Edinburgh/Old Town

Old Town is the original settlement of Edinburgh. At its core is the Royal Mile, the long street descending east from Castle Crag to Holyrood Palace. This medieval city was cramped for space so it built higher and higher, and stank higher still, hence its nickname of "Auld Reekie". From the 14th century it spread south to Grassmarket and Southside, north to Waverley, and west to Tolcross, and these historic districts are all described on this page.

Along with the New Town, the Old Town was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995.

iCentre the tourist office is at 249 High Street, about opposite to St Giles church. It's open M-Sa 9:30AM-1PM, 2-5PM, Su 9:30AM-2PM.

Get in
See Edinburgh for long distance routes by air, train and bus. From the airport, take the tram or Airlink Bus 100 (24 hours) to Waverley railway station.

is only 100 yards north of Old Town, and St Andrew's Square bus station another 200 yards further north. You then face a gradient to access the Royal Mile, the gentlest being across North Bridge.

Arriving from other parts of the city, most bus routes at some point traverse Old Town or Princes Street past the bus and railway stations.

Don't even think of bringing a car into Old Town unless your destination specifically offers parking. Many streets are traffic-restricted, and during the Festival any vehicle left unattended for 30 seconds will be seized by a Fringe troupe and turned into an off-beat venue. It's actually possible to stage Shakespeare in the back seats of a small car, but subsequently cleaning off the stage blood is tedious. From 1 June 2024, most of the Old Town is in a Low Emission Zone, with camera-enforced penalties for entering in a non-compliant vehicle. Cars built after 2015 are generally compliant, but check online.

Get around
Walk: distances are short, but factor in the gradients, and streets that bridge Cowgate without an intersection.

High Street, the upper part of Royal Mile, is a pedestrian zone. Frequent buses cross it north-south: at the top from Forrest Rd and George IV Bridge to descend the Mound into New Town, and at South Bridge towards Waverley station. See Edinburgh for using the buses.

Bus 35 runs along Canongate the lower part every 30 min, from Heriot Watt University west edge of the city through Tolcross, Lauriston Place, Chambers St, South Bridge, Canongate, Holyrood Palace, Abbeyhill and north to Leith. Other services through Tolcross and Lauriston Place go over George IV Bridge to the Mound.

Bus 2 runs from Hermiston west edge of the city every 20-30 min to Haymarket, Lothian Rd, Grassmarket and Potterrow to join Nicholson St by the Festival Theatre and head south.

