Florence

Florence (Italian: Firenze) is the capital of the region of Tuscany in Italy, with a population of about 383,000 (2016). The city is a cultural, artistic and architectural gem, and is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Florence was the home to powerful families, creative geniuses and scientific masterminds who left their legacies in the city's many museums and art galleries. The city also has a very rich literary history, being the birthplace of the famous poet Dante, and standard Italian today is primarily based on the dialect of Tuscan spoken in Florence.

Understand
Politically, economically, and culturally, Florence was the most important city in Europe for around 250 years, from some time before 1300 until the early 1500s.

Florentines reinvented money, in the form of the gold florin. This currency was the engine that drove Europe out of the Dark Ages, a term invented by Petrarch, a Florentine whose family had been exiled to Arezzo. They financed the development of industry all over Europe, from Britain to Bruges, Lyon and Hungary. They financed the English kings during the Hundred Years' War. They financed the papacy, including the construction of the papal palace in Avignon, and the reconstruction of St. Peter's and the Vatican when the papacy returned to Rome from the "Babylonian captivity".

Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio pioneered the use of the vernacular — the use of a locally spoken language, rather than Latin — and in their case, it was Tuscan, which, because of them, became the lingua franca for the entire Italian peninsula, and eventually the basis for standard Italian following unification in 1871. Because Dante, et al., wrote in Tuscan, Geoffrey Chaucer, who spent a lot of time in Northern Italy and who used some of Boccaccio's little stories to inspire his Canterbury Tales, wrote in English. Others started writing in French and Spanish. This was the beginning of the end of Latin as a common language throughout Europe.

The Florentines, perhaps most notably Filippo Brunelleschi (1377-1466) and Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472), invented Renaissance architecture. This architectural style revolutionised the way Rome, London, Paris and every other major city in Europe, from Barcelona to St. Petersburg, was built.

Florentines were the driving force behind the Age of Discovery. Florentine bankers financed Henry the Navigator and the Portuguese explorers, who pioneered the route around Africa to India and the Far East. It was a map drawn by the Florentine Paulo del Pozzo Toscanelli, a student of Brunelleschi, that Columbus used to sell his "enterprise" to the Spanish monarchs, and which he then used on his first voyage. Mercator's famous "Projection" is a refined version of Toscanelli's map, taking into account the Americas, of which the Florentine was obviously ignorant. The western hemisphere itself is named after a Florentine writer who claimed to be an explorer and mapmaker, Amerigo Vespucci.



Galileo and other scientists pioneered the study of optics, ballistics, astronomy, anatomy, and so on. Pico della Mirandola, Leonardo Bruni, Machiavelli, and many others laid the groundwork for our understanding of political science.

Opera was invented in Florence.

And that is just a smidgen of what went on in this city, which never had a population above 60,000 from the first attack of the plague in 1348 until long, long after it became unimportant.

And there were the Medici, perhaps the most important family that ever lived. The Medicis changed the world more than any other family. Forget all the art for which they paid. They taught first the other Italians, and then the rest of the Europeans, how to conduct statecraft. For example, Catherine de' Medici (1519-1589) married Henry II of France (reigned 1547-1559). After he died, Catherine ruled France as regent for her young sons, and was instrumental in turning France into Europe’s first nation-state. She brought the Renaissance into France, introducing everything from the châteaux of the Loire to the fork. She also was, to 16th- and 17th-century European royalty, what Queen Victoria was to the 19th and 20th centuries — everybody’s grandmama. Her children included three kings of France, Francis II (ruled 1559-1560), Charles IX (ruled 1560-1574) and Henry III (ruled 1574-1589). Her children-in-law included a fourth king of France, Henry IV (ruled 1589-1610), plus Elizabeth of Hapsburg, Philip II of Spain (of Armada fame), and Mary Queen of Scots.

