Doha

Once little more than a minuscule pearl fishing village, Doha (Arabic: الدوحة ad-Dawḥa), Qatar's capital, with more people than the rest of Qatar combined, has emerged to become one of the pearls of the Middle East. It is one of the most rapidly-developing cities on the Persian Gulf, akin to the development seen in nearby Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and is aiming to become a centre of international trade and travel.

We also cover the neighbouring cities of Al Rayyan and Lusail in this article, as they are effectively part of the Doha urban area.

Understand
For most of its history, Doha was a poor fishing village dependent on pearl diving, and was regarded as a sleepy backwater until the early 1990s. Following the accession of Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani as Emir in 1995, however, Qatar quickly began to modernize, and Doha is now taking huge strides to catch up with other nearby Gulf cities. Development was accelerated by hosting the Asian Games in 2006 and the FIFA World Cup in 2022. The city is very much a work-in-progress, with a rapidly growing skyline and new buildings sprouting up almost like mushrooms.

For most visitors, Doha is synonymous with Qatar, as the vast majority of the country's population resides in the capital city. Doha has an astonishingly diverse population – only 13% of its residents are Qataris. Although Arabic is Qatar's official language, English is the lingua franca; most retail and service staff are foreigners and do not speak Arabic. Doha is also now one of the fastest-growing cities in the world, as workers continue to pour in to help build the developing economy.

Doha is fairly liberal by the standards of the Islamic world, though less so than its main rival Dubai and most Western countries. Alcohol and pork are legal for non-Muslim foreign residents, and non-Muslim women are not required to wear the hijab, though dressing in very skimpy outfits is still illegal. That said, Qatar is an absolute monarchy, so criticising the Emir is a crime. Homosexuality is also a crime that carries the death penalty (though not actively enforced), so gay visitors should be as discreet as possible.

If you've visited before, be assured that Doha today is not the same as it was just a couple of years ago, and will be very different again in a few years time.

Read

 * Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, From Dunes to Dior. Written by a resident Indian-American, this is a collection of insightful essays about life as an expatriate in Doha.
 * Mohanalakshmi Rajakumar, Love Comes Later. Set in Doha and London, this novel examines Qatari culture and how young Qataris are now challenging the status quo. The book is not available in Qatar as it has been banned by the Qatari Ministry of Culture.

By plane
Compared to Dubai, the home of Qatar Airways' arch-rival Emirates, Doha is served by much fewer other carriers. The major European airlines usually provide a single connection to Doha from their main hubs (e.g. Lufthansa from Frankfurt, KLM from Amsterdam), but minor ones do not. Pretty much all airlines of the Middle East, Turkey included (but not Israel), provide connections to Doha. Relatively few Asian airlines do so, however, with the exception of a relatively good choice of connections to India and Pakistan.

Qatar Airways is a member of the Oneworld alliance (which includes e.g. British Airways), and an increasing number of their connections are also on offer as codeshare flights by Oneworld members.

If you're arriving from outside of the Persian Gulf region, probably the most economical way to visit is to use Qatar as an intermediate stopover en route to another destination. Prices of tickets originating in or terminating in Doha are artificially high because of limited competition, while prices for transit tickets are very competitive, as Qatar Airways continues working to build Doha as a global transit hub.

Public Wi-Fi is provided free of charge throughout the airport.

By car
Doha is the heart of all activity in the country, so most travellers will start off in the city. All highways and roads throughout Qatar will most likely connect to Doha, so look out for the signs.

Qatar's only land border is with Saudi Arabia in the south. However, this is rarely an option, as obtaining permits to drive through Saudi Arabia can be extremely difficult. The Qatar article provides more information. Early plans are underway to connect Qatar using bridges with both Bahrain in the north-east and the United Arab Emirates in the south-east.

By metro
The Doha Metro, which opened in May 2019, is the third rapid transit system in the Gulf, representing a new wave of transit projects in the region. It has three lines: the Red Line from Lusail in the north to Al Wakra in the south or the airport depending on the train, the east-west Gold Line that features a stop at the National Museum, and the Green Line, which focuses on educational institutions in particular and has a stop at the National Library. Msheireb serves as the transfer station between every line.

Like the Dubai Metro, there are premium cars with better seating and higher prices. A one-way trip costs QR 2 (QR 10 for VIP) and a day pass costs QR 6 (QR 30 for VIP). You pay by tapping your card when you enter and exit the system. Cards are not expensive and can be purchased at any station. You don’t have to do anything special to get the day pass; after you pay for 3 rides the system will not charge you for the rest of the day.