Royal Mile
This is the original spine of the city. Glaciers from the west 20,000 years ago divided at the immovable volcanic plug of Castle Rock, and dumped debris behind as a ridge descending east. Measuring 1.12 miles / 1.807 km, it's the route between castle and palace. The best of it is the upper cobbled, traffic-restricted stretch called Castlehill, Lawnmarket then High Street, down to the intersection with North and South Bridges. Much is Georgian, as a great fire in 1824 destroyed many medieval buildings.
 * The Esplanade is the parade square in front of the castle, normally free to access in daylight hours, lined with monuments to bygone military campaigns and with good views of the city. However the Edinburgh Tattoo and other events are staged here, so access is restricted then, and views are cramped by temporary banks of seating.
 * Tolbooth Kirk or The Hub is the confident Victorian Gothic church at the foot of Castlehill. It was never consecrated, but held religious and secular meetings and church services in English and Gaelic until 1979. From 1999 it's served as the Festival's offices, ticket kiosks and small performance space.
 * Tolbooth Kirk or The Hub is the confident Victorian Gothic church at the foot of Castlehill. It was never consecrated, but held religious and secular meetings and church services in English and Gaelic until 1979. From 1999 it's served as the Festival's offices, ticket kiosks and small performance space.
 * Closes are alleys descending steeply on both sides of the Royal Mile in a fishbone pattern, often named for a famous resident. They've come and gone over the centuries and some 80 still exist. Strictly a "close" was a private entrance with a locked gate, but some were public passageways, and a wynd was wide enough for a horse and cart. They're gloomy beneath the ancient tall buildings, and a favourite of "Haunted Edinburgh" ghost tours.
 * Heart of Midlothian is a mosaic set in the pavement outside St Giles, marking the entrance to the former Tolbooth. This originated in the 14th century as the city and national council chamber, but by the 18th century was a dilapidated jail, torture chamber and scene of public executions. Walter Scott's novel Heart of Midlothian describes it during the Porteous Riots of 1736, and he purloined its iron door and key when it was demolished in 1817. It's customary (though discouraged even pre-Covid) to spit upon the mosaic heart for good luck. In the 1870s a group of lads played football in the broad streets hereabout, until a policeman shooed them away to play on the spacious Meadows. They became Heart of Midlothian FC now based at Tynecastle but who have not forgotten their roots, as their players are often seen to spit.
 * Old Parliament Hall is the elegant building behind St Giles. It was built in the 1630s and housed the Scottish Parliament until 1707 when that was superseded by the UK Parliament in London. It was partly built over medieval graveyards, so John Knox (1514-72), founder of the stern Presbyterian church, was buried in St Giles graveyard and now finds himself out in the cobbled square. The Hall nowadays hosts the Scottish Supreme Courts, so there's no entrance unless you're in big trouble.
 * City Chambers is the magnificent mansion set back from High St opposite St Giles, completed in 1760. It was intended as an Exchange but the merchants persisted striking their deals at Mercat Cross across the road. It's now home to City of Edinburgh Council. No tours, and it feels churlish to traipse into this grandeur to complain about your bin collections.
 * stands at the intersection of High Street and North Bridge. It was completed in 1641 but disused as a church since 1952, and is nowadays an indoor market. The square outside has long been a market - the "tron" was the weighing beam for goods - and gathering place. Traditionally you saw in the New Year at Hogmanay here, but modern crowds are way too big and the council has tried to divert them elsewhere.
 * , completed in 1897, soars for 525 feet (160 m) in three spans above Waverley railway station to connect Old and New Towns. It normally commands excellent views west towards the castle and east along the coast to Bass Rock. Repair work until mid-2024 spoils this as there are construction barriers, and the west side pavement is closed so the east side is crowded.
 * City Chambers is the magnificent mansion set back from High St opposite St Giles, completed in 1760. It was intended as an Exchange but the merchants persisted striking their deals at Mercat Cross across the road. It's now home to City of Edinburgh Council. No tours, and it feels churlish to traipse into this grandeur to complain about your bin collections.
 * stands at the intersection of High Street and North Bridge. It was completed in 1641 but disused as a church since 1952, and is nowadays an indoor market. The square outside has long been a market - the "tron" was the weighing beam for goods - and gathering place. Traditionally you saw in the New Year at Hogmanay here, but modern crowds are way too big and the council has tried to divert them elsewhere.
 * , completed in 1897, soars for 525 feet (160 m) in three spans above Waverley railway station to connect Old and New Towns. It normally commands excellent views west towards the castle and east along the coast to Bass Rock. Repair work until mid-2024 spoils this as there are construction barriers, and the west side pavement is closed so the east side is crowded.
 * Scotsman Steps at the top end of the bridge are a spiral shortcut to the station, best not attempted with luggage. Since 2011 each of the 104 steps is of different marble representing all the major quarries of the world. It's a mercy they dropped the plan for each step to play a different tune.
 * Canongate is the narrow lower section of the Royal Mile, which lay beyond the city walls and was separately governed by the canons (priests) of Holyrood Abbey at its foot. No extradition, so once you legged it across the boundary, the city bailiffs couldn't touch you. There's lots to see here but it's less scenic, and through-traffic is permitted so it can feel ratty.
 * Canongate is the narrow lower section of the Royal Mile, which lay beyond the city walls and was separately governed by the canons (priests) of Holyrood Abbey at its foot. No extradition, so once you legged it across the boundary, the city bailiffs couldn't touch you. There's lots to see here but it's less scenic, and through-traffic is permitted so it can feel ratty.
 * Physic Garden by the palace entrance is part of the complex, but free to access same hours.
 * Physic Garden by the palace entrance is part of the complex, but free to access same hours.
 * Physic Garden by the palace entrance is part of the complex, but free to access same hours.
 * Physic Garden by the palace entrance is part of the complex, but free to access same hours.
 * Physic Garden by the palace entrance is part of the complex, but free to access same hours.