And that is without mentioning any artists. From Arnolfo and Cimabue to Giotto, Nanni di Banco, and Uccello; through Lorenzo Ghiberti and Donatello and Masaccio and the various della Robbias; through Fra Angelico and Sandro Botticelli and Piero della Francesca, and on to Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci, the Florentines dominated the visual arts like nobody before or since. And this list does not include many who, in any other place, would be considered among the greatest of artists, but in Florence must be considered among the near-great: Benvenuto Cellini, Andrea del Sarto, Benozzo Gozzoli, Giorgio Vasari, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Fra Lippo Lippi, Buontalenti, Orcagna, Pollaiuolo, Filippino Lippi, Andrea del Verrocchio, Bronzino, Desiderio da Settignano, Michelozzo, the Rossellis, the Sangallos, Pontormo. And this list does not include the prolific Ignoto. Nor does it include the near-Florentines, such as Raphael, Andrea Pisano, Giambologna, the wonderfully nicknamed Sodoma and so many more, such as Peter-Paul Rubens, all of whom spent time in Florence and were educated by it.

Climate
Florence boasts a Mediterranean climate with hot, mostly dry summers and mild, wet winters. Day temperatures during summer are very hot, ranging from 30°C in June to 33°C in July and August. Winters experience day temperatures ranging from 11°C in January to 14°C in February. Springs and autumns are mild to warm, with day temperatures ranging from 16°C in November to 27°C in September. Sunshine is abundant throughout the year, with sunshine hours being very elevated in summer and discretely elevated also in winter.

By plane
The airport of Florence itself is Amerigo Vespacci International Airport (FLR IATA) (4 km northwest of the center), locally known as "Peretola", to which there are flights from major destinations in Western Europe. There is only one runway covered by hills, and therefore the flights that land there are relatively infrequent and expensive.

The airport is connected by tram line T2 connecting the airport to the train station SMN; The station is on the south side, and ends at Piazza dell'Unità Italiana. The tram station is controlled, to the left of the main entrance. The trams run every 5-15 minutes (depending on the time of day) until 12:30 (02:00 on weekends). One-way tickets cost €1.70 (as of January 2024) and can be purchased with cash or credit cards at vending machines at each station. The tram ride is about 20 minutes from end to end.

Taxis charge a flat rate of €25 from the airport to anywhere in the historic center of Florence, plus €1 per large item of luggage.

Other airports serving Florence are Bologna and Pisa.

Bologna (BLQ IATA) is the preferred option which is an hour's drive from Florence by car or train. From the airport of Bologna there are flights all over Europe when the dominant airline is Ryanair. From the airport there are also Emirates and Turkish Airlines flights, so these companies can be used to reach Bologna across Asia, Africa and Oceania.

Another airport that is used is the airport of Pisa. which is an hour and a half away from florence by train. There are fewer flights to Pisa than Bologna. So Bologna is better option.

It is better to book a flight that does not land or take off in the evening, because during these hours the reliability of the trains in Italy is quite low, and it is not worth taking the risk of missing a flight, or the last train. Taxi drivers in Bologna and Pisa, if you get stuck there at night, will not agree to take you to Florence.

If you are coming from North America from where there are no flights to either Bologna or Pisa, it is better to use the airport in Rome Fiumicino rather than Milan Malpensa, because from Rome the trip to Florence is much faster.

By train
Frequent direct trains connect Florence with Rome (90 mins), Milan (1 hr 40 min), Venice (2 hr), Naples (2 hrs 50 min) and Italy's other main cities.

Coming by train from other countries usually involves changing at Milan. However a direct Nightjet runs from Munich leaving around 20:00, reaching Florence around 06:00 and continuing to Rome, with the return leaving Florence towards 22:00 to reach Munich shortly after 08:00. The fare is about €100. This Nightjet divides and also runs to Vienna, with similar times.

Almost all trains go to the main station, on the north edge of the historic old town, near most accommodation and sights. There's a bank of Trenitalia ticket machines (cards or cash accepted) on the terminus platform concourse, staffed kiosks in the main hall, and various fast food options there and nearby. An underpass leads south into Piazza SMN.

A few regional trains bypass SMN, calling at Firenze Campo Marte, 2 km east near Florence Stadium, Firenze Statuto 1 km north of SMN, and Firenze Rifredi, 2 km north of SMN. Unless your ticket specifies otherwise, it's valid for any connecting train between those stations and SMN - you'll seldom have to wait longer than ten minutes. Otherwise, take a bus or taxi from the street outside.

By car
Florence is well connected by good highways to the rest of Italy. Autostrada A-1 runs to Bologna, Milan and the North, and to Rome and the South. Use Firenze-Impruneta exit for these routes and for Siena via the "Fi-Si" highway. A-11 runs to Pisa and the West: for north of the river follow A-11 to the end, for south of the river turn onto A-1 south to Firenze-Scandicci exit.

