Flores (Guatemala)



Flores is a town in Petén, Guatemala. The town proper is an island on Lago Petén Itzá (la isla), connected to land by a causeway (el puente), on the other side of which lie the twin towns Santa Elena and San Benito. All three are often referred to as Flores, and are grouped in one article here accordingly.

Understand
For many, the main reason to visit Flores is its proximity to Tikal, the most famous Mayan ruins in Guatemala, or as a starting point for trips around Petén. But the city itself is a wonder &mdash; dense with colonial, red-roofed buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, a historic church and Spanish plaza, and restaurants that are easy to stumble upon walking the city's charming streets. Most will find that this island city is more than just a take-off point, but a memorable attraction in itself.

Before it was a Spanish colonial town, Flores, or Noh Petén, was the capital of a Maya kingdom - the last to be defeated by the Spanish conquistadores, more than 200 years after Columbus first arrived in the Americas. The resemblance of the Itzá in the name of the lake to Chichen Itza in modern-day Mexico is no coincidence - the builders of Chichén Itzá moved their capital to Flores Island after being defeated in the Yucatán.

Flores is a quiet and peaceful place, and probably one of the safest places in the sometimes wild north. Santa Elena and San Benito require a little more caution, but offer a more authentic experience of a Guatemalan town, complete with traffic, litter and street food.

By plane


TAG and Avianca both run flights from Guatemala City (daily and three times a week respectively), but are often delayed in both directions. TAG also runs five flights a week from Cancún, and two flights a week from Mérida.

A taxi from the airport to Flores costs Q20 (quetzales), or Q10 per person, whichever is larger. It is about 2 km from the airport to the Flores causeway.

Shuttles to Tikal meet every flight.

By bus
Buses from Guatemala City and Belize City as well as various other destinations all over the country (as well as cities in Mexico, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua) stop at the is 1.5 km south of the causeway to Isla Flores.

Many small buses from outlying villages of the region also run to the hidden at the heart of the Santa Elena's sprawling indoor/outdoor Old Market (Mercado Viejo), much closer to the island.

From Antigua Guatemala
There are numerous travel agencies in Antigua offering trips to Flores as a one way or a day trip (to Tikal) with return. The one way is usually a ticket with the one of the bus companies (in the below) and a shuttle transfer to the bus company's terminal in Guatemala City from Antigua. They also offer round trip/return by bus or by plane with shuttle transfers to bus station or airport on both ends. From the bus station or airport in Flores the shuttle takes travelers to Tikal for a guided tour and than back into town for the return trip back to Antigua via Guatemala City.

As of June 2024, there are two main transport packages connecting Flores and Antigua: A direct shuttle that leaves Flores for Antigua at 06:00 (Q300, 10-12 hours), and 21:00 overnight bus to Guatemala city plus shuttle connection to Antigua, which is supposedly faster because it avoids traffic by running at night (Q350, 10 hours). These are the approximate going rates, but different travel agencies may quote competing prices for you, and it may sometimes be negotiable.

From Guatemala City
From Guatemala City (travel time: 8 to 10 hours), you have the following options (some may be badly out of date). As of June 2024 the going rate for buses on this route seems to be Q200-250. Some services leave only once a day, though there's at least one that has several departures in both morning and evening.



From Cobán
Monja Blanca has a nice bus with movies for Q50 to Guatemala City from Coban

From Cobán (travel time: 5 to 7 hours), there are a few through Fuente Del Norte local buses, or you can use the frequent public microbuses (colectivos) that operate along the highway between Coban and Santa Elena. If you choose the microbus option (total fare: Q70) you will have to change to another microbus at Sayaxché after you take a quick boat or maybe the ferry across a river. The colectivo option may actually be quicker, because if there is a backup for the ferry, you can quickly pay a couple Quetzals for a boat ride across.

There are also tourists shuttles offering direct door-to-door service from Flores to Cobán for around Q100. The road from Cobán is very scenic; it's a smooth paved ride all the way (though windy for about an hour out of Coban).

