El Calafate

El Calafate is a town of 29,000 people (2020) in the Patagonia region of Argentina.

Understand
El Calafate has grown due to the tourist influx into Patagonia. It is set on the glacial blue Lago Argentina and is full of eager trekkers.

Climate
El Calafate's climate is cool and dry. Summers are mild and windy while winters are cold and slightly wetter. Temperatures can even drop to below freezing in the middle of summer while the strong winds, characteristic of the climate in Patagonia makes the temperatures feel colder than it should be. Snowfall occurs from May to September.

By plane


Destinations:


 * Aerolineas Argentinas has daily flights from Buenos Aires (both airports) and seasonal flights from Córdoba, Rosario, San Carlos de Bariloche, Ushuaia. On-line booking and e-tickets are available. LADE flies from many many towns throughout Argentina. During peak season, flights are usually fully booked with tourist groups. Make sure you book your flight well in advance.
 * There are also charter flights from Puerto Natales operated by DAP. These flights from the tiny airport of Puerto Natales can be very scenic and let you cross the Andes in about 90 minutes with no road travel hassle (which however in right doses is something not to be missed in Patagonia).

Getting there and away:

Right after disembarking, there are remises and transfer offices at your right side.
 * By bus – "VES" operates a bus service to any hotel in the town from the counter marked "BUS".
 * By taxi – If you prefer a private trip, there are also taxis to the city.

By bus
Buses run regularly from Chile (Puerto Natales) to Calafate and beyond (El Chalten, etc). They are comfortable, air-conditioned, and travel on paved roadways.

A quite remarkable trip is the bus connection between El Calafate and Bariloche along Ruta 40. It is mainly operated for the benefit of tourists by the Agency Chaltentravel (directly only the Calafate-Perito Moreno stage), since people of Calafate and Bariloche have very small ties between each other, which does not sound strange after you have made the journey and seen the state of the road.

Views, if the weather is good, are in places stunning, especially between Calafate and Perito Moreno city, less between Perito Moreno and Bariloche. You must however be prepared for a long (more than 10 hr daily for 2½ days) and rough trip in a small van. If you are not the kind of person who enjoys slow changes in the landscape and the beauty of lonely places, do not attempt this trip or you will regret it. Of course, if you really like this sort of thing, you will never forget the trip.

The bus trip will let you pass (and most likely stay and enjoy) through El Chalten and give an opportunity to stay in Perito Moreno from where you can organise a (long) ride to visit the "Cueva de las Manos pintadas".

Make sure you book your bus ticket out of this town, when you get there, or you can get stuck there for a couple of days.

By car
Arriving by car from Chile (Puerto Natales) is a fairly straightforward process. The road (Ruta 40) is paved the entire way—avoid any instructions by Google Maps, etc. to send you down rougher, unpaved roads.

With a rental car you will have to clear immigration and customs both going and returning, and the rental car company will need to know your plans to go to Argentina to provide you with the correct paperwork and insurance.

By rental car
Many agencies have car rental options. The international brands Hertz and Avis have offices in town, on the main road.

See

 * Onelli Bay – A perfect site and one of the most romantics areas here. You could bring a lunch box, a bottle of champagne, and enjoy a relaxing moment in the lake, or just add a piece of pure crystal ice in your drink. Around 70 km away and probably only accessible by boat.
 * Wildlife – Just walking a few blocks away from main street, like in El Cañadón, or at Laguna Nimez, and you can see all kinds of patagonic birds feet away from you. Wildlife and views, especially at dusk, make Laguna Nimez a must-see. It is perfect if you have just arrived in town, settled your next day's excursion and are eager to go see some real Patagonia.
 * Onelli Bay – A perfect site and one of the most romantics areas here. You could bring a lunch box, a bottle of champagne, and enjoy a relaxing moment in the lake, or just add a piece of pure crystal ice in your drink. Around 70 km away and probably only accessible by boat.
 * Wildlife – Just walking a few blocks away from main street, like in El Cañadón, or at Laguna Nimez, and you can see all kinds of patagonic birds feet away from you. Wildlife and views, especially at dusk, make Laguna Nimez a must-see. It is perfect if you have just arrived in town, settled your next day's excursion and are eager to go see some real Patagonia.

Do

 * There are three very expensive bus companies (90 minutes each way), leaving around 08:00 or so and one company (Cal Tur) also at 13:45. The return time is around 16:00. The bus will drop you off at the port for boat trips and take the rest onward to the glacier before coming back upon return. Try to sit on the left side of the bus for the best views of the glacier and surrounding landscape.
 * More conveniently, a taxi round trip. If there are at least three of you, it is easy maths.
 * The hideously expensive (by any standard) restaurant onsite should be avoided. Be a cheapskate and take a picnic and flask and keep smiling. Numerous places to sit and eat overlooking the glacier.
 * Boat excursion – Take a boat and see many of the glaciers and places in the Los Glaciares National Park. The colors and shapes of the icebergs floating in the lake are really awesome and inspiring, making a boat ride in a sunny day a fantastic day out. Boat trips can be booked near the restaurant—each trip lasts around 1½ hr.
 * Boat excursion – Take a boat and see many of the glaciers and places in the Los Glaciares National Park. The colors and shapes of the icebergs floating in the lake are really awesome and inspiring, making a boat ride in a sunny day a fantastic day out. Boat trips can be booked near the restaurant—each trip lasts around 1½ hr.



Buy
Food is expensive mainly due to the remote location of the city. There are several supermarkets in town, including a big chain ("Anonima") at the Eastern end of the main street, with fair prices. It remains open at least until 21:00 (except on Sunday).

Buy your food for your tours in advance, because on ruta 40 and in the glacier national park there are almost no places to buy food.

Handicraft and souvenirs can be bought in large scale at the main street.

There are plenty of ATMs in the main street. Of course, they are not all working, not all open, and not all have cash. But you will for sure find one that will deliver cash to you!

What
Patagonic Lamb (Spanish: cordero patagónico) is the main dish.

Typical barbecue (asado) is very good.

Where
Don't miss:

Go next

 * Nearby El Chalten provides excellent hiking possibilities.
 * Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park are 3½ hr driving from El Calafate and can be reached by car or bus. If going by rental car, in order to cross the border to Chile, you have to ask the car rental company to arrange the necessary paperwork and insurance.