However, driving in Florence is very problematic. Driving in the historic centre - inside the wide "viale" where the old city walls were (and still are, south of the river) - is strictly prohibited, except for residents with permits. This is ferociously enforced by camera - if you drive in the prohibited areas, you will be hunted down and sent a stiff fine - around €100 for every camera you pass before escaping the zone. The city raises over €50 million in traffic fines each year, half of this from traffic zone offences.

If you're just visiting for the day, use the Park & Ride areas at the edge of town, for instance Villa Constanza (described below under "By bus"). You can't leave your car overnight here.

If you're driving to pre-booked accommodation in the centre, check ahead with them: given your car registration (Italian targa) they may be able to get you a 30-minute waiver, barely enough to find the hotel in the warren of old streets, drop luggage and check in, then take the car out of the zone. Central car rental offices likewise have a waiver and permitted route to exit and re-enter the city.

Firenze Parking run a dozen or so edge-of-centre parking lots, with a long walk or a short bus ride to the centre. For example the lot just north of Piazza della Liberta charges €10 per day, €70 per week.

Near the centre, parking is more expensive: e.g. a garage costs €30 per night. On the street, you can only use a blue parking space, if you're lucky enough to find one free. White parking places are for residents only and yellow ones are reserved. The price is €1 per hour and charges apply from 08:00 to 20:00; leave the ticket visible inside the car. You need coins for parking, as the machine won't accept banknotes or cards.

By bus
Flixbus ply direct between Florence and Rome (3 hr 30, two per hour), Milan (4 hours, roughly hourly), Perugia (2 hours, 4 times), Naples (7 hours, every 2-3 hours), Geneva (12 hours, one overnight, else change in Milan), Marseille (9 hours overnight), Paris (17 hours), Munich (4 per day, 9 hours), Zurich (9 hours), Frankfurt (14 hours), Vienna (12 hours) and Budapest (14 hours).

Buses that originate or terminate in Florence stop at the downtown bus station on Piazzale Montelungo next to SMN railway station. Buses that are passing Florence between other cities pick up and drop off at, just off Autostrada A-1 on the west edge of the city - take Tram 1. (And see "Get around: By tram" for practicalities.) The parking lot is short of shelter or other facilities.

By foot
Most of the major tourist sights in Florence are within easy walking distance of each other. It is possible to walk from one end of the historic center of Florence to the other - north-south or east-west - in a half hour. Walking is not only an easy way to get around, it also offers the chance to 'take in' much more of the city life. Be warned though, that electric motor scooters are small enough to fit where cars cannot. They are relatively quiet but quick and in the summer they often travel into the plazas. Some of the streets in central Florence are closed to traffic. Many more are simply too narrow for buses to get through. Therefore, bus and car tours are not recommended. This is a very small, compact city that really needs to be seen on foot.

By bicycle
There is a bike rental service organized by the city. Bikes can be hired at several points in the city (and returned to the same place). One of the most convenient for tourists is at the SMN Station. There are other locations at many railway stations, but often with restricted opening hours. In addition, some hotels provide their guests with free bicycles. Bike shops also often rent bikes and some of them organize guided bike tours in the countryside.

While there are hills north and south of the center of town, almost all of the historic center of Florence is easy for bikers, because it is flat. But there is a problem: traffic is terrible, with buses, trucks, cars, motorcycles, motorbikes, bicycles, and pedestrians fighting for almost no space. However, a network of cycle paths make it often much faster to circumvent the city centre than to cycle directly through historic streets, even if the destination is in an area such as Santa Croce or Santa Maria Novella.

By taxi
Taxis are available, but it may be best if you have your hotel or the restaurant you are eating at call ahead. When taxis are called by phone, the nearest one available is sent to you through the company's radio system with its meter ticking away. In Florence, it can be difficult to hail a cab from the street curb. You either call for one or get one at the very few taxi stands. One popular taxi stand is at the central Santa Maria Novella Train Station, and there are others in a few major squares. The first taxi in the taxi stand line should be available - ask in case of doubt. Most taxis do not take credit cards for payment, so be sure to have cash on hand. Taxis in Florence are relatively expensive. Tipping is not expected, unless the driver helps you carry luggage, etc.