There are free "metrolink" feeder bus services for "last-mile" connectivity to areas not served by the Metro (see the link for schedules and routes). In addition, there is also a free (with Metro trip) ride-sharing service called "metroexpress", but it only serves two stations (West Bay and DICC) and requires registration and a separate account.

Every metro station has a restroom with baby changing table and an ablution room, right after the turnstiles. The two rooms are next to each other; the women’s rooms are indicated by a person wearing black clothing, and the men’s rooms by the person wearing white clothing.

By taxi
Other than public transport, the only alternative to not renting a vehicle is taxis. There are two taxi services, also operated by Mowasalat: Karwa and Al Million. "Limousine" taxis are available, which are unmarked, much more expensive (often two to four times the cost of Karwas) and may not carry a meter. If you feel sure about the fare, you can negotiate it up front, but it is advisable to insist on a meter.

Because of increasing complaints regarding taxis, some precautions should be taken. For nearly all journeys within Doha the tariff should be set to '1', and for journeys at night or outside of Doha it should be set to '0'. Airport taxis have a single tariff, which begins at QR 25. Reports of tampered meters are on the rise (look for black tape or paper), as are reports of drivers locking the doors or refusing to open the trunk without extra payment. If the driver refuses to use the meter, the ride should be free, but you may have trouble exercising this right. If you have problems, you can call the police at 999, at which point the driver will suddenly be very cooperative.

The demand for taxis far exceeds the supply and waiting times may vary greatly. During morning business hours, companies usually require 24 hours notice if you need a taxi; however in practice, even this is unreliable as the scheduled taxi often doesn't show up. At other times, it may take upwards of 90 minutes for an on-call taxi to arrive, and hailing one may be impossible in many places. The only places where you are guaranteed to find a taxi (normal or limousine) are at major malls, the airport and international hotels. The acute shortage has led to a thriving market for unlicensed, or unofficial, taxi services, most with a steady clientele. For visitors, the best way to find a reliable driver is to ask around – many residents, particularly expats, hire such drivers regularly and will happily share contact information.

Occasionally, you may find a local driver will stop and offer to give you a ride if he or she sees you looking lost on the side of the road. It is customary to offer some money at the end, though sometimes they will refuse to take it. If a driver slows down and flashes their headlights, they are usually signalling they're willing to give you a lift; beckon them over with a wave in response. However, hitchhiking always has its risks, and it is not an advisable practice for solo women.

By car
Several car rental agencies are found in and around Doha International Airport. The rental desks are not that easy to find and the signs to them are poor. They are on the lower floor in the car park area. The popular agencies include Hertz, Avis and Budget. These rental agencies offer seasonal discounts and it is advisable to check their websites before booking. If you're looking to rent a car, it is best to reserve in advance, to ensure a good price and minimise wait times. As of late 2013, visitors can drive a rental car for six months with an international driving licence. However, the laws regarding driving licences change almost yearly; visitors are advised to verify this information before arrival.

Driving in Qatar is on the right hand side of the road, with similar traffic rules to elsewhere in the world. However, because Doha residents come from all corners of the globe, driving styles vary wildly. Also, road rage is becoming more of a problem.

Expansion of the road network has not kept up with the explosive population growth, so drivers will encounter frequent traffic jams and numerous diversions due to road construction. With the addition of new roads, and the renaming of old roads, even the latest available road maps may be out-of-date. This also applies to satellite imagery, which can be outdated, even when it is only a few months old. So do not rely on Google Earth, OpenStreetMap or your TomTom.

By tram
In the northern parts of the city, around the new development Lusail, a tram system is under construction. The first line opened in 2022 and several more lines will gradually open until 2025. The system connects with the Metro at Lusail station.

Museums
Considering Doha is attempting to become something of a regional cultural hub, the state of its museums is somewhat shambolic. Many museums are under seemingly never-ending refurbishment, the opening hours are not particularly tourist friendly, websites lack practical information such as opening times and location, and many museums require you to phone in advance for a special appointment (which can make the solo visitor feel somewhat uncomfortable as the curator opens up just for one person).

The National Museum, Museum of Islamic Art, and Museum of Modern Art have a single three-day ticket for QR 85. Alternatively you can visit just one of them for QR 50.



Cultural heritage




Other sights

 * Highlights along the Corniche (from east to west) include an informal morning fish market, the MIA (Museum of Islamic Art), the 'Water Pots' fountain, the giant Oyster and Pearl sculpture, the Dhow Harbour (with traditional wooden dhows), and a giant 'Orry' statue (the mascot for the 2006 Asian Games).
 * Highlights along the Corniche (from east to west) include an informal morning fish market, the MIA (Museum of Islamic Art), the 'Water Pots' fountain, the giant Oyster and Pearl sculpture, the Dhow Harbour (with traditional wooden dhows), and a giant 'Orry' statue (the mascot for the 2006 Asian Games).

