Dumaguete

Dumaguete is the capital city and main port of Negros Oriental, the province that occupies the south-eastern part of Negros Island, in the Philippines. It is sometimes called the "City of Gentle People".

A laid-back university town with a charming sea-front boulevard and a good selection of tourist-oriented services, Dumaguete is a good place to relax for anything from a few days to a few decades. There are many tourists and a large contingent of resident foreigners. According to the Philippine government Dumaguete is the most popular destination in the country for retiring abroad, and Forbes magazine included it in a list of the seven best places to retire worldwide.

Dumaguete is a major transport hub for reaching destinations anywhere on the large island of Negros which is split into two provinces, Negros Oriental and Negros Occidental. In particular, it often serves as an entry point for trips to the diving on Apo Island or dolphin chasing and whale watching near Bais. The small island province of Siquijor, with its many beaches and legends of sorcery, is also often reached via Dumaguete; it is visible from the downtown seafront.

The economy is quite diverse and is doing well; a 2009 survey showed Dumaguete with the lowest incidence of poverty of all cities in the Visayas and Mindanao. The city has been a center of education for over a century, and the transport, market and administrative hub of its region for even longer. Tourism and hi-tech have become important; Dumaguete is among the top ten tourist destinations in the country and has quite a few call centers, business process outsourcing companies and other IT-related enterprises.

Understand
This article covers four towns that are administratively separate but effectively one city:
 * Dumaguete City proper (134,100 in 2020 census)
 * Bacong, south along the coast (41,200)
 * Valencia, on higher ground inland to the southwest (38,700)
 * Dumaguete, Valencia and Bacong are connected by three roads, approximately an equilateral triangle 8 km (5 miles) on a side.


 * Sibulan, north along the coast; the two town centers are about 12 km apart (64,300)

Dumaguete is not a large city in population but is spread out over quite a wide area. All three suburbs mentioned above have experienced considerable residential development in this century; many people live in them but come into Dumaguete to work or shop, or for restaurants and nightlife.

Valencia is in a volcanic area, though the volcanoes are dormant. The volcanic soil is fertile, and there is plenty of rain. The area has long been known for agriculture, especially fruit and vegetable production. There is a large farmers' market in the center of Valencia, right where the jeepney from Dumaguete arrives.

The urban part of Valencia is over 200 m (660 ft) above sea level so the town is significantly cooler than Dumaguete on the coast. Partly because of this, it has several new upmarket real estate developments which attract both well-off Dumaguetinos and expatriates. Bacong and Dauin, the next coastal town south, also have a lot of upmarket housing development.

The climate is tropical with an average daily high of 30.6°C (87°F) and low of 24.8°C (77°F); this does not vary much from month to month. Precipitation does vary considerably with a dry season January to May and wet season June to December. Average annual rainfall is 807 mm (32 inches); for comparison, San Francisco and London each get about 600 mm while Metro Cebu gets about 1700 and Hong Kong 2400.

As anywhere in the Philippines, there is some risk of earthquakes and typhoons. However, compared to other areas in the country Dumaguete has relatively low risk of either. Sometimes it gets side effects of typhoons elsewhere; for example in October 2017, heavy rain associated with Typhoon Paolo caused some flooding in Dumaguete.

Get in
The country's two largest cities, and its main hubs for international flights, are Metro Manila and Metro Cebu; from either, there are flights, ferries, and buses (which ride ferries for part of the route) to Dumaguete. Cebu is considerably closer and Mactan-Cebu International Airport is a more pleasant airport to arrive at with an international connection.

If you change planes in Manila or Cebu, allow plenty of time since the security controls to enter each terminal &mdash; before you can even join the queue to check in &mdash; sometimes cause long delays. On a busy day at Manila Airport it can take almost two hours! You will also need a paper print out of your confirmed flight itinerary.

There are also international flights to Davao, Iloilo, or Clark Airport near Angeles. Cebu Pacific have Davao-Dumaguete and Clark-Dumaguete flights, and from Iloilo one can take a ferry to Bacolod, then bus. Since the new Panglao Airport opened there are now international flights to Bohol and there are good ferry connections from there to Dumaguete.

Kalibo (nearest airport to Boracay) also has international flights, but no good connection to Dumaguete. You could take a bus to Iloilo, ferry to Bacolod, then another bus to Dumaguete, but each bus ride would be about six hours.

