Dunbar

Dunbar is a harbour town in East Lothian, on the south-east coast of central Scotland. In 2021 its population was 10,400.

Understand
The original medieval harbour lay a couple of miles west, where the Biel Water flows out: that was "Belhaven" where the brewery now stands. Oliver Cromwell was unimpressed by its muddy creek and ordered construction of the harbour in Dunbar that bears his name. This in turn was outgrown by the 19th century, when the Victoria Harbour was created alongside. This necessitated cutting through the red sandstone of the headland, so it's a striking harbour entrance, with what's left of the castle teetering above it.

Dunbar was the birthplace of the conservationist John Muir (1838-1914). Local natural features and wildlife had already fascinated him by age 11 when his family moved to the USA. There he was to discover the wilds and set about their preservation through the agency of the United States national parks.

Visitor information

 * Dunbar Visitor Information website

By car
Dunbar is on A1087, a loop north of the A1 London-Newcastle Upon Tyne-Edinburgh road. The town is 30 miles (48 km) east of Edinburgh and 28 miles (45 km) northwest of the English border at Berwick-upon-Tweed.

By bicycle
Cyclists may use the A1 at this point, but from Edinburgh must use the old road A199 alongside until Dunbar.

By bus
East Coast Bus X7 runs along A1 between Edinburgh and Dunbar, every 30 minutes M-F and hourly Sa Su, taking 80 min. Borders Bus 253 also runs hourly from Edinburgh via Haddington to Dunbar, and every two hours continues to Cockpurnspath, Grantshouse, Eyemouth, Burnmouth and Berwick-upon-Tweed.

Bus 106 runs hourly from Fort Kinnaird shopping centre at the south edge of Edinburgh via Musselburgh, Wallyford, Tranent, Macmerry, Haddington, East Linton and Dunbar.

Night bus N106 runs after shortly midnight F Sa from Edinburgh to Musselburgh then the same route to Dunbar.

There isn't a bus station, buses stop along Belhaven Rd and High Street and then terminate at Asda on the south side of town.

By rail


Dunbar is on the East Coast Mainline from London King's Cross to Edinburgh, but those trains just flash through. You need to change at York or Newcastle upon Tyne for the Cross-Country trains coming up from the East Midlands and stopping at Dunbar every couple of hours on their way towards Edinburgh. There's also a local train between Dunbar and Edinburgh, so this connection is hourly, taking 20 minutes.

Get around

 * The town is compact, but you need wheels to reach Torness and explore the scenic coast.
 * Taxi firms in town are Torrance (+44 1368 862612), Redline (+44 1368 864640) and WB (+44 1368 862333}.
 * Belhaven Bikes do repairs and bike hire. They're at Rigg Service Station on Belhaven Rd, open Tu-Sa 9AM-5:30PM.

See

 * Lauderdale House at the foot of High Street was a mansion of 1730, extended by the Adams, and converted to a barracks in 1855. It's now private apartments.
 * The harbours are scenic. A drawbridge spans the channel between Cromwell and Victoria harbours - vehicles may use this for unloading, but don't park on the outer pier, and the bridge is usually agape in winter. The battery was built in 1781 to repel privateers.
 * is a five metre steel mesh sculpture of a brown bear rearing up on its hind legs. Erected in 2019 at the south edge of town, it commemorates Yosemite and other US wildernesses protected by John Muir, but it looks like it's minded to raid ASDA supermarket next door.
 * is a gnarly stump 5 miles east of town. It was built in the 14th century; in the 17th the Covenanters used as a base to harry Cromwell.
 * Bass Rock is the bird-limed lump out to sea northwest. Sail around it, and perhaps even land, on boat trips from North Berwick. Due north on a clear day you can also make out the cliffs of the Isle of May, a bird sanctuary. It's usually reached from Anstruther in Fife but there are summer boat trips from North Berwick.
 * is a five metre steel mesh sculpture of a brown bear rearing up on its hind legs. Erected in 2019 at the south edge of town, it commemorates Yosemite and other US wildernesses protected by John Muir, but it looks like it's minded to raid ASDA supermarket next door.
 * is a gnarly stump 5 miles east of town. It was built in the 14th century; in the 17th the Covenanters used as a base to harry Cromwell.
 * Bass Rock is the bird-limed lump out to sea northwest. Sail around it, and perhaps even land, on boat trips from North Berwick. Due north on a clear day you can also make out the cliffs of the Isle of May, a bird sanctuary. It's usually reached from Anstruther in Fife but there are summer boat trips from North Berwick.
 * Bass Rock is the bird-limed lump out to sea northwest. Sail around it, and perhaps even land, on boat trips from North Berwick. Due north on a clear day you can also make out the cliffs of the Isle of May, a bird sanctuary. It's usually reached from Anstruther in Fife but there are summer boat trips from North Berwick.

Do

 * Lammermuir Festival is classical music in Dunbar and other venues across East Lothian. It's next held 5-16 Sept 2024.
 * Traditional Music Festival is held in late Sept, with the next 27-29 Sept 2024.
 * Lammermuir Festival is classical music in Dunbar and other venues across East Lothian. It's next held 5-16 Sept 2024.
 * Traditional Music Festival is held in late Sept, with the next 27-29 Sept 2024.
 * Lammermuir Festival is classical music in Dunbar and other venues across East Lothian. It's next held 5-16 Sept 2024.
 * Traditional Music Festival is held in late Sept, with the next 27-29 Sept 2024.
 * Lammermuir Festival is classical music in Dunbar and other venues across East Lothian. It's next held 5-16 Sept 2024.
 * Traditional Music Festival is held in late Sept, with the next 27-29 Sept 2024.
 * Traditional Music Festival is held in late Sept, with the next 27-29 Sept 2024.

Buy

 * Co-op Food have a small store at 118 High St and a supermarket at Countess Cres, both open daily 7AM-10PM.

Eat

 * Town centre offerings are The Creel by the harbour, Shapla Tandoori on High St, Hector's Pizza top of High St, and 1902 Grill within Dunmuir Hotel on Queen's Rd.

Drink

 * Thistly Cross Cider is made nearby at West Barns from Scottish apples. They don't do tours but if you've got good quality apples, they'd love you to get in touch.
 * Bear & Bull and Eagle Inn are on High St by the museum.
 * Station Yard is a microbrewery with beer garden next to the station, open M-Th 3-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM.
 * Station Yard is a microbrewery with beer garden next to the station, open M-Th 3-11PM, F Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11PM.

Sleep

 * Belhaven Bay camping & caravan site, open March-Oct, is on A1087 at the west edge of town. They also run the site near Tantallon Caastle.
 * Camping & Caravan Club site is a mile east of town beyond the golf course.
 * B&Bs: lots in town, open in summer.

Connect
As of July 2023, Dunbar and the A1 have 4G from all UK carriers, with a patchy 5G signal from EE.

Go next

 * North Berwick 10 miles northwest has the Scottish Seabird Centre and Tantallon Castle. Stay on this scenic A198 coastal route for Edinburgh rather than dash along A1.
 * Eyemouth southeast is a fishing harbour, and the last town in Scotland before you cross the border at Berwick.
 * Berwick-upon-Tweed is a historic border town, with well-preserved walls and old centre.
 * Edinburgh, Scotland's spectacular capital city, is only 30 miles west.