse, a small beach surrounded by ice cream shops, little boutiques, and restaurants, with terraces over the sea. Adventure yourself along the "creuzäs", (small alley) ways to discover its villas and hidden coves.

Monte Righi - Castello Sperone
Genoa is surrounded by hills, which have fortresses built under Napoleonic rule, to defend the city. You can reach this summit of the hill Righi by taking the funicular at Largo Zecca. From then on you may walk along the woods and access a bird's eye view of the city and its port. It's quite a walk, but well worth it.

Parco di Nervi
Nervi is the last neighborhood heading towards levante (east), get here quickly by taking bus number 15 or one of the frequent trains. Here lies an immense park that lies just above cliffs on the sea. It has a sea level promenade and another part of the park which extend towards the hills. There are a few small lakes hidden within the park.


 * Football: Genoa CFC were promoted in 2023 and now play soccer in Serie A, Italy's top tier. Their home ground Stadio Luigi Ferraris (capacity 36,500) is 2 km northeast of city centre.
 * UC Sampdoria were relegated in 2023 so they play in Serie B, also at Stadio Luigi Ferraris.

Learn
Italian Language classes Lingua Madre Cultural Association [mailto:info@linguamadre.it].Lingua Madre offers a wide range of courses, in a friendly atmosphere, where you can quickly learn Italian and make new friends.

Italian language courses organised by Scuola Tricolore. Whether you are interested in group or individual courses, in the morning, afternoon or evening, Scuola Tricolore offers high quality tuition and for those interested accommodation and leisure activities. Courses available in the morning, afternoon and evening.

Italian Language School A Door to Italy - You can ask for private teachers and personalized lessons even outside of the school facilities.

Buy
Genoa is great for shopping. You have the designer boutiques, department stores, food shops, and antique dealers.

Downtown, for those who want luxury boutique browsing, you can find some world class fashion-related shopping along Via XX Settembre, starting from Piazza Ferrari.

There are a lot of small, picturesque and tourism-related shops in the centre. These are mainly in the central squares and the small alleways. You can find souvenir stalls, kiosks selling books and snacks, sailor-themed stalls, traditional flea markets, modern and antique furniture dealers, little bookstores and tiny art galleries.

There is a large shopping center called Fiumara located near Genova Sampierdarena train station. To reach Fiumara, take a local train to Genova Sampierdarena station and exit the station. Turn left and go under a bridge, near which there is a sign to the left for Fiumara. The shopping center is visible from the other side of the bridge and is about 10 minutes walk. The mall can also be reached by car or bus routes 1, 2, 4 and 22. The mall is open daily 09:00-21:00. Nearby there is a theater and activity center which includes a pool hall, bowling alley and restaurants.

Eat
The vast majority of places charge service for a fixed amount per person (called coperto), as is customary in Italy. A trattoria, cafe or bar will not charge this fee for lunch, and this is often a good place to get pasta or a sandwich in the afternoon. Restaurants are open from approximately 12:30 - 15:00 for lunch and 19:30 - 22:00 for dinner.

Pesto sauce originates from the city of Genova. It is used in many dishes, including pastas and pizzas.

Another must try from the Genovese or Ligurian cuisine is focaccia, which is a flat oven-baked Italian bread that may be topped with onions, herbs, or other foodstuffs. Focaccie are quite tasty and often cheaper than pizzas. There are many 'focaccerie' scattered throughout Genova and its surroundings. These are basically take away places, and easy on the wallet, too. In many of the focaccerie, you will find improvised varieties of focaccie, but usually, the best tasting ones come with only tomatoes or onions and a bit of olive oil. The original "focaccia" is simply topped with olive oil, salt and a little bit of white wine

Don't miss a chance to try farinata, a thin crusty pie made with chickpea flour, water, salt, and olive oil.

Drink

 * Piazza delle Erbe: small square in the old town, with nice bars (5 min. walking from Piazza De Ferrari and Palazzo Ducale) open until 01:00. On Fridays and Saturdays it is crowded with young people.

Area of Porto Antico. Down of piazza Caricamento and close to the Bigo there is a float restaurant with the nose of it being a night bar, with sometimes offering live music. Wide wood chairs to relax and see the sea in summer.

Budget

 * Albergo Parigi, 72 Via di Pre. Cheap and basic and close to Genova P. Principe station. €40 per room.

Splurge

 * Hotel Romantik Pagoda.
 * AC Hotel Genova.
 * Hotel Romantik Pagoda.
 * AC Hotel Genova.
 * Hotel Romantik Pagoda.
 * AC Hotel Genova.

Crime
Streets in Genoa are usually quite safe, especially in the main tourist areas and residential areas. Downtown, Quarto dei Mille, Quinto del Mare and Nervi are all safe districts during the day as well as the evening.

However, some limited areas in the historical centre off the main alleys might be subject to petty crime or just be uncomfortable for the general tourist (e.g. prostitutes waiting for clients in the middle of the day in dark side alleys just a couple of blocks away from a tourist attraction). Especially north of Piazza Caricamento/via Banchi/via Luccoli, around the Via Pré and in the Stazione Principe area, it is advisable to exercise extra caution and follow your common sense, e.g. avoid walking into narrower, darker, deserted alleys off the main paths unless you know where you are going. Pay special attention to your surroundings, avoid displaying flashy items and do not carry large amounts of cash or valuables.

Muggings or violence towards tourists are practically unheard of, however deft pickpockets are not. Be particularly careful in the via San Lorenzo/via San Bernardo/via San Donato area (which is a popular and very crowded nightlife zone for students and young people) and also on city buses.

Traffic
When walking, you should not expect motorists (especially scooters and bikers) to be particularly disciplined. At unsignaled crosswalks, you might need to insist on your right of way by just starting to cross the road (with caution!), as Italian pedestrians normally do, rather than waiting for motorists to stop. If a car, van or truck has stopped to let you cross, be very careful and always assume there might be a scooter passing that vehicle at high speed without seeing you.

Beaches
Virtually all beaches in Genoa and surroundings are made of cobbles, rocks and cliffs. The sea floor is normally very steep and you won't be able to touch the ground just some meters away from the shore, hence beware if your swimming skills are not good. When bathing, be extremely cautious as stones under water are mostly covered with vegetation and very slippery. Avoid bathing at all if the sea is not calm: waves that may seem innocent from the shore might be strong enough to turn getting out of the sea into a quite dangerous and scary undertaking, running the risk of being smashed into the shore or into a rock (that you perhaps can't see because it's under water). There is normally no lifeguard service on free public beaches.

Connect
As of June 2022, Genoa has 5G from all Italian carriers.

Cope
It is not difficult to find someone who can help you with easy problems in English, Spanish or French, but the best is of course to speak a little bit of Italian.

Consulates

 * 🇦🇿 Azerbaijan

Go next
Genoa makes a good base to explore Cinque Terre, Rapallo, Portofino, Portovenere, La Spezia, or Chiavari. The French Riviera is not too far away, either.