From Belize City
From Belize City, you have the following options:


 * There are tourist shuttle buses from the Belize City water taxi terminal to Santa Elena: Autotransportes Del Norte (ADN) at 9:30AM or San Juan Express at 09:30 and 14:30, ~US$25 (Dec 2014), travel time: 5 hours. These buses do not make any stops in Belize; if you are travelling from San Ignacio or Belmopan, you must use the option below.
 * Take a local Belize bus (BZ$9 in Dec 2014) to Benque Viejo (3 km from the border). Then take a taxi to the border (BZ$20/4 persons, in Dec 2014), walk across, and continue to the Melchor de Mencos bus station (5 min away), where there are frequent microbuses (Q30, in Dec 2014) and the occasional pullman coach to Santa Elena. Approximately US$11 and 6 hours travel time in total.
 * There are private transfer from Belize City to Tikal or Flores by San Ignacio Shuttles, prices varies on the number of people.

From other locations
There are other travel agencies that offer or book onward shuttles and/or guided tours to Antigua, Guatemala City, Tikal, Uaxacatun, Lanquin, etc:



Get around
Walking is the most common way to get around, and circling the whole island takes about 15 minutes. It is an easy walk to Santa Elena and San Benito from Flores, about 10 minutes along the sidewalks of the causeway. Otherwise, auto-rickshaws (tuk-tuks), vans and buses are an option. As of June 2024, the standard fee for an auto-rickshaw in the Flores/Santa Elena/San Benito seems to be Q10-15, but if you have a lot of luggage or squeeze in two people, the fare might be more. Rates also go up at night.

The towns of San José and San Andrés, located on the northern shores of the lake, can be reached by hiring an expensive boat. The once-regular passenger boat service has been reduced following the improvement of the road - it's now easier to take the regular van or bus service there from the Santa Elena market, which at one point cost Q7 and takes around 30 minutes. These buses leave when they are full, and will be packed to capacity and often beyond! A chicken bus goes once an hour; these are more comfortable and slightly cheaper, but take longer.

There are regular boats to San Miguel, a small village directly north of Flores. In June 2024 a boatman quoted the price as Q10. They leave from a pier at the north end of the island

Tourist boats are moored behind Hotel Santana, and run to Petencito Zoo or are available for lake tours. Prices are not fixed, and haggling with the boatmen is a must.

Talk
The Itzá Maya language was once commonly spoken here, but is now just about extinct, and the common tongue of the Flores area is Spanish. Many, but not all, people working in the tourism industry have good English as well.

Do






Buy
As of June 2024, almost all of the ATMs in the Flores area are of the yellow "5B" brand, which is notoriously expensive (reportedly charging about Q50 per transation PLUS 7.5% of the withdrawal amount, and often going through with the transaction anyway even if you press "cancel"). There are two on the island, which anyone can point you to. There is also a BI brand ATM in the same shop as one of the 5B ones, and it only charges about Q30 per transaction, though some MasterCard users have reported it charging them for their transaction but not actually producing the cash (!). If you are determined to withdraw cash another way, the BAC Bank in Santa Elena can do it at the teller's desk (there is no BAC ATM). Take a number for the customer service desk and say you want to do a retiro de efectivo con tarjeta. There is no charge, but you MUST bring your passport.



You can also get souvenirs in the shops in Flores, but the prices and selection are better elsewhere in the country, so only worth checking out if this is your only stop in Guatemala.

Eat
Most of the restaurants on the island are on the expensive side by Guatemalan standards, though of course quite reasonable compared to North America or Western Europe, with mains often around Q100 or so. The cheapest food nearby is the street food around the Mercado Viejo in Santa Elena, but also check for local food stands in the Parque Central of the island and in the little park at the midway point of the causeway. Failing that, the taquerias at the entrance to the island are cheaper than most nicer restaurants, and there are some more cheap places on the second floor of the MayaMall at the Santa Elena end of the causeway. There's also a supermarket in this mall which has much better prices than the small grocery stores on the island.

The below listings may be badly out of date.


