Esino Lario

Esino Lario is a mountain village in the Esino valley, between Lake Como and Valsassina in the Province of Lecco, in the Lombardy region of northern Italy. The village has a history of tourism that started in the late 19th century with scientists fascinated by the karst phenomena of the Grigna mountains and searching for fossils and the almost 500 caves of Moncodeno. From this early tourism a number of small hotels, restaurants and villas were built. Tourism developed greatly in the 1960s and 1970s. Today Esino Lario – 12 km above Lake Como and connected to Valsassina – is a special location for summer mountain holidays and a starting point for excursions in the Grigna mountains and the Regional Northern Grigna Park.

The peculiarity of Esino Lario is its position in a sunny mountain basin at an elevation of around 910 m, with a pleasant microclimate and "good air", as the historical tourism leaflets would advertise, particularly to families with children. The landscape is diverse, with the charming historical streets of the two centers of Upper Esino (Esino superiore) and Lower Esino (Esino inferiore), with the high peaks of the limestone Grigna mountains (with excursions from Cainallo), with the gentle walks in the woods (with excursions from Ortanella) and with spectacular views of Lake Como from the lawn in front of San Pietro Church in Ortanella, from Passo di Narele and from the mountains (Grigne, San Defendante, Monte Croce). For its variety of landscapes, for its position in the heart of the Grigna mountains and for its sunny and pleasant position, Esino Lario is sometimes referred to as the 'Pearl of Grigna'.

History
Esino Lario has documented archaeological finds from the 5th century BC onwards, and a territory that presents very visible traces of the Alpine orogeny – fossils, almost 500 caves, sinkholes and erratic boulders. The village was on the path of the Strada del Viandante (road wanderer), connecting the villages of the eastern shore of Lake Como. Before the 18th century, and the construction of the road along the lake, to travel the territory from south to north, the road would go up from Lierna to Ortanella in Esino Lario. The village was also connected to Valsassina, a large valley with a strong production of iron; Esino was part of the Squadra dei monti (team of the mountains) proving wood and charcoal for the iron industry.

Don Giovanni Battista Rocca (1892-1965), son of silk producers from Brianza and vicar of Esino from 1927 to his death, also undertook some initiatives to advance the Esino region and the historic and social features that identify it. He established the Museum of the Grigne and in 1936 started Esino's Tapestry School.

Since the Middle Ages, Lombardy has been famous for the production of wool fabrics and later, silk fabrics. There were many spinning mills around Lake Como in the 1800s, and women contributed to their family's income by leaving home every morning, even from far away villages like Esino, to walk to the lake shores to work in the mills. The situation changed at the beginning of the 19th century, when demands and rhythms evolved after scientific and technological breakthroughs. Don Rocca asked himself how Esino's people could adapt the local tradition of weaving to the modernization of that period. So he started the Tapestry School. Women from Esino used their own silken threads to make tapestries, while the drawings were sketched by famous artists. So, just like the most famous artists from the Renaissance, theirs were true works of art used to furnish and decorate living rooms and meeting places and they received prizes in the Art Exhibition of Decorative Art in Milan (Triennale). During Wikimania 2016, some of the tapestries are being exhibited in Esino.

Don Rocca's personal passion for science, botany, agriculture and activities linked to the agrarian society inspired him to revive potato growing in Esino's valley. The climate in the valley facilitated the cultivation of a particular kind of tuber, known as the "white potato of Esino" or "biancona of Esino", characterized by a rounded shape; its white and mealy texture is particularly good for dumplings and the traditional Esinese stuffing for ravioli.

Climate
Esino Lario, like most of Valsassina, features a humid temperate climate, cooler than in the Po Valley due to the higher elevation. In Barzio, the nearest weather station (elevation 770 m/2,500 ft - Esino Lario has an elevation of about 100 m higher), mean annual temperature is around 10°C/50°F (compared, for example, with around 13°C/55°F in Milan). Precipitation is abundant, with more than 1,700 mm (55 inches) falling in an average year. Rain is frequent in every season, with a little minimum in winter when there can be snowfall. As in most temperate areas, there are prolonged and well-defined intermediate seasons.

Summers are moderate, with frequent rain showers and thunderstorms. Mean summer temperature is around 19°C (66°F), higher in July and August, and slightly lower in June; even during the most intense heat waves, anyway, maximum temperatures very rarely exceed 32°C (90°F). Winters are quite mild; the average temperature for December, January and February is around 1-2°C (34-35°F), more or less the same temperature recorded in the Po Valley at much lower elevations. This is due to the phenomenon of inversion (a deviation from the normal atmospheric behavior, where temperature increases with elevation) frequently observed in midwinter when subtropical high-pressure systems reach northern Italy. Anyway, winters can become snowy, as extratropical cyclones carry moist and cool air from North Atlantic.