By bus
Another way of getting around is by using the public buses from AutolineeToscane.

A single paper ticket costs €1.70, a carnet of 10 tickets is €14 (as of 2024 these are no longer easily available). One can buy tickets at tabacchi (shops selling tobacco, which are marked with official looking "T"s out front"), kiosks/newsagents/bars where the symbol "Biglietti AutolineeToscane" is shown, as well as at the AutolineeToscane ticketing office at the bus station outside Santa Maria Novella train station. Within 90 minutes of stamping you can hop-off & hop-on on any bus of the urban AutolineeToscane network. Tickets need to be stamped when entering the bus (from the front and rear doors of buses - the central door is supposed to be exit only; though now it is more accepted to enter from the central door). If you are unable to find a ticket vendor, the automated parking kiosks will sell one for €1.70 and accept contactless card payment and coins. A ticket may also be available from the driver at €2.50 but there is no guarantee that the driver will agree to sell them. Hold tightly onto the hand rails as Florence traffic is unpredictable and frequent sudden braking is necessary. Unlike bigger cities such as Rome or Naples, buses in Florence are relatively "safe." Keep a close eye on your belongings and avoid showing off cash, jewelry, etc., especially in very crowded buses.

By tram
There are two tram lines in the city. The first one runs from Villa Constanza Park & Ride on the south-western edge of the city, just off the A-1, so most users are commuters. It runs into town through the western burbs of Scandicci and L'Isolotto to SMN main railway station (25 min), then turns north to Rifredi and the University/Hospital area. It runs daily 05:00-00:30 every three to ten minutes, and a single ride costs €1.50. The second line connects the airport and the near west side to the city centre and the Santa Maria Novella station. By 2025, the network will have been extended to Piazza della Libertà and Piazza San Marco.

By car
Don't even think of it - see "Get in". Just thinking of it is probably enough to incur a fine.

See
Consider whether you'll benefit from buying a Firenzecard, described earlier, but learn from Stendahl and don't try to see too much. Most tourists rush to do the Uffizi, the Duomo and the Bargello. These are indeed splendid, but you may wait hours to get in, and be jostled by tour groups. Pre-book if you know you want to see them; otherwise spread out and see stuff that is equally fine but less touristy. A long weekend here could comfortably take in a sprinkling of old churches, and a couple of museums or galleries. But leave time and energy for just enjoying the ambience.

Churches: the standout is definitely the Duomo or Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. But other fine churches north of the river include San Lorenzo, Santa Maria Novella, Santa Trinita, Santa Croce, Santo Spirito, SS Annunziata and Ognissanti. Highlights south of the river are Santa Maria del Carmine and San Miniato al Monte.

Art galleries: aim to do at least one of Uffizi, Pitti Palace, Accademia, Bargello and the Museum of the Works of the Duomo. They are filled with the brilliant creations of all the renaissance big names: Donatello, Verrochio, Desiderio da Settignano, and Michelangelo. There are also several modern galleries.

City views: the classic panorama is from Piazzale Michelangelo, on the hillside just south of the river, and from San Miniato al Monte a little higher up. But every tour bus pauses here for photos so it can get mobbed. There is also a great view from the dome of the Cathedral or Giotto's Bell Tower, and an even greater line to climb them.

Florence is featured in Assassin's Creed II; see Assassin's Creed Tour.

Piazza del Duomo


The Cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore, is an astonishing confection dominating the piazza below and the skyline above. It's the fourth largest Christian church in the world, behind the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace in Yamoussoukro, Côte d'Ivoire; St Peter's in Rome; and St Paul's in London. It's an early example of "technology-forcing" - like the US lunar missions of the 1960s, the 13th-century Florentines started building it without knowing how they'd complete it, until along came Brunelleschi and his vast crowning dome. The eye-catching facade is 19th-century. In front of the cathedral is the ornate medieval Baptistery, in use until modern times. Also in the piazza is the Bell Tower, designed by Giotto. The artwork from these buildings has been replaced by replicas, with the originals in the adjacent Museum of the Works of the Duomo. Buy a combined ticket online for €18 (concessions €3) to enter the following monuments (one entry per monument, valid for 72 hours after first use, book up to 30 days ahead; all closed first Tuesday of the month):