Do


Doha has a reputation for not being the most exciting place on earth; however, should you find yourself here for a longer visit, there is a variety of activities and events. Start off with a tour of the city, which should take you about 2 hours and from there you will have a good idea of what you would like to see.


 * Football in Qatar has not been a major sport, but the 2022 FIFA World Cup was held here, and the Asia Cup is held here in early 2024. So the game may enjoy a boost. The men's national team don't have a fixed stadium but most internationals are played in Doha.
 * Qatar Grand Prix: Formula One motor-racing is held at Losail Circuit, 45 km north of the city. The next are 29 Nov-1 Dec 2024 then 28-30 Nov 2025.
 * Football in Qatar has not been a major sport, but the 2022 FIFA World Cup was held here, and the Asia Cup is held here in early 2024. So the game may enjoy a boost. The men's national team don't have a fixed stadium but most internationals are played in Doha.
 * Qatar Grand Prix: Formula One motor-racing is held at Losail Circuit, 45 km north of the city. The next are 29 Nov-1 Dec 2024 then 28-30 Nov 2025.
 * Football in Qatar has not been a major sport, but the 2022 FIFA World Cup was held here, and the Asia Cup is held here in early 2024. So the game may enjoy a boost. The men's national team don't have a fixed stadium but most internationals are played in Doha.
 * Qatar Grand Prix: Formula One motor-racing is held at Losail Circuit, 45 km north of the city. The next are 29 Nov-1 Dec 2024 then 28-30 Nov 2025.
 * Qatar Grand Prix: Formula One motor-racing is held at Losail Circuit, 45 km north of the city. The next are 29 Nov-1 Dec 2024 then 28-30 Nov 2025.

Buy
You can buy pretty much anything you want in Doha, apart from pork products and alcohol (except with a licence or in the major hotels). Shopping is a major leisure pursuit of many Qataris and expats; prices however are somewhat higher than in Dubai. As with in most of the Middle East, be prepared to bargain.

Also, be aware that most of the luxury malls and some souks schedule "Family Days", most commonly Fridays, weekends and public holidays, where all single men should in theory be turned away at the door. In practice, however, most Qatari and white men will be allowed in with no issues, but African and non-Qatari Asian men (particularly South Asians in their native dressing) will be turned away.

Souqs
The best shopping experiences are undoubtedly to be had in the various souqs (markets).



Malls
Typically most malls in Doha are open Sa-Th 10AM-10PM. Most will be closed on Friday mornings but will open up during the evening, when they'll be the most crowded.



Bookshops
The availability of English-language books in Doha is fairly limited but improving, and there are several shops which offer some current titles as well as regional travel guides. Carrefour, Lulu Hypermarket, and Megamart all sell international magazines and newspapers along with local maps.

Eat
Given the population diversity in Doha, there is a large variety of different types of cuisine, including Indian, Thai, Chinese, Italian, Korean and, of course, typical Middle Eastern food. Since Qatar is a Muslim country, all food is certified halal. Zomato is a popular restaurant review site and Talibat is a common delivery site.

If you are visiting during Ramadan, keep in mind that it is illegal to eat and drink in public during daylight hours, and all restaurants, including those in hotels, are not permitted to serve dine-in customers during this period. However, some restaurants remain open to sell takeaway meals to non-Muslims that you can take back to your hotel room and consume in private. However, iftar or the breaking of the fast after sunset, is a very elaborate event, as locals gather for large communal meals. Many establishments set up large tents for iftar, and non-Muslim visitors are welcome to partake in them; just make sure you reserve way in advance due to their popularity.

As Qatar is a Muslim country, nearly all food in Doha is halal. Pork is not served at restaurants, but is available to foreign residents with a liquor license at the two liquor stores run by the Qatar Distribution Company (QDC). This license is not available to tourists.

American
Most major American fast food chains have multiple branches here, including McDonald's, KFC, Hardee's, Arby's, Burger King, Subway, and Dairy Queen.

Pizza places include Pizza Hut, Little Caesar's, Pizza Inn, and Papa John's. Many of them are in the major shopping centres, and at Ramada Junction (the intersection of C-Ring and Salwa Rds).

There are also a number of more upscale American chains, including TGI Fridays (in the Landmark, Villaggio shopping malls, Bin Omran Opposite the Civil Defense and Suheem Bin Hamad Street, Al-Sadd), Applebee's, Chili's, Fuddruckers, Bennigan's, and Ponderosa Steakhouse.



