Ennis

Ennis (Inis, "island") is the county town of County Clare in Ireland. It's a market town with several historic religious sites. It also has accommodation and other visitor amenities, and is the public transport hub for the county.

Understand
The O'Brien dynasty, descendants of Brian Boru, ruled this corner of Ireland when they weren't bossing it all. Your man himself was born at Killaloe on the Shannon and their bastion was in Limerick. In the 12th -century the O'Brien's relocated to Inis Cluana Rámhfhada, "island of the long rowing meadow" on the River Fergus. Here grew up a royal residence and a Franciscan Friary, and other religious centres were established in the lush surrounding countryside. Religious power was broken by the Dissolution, but Inis or Ennis continued to grow as a provincial capital under the Tudors. It never had walls, and in the 17th century when Catholics and other suspect minorities were forbidden to live in the walled cities, they came to live here and added to its prosperity. The 19th century saw the horrors of the Great Famine, and many left for North America, but Ennis' status was confirmed when Irish county government was overhauled. It remains a market town, with light industry and within commuting distance of Shannon Airport and Limerick city. In 2016 its population was 25,276, so it ranks about 12th among Ireland's largest towns.

Get in
Shannon Airport is 15 km south of Ennis, with many flights from the USA, UK and Europe. Major carriers are Aer Lingus and Ryanair. There's car rental at the airport, buses, or a taxi to Ennis town might cost €50.

Trains from Dublin Heuston run hourly to Limerick Colbert (2 hr), whence trains run to Ennis every couple of hours (40 min). Four or five of these continue to Galway.

(Be grateful that they scrapped the West Clare Railway in 1961. It meandered from Ennis to the coast, or failed to: see Kilkee for the story.)

Dublin Coach 300 (M7) runs hourly from Dublin Burgh Quay via Kildare, Limerick and Bunratty to Ennis, taking 3 hr 30 min. There's also a direct bus from Dublin Airport to Limerick.

Expressway Bus 51 runs hourly, daily from Cork via Mallow, Limerick, Bunratty and Shannon Airport to Ennis, continuing to Galway. The last bus out of Limerick is around 18:00. Don't take X51, which is nonstop between Limerick and Galway.

Bus Éireann 343 meanders hourly from Limerick via Cratloe, Bunratty, Sixmilebridge, Shannon town and airport, Newmarket-on-Fergus and Clarecastle to Ennis. The last bus is around 23:00.

Bus 333 runs from Kilkee via Milltown Malbay, Lahinch, Ennistymon and Corofin to Ennis, with six M-Sa and two on Sunday.

Bus 350 ambles along the coast from Galway six times every day, taking 3 hours via Kinvara, Ballyvaughan, Fanore, Lisdoonvarna, Doolin, Cliffs of Moher, Liscannor, Lahinch, Ennistymon, Corofin and Inagh to Ennis.

Local Link Bus R337 runs from Ennis to the Shannon Ferry pier at Killimer then continues to Kilrush, with 3 M-Sa and two on Sunday. It doesn't reach Kilkee.

By road from Dublin take M7 west, which bypasses Limerick to become N18 / M18, then heads north to Ennis and Galway.

is 500 m east of town centre. The railway station has no ticket office, but there are machines and toilets.

Get around
The town itself is compact and easily walked. Clare Abbey is a bit of a hike, and you need a car to reach Quin Abbey.

Taxi firms in town are AAA Taxis +353 65 68 92 999, and Ennis Taxis +353 65 68 23333.