Museums
Book ahead for the big-name museums. All of these (plus Boboli Gardens) have a combined booking portal and there are several combi-tickets. In practice, it's Uffizi that draws the biggest crowds and so is hardest to access; your options are:
 * - Just wait in line. On a good day this could mean a 4-5 hour wait, hopefully in good weather. On a bad day you wait 4-5 hours outside in bad weather then they sell out and turn you away. This is especially likely on the first Sunday of the month when entry is free. Tuesday too is crowded, since it's closed Monday so there's pent-up demand.
 * - Go on an organised tour - these have a pre-booked slot and you step right in. Caveat emptor, as tour operations range from the shambolic and rushed to the sublime and educating.
 * - Buy a Firenzecard, so you skip the usual line. Upmarket hotels sometimes also have access to priority slots.
 * - Book online, paying €4 extra and pre-printing your email for a fixed time slot. Be there at least an hour ahead, because so many people are skipping line, there's a line to skip the line.
 * - Book by phone on +39 055 294883, likewise paying €4 extra for a fixed slot and arriving an hour early. It's not clear how long you'll typically wait to get through by phone.




 * A Contemporary Art gallery is sited in, and there are several other collections around city centre.
 * A Contemporary Art gallery is sited in, and there are several other collections around city centre.
 * A Contemporary Art gallery is sited in, and there are several other collections around city centre.
 * A Contemporary Art gallery is sited in, and there are several other collections around city centre.
 * A Contemporary Art gallery is sited in, and there are several other collections around city centre.
 * A Contemporary Art gallery is sited in, and there are several other collections around city centre.

Old town centre

 * Piazza della Signoria is the grand open space in front: not quite a square, as Palazzo Vecchio blocks out one corner. Sights here are the equestrian statue of Cosimo de Medici, the Fountain of Neptune, the statue of David, and Loggia dei Lanzi, an open arched gallery of Renaissance sculpture.
 * Piazza della Signoria is the grand open space in front: not quite a square, as Palazzo Vecchio blocks out one corner. Sights here are the equestrian statue of Cosimo de Medici, the Fountain of Neptune, the statue of David, and Loggia dei Lanzi, an open arched gallery of Renaissance sculpture.



South bank of the Arno



 * Pitti Palace: see Museum listing above.
 * Natural History Museum ("La Specola") is on Via Romana next to Pitti Palace. Open Tu-Su 09:00-16:00.
 * Museo Stefano Bardini: collection of early Florentine art, housed in the Palazzo Mozzi just south of Ponte alla Grazia. It's open F-M 11:00-17:00.
 * Natural History Museum ("La Specola") is on Via Romana next to Pitti Palace. Open Tu-Su 09:00-16:00.
 * Museo Stefano Bardini: collection of early Florentine art, housed in the Palazzo Mozzi just south of Ponte alla Grazia. It's open F-M 11:00-17:00.
 * Museo Stefano Bardini: collection of early Florentine art, housed in the Palazzo Mozzi just south of Ponte alla Grazia. It's open F-M 11:00-17:00.
 * Museo Stefano Bardini: collection of early Florentine art, housed in the Palazzo Mozzi just south of Ponte alla Grazia. It's open F-M 11:00-17:00.
 * Museo Stefano Bardini: collection of early Florentine art, housed in the Palazzo Mozzi just south of Ponte alla Grazia. It's open F-M 11:00-17:00.

Do
Great places to walk include along the Arno and across any of its bridges; through narrow, medieval back streets in the Santa Croce area; and in the Oltr'Arno, on the south side of the river, which is in many ways like Rome's Trastevere or Paris's Left Bank, but far, far smaller.


 * Climb the Duomo or Campanile: Traverse the winding staircases inside the Duomo or the nearby bell tower to see some of the best views of Florence. Not only can you see the Tuscan countryside in the distance and the impressive palaces and churches of Florence in the fore, but it also shows you just how large the Duomo is.
 * Stroll the Boboli Gardens: These extensive gardens behind the Pitti palace provide excellent views of the city of Florence and numerous sculptures in a relaxed environment. Stop in the hilltop café, grab a drink and a seat outside and enjoy the view.
 * Street performers strut their stuff in front of Palazzo Vecchio of an evening. Performances can range from violin duets to people dressed as sculptures. A nice place to stop while you eat your after-dinner gelato.
 * Join a monastery: those aged 18-35 are invited to take a two-day spiritual retreat at Badia Fiorentina on Via del Proconsolo. Or just come to hear sung vespers at 18:00 and mass at 18:30 nightly in this peaceful church, filled with artwork. It's central yet virtually free of tourists.
 * Football: ACF Fiorentina play soccer in Serie A, Italy's top tier. Their home ground Stadio Artemio Franchi (capacity 43,000) is 2 km northeast of city centre.
 * Football: ACF Fiorentina play soccer in Serie A, Italy's top tier. Their home ground Stadio Artemio Franchi (capacity 43,000) is 2 km northeast of city centre.