 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station
 * For the more budget-minded with not-so-sensitive stomach there are many street food sellers after the dusk usually all repetitively offering grilled chicken with spring onions and complimentary tortillas (for around Q20) adjacent to the Santa Elena Bus Station

There's a supermarket on Calle 30 de Junio opposite Hotel Petén that is open 24hrs, and a large grocery store "La Torre" in the new mall just across the causeway towards Santa Elena.

Sleep
Most travelers will stay on the island of Flores, but there are also options in Santa Elena and San Benito, as well as just across the lake in San Miguel. There are now many hostels and hotels, and they can generally all be found on booking aggregator websites/apps. Just be sure to check the location, as some that aren't on the island will still be listed as "close to the center".



Stay safe
The island of Flores is considered very safe, locals acting as if crime is not an issue here. Santa Elena is considered a bit dodgier - you will notice security guards outside of pharmacies and banks, some of them armed - but robberies or attacks on individuals are reportedly very uncommon, especially in the daytime.

If you can't swim, stay out of the water - it gets too deep to stand almost immediately, and the swimming piers can be tricky to get back up onto.

Connect
As of June 2024, Flores has good 4G cell coverage and just about all tourist accommodations offer free Wifi (of varying quality).

Go next



 * Autotransportes Del Norte (ADN) and San Juan Express operate morning buses respectively at 06:00 and 07:00 from the Santa Elena bus station. Tickets can be purchased from the bus companies at the bus station in Santa Elena and at third party agencies.
 * Beware that some third-parties sell bogus tickets. Receptores Turisticos Peteneros S.A. on Calle 15 de Septiembre in Flores sells legitimate tickets (posted on sign at Q180, though offered for Q100 in November 2019) and includes shuttle transportation from the entrance to Flores at 06:00 that connects with the 07:00 bus to Belize City.
 * Caye Caulker and San Pedro ferry tickets can be purchased with the bus tickets, but note that buses are no longer permitted to drop off passengers at the ferry terminals and therefore passengers must arrange a taxi (US$5 as of November 2019) from the Belize City bus terminal to the ferry terminals.
 * Guatemala City
 * Has departures from Flores at 22:00 (Q200 - Dec 2010). The bus leaves from Santa Elena. Contrary to previous reports, this bus does not go to Flores. A taxi to the bus terminal in Santa Elena should cost you no more than Q35. Very comfortable seating and excellent service. Don't bother with San Juan Express, its just a tourist trap. All the locals use Altobuses del Norte or any of the other bus companies leaving from the Santa Elena bus terminal.
 * Has three departures from Flores, at 09:00 (Q190), 10:00 and 21:30 (Q150). This buses also pick up the passengers in Flores, in the same place as ADN.