Get in
Esino Lario is 12 km by road and a climb of 900 m from Varenna. The nearest major city is Milan. You can reach the village by car, bus, taxi, bike or by foot; there is no airport. Two provincial roads reach it: one from Varenna and one from Bellano-Parlasco (Strada della Valsassina).
 * Varenna to Esino. The road from Varenna is the shortest. It passes through Perledo and for the most part you go up the mountains looking at the lake. The road is quite narrow, with a number of hairpin bends. When coming by train (from Milan, Bergamo, Lecco, Valtellina, Valchiavenna, Switzerland) or by boat from other villages of Lake Como, this is the most suitable and direct road. A regular bus line connects the railway station called Varenna Esino to Esino Lario; the buses have up to 35 seats. It is not unusual to pass excursionists with mountain bikes on the way to Esino.
 * Parlasco to Esino. The road from Bellano-Parlasco (Strada della Valsassina) connects Esino to Valsassina. The road is also a good option if you are coming by car or by private bus from Milan, Bergamo, Lecco, Valtellina, Valchiavenna and Switzerland; from the superstrada you can get off in Bellano and follow for Valsassina, Parlasco and Esino Lario; this option is a little longer than Varenna-Esino but the road is wider, with fewer hairpin turns and traffic in the summer and during weekends, and with a spectacular view of Lake Como and Esino Lario at Sasso di Narele. Also excursionists with mountain bikes appreciate this way to Esino.

By plane
The most convenient airports are Milano Malpensa (MXP), Milano Linate (LIN) and Milano-Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY).

By train
The nearest railway station is Varenna Esino, actually located in the territory of Perledo and a very short walking distance from Varenna boat station and Varenna centre. Trains come to the station from the line Milan, Lecco (connected to the line to Bergamo), Colico (connected to the line to Valchiavenna), Morbegno, Sondrio and Tirano (Valtellina). Trains from Milan's main railway stations (Milan stazione centrale - central station for direct trains and Milano Porta Garibaldi for regional trains) to Varenna Esino take 1 hour and 5 minutes. From the railway station there is a public bus service to Esino Lario; buses are not available for every train, but when available they wait for the train.

From Switzerland, the fastest rail travel option is usually the route via Monza (near Milan; 5 to 6 hours to Varenna Esino from Zürich). Another option is using the Rhaetian Railway via Chur to Tirano and then taking the train from Tirano to Varenna Esino. From Zürich, this takes 7 to 8 hours, so considerably longer than the Monza/Milan route. However, this is a chance to travel via the UNESCO World Heritage Albula and Bernina lines (another option is to skip the Albula line and take a train through the Vereina tunnel, via Klosters). Also, as the Swiss GA travelcard is valid on the Rhaetian Railway till Tirano, this route might actually be a cheap option for holders of this card, only needing a ticket from Tirano to Varenna Esino. The regular prices of the Swiss railways are rather steep, however.
 * Rule of thumb: For the Albula line, take train from Chur to Samedan via Filisur, change at Samedan to Pontresina; in Pontresina, take the Bernina line train to Tirano. For the Vereina line, take train from Landquart to St. Moritz via Klosters/Zernez; in St. Moritz, take the Bernina line train to Tirano.
 * In Tirano, the Italian railway station is separate from the Rhaetian Railway's station, but the two stations are very close to each other (at the same square).
 * Connections from Switzerland to Varenna-Esino can be found at the Swiss Federal Railway's web site. Most standard results are via Monza; if you wish to take the alternate route, enter Chur (for Albula) or Landquart (for Vereina) and Tirano as via stations.

By bus
There is a public bus line connecting Esino Lario to Perledo, Varenna and Bellano. In Varenna the bus stops at the Varenna Esino railway station. The service is meant for school students (from Esino to the railway station Varenna Esino and to Bellano where there is the secondary school) and commuters (from Esino to the railway station Varenna Esino) and the schedule is designed accordingly. The bus timetable reports 40 minutes from Varenna Esino station to Esino Lario. In Esino Lario there are two main bus stops, in Piazza Gulfi and Piazza Italia; during the summer the bus also stops in Ortanella and during winter the bus stops in some other villages to collect students.