Indian
Doha is home to a large Indian population. As such, the city centre is full of small Indian restaurants, with many other excellent Indian restaurants scattered throughout the city.



Middle Eastern


For local street food, nothing beats the home-made goodness dished out by the Pancake Ladies in Souq Waqif every evening in the square by the car park. The crepe-like mankouche is particularly tasty, filled with your choice of labneh (cheese), za’atar, or the less-traditional Nutella for QR5. Other local specialties feature meat, chicken, and fish, and there are even a couple of vegetarian options.

There are also many good restaurants in Souq Waqif worth trying. Perhaps the best include Tagine (Moroccan) and Le Gourmet, particularly good for sheesha and a cup of tea. These are not as inexpensive as the Pancake Ladies but are good for ambiance and people watching.

Grocery stores
For self-catering options there are a few hypermarkets as well as a number of smaller neighborhood grocery stores distributed throughout the city.



Tipping
Tipping at restaurants is not compulsory, although it has become fairly standard to tip about 10% to the waitstaff. Despite being banned, some restaurants still include a 10% service charge in the bill. Should your bill include a service charge, feel free to strike it from the total and leave a tip on the table instead.

Alcohol
Alcohol is strictly regulated in Qatar, as it is a Muslim country, and for visitors is only available in bars attached to large 5-star international hotels. Bars are required to see identification (i.e. a passport) at the door, although this is rarely enforced. Residents with a special liquor license may purchase alcohol at the QDC (Qatar Distribution Company) on the outskirts of town. Importing alcohol is not permitted – all bags are x-rayed upon arrival and any alcohol will be confiscated and held for you. With a claims receipt you can pick up your bottle again when you leave.

Some of the places favoured by local expats are the Crystal Lounge and Waham Poolside Lounge (W Doha Hotel), Sky View Bar (La Cigale Hotel), the Belgian Café (InterContinental at West Bay Lagoon), and Trader Vic's (Hilton). The Irish Harp (in the basement of the Sheraton near City Center Mall) has frequent live music.

Tea and coffee
Karak is the local specialty, a very sweet concoction made from tea and evaporated milk available from stalls everywhere, some of them drive-through (just park your car outside and honk). A particularly popular place is Chapati & Karak at Katara Cultural Village.

Most international coffee chains (including the ubiquitous Starbucks) are well-represented here, especially in shopping malls.



Sleep


Compared to Dubai, which has hundreds of accommodation facilities, Doha does not offer that much variety with less than a hundred hotel properties and some other accommodations. There are quite a few 5-star international chain hotels in Doha and there are scores of new 5-star hotels on the rise, such as the Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons, and Intercontinental. More modest choices come in shorter supply.

Budget

 * La Villa Hotel, QR 130 if you book online. Includes breakfast.
 * Victoria Hotel, QR 135 if you book online. Has a pool and gym.
 * Victoria Hotel, QR 135 if you book online. Has a pool and gym.

Stay healthy
If you need emergency medical treatment, the government-owned Hamad General Hospital provides A&E (accident and emergency) care to everyone regardless of insurance status, and has the most advanced and best-equipped facility. Other smaller, private hospitals will charge for any emergency services.

999 is the emergency number for ambulance, police, and fire service. You will likely need to give directions or a nearby landmark. Response times in Doha are dependent on traffic, and there have been reports of long waits for ambulances, along with long waits for English-speaking operators. Medical teams however are highly skilled and all fluent in English.

HMC operates A&E departments at the medical centers listed below.



Racism
There is informal segregation in place to prevent migrant labourers, who are overwhelmingly male and in Qatar without their families, from mingling with Qataris. For example, some shopping malls and public spaces enforce a "Families-only entry policy" (which includes single Qatari women), either on a regular basis or for significant holidays. In theory, this should apply to all single men (Qatari or otherwise), but in practice the level of enforcement will vary based on your ethnicity and gender. Asian (East, South and SE Asian) or African men and women may be prohibited from entry during this time, while white or Qatari men may face no issues, or at least are expected to simply acclaim that their female partners or mothers have already entered the mall. Even if you can prove you are a tourist or hold a Western passport, it is generally not wise to contest being banned from certain public spaces, or else you risk being further questioned or detained by police. One workaround is to join a tour group that is touring the public space you want to enter, as these groups will clearly and obviously signify that you are a tourist and not a migrant worker. Most notably, the eight largest malls in Doha and most parks ban access to all non-Arab and non-white men on weekends and holidays (or any other periods where a large number of migrant workers are likely to be on break). The Villaggio mall and Souq Wakrah also bans access to non-Arab and non-white men on Fridays.