Buy
There are a few places to buy things, from the high-end jewelry stores lining the Ponte Vecchio to some of the most famous shops in the world — Gucci, Pucci, Ferragamo, Valentino, Prada, Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Buccellati, Frette — as well as many more wonderful shops that aren't yet world famous. Souvenirs related to art and Florence's sights can be found everywhere. Books, leather goods, art handcrafted journals, frames, pencils etc. in that gorgeous Florentine paper with swirls of color and gold are great gifts.

It is increasingly difficult to find bargains, but keen-eyed shoppers can still find good deals on smaller side streets running off of those above and elsewhere in the centre of town. Better stores in/near the city centre offer superb leather, sometimes at decent prices, perhaps after some bargaining. Goldsmiths on the Ponte Vecchio display beautiful, quality work but can be very expensive. Shops that are not in the very centre of the city are significantly cheaper. There are also superb shopping streets, such as Via Tornabuoni, Via del Parione, and Via Maggio. The San Lorenzo Market is now largely for tourists. There are also a couple of collections of "outlets" in the suburbs.

Some of the most uniquely Florentine shops and sights can be found in the Oltrarno, which is Florence's "Left Bank" and home to countless generations of artisans. This section of town can be found by crossing "Ponte Vecchio" (the old bridge) or Ponte Trinità from the center. This "undiscovered" Florence is a must-see.



Beware: If the police catch you while buying a knock-off version of something with a brand from an (illegal) street vendor, you can be fined up to €10,000. You'll see plenty of people on the street selling imitation Gucci sunglasses, Rolex watches, and Prada purses dirt cheap. It's okay if the item doesn't have a real brand on it, but buying a knock-off is illegal.

Eat
Restaurants have separate prices for food that is taken away or is eaten standing up versus sit down; don't try to sit at a table after paying for food or coffee from the restaurant's take away booth. Also ask always beforehand for the price if you want to sit at a table. Otherwise you might be uncomfortably surprised. Cappuccino al banco i.e. standing up might cost €1-3, but at a table €4.

Florence's food can be as much of a treat to the palate as the art is a treat to the eye. There is good food for any price range, from fine restaurants to take out food from window stands. You will find the best price/quality ratio outside the historical centre, where locals go to eat. The worst ratio is probably in the neighbourhood of Mercato di San Lorenzo or immediately south of the Duomo where there are a lot of tourist restaurants. Conversely many of the best restaurants in the city are found in the Santa Croce district or across the river in the Oltrarno. In many trattorias requests for pizza may be met with a rebuff as not every trattoria will have a pizza oven. For local pizza look for smaller establishments in the Sant'Ambrogio district.

The best lunch places don't always turn out to be the best dinner places. Dinner in Florence really starts some time between 19:00 and 21:00. If a place looks like they're preparing to close before 20:00, it might not be the best option for an evening meal.

Typical Tuscan courses include bistecca alla fiorentina which is huge t-bone steak weighing from 500g to 1,500g. It has always price given per 100g, e.g. €3.5 etto (an etto is a "hectogram" or 100 gram-ettogrammo). crostini toscani are crostini with Tuscan liver pâté.

There is also a uniquely Florentine fast food with a 1,000-year history - lampredotto, a kind of tripe (cow stomach, or calf for preference, but a different part than the more familiar white "honeycomb" kind, dark brown in color; the name comes from its wrinkled appearance, which apparently reminds locals of a lamprey fish). The trippaio set their carts in the public squares in the centre, dishing out the delicacy straight from the cauldron in which it is being boiled with herbs and tomatoes, chopping it and slapping the portions between halves of a Tuscan roll; the top is dipped in the broth. A mild green parsley- or basil-based sauce or a hot red one goes with it.