By plane
Cebu Pacific has flights from Manila, Cebu, Davao, and Cagayan de Oro, and Philippine Airlines has flights from Manila. There is a plan to build a new and larger airport in Bacong, south of the city center; there are no international flights to Dumaguete now, but the new airport will handle larger planes and is expected to have many. President Marcos has said it will be completed during his term in office, i.e. by early 2028. The transportation department says 2030. However, as of late 2023 construction has not started and neither any politician's promise nor any Philippine schedule should be considered entirely reliable.

By boat
Frequent sailings from Manila, Cebu City, Tagbilaran, Siquijor and Dapitan are offered with Cebu having the most options and trips.

A comfortable way to reach Dumaguete is on one of the better ferries. However, this is considerably more expensive than other ferry or mixed bus/ferry options. Also, they are for passengers only; you cannot bring a vehicle.
 * If you want to stop on Bohol, you have a choice of several fast ferries for the Cebu-Tagbilaran leg of the trip (see Tagbilaran) or you might reach Bohol from the south on a CDO-Jagna ferry. However, Ocean Jet is the only fast ferry for the Tagbilaran-Dumaguete journey.
 * If you want to stop on Bohol, you have a choice of several fast ferries for the Cebu-Tagbilaran leg of the trip (see Tagbilaran) or you might reach Bohol from the south on a CDO-Jagna ferry. However, Ocean Jet is the only fast ferry for the Tagbilaran-Dumaguete journey.



Ro-Ro's are also available; these are slower and cheaper ferries where cars can roll on and roll off.


 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.
 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.
 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.
 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.
 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.
 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.
 * Medallion Transport 5am daily Dumaguete to Dapitan.

For trips from Dumaguete to Cebu, the best option is often the overnight boat with Cokaliong or George and Peter lines. These cost -odd, depart at 11PM or midnight, and reach Cebu around 7AM. Neither company has departures every night, but usually at least one does.

Ticketing offices for most boats are either along the road leading into the port (George & Peter, Cokaliong) or nearby on the main road just north of the port (Ocean Jet, Aleson). 2GO are further along the main road, past the first intersection north of the port. Most travel agents and some hotels can also get tickets. The boats, especially Ocean Jet, often get quite full so booking a day or two in advance is advisable.

From Cebu
The Ceres line has direct buses from the south bus station in Cebu City to Dumaguete; they go down to the south end of Cebu Island, across to Negros Island via a short ferry ride that lands in San Jose just north of Sibulan, then on to Dumaguete. Total travel time is typically about six hours but may be an hour or so less or considerably longer depending on traffic, weather and whether there is a delay waiting for the ferry.

From Cebu, the Dumaguete buses are scheduled at 6AM, 7:30AM, 10AM, 11:30AM, 1PM, 2:30PM, 4PM, and 6PM. The first bus for Cebu from Dumaguete leaves at 3:15AM and the last at 2PM; there are many trips in between, scheduled every hour or two. Scheduling is not at all strict; a bus will leave early if it is full, sometimes more than an hour early. Cost for the bus (Feb 2018) is, paid to the conductor. There is a separate charge for the ferry; someone comes round to collect it. A senior's discount is available on both fares, making them and.

You can also take a non-air-conditioned Ceres bus from the Cebu south bus terminal to Liloan ferry terminal for, then get a ferry over to Sibulan ferry terminal for , then a jeepney to Dumaguete downtown market for. Total.

At busy times, such as major holidays, you may be better off taking a boat or even plane since you can book tickets in advance for those rather than just queuing up and hoping. For example, during Cebu's Sinulog festival it will be slow and difficult to get a bus and when you do it may be very slow as the many parades cause traffic jams.

From Negros Occidental
There are Ceres buses to and from Bacolod, capital of the western province of Negros Occidental (which shares the island of Negros with Negros Oriental whose capital is Dumaguete). Possible stops along that route include Kabankalan which has some beach resorts, Mabinay which is a caving destination, and Bais which has beaches, dolphins and whale sharks. There are many trips a day. Fare for a non-air-conditioned bus is each way. and for the air-conditioned bus is. Travel time is 6-7 hours.
 * Bacolod to Dumaguete: first trip at 2AM and last trip at 7PM.
 * Dumaguete to Bacolod: first trip at 2:30AM last trip at 7:30PM.