Grassmarket and Southside
The Old Town spread into the dank hollow south of the castle by the 14th century, and Grassmarket was the livestock market, cheap housing and place of execution. Further extension brought it to the edge of the South Loch, and this district acquired University and civic buildings, mostly Victorian. That loch is now The Meadows, described as part of Edinburgh/South.
 * is a long cobbled plaza, nowadays lined with eating places and accommodation. Until it went swiftly upmarket in the 1980s, this was home to many down-and-outs, notoriously at the flophouse of Number 75 the Castle Trades Hotel.
 * West Port is the west extension of Grassmarket, once a gateway into Old Town. In 1828 it was the abode of Burke and Hare, who preyed upon the vulnerable, got them drunk, suffocated them then sold the fresh bodies to Dr Robert Knox for dissection. Knox paid good money and asked no questions, delighted to buy their goods instead of the pungent merchandise of grave robbers.
 * Tolcross further west is a busy intersection with many eating places. Lothian Road leads down past Usher Hall to the west end of Princes Street in New Town.
 * is a Victorian drinking fountain (disconnected) topped by the statue of the dog that for 14 years kept watch at its master's grave in Greyfriars. It was owned by John Gray a nightwatchman; in 1872 it died and was in turn buried there. The statue was erected the following year and has been surrounded by a knot of tourists ever since. The statue depicts a Skye terrier, but original photos indicate Bobby was a Dandie Dinmount.
 * is a Victorian drinking fountain (disconnected) topped by the statue of the dog that for 14 years kept watch at its master's grave in Greyfriars. It was owned by John Gray a nightwatchman; in 1872 it died and was in turn buried there. The statue was erected the following year and has been surrounded by a knot of tourists ever since. The statue depicts a Skye terrier, but original photos indicate Bobby was a Dandie Dinmount.
 * is a Victorian drinking fountain (disconnected) topped by the statue of the dog that for 14 years kept watch at its master's grave in Greyfriars. It was owned by John Gray a nightwatchman; in 1872 it died and was in turn buried there. The statue was erected the following year and has been surrounded by a knot of tourists ever since. The statue depicts a Skye terrier, but original photos indicate Bobby was a Dandie Dinmount.
 * is a Victorian drinking fountain (disconnected) topped by the statue of the dog that for 14 years kept watch at its master's grave in Greyfriars. It was owned by John Gray a nightwatchman; in 1872 it died and was in turn buried there. The statue was erected the following year and has been surrounded by a knot of tourists ever since. The statue depicts a Skye terrier, but original photos indicate Bobby was a Dandie Dinmount.
 * Candlemaker Row is the colourful street descending from Greyfriars Kirk to Grassmarket.
 * is a secluded square with Georgian buildings on its west and east side - the University bashed down those north and south in the 1960s. Its bosky garden is popular with sun-lounging students, and in August is taken over by pop-up Fringe venues.
 * Middle Meadow Walk west side of the square descends from Forrest Rd onto The Meadows.
 * Quartermile is now the name of the long baronial edifice on Lauriston Place just west of the Medical School. From 1872 to 2003 it was the Royal Infirmary, site of the world's first successful kidney transplant in 1960 and the first coronary care unit in 1964. The Infirmary then moved to Little France on the southeast edge of then city and these buildings have multiple office and academic tenants.
 * Middle Meadow Walk west side of the square descends from Forrest Rd onto The Meadows.
 * Quartermile is now the name of the long baronial edifice on Lauriston Place just west of the Medical School. From 1872 to 2003 it was the Royal Infirmary, site of the world's first successful kidney transplant in 1960 and the first coronary care unit in 1964. The Infirmary then moved to Little France on the southeast edge of then city and these buildings have multiple office and academic tenants.