See

 * commemorates his by-election victory here in 1828. As a Catholic he was unable to take his seat in the British Parliament. Prime Minister the Duke of Wellington (himself a Dubliner) had little time for Catholics but realised that this could provoke an uprising, so the Catholic Relief Act was passed in 1829. This Act wasn't retrospective so O'Connell had to seek re-election, which was unopposed. It was used as a model to end similar discrimination against Jews.
 * is on Turnpike Rd just south of the centre. Abe Grady emigrated from here in the 1860s to Kentucky, where he married an African-American woman freed from slavery. Their daughter was Odessa Lee, who married Cassius Clay Snr, whose son was Cassius Clay Jnr (1942-2016), the champion heavyweight boxer who took the name Muhammad Ali.
 * , the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, first opened in 1843. Construction has been in phases since, including in 1996 after fire damage.
 * , the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, first opened in 1843. Construction has been in phases since, including in 1996 after fire damage.
 * is a historic area 10 km northwest of Ennis, west of the road to Corofin. The church and "White Cross of St Tola" are from the 12th and 13th centuries, richly carved. The castle just north is from the 15th century, and houses Clare Archaeology Centre. A 3-km walking trail around the castle takes you past over 20 ancient monuments.
 * 10 km north of Ennis are a nature reserve fringing a lough with a ruined castle and other ancient sites.

Do

 * What's on? Listen to Clare FM on 95.2-96.6 MHz, or read Clare Champion, Clare Echo or Clare People.
 * Empire Movieplex Cinema is at 36 Parnell St.
 * glór on Causeway Link is an event space.
 * Gaelic games: the County GAA play Gaelic football and hurling at Cusack Park (capacity 14,864), on the riverbank east side of town centre.
 * Clare Garden Festival is a garden, plant and food market with more than 70 stalls, held at Ennis Showgrounds on the last Sunday in April.
 * Flead Nua is a traditional music festival held over 10 days in town in late May to early June.
 * Clare Food & Drink Fleadh in early October.
 * Ennis Trad Fest is held mid-November.

Buy

 * The Farmers Market is on Friday 08:00-14:00 in Roslevan Shopping Centre on Tulla Road.
 * Chapel Lane Market is on Saturday 10:00-17:00. All the stall goods are hand-crafted, hand-grown or home-baked.
 * Francis St north edge of the centre has Tesco and Aldi.

Eat

 * Lots of eating places in town centre. They include Tulsi (Indian) on Carmody St, Milano on O'Connell St, and Passatempo on Barrack St.
 * Poet's Corner Bar is within Old Ground Hotel, see Sleep. It's at 58 O'Connell St, open M-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 11:00-00:30, Su 12:00-23:00.
 * Town Hall Bistro is also within the hotel.
 * Town Hall Bistro is also within the hotel.

Drink

 * Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey is a single malt, still a rarity in Ireland though this one's been on the market since 1998. It's produced by Castle Brands, now part of Pernod Ricard, and they're coy about where it's actually distilled. "Somewhere in Ireland" is all the law would require.
 * Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey is a single malt, still a rarity in Ireland though this one's been on the market since 1998. It's produced by Castle Brands, now part of Pernod Ricard, and they're coy about where it's actually distilled. "Somewhere in Ireland" is all the law would require.
 * Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey is a single malt, still a rarity in Ireland though this one's been on the market since 1998. It's produced by Castle Brands, now part of Pernod Ricard, and they're coy about where it's actually distilled. "Somewhere in Ireland" is all the law would require.
 * Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey is a single malt, still a rarity in Ireland though this one's been on the market since 1998. It's produced by Castle Brands, now part of Pernod Ricard, and they're coy about where it's actually distilled. "Somewhere in Ireland" is all the law would require.

Sleep

 * Lots of small B&Bs along the main road and around the centre.
 * Auburn Lodge is a simple 3-star on Galway Road 2 km north of town.
 * Splurge at
 * Auburn Lodge is a simple 3-star on Galway Road 2 km north of town.
 * Splurge at
 * Auburn Lodge is a simple 3-star on Galway Road 2 km north of town.
 * Splurge at
 * Splurge at

Connect
As of June 2021, Ennis has 5G from all Irish carriers.

Go next

 * The coast is dramatic to the northwest around Doolin, with the Cliffs of Moher, and the strange bleak karst of The Burren.
 * Bunratty just east of the airport can feel touristy and kitsch, but it's a genuine old castle with an open-air museum.
 * Limerick is a historic city with a castle and Georgian centre, a miniature Dublin.