An alternative route, longer and more expensive, would be to follow the coast rather than cutting across the center of the island. This would give the opportunity to stop at several beach areas along the way, notably Sipalay. See for places nearer Dumaguete on this route.

From Luzon
Ceres also now have a bus from the Cubao district of Quezon City (which is part of Metro Manila) to Dumaguete. It goes by land to Batangas City, by ferry to Caticlan on Panay, by land to Iloilo, ferry to Bacolod, and finally by land to Dumaguete. DLTB also have a bus route that goes from Cubao down to Bicol at the southern end of Luzon, across to Samar on a ferry, then overland to Ormoc. From Ormoc, one can reach Cebu City by ferry, and from Cebu there are both boats and buses to Dumaguete.

For most travellers, the buses from Cubao are not a desirable choice; either has travel time over 36 hours and cost above, which is higher than some flights or some classes of travel on the luxurious 2Go boats. However, one of them may be a good choice if you want intermediate stops. For example, one might visit two of the country's best-known tourist destinations by taking the bus from Cubao to Batangas, ferry across to Puerto Galera, back to Batangas for the ferry to Caticlan, short ferry ride to Boracay, and back to the bus for the run to Dumaguete.

Alternative routes
If you want to see more of the southern parts of Cebu Island, you can travel south from Cebu City on your own, then reach Dumaguete with smaller hops from there. All these ferries are ro-ros so bringing a vehicle is possible,


 * Take a bus to the San Sebastian (Bato) area of Samboan, then take a 20-30 minute ferry ride to Sibulan, 20 minutes away from the centre of Dumaguete. Ferries leave from Sibulan 5AM-5PM. To get this bus you must play the game chasing against time; seats are limited and if you don't get a chance to be an early bird in booking a ticket, you'll probably end up sleeping in the bus terminal waiting for the next day's departures.
 * Ro-ro from, on Cebu Island to , Sibulan operated by Lite Shipping Corporation at 4PM, 7PM, 8:30PM & 10PM with journeys to Cebu Island at 5AM, 8:30AM, 11:30AM & 1PM with an 80-min journey time. , . Return vehicle fare (for a multicab) of includes driver and one passenger with additional passengers at  each.

It is also possible to go west from Cebu City to Toledo and get a ferry to San Carlos (Negros Occidental) there, or get a direct bus from the North Bus Terminal in Mandaue to San Carlos. From San Carlos, you can then travel south along the coast of Negros via Bais and Tanjay toward Dumaguete. This route is longer, slower and less travelled.

From Iloilo City, the easiest route is by ferry to Bacolod then bus to Dumaguete. From Palawan one can take a plane or ferry to Iloilo, or fly to Cebu City. From Manila one could get a direct flight or boat, but it is also possible take a ferry or plane to any of Iloilo City, Bacolod, Cebu City or Tagbilaran then continue to Dumaguete.

From Mindanao, there are direct connections to Dumaguete by boat from Dapitan.

From Cagayan de Oro or Camiguin it is also possible to take a ferry to Bohol and change to another for Dumaguete.

Get around
Dumaguete has few taxis and almost none of the jeepneys you'll see in other cities in the Philippines. There are some jeepneys going to nearby towns but, unlike other cities, there are no jeepneys with general-purpose downtown routes. Most in-town transit is by motorcycle/sidecar rigs called pedicabs.

Locals in the Philippines name a landmark or commercial establishment near their destinations, street names are rarely used or known. Many travellers will be able to get around knowing only the names of three landmarks: Rizal Boulevard, Lee Plaza and Robinson's Place; most other places of interest are within easy walking distance of one of those.

If you must have air conditioning and are willing to pay for it, then the few taxis are often found near the Bethel Guest House or at Robinson's Place Mall. Neither the locals nor the resident foreigners use these much; they either have their own vehicles or take pedicabs which are easier to find and cheaper.

Motorcycles are also popular; the roads have considerably more of them than cars. They can be rented in several shops along Perdices St, near the corners of Pinili and Santa Rosa Streets, typically for a day. Few locals use helmets; if you plan to ride it is a good idea to bring a good-quality helmet with you.