By car

 * From Milan (80 km, around 1 hour 45 or 2 hours) and from Lecco (35 km, around 50 minutes - 1 hour). Take the SS36 Spluga (superstrada) in the direction of Sondrio.
 * Exit Abbadia Lariana - passing through Varenna. After Lecco, take the exit Abbadia Lariana (Lago SP72), continue through Mandello, Olcio, Lierna and Fiumelatte. Once you arrive in Varenna, pass through the village and follow the direction for Esino Lario (right). The street (panoramic) passes through Perledo and reaches Esino Lario.
 * Exit Bellano - passing through Parlasco (panoramic street).
 * Exit Valsassina - passing through Cortenova and Parlasco.
 * From Colico on Lake Como (40 km, 50 minutes). Take the SP72 along the Lake in the direction of Lecco. Once you arrive in Varenna follow the direction towards the centre and follow for Esino Lario (right, before entering the centre).
 * From Varenna on Lake Como (12 km – 20 minutes) follow the direction for Esino Lario; the street for Esino Lario is in front of the street for the boat station and towards the Varenna Esino railway station and Perledo.
 * From Barzio in Valsassina (30 km – 40 minutes). Take the SP62; in Cortenova turn on the SP65 towards Parlasco and follow the direction for Esino Lario.
 * From Lugano in Ticino, Switzerland. Take the street to Porlezza and Menaggio. In Menaggio you can take the street along the Lake to Varenna (passing through Gravedona and Colico) or you can take a boat with transport of car to Varenna. Follow the directions from Varenna to Esino Lario.

By taxi
There are no taxi companies in Esino Lario; taxi can be found in Varenna and Perledo and at the Varenna Esino station. A ride by taxi to Esino Lario from Varenna Esino station is around €30.

By boat
From Varenna you can sail on Lake Como to many destinations, including Abbadia Lariana, Argegno, Bellagio, Bellano, Careno, Cernobbio, Colico, Como, Gravedona, Isola Comacina, Lecco, Mandello, Menaggio, Piona, Pognana, Torno and Tremezzo. The ferry boats between Varenna, Menaggio, Bellagio and Cadenabbia carry cars and buses. Fast rides are more expensive than regular transport. Boat rides are also a beautiful and cheap way to enjoy sightseeing on Lake Como. See time and frequency of Lake Como boats on navigazionelaghi website.

Get around
The best way to get around Esino Lario is by foot, even though the majority of the inhabitants prefer to use their cars. The taxonomy of the territory is extremely detailed; there are names not only for groups of houses (localities) but also for small areas of the forest; the detailed naming of the forest is due to the fact that the forest of Esino Lario is owned by the city council and assigned to the inhabitants making necessary to identify precisely every single slot of it.

By foot
Walking around the centre is pretty simple and there are signs for the main landmarks. Walking in the mountains can get more complicated. Trails are indicated by numbers and codified by the CAI, the Italian national mountain organisation.

By bike
There is only one bike you can use in Esino Lario and it is a mountain bike. The local mountain community and the Northern Grigna Regional Park have developed a map of bike roads and trails.



By car
The village has few major roads, and many little roads that you need to be a very careful driver to use (or at least try only with a very small car). To reach Ortanella and Cainallo a car can be convenient; Ortanella and Cainallo (specifically Vo' di Moncodeno) are the starting point for many excursions. Some mountain streets are classified "agro-silva-pastorali" (roads agro-silva-pastoral) and they can be used by cars only with an authorization.

By bus
Buses coming from Varenna make two regular stops in Esino Lario (Piazza Gulfi and Piazza Italia). During summer the bus also reaches Ortanella, and during winter there are some further stops for school children. Local travel by public bus is normally only to reach Ortanella; occasionally during summer a bus to Cainallo has been organized by the city council.

See


Although the village is small, the municipality of Esino Lario is large, with an area of 18.7 km² (7.2 sq mi) and an elevation that goes from 554 m to 2,409 m. A convenient way to visit and enjoy the territory is to browse it by area and through itineraries. You can visit the historical centres (with old buildings, churches, doors, washes and narrow alleys), the sculptures of Michele Vedani in the via Crucis and the main church of San Vittore, and the hamlets of Ortanella and Cainallo, which are departure points for further walks.

Do
Esino Lario is the perfect location for open-air actives, sports and for excursions. When it rains the best option is to enjoy a meal in a restaurant.