Nonetheless, tourist attractions will generally not turn you away, regardless of your background, so long as you are wearing smart casual dress (i.e. clean clothing and bottoms that cover your knees). For experiential travellers, visiting the Asian Town mall, which is devoted to migrant workers, may be of interest to better understand and appreciate the racialized experiences of Qatar's migrant worker majority.

Connect
Pre-paid SIM cards and top-up cards for Ooredoo and Vodafone can be purchased at mobile phone shops, as well as at Carrefour and Lulu hypermarkets.

Free Wi-Fi is available in Souq Waqif, public parks including the Sheraton Park and Rumaila Park, and along the Corniche. Some coffee shops also offer free connection. Ooredoo HotSpots are scattered throughout Doha, mainly in hotels and cafés. HotSpot cards in denominations of QR 30, 50, and 70 are available in any Ooredoo shop.

Currency exchange centres
For especially large denominations or more unusual currencies it is best to call beforehand to ensure the centre has the desired currency and amount on hand.

Embassies
Being the national capital, Doha hosts a large number of embassies. A majority of them are clustered in the West Bay District (especially the Diplomatic Area) and in the adjacent Al Dafna, Onaiza 65 and Onaiza Districts. There are others in other parts of the city as well. If corresponding by mail/post use the PO box address given as mail is only sent to a PO box instead of a street address. If delivering to a street address with DHL, FedEx, UPS or another private courier be sure to include recipient's phone number so that the delivery driver can call for directions or clarification on the address:


 * 🇦🇺 Australia
 * 🇦🇹 Austria
 * 🇧🇭 Bahrain
 * 🇧🇩 Bangladesh
 * 🇨🇦 Canada
 * 🇨🇳 China
 * 🇪🇹 Ethiopia
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇬🇷 Greece
 * 🇮🇳 India
 * 🇮🇩 Indonesia
 * 🇮🇷 Iran
 * 🇮🇶 Iraq
 * 🇯🇵 Japan
 * 🇯🇴 Jordan
 * 🇰🇼 Kuwait
 * 🇰🇷 South Korea
 * 🇴🇲 Oman
 * 🇵🇰 Pakistan
 * 🇵🇭 Philippines
 * 🇷🇴 Romania
 * 🇷🇺 Russia
 * 🇸🇦 Saudi Arabia
 * 🇸🇬 Singapore
 * 🇿🇦 South Africa
 * 🇪🇸 Spain
 * 🇨🇭 Switzerland
 * 🇹🇷 Turkey
 * 🇬🇧 United Kingdom
 * 🇦🇪 United Arab Emirates
 * 🇺🇸 United States

News

 * Doha News, a daily news blog staffed by journalists formerly with Al Jazeera English, the BBC, and the Wall Street Journal. This is the most reliable and unbiased source for local news.
 * The Peninsula, also available in print.
 * Gulf Times, also available in print.
 * Marhaba lists current and upcoming events and exhibits in Doha.
 * Al Jazeera English provides good regional coverage, but only rarely covers events within Qatar itself.
 * BBC World Service broadcasts locally on 107.4MHz.

Caves
There are a number of karst caves in Qatar, the most well-known of them a short distance from Doha. All caves have not been fully explored, and it is believed that there is an extensive network of tunnels connecting many of them.



Desert safari
If you want to get out of the city, the desert awaits. Whereas you could take your rental car out to the sand dunes, unless you are familiar with the route or GPS, you run the risk of damaging your rental car and getting lost. The alternative is to go through one of Qatar's many licensed tour companies, which can arrange a trip. Additionally, there are a handful of sights outside of Doha which can only be accessed with prior government permission, which a tour company can arrange on your behalf. This will cost you several hundred Qatari riyals, and may require a minimum of four persons to join in the fun. At international hotels, the receptionists can advise you, and hire a driver for you. Otherwise, there are several tour companies that can arrange a trip by phone or via their website.

Beyond sand dune trips, several of these companies can arrange for overnight desert camping, excursions to historical sites, and city tours.

Other cities
Doha is by far the biggest city in Qatar, but the country's other towns can provide an interesting glimpse of Qatari life outside of the bustle of Doha.

Head west to see the camel races, and then visit the Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim Al Thani Museum in Al Shahaniyah. Drive south to visit the dhow harbor in Al Wakrah, and then hit the beach and go dune bashing near Mesaieed. Or drive north to see the fortress and prehistoric gravemounds near Umm Salal Muhammad, and continue on to kayak through the mangrove forests near Al Khor.