By pedicab
The standard transport option is a three-wheeled contraption usually called a pedicab. In parts of the Philippines a "pedicab" is human-powered, but in Dumaguete it is a motorcycle with a sidecar. In other areas, that might be called a traysikel. These are cheap by foreign standards, usually easily found, and very convenient. These do have a windshield and a roof so there is some protection from the elements, but they are neither quiet nor very comfortable. The sidecar has seating for four, two facing forward and two back, but it is designed for Filipinos and four Westerners will not usually fit unless one rides pillion behind the operator.

These are shared vehicles; expect to ride along with whoever happens to be going the same way, and to take the odd detour as the driver diverts to deliver other passengers to their destinations. Fare is regulated at per person for trips of up to 3 km, more for longer distances and an extra charge for luggage is allowed. For most trips within town, just give the driver, or even for longer distances or at night.

When travelling to further-out destinations (airport, etc.), or if you want the machine to yourself, expect to pay more and negotiate, probably before you get in. Coming from the airport, there are flat rates posted on signs outside the terminal, for downtown and  for the south side of town, e.g. Robinson Mall. Prices can be high for a journey to a suburb; for example most drivers ask or more for Valencia, and most customers take a jeepney for  instead. A family with luggage going from downtown to Dauin might be asked for.

By jeepney
There are various terminals for jeepneys to nearby towns or suburbs; these are cheap and interesting, but often quite crowded. Sit up front with the driver if you can; this is more comfortable and has a better view. Most jeepneys give a discount for students or seniors.

The Jeepney terminals are mostly in the area around the cathedral or the market west of it.

Jeepneys or buses northbound to Sibulan, San Jose or Tanjay can sometimes be flagged down on Rizal Boulevard or on the highway going north out of the city, and jeepneys for many places can sometimes be found near the pier, but your chances of a comfortable seat are better at the terminal.

See


Dumaguete is a university town; there are four universities plus various colleges, and about a quarter of the population of the city proper are students.

Foremost of the city's educational institutions is Silliman University.

Inland (west) of Dumaguete are a range of volcanic mountains running from well south of the city to well north of it. None of the volcanoes are active but several of them are not extinct either; experts say they have the potential to erupt again. Travel services in Dumaguete or local guides closer to the sites can arrange trips. Some of the main sites are: Each of the suburbs we include in this article &mdash; Valencia, Sibulan and Bacong &mdash; is administered as a separate town and all have been towns since the era of Spanish rule. They all have some buildings going back to that era, clustered around a central plaza; the ones in Bacong include the oldest church in the province.

Do
The free public urban beach is Silliman Beach, just south of the airport (3 km north of downtown). While often crowded and usually littered, it has three advantages over many other beaches of Negros: the bottom is all sand without mud or rocks, it's deep enough so that the sea does not retreat far from the beach even at low tide, and mature trees provide a good amount of shade in the afternoon.

There are several popular seaside resort areas nearby and it is common for travellers to use Dumaguete as a base for visiting one or more of them, since the beaches in town are often highly polluted. Many hotels and all travel agencies in Dumaguete can arrange trips to any of them.
 * Apo Island - a small island somewhat south of Dumaguete with excellent diving
 * Bais - a city on the coast to the north, known for dolphin and whale watching
 * Siquijor - an island province with good beaches and many tales of witches and sorcerers, visible from the Dumaguete boulevard and accessible via frequent ferries.

There are many dive shops in Dumaguete. Some of them are:

See also Diving in the Philippines.

There are also some golf courses:

Several of the resorts have swimming pools, but the public pool downtown is cheaper:


 * Aqua Swimming pool Largest swimming pool in Dumaguete (Capital area) behind Freedom Park. per person.

There are decorated horse-drawn carts offering scenic rides around town.

There are sometimes dragon boat races in the harbor, with a large crowd watching from the boulevard. The traditional date for the dragon boat festival is the 5th day of the 5th Chinese lunar month, which usually falls in June of the Gregorian calendar. However, Dumaguete often has races somewhat earlier (perhaps regional events to qualify for later national events?); for example in 2017 and 2018 there were races in early April.

Learn
There are many small colleges and vocational schools, some English-teaching mainly for Chinese and Koreans, and four universities: The Silliman University Library is one of the best in the Visayas with more than 100,000 volumes, and provides a relatively quiet and air conditioned sanctuary from the perpetual hum and throb of the streets. It's not usually open to the public, but for a purely nominal fee and a courteous word with the librarian you might be admitted as an overseas visitor.

There is a public library in the cluster of municipal buildings on Colon Street, next to the fire station and near the post office, with free WiFi.

Buy
The main shopping area downtown is Perdices Street from around the Bell Tower to the edge of Silliman University. The street continues north into the university, but the name changes to Hibbard Avenue.

Downtown


On the boulevard, Why Not? has imported (mainly European) groceries, including some things you cannot find elsewhere. Prices tend to be high but are sometimes better than in the imported foods section of a supermarket.

Outside downtown
If you want a lot of stuff, for example if you are setting up housekeeping, then the Hypermart may be preferable to Robinson's Place. Robinson's have four separate stores in their mall &mdash; supermarket, department store, TV & appliances, and other hardware &mdash; with separate delivery systems for each, and they refuse to combine purchases from multiple stores into one delivery. At the Hypermart you can get groceries, appliances, bedding and furniture in one store, get them all delivered in one load, and pay only one delivery fee.

Other shopping
There are farmers' markets near the center of every town; all are very good for fruit and vegetables and have other things as well. All these markets except Valencia are right on the main north-south coastal highway through the region. The one in Dumaguete is just west of the cathedral and the one in Valencia is where the jeepneys deliver you if you arrive that way.

Zamboanguita, south of Dumaguete, also has a market. Every Wednesday, the village of Malatapay there has a large market; the specialties are handicrafts and seafood.

Robinson's Place has two bookstores, both part of nationwide chains and both with a reasonable selection of books in English. National Bookstore on the ground floor has new books while Book Sale, upstairs, sells used books. There is also a book store downtown on Perdices a little north of Lee Plaza; it has a lot of children's books and textbooks, but almost nothing for general adult readers.

On the hallway leading to the immigration office (listed under ) is the small family-owned X.I.Q. bookstore (which also is a book rental place) which seems to be the only establishment in town with a good selection of sci-fi and fantasy; they also have a large selection of romances and children's books. The second floor of that building also has a bookstore.

Eat
There are restaurants all over Dumaguete and some of the plainer ones with Filipino customers away from the central strip may be the best places to search for low prices or local color. In particular, places catering to the student market near any of the universities (especially along Hibbard Avenue near Silliman University or the North Highway near Negros Oriental U) are often cheap and lively.

All the places listed under below also serve food, though not all have a large menu.

Budget
Most of these places &mdash; at least Chow King, Filomena, Food Net and Scooby's &mdash; offer free filtered and chilled water from a self-service fountain with a supply of glasses. Most also have soft drinks around, and some have tea, coffee or juices. None serve alcohol.


 * Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.
 * Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.
 * Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.
 * Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.
 * Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.
 * Next to Food Net on Noblefranca is a small stand with cheap Filipino food. Their deep-fried bananas (cut up, coated with batter and optionally with sugar) make a tasty cheap dessert at a stick. Two sticks would be a light meal.

There are also two small cheap burger places on the Boulevard, next to Bogart's. See.

Mid-range
A major area for restaurants and bars is the scenic seafront strip along Rizal Boulevard, plus the streets just behind it up to or a bit beyond Perdices. The cheapest food in this area is from street vendors who appear along the sea front, mainly near the north end, in the evenings selling tempura and corn-on-the-cob.

The restaurants are generally mid-range in pricing, with main courses in the range, though an imported steak can be up to. The food is generally quite good and the range of choices is large, but prices are often somewhat higher than in other areas of town. Quality of the coffee varies rather widely, and much of it is not worth the prices charged here; see above for alternatives. However the boulevard places more-or-less all have cold beer and many serve good milkshakes. Tea, juices, wine and mixed drinks are also on offer in many places. Many offer calamansi juice, from a local fruit similar to a lime; this is worth trying if you like citrus drinks.

Nearly all these places have patios with a view of the sea; this is a mixed blessing. The view is lovely and there is often a welcome sea breeze, but there is no air conditioning, the traffic noise can be distinctly unpleasant, during storms the rain blows in, and people on the patios will be bothered by beggars and vendors of various things.

Along the boulevard
We list the boulevard restaurants here in north-to-south order:


 * The Blue Monkey Grill, on the corner of Rizal and Silliman, closed in early 2018. As of the start of 2020, something is actively under construction on their former site.
 * The Bricks Hotel has a restaurant and bar. beer, smoking area out back.
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).
 * Bethel Guest House (listed under ) has Filomena Cafe (listed under ).

Parents bringing kids to the boulevard fairly often get them either hot dogs at the cheap burger places or ice cream cones at 7-Eleven.

Other downtown places
There are also a number of restaurants that are not on the boulevard but are within easy walking distance. Many are either on Santa Catalina (parallel to the boulevard, a short block inland) or on Silliman Avenue (running inland from the north end of the boulevard).

Along Silliman: Along Santa Catalina: Elsewhere downtown:
 * There is another Jo's in Sibulan, a km or two beyond the market, with a large patio and a fine sea view.
 * There is another Jo's in Sibulan, a km or two beyond the market, with a large patio and a fine sea view.
 * There is another Jo's in Sibulan, a km or two beyond the market, with a large patio and a fine sea view.
 * There is another Jo's in Sibulan, a km or two beyond the market, with a large patio and a fine sea view.
 * There is another Jo's in Sibulan, a km or two beyond the market, with a large patio and a fine sea view.

Perdices Street has several chain restaurants; Jollibee's and McDonald's each have two, while Dunkin Donuts, Chow King, Greenwich Pizza and Mang Inasal (Filipino BBQ chicken) each have one. Fruit is available in the supermarkets, from fruit shops, or from street vendors. There are many bakeries; Lee Plaza has two (one listed at and another on the ground floor), Robinson's has one, and there are several more along the street.

South of the center
There are also some restaurants south of downtown either on Jose Romero (the road that goes west to Valencia) or on the highway south toward Bacong. Many of these are popular with local expats.



Lobos Sports Bar is located on the Diversion Road near the intersection with the Western Nautical Highway. Showing sports from around the world with ice cold beer and great food. 2 billiards tables, 3 dart boards, 1 shuffle board, and 1 set of corn hole. The waitresses and staff are friendly and they are ready to serve.

Robinson's mall has many chain restaurants including Shakey's Pizza, Jollibee, Mister Donut, Krispy Kreme, Mang Inasal and KFC inside the mall. A courtyard at the east of the mall has several more, including Bo's Coffee and Mooon Cafe. A food court at the north end of the second floor has many places, mostly with Filipino food.

North of the center
The area Where EJ Blanco reaches the coast north of town is developing rapidly. Flores Avenue along the coast has been widened, there is a large upmarket condo/mall project at the Flores/EJ Blanco intersection, and there are many restaurants in the area: Families with kids may appreciate either Racer or Lantaw. Between the two is a small playground with swings, slides and a grassy area to run around on; kids can reach it without either going on a road or being out of the parents' sight. Elsewhere north of downtown are:
 * There is a small stand with Filipino-style barbecue chicken between Hayahay and Lantaw.
 * There is a small stand with Filipino-style barbecue chicken between Hayahay and Lantaw.

Valencia
Valencia has a market near the center of town with bakeries, fruit vendors, several restaurants with Filipino food, and two pizza places. On Sundays many additional vendors appear; along the north side of the market is (mostly used) clothing at good prices, while to the west is a park with vendors of interesting food including European sausage-in-a-bun and good cheap ( for a small loaf) French bread. Delicious Spanish Omelettes and Croquetas and a fantastic Greek Yoghurt are also available around the kiosk area of the Sunday Market.

On the streets on the south and west sides of the market are many restaurants, including some that are quite popular with the town's large expatriate community:

Splurge
Competition is stiff for restaurants in Dumaguete, and the restaurants listed above all have many moderately-priced items on their menus so we have listed them all as "Mid-range". If you want elegant decor and a menu that includes upmarket offerings, then your best bets are Casablanca, La Residencia Almar, or Lantaw.

Drink
Tourists and resident expatriates do much of their imbibing in the strip of restaurants and bars along Rizal Boulevard; those are listed under above. There are also a number of other restaurants, plus some discos and karaoke places, just inland from there. Some bars outside that central region, but within a few minutes pedicab ride, are: When ordering a rum & coke in Dumaguete, a double usually costs less than a single; Philippine rum is cheaper than the mixer. Some places offer a triple for even less.

For those who enjoy karaoke, there is a KTV place above Mooon Cafe on Silliman Avenue, and another a few doors further west; these cater to a mainly student crowd. As anywhere in the country, there are also many "videoke" places scattered around town, generally loud, cheap, in low-rent neighborhoods, and catering to the working class. For tourists, one of these might be a good choice if you are out with Filipino friends, but otherwise probably not.

Unlike some places in the Philippines, Dumaguete does not have a flourishing sex trade. As anywhere on Earth, there is prostitution, but it is not nearly as blatant as in places like Angeles or Puerto Galera. There are some girlie bars outside Dumaguete city limits in Sibulan along the North Highway beyond the airport, but nothing so obvious in town.

Sleep
Dumaguete is a tourist town with a large number of hotels, not all listed here. Walk down almost any street near the center of town and you are bound to find several.

Splurge
At early 2023 exchange rates is a bit under $40 US, so even these upmarket places are cheap by Western standards.

Long-term stays
It is fairly common for travellers to stay in Dumaguete for long periods, in particular for most or all of what would be the winter season back home. Some even settle permanently; this is a prime destination for retiring abroad. Many hotels and some small guest houses offer by-the-week or by-the-month deals.

There are also places catering mainly to long-term guests. Prices start around /month for a room in a house full of students; unfurnished studio apartments start around /month. Most of the resident foreigners have nice places in the range, and many of those are furnished, but finding vacancies for such places may be difficult and you need to sign at least a six-month lease for most of them. A foreigner cannot legally own land in the Philippines, but they can buy a condo in their own name. It is common to buy land in the name of a Filipina wife or girlfriend, and that often works well, but a condo is safer. There are real estate agents (web search will find a dozen, or you may notice signs around town) who can connect you to anything from by-the-month accommodation to buying property of various types. Why Not? on the boulevard and Red Tables in Valencia have notice boards with ads to rent or sell property, cars and motorcycles. The Facebook group Dumaguete Marketplace often lists apartments for rent.

Outside town
West of downtown there are several highland resorts mainly oriented to outdoor activities. These are in a forested area and are reached via Taft Street which starts a bit north of downtown Valencia and runs west along a river. South of the city is a coastline well provided with dive resorts, which we cover in the articles on the coastal towns. Listed north-to-south, those are:
 * Bacong, included in this article
 * Dauin - about 20 km from Dumaguete
 * Zamboanguita
 * Either Dauin or Zamboanguita has boats to Apo Island which has some of the best diving in the region. Transport to the island, and accommodation there, can also be arranged through tour agencies or hotels in Dumaguete.


 * Siaton - near the southern tip of the island, with the scenic Lake Balanan in the mountains inland of it and a harbor popular with people Cruising on small craft.

Beyond Siaton, around the corner onto the southwest coast of the island, are several more towns, also often reached via Dumaguete. These are a bit off-the-beaten-path, not well-developed as resort destinations. Listed east-to-west: Beyond those is Negros Occidental; the nearest resort area there is Sipalay, not highly developed or heavily touristed but with good beaches and diving. This is a popular destination for Dumaguete or Bacolod residents who want to get away from it all.
 * Santa Catalina
 * Bayawan
 * Basay has some of the finest fishing in the country.

Stay safe
Dumaguete is generally a safe city. There are enough beggars and touts to be annoying, but by Asian standards these problems are relatively mild. Police are quite visible, especially along Rizal Boulevard.

You do see evidence that locals are concerned about security. Many of the larger old houses and more-or-less all the new luxury housing are in walled compounds, and barbed wire, spikes or broken glass to discourage people from climbing the walls are common, as are bars to keep burglars from entering windows. Most businesses have roll-down metal doors for protection when they are closed. Many businesses and some residential compounds have armed guards. Guards at the entrances to many department stores or malls use metal-detecting wands to scan customers before entry. All of this, however, is true in most areas of the Philippines, and much of it is common to most low-income countries.

Traffic can be distinctly hectic; there are no traffic lights and few stop signs in the town, and you only occasionally see policemen directing traffic. Most of the oddities of Asian driving are seen in Dumaguete: running without lights at night is common, motorcycles fairly often do interesting things like going down the wrong side of the road or ignoring one-way traffic signs, and so on. On the positive side, the traffic is not remarkably fast, there are few traffic jams and, compared to some other Asian cities, Dumaguete has fewer drivers who seem obviously insane to western observers.

Pedestrians should be quite cautious in Dumaguete. The traffic is dangerous, some roads lack sidewalks, and even if there is a sidewalk, it may be blocked by parked motorcycles. Both roads and sidewalks are often seriously uneven &mdash; some have holes that could easily break a leg, and many more could turn an ankle &mdash; so it is essential to watch your step.

As in any tropical area, there is risk of sunburn; it is quite important for newly arrived visitors to exercise caution.

Stay healthy
Health risks in Dumaguete are not large but, as for most travel, it is worth checking with your doctor and possibly getting some vaccines before setting out. The area is tropical, so see also hot weather and tropical diseases.

A few vaccines may be of particular concern:
 * The city has many stray dogs and cats, and some rats and bats, so rabies vaccine may be a good idea. It takes three shots spaced over a month; cost in the Philippines is -3000 per shot.
 * Two vaccines for the mosquito-borne disease dengue fever are now available in some countries. Dengue is widespread in the Philippines and Dumaguete has some mosquitoes (though not many), so one of those might be a wise precaution. See Dengue_fever for details.

The city has many health services &mdash; doctors, dentists, pharmacies, optometrists &mdash; and, as elsewhere in the Philippines and indeed most of Asia, these services are often much cheaper than in higher-income countries. There are exceptions when imported products, such as dental implants or certain drugs, are required for the treatment.



Hospitals & clinics
The city has five hospitals: The Social Hygiene Clinic, part of the city health office at the City Hall on Colon Street, offers free testing for sexually transmitted diseases including HIV. The Central Visayas region ranks third in the country for the most cases of HIV.

Pharmacies


The erection-enhancing drugs Viagra and Cialis are available from most pharmacies without prescription. There are also vendors who patrol the boulevard bars selling them; they are considerably cheaper provided you bargain the price down some, and the products do work, but the pharmacies are probably safer. In any case, you should not take these without consulting a doctor since they affect the circulatory system and may be quite dangerous for some men.

Connect
Internet service is generally very good; Dumaguete is one of the hubs of the fiber optic network that connects the country. Most hotels and many restaurants offer free Wi-Fi; connection speed is fine for text, photos and most graphics but music or video streaming is sometimes jerky.

There are a number of fairly large Internet cafés; they cater mainly to people playing online games, so they provide reasonably powerful computers with decent screens and a fast connection. One is above the Scoobie's coffee shop on San José, another is at Harold's Mansion, and several are around the corner of Perdices and Silliman to catch the student trade; one of the largest and most popular is Frozen Throne a half-block south on Perdices.

If you rent or buy a place, home Internet service starts around a month and ranges up to over. Most foreign residents opt for a package that includes cable TV and fast Internet for something in the range.

Cell phone connections are fast and reliable anywhere in the city itself or in central areas of the major suburbs, but can be quite flaky in some outlying areas.

Cope
Dumaguete has frequent (once every few weeks) "brownouts", the local term for a complete shutdown of electrical power; these are nearly all planned shutdowns announced in advance by the power company, and are usually several hours on a Sunday. Locals often cope with them by having a day out at a resort in some nearby area, most commonly Dauin to the south or Amlan to the north. Valencia may also be an alternative, and has a Sunday market, but some Dumaguete brownouts include Valencia.



Smoking
Smoking is not encouraged in Dumaguete; a municipal ordinance prohibits smoking in public places, including on the streets or in restaurants and bars, and there are officers on scooters who give out tickets for this, for a first offense. Most or all hotels prohibit smoking in the rooms. However, a few bars have smoking areas and some hotels provide a patio or balcony area where nicotine addicts can indulge.



For those who prefer a vaporizer:

For chewing tobacco, Bogart's Bar on the boulevard stocks a Swedish product called Snus.

Go next
Nearby major cities are Bacolod and Cebu City; there are buses to both and boats to Cebu. Popular tourist destinations nearby include Siquijor, Bohol and Apo Island.

The Dumaguete-Bacolod bus route passes through several places that may be worth a stop. Mabinay, up in the mountains about halfway, is a center for spelunking; the area around it has many caves but accommodation choices are not brilliant. Kabankalan is where the road reaches the sea again, on the west coast south of Bacolod, and has some beach resorts.

Bais, 44 km north of Dumaguete, is known for dolphin and whale watching, and also has public ballroom dancing in the plaza, mangrove swamps, and a 7-km long white sand bar that is washed clean twice a day by each high tide. Oslob on Cebu Island is known for whale sharks.