Waverley
The railway tracks now carve between Old and New Towns. But just as the Old Town spread south into Grassmarket, it also spread north into the downbeat district of Waverley, part low-rent housing and part stinking midden, until the railway obliterated most of it. "The Mound" is the spoil heap from building New Town that became a thoroughfare from Old Town.
 * New College looks down upon the Mound. It was opened in 1846 as the seminary for Free Church ministers and is now part of the University of Edinburgh School of Divinity. You can look in on the courtyard, where the statue of John Knox is launching into another polemic against women: "For their sight in civile regiment, is but blindness: their strength, weakness: their counsel, foolishness: and judgement, phrenesie . . . "
 * New College looks down upon the Mound. It was opened in 1846 as the seminary for Free Church ministers and is now part of the University of Edinburgh School of Divinity. You can look in on the courtyard, where the statue of John Knox is launching into another polemic against women: "For their sight in civile regiment, is but blindness: their strength, weakness: their counsel, foolishness: and judgement, phrenesie . . . "
 * New College looks down upon the Mound. It was opened in 1846 as the seminary for Free Church ministers and is now part of the University of Edinburgh School of Divinity. You can look in on the courtyard, where the statue of John Knox is launching into another polemic against women: "For their sight in civile regiment, is but blindness: their strength, weakness: their counsel, foolishness: and judgement, phrenesie . . . "
 * New College looks down upon the Mound. It was opened in 1846 as the seminary for Free Church ministers and is now part of the University of Edinburgh School of Divinity. You can look in on the courtyard, where the statue of John Knox is launching into another polemic against women: "For their sight in civile regiment, is but blindness: their strength, weakness: their counsel, foolishness: and judgement, phrenesie . . . "
 * New College looks down upon the Mound. It was opened in 1846 as the seminary for Free Church ministers and is now part of the University of Edinburgh School of Divinity. You can look in on the courtyard, where the statue of John Knox is launching into another polemic against women: "For their sight in civile regiment, is but blindness: their strength, weakness: their counsel, foolishness: and judgement, phrenesie . . . "

Holyrood Park
This scenic park south and east of Holyrood Palace was created by King James VI in the 16th century. It's dominated by the volcanic mount of Arthur's Seat, and ringed by small lochs. All park roads are closed to vehicles Sa Su 8AM-3:30PM though cyclists are still permitted, and traffic can go as far as the car parks at Broad Pavement, Meadowbank and Duddingston. The High Road (the loop of Queen's Drive over the east flank) is only open to vehicles Tu-Th 9:30AM-3PM and is one-way clockwise. Roads may be closed at other times for events such as marathons and the annual toad migration: in March they emerge from hibernation on the hill and crawl down to the lochs across the roads.
 * broods over Old Town and is visible from afar as a crouching lion. It's the main vent of a volcano that erupted 340 million years ago, with side vents adjacent (Whinny Hill or Lion's Haunch) and at Calton Hill and Castle Rock. It's 823 ft / 251 m high, and the simplest ascent is from the east, a ten minute stroll from Dunsapie Loch car park on the High Road. Feel free to approach instead from the city-facing west, the "Gutted Haddie" steep scramble, with the tourist ahead knocking cobbles down on your skull. The view from the top takes in the city, the Firth of Forth and hills of Fife, and the line of other volcanic plugs out to the Bass Rock that spurted from the same fault movement. The connection with King Arthur is tenuous: early Britons spoke a language closer to Welsh than Gaelic, and Arthur is first mentioned in the saga of Y Gododdin recounting heroism (and heroic mead-drinking) in these northern hills.
 * are basalt cliffs to the west, dramatic seen from the city at sunset, upthrust millions of years after the volcano was extinct. They are suffering erosion, and since a rockfall in 2018 rock climbing is no longer permitted, and the "Radical Road" path between cliff and talus slope is closed.
 * is a scenic but scrappy 14th century ruin, with only one wall remaining. It stands above St Margaret's Loch, created in 1856 as Prince Albert thought it would improve the view.
 * : see Edinburgh/East for this charming hamlet and small loch at the southeast edge of the park.