Activities for children
There are many excursions that are suitable for children. There are playgrounds in the centre, in Ortanella and Cainallo. Below a list of playgrounds and you can find in the description of the excursions hints for the most suitable itineraries for children. Esino Lario received the prize LavoroFamiglia (WorkFamily) of Lombardy Regione and the Catholic University in 2010 for its children-friendly territory. You can find indicated with a sticker on shops and restaurants the services for children (high chair, changing, warmer) and all restaurants and children menu (specifically designed or simply offering half portions and children-size pizza). Every summer there are activities and childcare organized in Esino Lario.

Buy


Esino Lario is definitely not a shopping centre but there are some shops for your needs (food, cigarettes, newspaper, toys for children, clothes, little presents, tools...) and where you can find some regional food specialities and little presents and souvenirs. The nearest shopping mall is Fuentes in Colico or the shops in Lecco.



It is probably also useful to know that there are two banks.

Eat
The traditional local cuisine is a simple mountain cuisine, based essentially on polenta, potatoes, dairy products, nuts and pork meat, with some specialities such as the ravioli called patole or the simple dessert called "paradell". More broadly the traditional cuisine of Lake Como, Valsassina and Valtellina includes specialities such as fish from the lake (i.e. lavarelli - whitefish, pesce persico - perch) on a white risotto, pizzoccheri and grilled pork (ribs and sausages). The local cuisine is today always mixed with Italian cuisine coming from different regions and which can satisfy also vegetarian and vegan diets and include meat dishes which do not include pork.

Drink
The coolest place to have a beer is definitely a mountain shelter, but if you can't be bothered to walk up there, you can find other places for an appetitive or a drink. Have an aperitif in a restaurant between 18:00 and 20:00 with some chips and snacks included in the cost of the drink. In some places – like the bar 58, Oasi, La Sosta – you can get a quite luxurious amount of food with focaccia, canapés and little sandwiches) and an evening beer.

Sleep
Esino Lario does not have very luxurious solutions for sleeping; the hotel with most stars is Rosa delle Alpi with 3 out of 5. To decide where to sleep it is probably more important to select where you want to stay and if you prefer accommodation right in the middle of the village (centre), in the areas of Cainallo and Ortanella (at 10-15 minutes car-ride, around 1 hour from the centre by foot, and immerse in nature) or right in the middle of the mountains in a shelter you can only reach by foot. To sleep in the mountains there are different solutions: mountain shelters managed with rooms and restaurants, or mountain shelters that are owned by city councils and which can provide a simple shelter. Camping is authorized in designated areas (or you need to ask the authorization to the city council).

Budget
There are many flats available for renting. The city council through its tourist office facilitates information about priviate apartments and houses for rent.



Stay safe
Esino Lario is a very safe location with an extremely low crime rate, and with a system to manage medical assistance and emergencies.

Wilderness
It is important to bear in mind dangers associated to mountain excursions, trekking, climbing and alpinism and to know the normal safety measures and the principles of environmental education. Lighting fires outside prone areas is prohibited, and you must put out fires with care and take all your garbage with you.

To visit the Ghiacciaia del Moncodeno (the famous cave of Moncodeno), one must have a guide and use helmets, harnesses and a head torch. The same safety procedures should be used to visit any cave in the area.

Trails and muleteers maintenance are major issues, and often those paths are not well-maintained; it can be convenient to plan excursions on the less popular trails after the annual celebrations of mountain shelters (on the occasion of the celebrations, the community takes care of the cleaning and mowing; the celebrations are usually organized in the first weeks of July) or to use trails connected to managed mountain shelters (the managers usually take care of the trails). When trails are not properly maintained they can be difficult to find, identify and follow, they can be forested, or – for muleteers – they can be flooded with rain (if they are not maintained, the banks of small streams break and the steams grow bigger, using the trail as a channel).

Emergency services
The unique emergency number is 112 (numero unico di emergenza). The service is managed in Varese and they forward requests to the appropriate service (police, carabinieri (military police), firemen, etc).



Stay healthy
The emergency number in Italy is 118; it is a centralized service. The nearest hospitals are in Lecco, Gravedona and Morbegno. Esino has a helipad in Bigallo for medical emergencies. Ambulances reach Esino Lario from Bellano and the association Soccorso Val d'Esino provides assistance and transport for medical visits.

Internet
Villa Clotilde provides free internet access and has devices for you to use.

Post
There is a post office in Esino Lario and of course mail carriers deliver there.

Telephone
The local area code is 0341; international code is +39 if calling from outside Italy (you keep the 0 when dialing a number; i.e. +390341...). Mobile operators active in the area are Tim, Tre (roaming) and Vodafone. 3G with Tim appears to be the one working at best.

Go next

 * Lake Como - Lierna, Varenna, Perledo.