There are many gelato (Italian ice cream) stands; some connoisseurs consider the better Florentine gelato the finest in the world. Often gelato is made in the bar where you buy it. Because of this there are many exotic flavors of ice cream like watermelon, spumante or garlic. It's hard to find a gelato place open very late, so after dinner might not be an option. Near the Duomo, though, there are a few places open after 22:00.

Tuscany is also the wellspring of cantuccini, also called biscotti di Prato. (In Italian, the singular of biscotti is un biscotto.) It's traditional to enjoy them after a meal by dipping them in vin santo ("holy wine"), a concentrated wine made from late-harvested grapes, but you can also buy bags of them in stores throughout the city and eat them however you like.

Budget
There are numerous caffè and pasticcerie where you can find excellent sandwiches. Schiacciata sandwiches are one of the most famous Florentine specialities, and can be the most affordable meals available with a typical cost of €4-7. The most famous Sandwich shop L'Antico Vinaio near the Palazzo Vecchio has recently become extremely popular due to social media interest and one can queue for up to 45 minutes to buy one there. Fortunately there are many equally good (if not better) and cheaper Schiacciata options available nearby.

Pizza sold by weight is an equally excellent solution for budget dining (vegetarian and vegan options are almost always available), as is any caffè displaying a "Primi" card in its window where you'll find pastas and other dishes at low reasonable prices. The delis (rosticcerie) are very affordable (and the food is often quite good), and some also have dining tables if you don't want to take away.

You can buy the makings for a picnic or snack at the Mercato Centrale. This large market has everything you might need, often at lower prices than supermarkets. The stalls will also sometimes vacuum seal whatever you buy so you can take it home with you.

A general rule: the closer you are to the historic old town, the higher the price.

Mid-range




Dessert

 * Perché No Via dei Tavolini 19. Freshly made daily from quality ingredients. The pear will be made with real pears and will taste of pears. Typically fruit flavors will be made with seasonally available fruits. Chocolate flavor will taste of cocoa rather than chocolate milk-powder. If you are a chocolate fan, this is the place to go. Specialties are "sorbetto" (ice cream made with water rather than milk, both with fruit and standard flavors, and "mousse" ice creams. Ask for the "special" taste of the day.
 * Perché No Via dei Tavolini 19. Freshly made daily from quality ingredients. The pear will be made with real pears and will taste of pears. Typically fruit flavors will be made with seasonally available fruits. Chocolate flavor will taste of cocoa rather than chocolate milk-powder. If you are a chocolate fan, this is the place to go. Specialties are "sorbetto" (ice cream made with water rather than milk, both with fruit and standard flavors, and "mousse" ice creams. Ask for the "special" taste of the day.
 * Perché No Via dei Tavolini 19. Freshly made daily from quality ingredients. The pear will be made with real pears and will taste of pears. Typically fruit flavors will be made with seasonally available fruits. Chocolate flavor will taste of cocoa rather than chocolate milk-powder. If you are a chocolate fan, this is the place to go. Specialties are "sorbetto" (ice cream made with water rather than milk, both with fruit and standard flavors, and "mousse" ice creams. Ask for the "special" taste of the day.

Drink
Tap water is safe but those who prefer bottled water will find it plentiful. Still (naturale) and sparkling (gassata) water is available for free from a fountain set into the wall of the Palazzo Vecchio.

Make sure to sample the excellent wines of the region.

Chianti is the local wine that can be ordered cheaply. Many eateries will offer carafes of various sizes of "house chianti", usually for under €4.

Bars

 * Uffizi Museum The bar at this museum offers an amazing view overlooking la Piazza della Signoria, but it's only accessible through the museum, so you'll have to buy a ticket.
 * Irish Pub (The Fiddlers Elbow) Piazza Santa Maria Novella. This pub has plenty of seating, in addition to live music and great staff.
 * Bebop-great coverbands everynight and a €4 pint. Can be found north of the Duomo on the right on Via Dei Servi, before you reach Piazza d Annunziata.
 * Ambrosia - Found in Piazza de Ambrosia. This is primarily a wine bar, and you can sample some great wines at a low cost provided you come with friends and share the price of whole bottles.
 * Rivoire Piazza della Signoria. Founded in 1872 this terrace facing the Palazzo Vecchio is a Florentine institution.
 * Paszkowski or Gilli. On the Piazza Republica, next to the hotel Savoy. The terraces on the other side of the piazza are equally pricey.
 * Rivoire Piazza della Signoria. Founded in 1872 this terrace facing the Palazzo Vecchio is a Florentine institution.
 * Paszkowski or Gilli. On the Piazza Republica, next to the hotel Savoy. The terraces on the other side of the piazza are equally pricey.