Do



 * Walking tours explore the The Royal Mile and its dark alleys and even darker history. They include Literary Pub Tour, Walk Food Tour, Cadies and Witchery, City of the Dead, Local Eyes, Witches Tour, City of Edinburgh Tours, Mercat Tours and Auld Reekie Tours.
 * Stramash is a live music venue at 207 Cowgate, at the foot of Blair St, on two levels with a capacity of 900.
 * Walking tours explore the The Royal Mile and its dark alleys and even darker history. They include Literary Pub Tour, Walk Food Tour, Cadies and Witchery, City of the Dead, Local Eyes, Witches Tour, City of Edinburgh Tours, Mercat Tours and Auld Reekie Tours.
 * Stramash is a live music venue at 207 Cowgate, at the foot of Blair St, on two levels with a capacity of 900.
 * Stramash is a live music venue at 207 Cowgate, at the foot of Blair St, on two levels with a capacity of 900.
 * Edinburgh Filmhouse opposite Usher Hall was an arthouse cinema, but folded in 2022. It's now received fresh funding and may re-open in late 2024.
 * Edinburgh Filmhouse opposite Usher Hall was an arthouse cinema, but folded in 2022. It's now received fresh funding and may re-open in late 2024.
 * Edinburgh Filmhouse opposite Usher Hall was an arthouse cinema, but folded in 2022. It's now received fresh funding and may re-open in late 2024.

Buy

 * Supermarkets: no big ones here, but smaller outlets for food such as Tesco Express line Nicholson St and Tolcross, mostly open daily. The nearest big mall is Cameron Toll 3 miles south.
 * Small independent shops are found around Victoria Street, Grassmarket and Cockburn Street; those on the Royal Mile are often tourist-traps.
 * Farmers Market is held Sa 9AM-2PM on the NCP car park on Castle Terrace, 100 yards east of Usher Hall.
 * Farmers Market is held Sa 9AM-2PM on the NCP car park on Castle Terrace, 100 yards east of Usher Hall.
 * Farmers Market is held Sa 9AM-2PM on the NCP car park on Castle Terrace, 100 yards east of Usher Hall.
 * Farmers Market is held Sa 9AM-2PM on the NCP car park on Castle Terrace, 100 yards east of Usher Hall.
 * Farmers Market is held Sa 9AM-2PM on the NCP car park on Castle Terrace, 100 yards east of Usher Hall.
 * Farmers Market is held Sa 9AM-2PM on the NCP car park on Castle Terrace, 100 yards east of Usher Hall.

Budget

 * Inexpensive eating places cluster along South Bridge / Nicolson Street / Clerk Street (one long street, the old road to Carlisle), along Forrest Rd, and at Tolcross to the west.


 * Mosque Kitchen is at 31 Nicholson Square (across from Kebab Mahal), open daily 11:30AM-10PM.
 * Oink are a budget chain serving pulled pork sandwiches, nothing else, no chips, no crisps, no sides. They're at 34 Victoria Street opposite Bow Bar, 82 Canongate by the Scottish Parliament, and Hanover St in New Town. They're all open daily from 11AM until they sell out mid-afternoon.
 * Mosque Kitchen is at 31 Nicholson Square (across from Kebab Mahal), open daily 11:30AM-10PM.
 * Oink are a budget chain serving pulled pork sandwiches, nothing else, no chips, no crisps, no sides. They're at 34 Victoria Street opposite Bow Bar, 82 Canongate by the Scottish Parliament, and Hanover St in New Town. They're all open daily from 11AM until they sell out mid-afternoon.
 * Oink are a budget chain serving pulled pork sandwiches, nothing else, no chips, no crisps, no sides. They're at 34 Victoria Street opposite Bow Bar, 82 Canongate by the Scottish Parliament, and Hanover St in New Town. They're all open daily from 11AM until they sell out mid-afternoon.
 * Oink are a budget chain serving pulled pork sandwiches, nothing else, no chips, no crisps, no sides. They're at 34 Victoria Street opposite Bow Bar, 82 Canongate by the Scottish Parliament, and Hanover St in New Town. They're all open daily from 11AM until they sell out mid-afternoon.

Pubs

 * Royal Mile and Grassmarket pubs are often tourist traps or mobbed with stag and hen parties getting ratted. Here are some worth visiting:



Nightclubs

 * Mostly along Cowgate, running east from Grassmarket beneath George IV Bridge and South Bridge.


 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Holyrood distillery is at 19 St Leonard's Lane, see Edinburgh/South.

Budget

 * Kick Ass Grassmarket is their other hostel at 2 West Port EH1 2JA, similar price and quality.
 * High Street Hostel at 8 Blackfriars St is the best of those on that street, descending behind Radisson Blu. Others at its foot on Cowgate are A&O Hostel and Edinburgh Metro.
 * Kick Ass Grassmarket is their other hostel at 2 West Port EH1 2JA, similar price and quality.
 * High Street Hostel at 8 Blackfriars St is the best of those on that street, descending behind Radisson Blu. Others at its foot on Cowgate are A&O Hostel and Edinburgh Metro.

Mid-range

 * KM Hotel and apartments are at 5 Richmond Place round the corner from Ten Hill Place. They're among several run by the University of Edinburgh, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Travelodge Edinburgh Central is at 33 St Mary's St round the corner from Holiday Inn.
 * KM Hotel and apartments are at 5 Richmond Place round the corner from Ten Hill Place. They're among several run by the University of Edinburgh, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Travelodge Edinburgh Central is at 33 St Mary's St round the corner from Holiday Inn.
 * KM Hotel and apartments are at 5 Richmond Place round the corner from Ten Hill Place. They're among several run by the University of Edinburgh, see Edinburgh/South.
 * Travelodge Edinburgh Central is at 33 St Mary's St round the corner from Holiday Inn.
 * Travelodge Edinburgh Central is at 33 St Mary's St round the corner from Holiday Inn.
 * Travelodge Edinburgh Central is at 33 St Mary's St round the corner from Holiday Inn.
 * Premier Inn has another hotel at 82 Lauriston Place next to Novotel. Similar quality and price to their branch on Market St.
 * Premier Inn has another hotel at 82 Lauriston Place next to Novotel. Similar quality and price to their branch on Market St.
 * Premier Inn has another hotel at 82 Lauriston Place next to Novotel. Similar quality and price to their branch on Market St.
 * Premier Inn has another hotel at 82 Lauriston Place next to Novotel. Similar quality and price to their branch on Market St.
 * Premier Inn has another hotel at 82 Lauriston Place next to Novotel. Similar quality and price to their branch on Market St.
 * Premier Inn has another hotel at 82 Lauriston Place next to Novotel. Similar quality and price to their branch on Market St.

Connect
Public libraries have internet stations and other resources, but you need a card to access them - see Edinburgh for how to do this.

Central Library (above) is the only one in Old Town, at 7 George IV Bridge opposite the National Library. There are some 30 branches across the city.

Go next

 * All of the city can be easily reached from Old Town, but the obvious area to explore next is New Town, with Princes Street its main boulevard.
 * South Edinburgh starts from the Meadows. Quieter parts are Blackford Hill and the Pentlands rearing up at the city's edge.
 * Bus 29 and trains towards Tweedbank take you to the National Mining Museum at Gorebridge.