 * Tikal - this park is a major attraction in Guatemala, and is located 60 km from Flores. Open: 06:00-18:00 (after 15:00 arrivals gain free re-entry the following day). Admission: Q150. To avoid crowds and experience the rich wild-life at its best try to arrive around 06:00-07:00.
 * El Remate – A small village 30 km from Flores with a nice, calm and rural atmosphere, and normally less crowded than other places in the area, making it a nice alternative base for those exploring Tikal and the region. All minibuses from St. Elena to Tikal (US$1) stop here. However, some large buses (US$0.30) only stop at a crossing 7 km from El Remate, so ask first. Taxis are available for US$20 from the airport/Flores.
 * Motul de San José - a largish Mayan site just north of San José. Buses, minivans, and tuk-tuks operate to the site. The ruin has a few stelae with visible glyphs and a number of large overgrown pyramids.
 * Ixlú is a small Mayan site near the Melchor de Mencos junction on the way to Tikal. It is only of interest to the die-hard fans of Mayan sites. There are a number of overgrown mounds, and a few badly damaged monuments. The best preserved monuments have been moved to Flores central park.
 * El Peru, AKA Waká, AKA the formerly elusive Site Q, can be seen on a three-day trip from Flores.
 * Holtún is a small archaeological site 60 km from Flores on the way to Melchor de Mencos and the Belizean border. A broad, but unmarked path leads to the site. Locals can give directions. The site contains tree and vegetation covered temples. Painted masks adorn the inside of one of the temples, but this part is off limits to tourists (unless you can get a permit from the guard in charge). The part open to tourists also has masks, but these are not as impressive.
 * Uaxactún an archaeological site beyond Tikal, with some interesting ruins. Take the bus from Santa Elena bus terminal, which passes through Tikal. Insist that you are not visiting Tikal and the Tikal Park guards may not charge you the full Tikal entrance fee just to go through. Uaxactún is a small jungle hamlet laid out around a former airstrip. There is a single hotel but take your own mosquito net. The food in the hotel restaurant is terrible, you may be able to persuade one of the local women to prepare you fresh chicken, rice, and tortillas. Best to spend two nights, with one full day to explore the ruins, with groups on both sides of the airstrip.
 * El Mirador - Flores is the base for tours to the site of the largest Mayan temples, El Tigre and La Danta. This archaeological site deep in the rain forest near the Mexican border is of huge significance and can only be reached by foot and mule train - a five day round trip trek. Expect to pay US$150-500 (shop around) for the entire package including guide, food, mules and transport to Carmelita, the starting point. An extra day allows further travel along much of an ancient raised causeway to the ruins at Nakbé, which is around 3.5 hours away and 5 km closer to Carmelita. Any agency in Flores or Santa Elena can arrange tours to these places.
 * Yaxhá is an archaeological site 73 km from Flores on the way to Melchor de Mencos and the Belizean border. 62 km from Flores, just after Holtún, turn off on to the dirt road to Yaxhá (11 km). The site is not as popular as Tikal, but is well worth the trip. In addition, you may find that you are the only visitor, which offers a very different kind of experience from that of wading through the crowds at Tikal. There is ongoing restoration work at the site. The entrance fee covers Yaxha, Naranjo, and Nakum. The sites are very far apart and without a vehicle, impossible to do in one day.


 * Topoxté is a small site on an island on the west shore of Lago de Yaxhá. It can be reached by lancha (boat), costing around Q100 for the 15-minute journey.
 * Nakum is an impressive site some 20 km north of Yaxhá. From here it is a one day walk to Tikal, but you will need a guide. This site is undergoing extensive reconstruction and has an acropolis that is larger than that of Tikal. You can get there in the dry season with a 4-wheel drive vehicle. To get here, you have to pay the entry fee at Yaxha.
 * El Parque Natural Ixpanpajul - a 5-minute drive from Flores (US$5 by taxi), which has a canopy tour, a walking loop with suspension bridges and, in addition, offers horse riding and camping facilities.
 * Palenque in Mexico. Various travel agencies offer packages to Palenque in Guatemala or varying standards. You can choose to do it independently though, as follows:
 * Take the 05:00 Pinata bus from the Santa Elena bus terminal to La Técnica - the last stop past Bethel. It takes approximately four hours. The last couple are on an unpaved but beautiful road - just be glad you're in the bus and not in a minivan! They'll stop at the immigration checkpoint for you, and this is the last time you can change your Quetzals into Pesos. There is no exit fee for Guatemala.
 * There's then a five minute boat journey across the river to Frontera Corozal. It should cost Q15 (locals) but you'll end up paying Q20!
 * There will then be comfortable combi vans waiting on the far bank to take you to Palenque. You can leave your bags in the combi and go on to immigration. It's up the bank, follow the road around to the right then straight on for about 100 metres and immigration is on your left.
 * Neighboring towns - Don't forget that aside from Flores and Tikal, there is more to see and do around Lake Peten Itza, particularly the locals in some quaint neighboring towns. On the north shore of the lake, just across from Flores are San Andrés and San José. These two lovely little towns boast a similar architecture to that of Flores but set on the side of very steep terrain, which makes for quite a dramatic street stroll with beautiful views of the lake. The people of both towns are very lovely, polite and helpful. Why not come across and have a chat with the locals to practice your Spanish? And if this is out of your lingual reach, you could take intensive Spanish classes in either town along with culturally enriching home-stays. To get there, just head to the bus terminal in Santa Elena (10 minutes on foot) and wait for one of the very frequent local buses (colectivos). Local buses to and from run between 06:00 and 17:00, ask at the station for which one to take.