Sleep
As elsewhere the price of hotels in Florence has been climbing quickly in the last few years. The golden rule here is if you want something cheap you'll have to stay outside of the historic center. The area around the train station is cheaper, but not as safe, especially for women travelers at night. If you are looking at big chain hotels you should be aware that they are usually quite a distance from the centre, the Novotel for instance is almost at the airport.

Certain hotels, particularly those oriented toward business travellers offer special reduced rates during the weekend (e.g. Starhotel Michelangelo) or during slow weeks like Baglioni. Sometimes you can also get a substantial discount by reserving online. In the train station there is a tourist information office which also offers hotel reservations; you can often get good deals through them at the very last minute, but it's not guaranteed.

Budget
There are quite a number of one or two star alberghi within a short distance of the station. Young women can find accommodation with certain convents at very low prices, and usually in historic locations. On the other hand, you'll have to forget about any late-night Tuscan craziness.

Camping
There are campsites round the edge of town: to SW is Ostello Tasso Ente, north is Elite Firenze Gestioie SRL, NE is Camping Albergue, east is Me & Mom in Tuscany, and 3 others further east in Rovezzano. Camping Michelangelo south of town has closed.

Connect
Florence has 5G from all Italian carriers, but as of Sept 2021 coverage remains patchy.

Stay safe
Florence is generally safe and healthy, but beware the inevitable purse-snatchers and pickpockets. They thrive in crowds, particularly around SMN railway station and on the buses, sometimes working with a decoy such as an insistent beggar. If you have a bag with a classy, noiseless zipper, it will be opened.

Also beware at night around tourist spots such as Ponte Vecchio where pickpocketers may approach you pretending to be drunk and friendly, and then snatch your belongings when your guard is down.

Go next

 * Florence is a great starting point and base for a tour of Tuscany. Attractive day trips include Pisa, Lucca, San Gimignano, Arezzo, Pistoia, Fiesole, Lucignano, Siena, and of course the wine zone of Chianti. Greve in Chianti is the market town of the Chianti zone and it is in the hills surrounding Greve that you can rent a B&B room or a small apartment on a working vineyard for less than a hotel in Florence. The SITA Pullman buses take you to Greve and Panzano in about an hour. From then on you see few cars and many cypress and olive trees.
 * The SITA bus station is just west of the train station in Florence. This is where to go to catch a bus to Siena, San Gimignano, and so on. If you're at the roundabout, facing the train station, go 90 degrees left and stay on the left until just past the fork. You will see the entrance to the SITA garage on your right.


 * Biking options outside of the city include the Chianti area, where you can fully enjoy the hills and the elegance of the landscape surrounding you, which has been taken care of endlessly through centuries. Strong scents can be enjoyed in Spring. The warm temperatures and usually stable weather in the good seasons can make the ride even more enjoyable. If you feel more energetic, ascents to Vallombrosa from Pontassieve through Tosi can be very enjoyable. You start from the Arno river plain and you end up in a thick, shady, fresh forest. In all cases, avoid the hottest hours in Summer and be aware of the traffic, which can be heavy and not cyclist-savvy, until you get in secondary or less populated roads.
 * UNESCO World Heritage Listed rural building complexes (Medici Villas and Gardens) are scattered around Florence:
 * Biking options outside of the city include the Chianti area, where you can fully enjoy the hills and the elegance of the landscape surrounding you, which has been taken care of endlessly through centuries. Strong scents can be enjoyed in Spring. The warm temperatures and usually stable weather in the good seasons can make the ride even more enjoyable. If you feel more energetic, ascents to Vallombrosa from Pontassieve through Tosi can be very enjoyable. You start from the Arno river plain and you end up in a thick, shady, fresh forest. In all cases, avoid the hottest hours in Summer and be aware of the traffic, which can be heavy and not cyclist-savvy, until you get in secondary or less populated roads.
 * UNESCO World Heritage Listed rural building complexes (Medici Villas and Gardens) are scattered around Florence: