Edinburgh/New Town

New Town of Edinburgh is 250 years old, in contrast to the Old Town settled for over a thousand years. It was laid out on a grid pattern in the late 18th century with elegant Georgian townhouses, and the intervening loch was drained to become Princes Street Gardens. It's nowadays Edinburgh's main shopping and commercial district.

Along with Old Town, the New Town was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995.

Understand


By the 1600s Edinburgh was crowded and filthy within the walls of the Old Town. The Duke of Albany and York held his nose at it in Holyrood Palace and backed a plan to extend north. But he left town to become the unpopular King James VII / II, was ousted from his throne and launched a series of "Jacobite" counter-coups to regain it, so his support was toxic. The city continued to fester on its crag and to dump its sewage into the Nor Loch. A fresh start was made in the 18th century: the 1707 Union with England made a defensive position unnecessary, and was drawing away the most prosperous and influential people to live in London. Edinburgh needed to re-invent itself as a place to live and work.

In 1767 the council adopted the plans of a young architect James Craig (1739-1795). These covered the area that became Princes St, George St and Queen St, and created the grid pattern you see today. By 1820 this tract was populated by expensive private homes, by different builders with individual designs. Charlotte Square at the west end of George Street is the finest example of this first phase, designed by Robert Adam. Streets were added to the north (Great King Street being the best) and northwest (where Moray Place is a superb circle of mansions). Connections were made across the valley to Old Town by a bridge (replaced by the present North Bridge in 1897) and a midway embankment, The Mound. The West End was built in the 1860s and 1870s.

Shared private gardens were a major part of the plans - Princes Street Gardens began this way, and its owners prevented any construction south of the street that might spoil their view. They likewise tried to prevent the railway from linking the east and west terminuses but were defeated by 1846. These gardens and St Andrew Square are now public parks, but many remain private, such as Queen Street Gardens, Dean Gardens, and the centres of many squares and crescents.

The original tract between Princes Street and Queen Street is now mainly shops and offices and has lost many original buildings. Princes Street itself is a sorry contrast: its view south, central Mound and bookending railway hotels are grand, but the retail strip along its north side is utterly mediocre. East of St Andrew Square was redeveloped for the drab St James shopping centre, and the street pattern was obliterated. The rest of New Town is still mainly residential, though its original townhouses have mostly been divided into flats.

Get in
is at the east end of Princes St, with trains from all parts: see Edinburgh for routes.

Buses and trams from the airport stop outside Waverley station. The tram continues northwest to Leith and local buses fan out to all parts of the city.

is 200 yards north of Waverley, terminus of all inter-city buses.

is more convenient for the west end of New Town. All trains from the west (for instance Glasgow) stop here.

Never bring a car into New Town unless you've planned ahead for where you might park. From 1 June 2024, most of the New Town is in a Low Emission Zone, with camera-enforced penalties for entering in a non-compliant vehicle. Cars built after 2015 are generally compliant, but check online.

Walking is usually the best way to get around New Town, but it extends 2 miles east-west, and then there's the slopes up to the Old Town or down towards Stockbridge to be negotiated.

Do

 * are a large events venue at 54 George St. This grand neoclassical building was completed in 1787, with the inaugural event a Hunt Ball. Its principal spaces are the Music Room (capacity 788) and the Ball Room (capacity 400), with nine other classily decorated rooms. It's in constant use for private and public functions and a major site during the Festival. The building is owned by the council but run by a separate company.
 * Water of Leith Walkway follows the stream from Balerno at the southwest edge of the city down through Colinton, Saughton and Murrayfield, to flow under the Glasgow road and form the boundary of New Town. Follow the east / south bank under Coltbridge Viaduct and Belford Bridge, crossing banks and continuing into Dean Village. The following section is described as part of Stockbridge and the final stretch as part of  Leith. The New Town and Stockbridge sections are too narrow for cycling, cut onto adjacent streets. Use the layers button (Inkscape icons dialog layers.svg below the full screen button) and activate "Hiking" to see the walkway on the map.
 * Water of Leith Walkway follows the stream from Balerno at the southwest edge of the city down through Colinton, Saughton and Murrayfield, to flow under the Glasgow road and form the boundary of New Town. Follow the east / south bank under Coltbridge Viaduct and Belford Bridge, crossing banks and continuing into Dean Village. The following section is described as part of Stockbridge and the final stretch as part of  Leith. The New Town and Stockbridge sections are too narrow for cycling, cut onto adjacent streets. Use the layers button (Inkscape icons dialog layers.svg below the full screen button) and activate "Hiking" to see the walkway on the map.
 * Water of Leith Walkway follows the stream from Balerno at the southwest edge of the city down through Colinton, Saughton and Murrayfield, to flow under the Glasgow road and form the boundary of New Town. Follow the east / south bank under Coltbridge Viaduct and Belford Bridge, crossing banks and continuing into Dean Village. The following section is described as part of Stockbridge and the final stretch as part of  Leith. The New Town and Stockbridge sections are too narrow for cycling, cut onto adjacent streets. Use the layers button (Inkscape icons dialog layers.svg below the full screen button) and activate "Hiking" to see the walkway on the map.
 * Water of Leith Walkway follows the stream from Balerno at the southwest edge of the city down through Colinton, Saughton and Murrayfield, to flow under the Glasgow road and form the boundary of New Town. Follow the east / south bank under Coltbridge Viaduct and Belford Bridge, crossing banks and continuing into Dean Village. The following section is described as part of Stockbridge and the final stretch as part of  Leith. The New Town and Stockbridge sections are too narrow for cycling, cut onto adjacent streets. Use the layers button (Inkscape icons dialog layers.svg below the full screen button) and activate "Hiking" to see the walkway on the map.

Princes Street

 * This is the main shopping street in Edinburgh, running from Waverley railway station to Lothian Road. Lots of chain stores here. George Street 200 yards north has more upmarket shops, plus bars and restaurants.


 * Multrees Walk is a mall just south of the bus station, connecting St James Quarter with St Andrew Square. Stores here include Harvey Nichols, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Canada Goose.
 * Dundas St is the north continuation of Hanover St, descending to Canonmills. Its upper section is lined with art galleries: these are commercial selling galleries (hours vary) but they're happy for you just to browse around. They include Open Eye, Arusha, Scottish Gallery, Greyfriars Art, Birch Tree, Torrance Gallery and Fettes Fine Art. Lower down are several antique shops.
 * West End of Princes St has a retail strip in the block bounded by Queensferry St, Shandwick Place, William Street and Stafford Street.
 * Dundas St is the north continuation of Hanover St, descending to Canonmills. Its upper section is lined with art galleries: these are commercial selling galleries (hours vary) but they're happy for you just to browse around. They include Open Eye, Arusha, Scottish Gallery, Greyfriars Art, Birch Tree, Torrance Gallery and Fettes Fine Art. Lower down are several antique shops.
 * West End of Princes St has a retail strip in the block bounded by Queensferry St, Shandwick Place, William Street and Stafford Street.
 * West End of Princes St has a retail strip in the block bounded by Queensferry St, Shandwick Place, William Street and Stafford Street.

Broughton Street

 * This is a boho street at the northeast end of New Town, with a variety of independent shops, bars and restaurants.



Leith Walk

 * This descends from the east end of Princes St and runs all the way down to Leith, with the trams rumbling along it.



Mid-range

 * Aizle, opened in 2021, is modern Scottish cuisine. It's at 38 Charlotte Square and open W-Su 5-9PM.
 * Noto at 47a Thistle St is sister to Aizle. They serve excellent Japanese-themed dishes for sharing; open Su-Th noon-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight.
 * The Lookout is a cafe and restaurant perched atop Calton Hill, with cuisine to match the panoramic views. It's open Th-Su noon-11PM.
 * Number 11 is a hotel brasserie (see Sleep) at 11 Brunswick St, serving non-residents W-F 5-9PM, Sa Su noon-3PM, 5-9PM.
 * Aizle, opened in 2021, is modern Scottish cuisine. It's at 38 Charlotte Square and open W-Su 5-9PM.
 * Noto at 47a Thistle St is sister to Aizle. They serve excellent Japanese-themed dishes for sharing; open Su-Th noon-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight.
 * The Lookout is a cafe and restaurant perched atop Calton Hill, with cuisine to match the panoramic views. It's open Th-Su noon-11PM.
 * Number 11 is a hotel brasserie (see Sleep) at 11 Brunswick St, serving non-residents W-F 5-9PM, Sa Su noon-3PM, 5-9PM.
 * Aizle, opened in 2021, is modern Scottish cuisine. It's at 38 Charlotte Square and open W-Su 5-9PM.
 * Noto at 47a Thistle St is sister to Aizle. They serve excellent Japanese-themed dishes for sharing; open Su-Th noon-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight.
 * The Lookout is a cafe and restaurant perched atop Calton Hill, with cuisine to match the panoramic views. It's open Th-Su noon-11PM.
 * Number 11 is a hotel brasserie (see Sleep) at 11 Brunswick St, serving non-residents W-F 5-9PM, Sa Su noon-3PM, 5-9PM.
 * Number 11 is a hotel brasserie (see Sleep) at 11 Brunswick St, serving non-residents W-F 5-9PM, Sa Su noon-3PM, 5-9PM.
 * Number 11 is a hotel brasserie (see Sleep) at 11 Brunswick St, serving non-residents W-F 5-9PM, Sa Su noon-3PM, 5-9PM.

Splurge

 * The Balmoral above Waverley Station (see Sleep) has three dining areas:
 * Palm Court serves afternoon tea daily 9AM-5PM, with live harp music.
 * Brasserie Prince is a slick French-style bistro, daily 7AM-10PM.
 * Number One is fine dining, modern Scots, Th-M 6-9:30PM.
 * George Hotel main restaurant The Printing Press has closed for rebuilding until 2025. Le Petit Beefbar is their steakhouse open daily 12:30-3:30PM, 5:30-9:30PM. Burr & Co coffee shop only serves dinner to residents.
 * Waldorf Astoria west end of Princes St (see Sleep) has two restaurants:
 * Grazing is modern Scottish fare (chef Mark Greenaway), Tu-Sa 6-9PM.
 * The Pompadour is continental cuisine (chef Dean Banks), Th 5PM-midnight, F-Su noon-3PM, 5-PM-midnight.

Drink

 * George Street is the main drinking strip, along with the St Andrews Square area, the cross streets, and the two parallel pedestrian alleys Rose St south and Thistle / Hill / Young St north. Those alleys in turn have sub-alley loops, where dazed stag and hen parties mill and meander.


 * The Alexander Graham Bell is another JD Wetherspoon, at 128 George Street near Charlotte Square.
 * Broughton Street northeast side of New Town has a wide range of bars.
 * The Alexander Graham Bell is another JD Wetherspoon, at 128 George Street near Charlotte Square.
 * Broughton Street northeast side of New Town has a wide range of bars.
 * Broughton Street northeast side of New Town has a wide range of bars.


 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.
 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.
 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.
 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.
 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.
 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.
 * Johnnie Walker is the traditional budget blended whisky of the working man. See Kilmarnock for its history, but that plant has closed down, and it's nowadays made in Glasgow and Leven, and owned by Diageo. The tour centre at 145 Princes St (opposite Waldorf Astoria) reinvents it as a jazzy upmarket experience. Basic tour £30, which would almost buy you two bottles of Red Label to stotious effect.

Budget

 * Premier Inn Waverley is another branch at 24 Rose St.
 * Premier Inn Waverley is another branch at 24 Rose St.
 * Premier Inn Waverley is another branch at 24 Rose St.
 * Premier Inn Waverley is another branch at 24 Rose St.
 * Premier Inn Waverley is another branch at 24 Rose St.

Mid-range

 * Malmaison is at 22 St Andrew Square opposite Ibis Styles. Poor reviews for its ill-lit cramped rooms with nowhere to put your stuff.

Splurge

 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.
 * Gleneagles Townhouse is at 39 St Andrews Square next to The Edinburgh Grand. Fine decor but poor service.

Connect
New Town like the rest of Edinburgh has 5G from all UK carriers, and Wifi is widely available.

All public libraries have internet and printing facilities, see Edinburgh for how to access these. There are no branches within New Town, those close by are Central Library on George IV Bridge in Old Town, Stockbridge, and Macdonald Road going down Leith Walk.

Go next

 * Old Town is the unmissable medieval core of Edinburgh, with the Royal Mile stretching from castle to palace.
 * Stockbridge has the extensive Botanic Gardens.
 * Murrayfield rugby stadiums and Hearts football ground are within walking distance to the west.
 * Day trips out of town are easily made from the railway and bus stations, see Edinburgh for suggestions.